mucrewbtp

I actually have a project in the works to try and use a high power UV light source to age dials and stuff. I've obtained a deuterium lamp which is kind of like a wide beam UV laser. I just have to figure out how to build the power supply i need to run it.

That's just the movement holder, it was probably bent to better clamp in the movement. You should be able to get some of those from any watch supply house like Jules -Borel .

If I were you I would post a want ad in the member sales section and just keep bumping it so it stays near the top

Thanks for the replies. I think I have found an o-ring type gasket that will work. If all else fails I will use a flat gasket. I was trying to get the crown assembly as close to gen as possible. I remember reading that on a triplock crown the crown actually bottoms out on the tube and that the seal is compressed inside the rim of the tube. I should be installing the crown tomorrow so we'll see what happens. -Mike

Dont even think about selling it. When you get a rep and start seeing all the little things that are wrong with it you will definately regret it. The moon watch is a classic.

Here is a 5517 that I just finished doing a little bit of work on. Its not as high end as TMG's 5517 bit I am pretty happy with the way it turned out. -Mike

ETA 2893-2

Some more information: I used a crystal press with an appropriately sized deep aluminum die to press on the retaining ring. It is strange because the crack developed over time, not immediately after installation. I am thinking perhaps it may have been a defect in the crystal that caused the plastic to be too brittle. I have replaced the crystal for now with a much cheaper helfands flat T39 to see if the crack develops again before I install another expensive superdome. Thanks, Mike

Hello, I have been doing some searching and I havent been able to find any specific information on a problem I am having. Has any of the modders had any problems with a Clark crystal? I installed a Clark T39 on my mbw 1665, and recently I noticed a crack had developed all around the crystal at the top of the metal rehaut ring that it is fitted over. Has anyone else experienced this problem before, or has anyone had to do anything to prevent this? Thanks for your help, -Mike

I've wanted one of these for a long time, I would definately buy one.

Whats wrong with it?, it sure looks gen to me.

Anyone? I know lots of these crowns have been installed.

Haha, thanks, I was just going to post that picture. I knew the one in the crown was bigger. I need that thick bastard on the far right closest to the crown. -Mike

I could really use the help of some of the modders here. I am installing a Gen 703 triplock crown and I'm using a Clark case tube. the tube came with 4 seals which I can figure out where to put. However I cannot figure out which type of gasket to use in the crown. I have read elsewhere that the same o-ring that goes inside the tube also goes in the crown. I tried this but the o-ring just seems to tighten against the grooves on the end of the tube. This seems to tear up the seal and I don't think it will seal well. Can anyone with experience please tell me what type of seal is used in a gen 703 triplock crown and where I can find one. I would greatly appreciate this information. Thank You, Mike

I'd buy one in a second

I may have one, pm me if you still need it. -Mike

If you would like to pressure test your own watches, here is a link to my post on repgeek where I explain how you can make your own Bergeon style pressure tester for about 30 bucks. http://www.repgeek.com/showthread.php?t=16...pressure+tester

Does anybody know what type of gasket or seal goes in the back of the crown on a gen 703 triplock crown. I bought a crown and tube but i do not have the correct seal for the crown. I have looked all over online and connot find the correct seal. Does anybody who has used a gen crown know what seals I should use for the tube and crown, and where I could order them? Thank You, Mike

Thanks for all of the help, so it seems like my best bet would be to go for Andrew's 1655?

Anybody? Please help

I am in the market for a 1655 rep to compliment my MBW DRSD. I really like the ability to put a Gen crystal on my MBW, it looks great and offers good water resistence as confirmed by my DIY pressure tester. Does anybody know if any of the 1655 Exp II reps have the ability to acccept a gen crystal? I have looked at the models available from Trevor and Andrew, both seem similar with an acrylic crystal but I have not been able to find out if the crystal on the rep is a Gen type, or a crystal specific just to that rep. Any help on this topic would be greatly appreciated. Thank You, Mike

This has also been up for some time at RepGeek, if you want to see the discussion from the original thread it can be found here: http://www.repgeek.com/showthread.php?t=16317 -Mike

DISCLAIMER: I am posting this procedure as an explanation of how I created my own tester. This device operates under high pressures and can be dangerous if manufactured or used improperly. Always wear eye protection while using any pressurized device. I am in no way responsible for any damage or injury that may result from the construction or use of any device not created by myself. Ok, now that that is over with on to the tutorial, sorry for the crappy pictures. The shopping list: One wide mouth Nalgene bottle: $15 in college bookstore, $9 here: http://www.nalgene-outdoor.com/store/detail.aspx?ID=53 Be sure you get an actual Nalgene brand, Made in the USA bottle. These are made out of a shatter proof polycarbonate that will withstand the required pressure. It also has a lid design that does not require any additional seals. One bicycle inner tube: $3.95 Cut a three inch circle out of the inner tube with the valve directly in the center. After trimming the valve wash the rubber thoroughly. As it comes the rubber has a coating on it that will keep the adhesive from sticking. One foot operated bicycle pump with gauge: $10 Be sure that the pump has the type of filler attachment that locks on to the valve stem. An integrated gauge is also very helpful. The Procedure: 1.) Drill a 5/16" hole through the center of the lid. The lid already has a dimple in the top center which makes it very easy to properly locate the hole. 2.) Using a silicone adhesive sealant (Not my favorite but it seals well and dries fairly quickly) glue the valve to the inside of the lid. The rubber circle has to stay inside the ring that sticks out from the lid to seal it to the canister. Its hard to see on the picture but is obvious when you have the lid. As a helpful tip, i used the top of an aerosol can to apply even pressure to the rubber valve while the adhesive was drying. If you can't find one the right size, the top to a small can of RemOil gun lubricant is the perfect size to fit within the lip on the lid and hold the valve in place. The finished lid should look like this when it is done curing. Now for the testing procedure: 1.) Fill the bottle with about 400 CC of water. 2.) Select your test subject, in this case an MBW DRSD 3.) Attach a length of scotch tape through one of the spring bars, this is how you will hang the watch in the canister. 4.) Tape the watch so it hangs in about the middle of the canister, above the level of the water. Tape the watch to the mouth of the canister, this way it will be easier to retrieve. Keep the tape slightly below the very top of the mouth because the lid seals to the inside top surface. 5.) Next tightly close the lid on the canister, then attach the pump to the valve stem. Hold the stem while you put the pump on. Too much downward pressure can cause the valve to come loose. 6.) Pump up the canister while listening for leaks. As the pressure increases the lid will become slightly domed. As this slightly changes the shape of the sealing surface, it is necessary to tweak the lid tighter a few times while increasing the pressure. A very minor tightening will quickly re-seal the lid. I pressurized this test to 85 PSI, which is about 5.8 ATM. 7.) Allow the watch to sit pressurized for a few minutes in order for it to equalize, if it is going to. Keep an eye on the pressure, it may need a pump or two to maintain pressure depending on how well everything is sealed up. In this test, the canister held 85 PSI for five minutes while i left to run an errand. 8.) After waiting, remove the pump connector from the valve. Then use the end of a ballpoint pen, the kind with a retractable tip, with tip retracted to slowly release pressure. While releasing pressure tip the canister on its side so the watch is submerged. Continue to slowly release the pressure in the canister. The idea is to watch for a steady stream of bubbles that would indicate a leak. In this picture I had a small bubble come from under the bezel, keep in mind that almost six times as much air that is normally under the bezel is now inside that space. As this air expands it will show up as bubbles, this does not indicate a leak. A leak will be an obvious steady stream, imagine 5 times the air volume of the inside of the watch case escaping. If you have a leak, you will know it. 9.) As the air in the canister is almost released tip the canister back up while still de-pressurizing until no pressure remains. Do not release all of the pressure with the watch still submerged, if you have a leak, this will allow water in. Thats all there is to it, this watch passed as you can see by the picture of the test. The watch has been upgraded with a Clark superdome, and all seals have been checked and greased. A gen crown and tube are in the works as soon as I can locate the proper tap for the case hole. As a side note, if anyone has a tap to lend, I would greatly appreciate it. If anyone has any questions about the construction, or testing procedure feel free to PM me. I hope this has been helpful, -Mike

You were right, the insert I got from wholesaleoutlet was absolute crap. It was definately a bait and switch operation. The insert did not look anything like the one he had pictured. The pearl came out just from trying to clean it with some rodico. I returned his crap and he did not want to issue a refund, would not even respond to emails. Had to file a paypal dispute. Then the guy has the nerve to leave me bad feedback, even though I paid immediately and communicated with him consistantly. This guy is a complete [censored] and nobody should do business with him. -Mike

Thanks for all of the opinions, I wish I could find somewhere to get the watch pressure tested. Is there any sort of chain type watch store that commonly has pressure testing equipment? I haven't been able to find any real watchmakers in my area. Thanks, Mike