stilty

you should be able to fit a 3135 in a 3035, but don't hold me to it. 3035 is thicker on the dial side, so the thinner 3135 should drop in no problem. Stem position should be fine, but you will have a gap between the dial and rehaut of about 0.35mm.

Well Done!

You even had to ask?

Seems high. But the Sellita movement is a quality movement.

No real trick. Just the same as installing any other overlay. it is just that with the extra space between the movement and dial, you can use a genuine disc as an overlay.

Check out this post I wrote a few years ago. (unfortunately, I never did get around to Pt II.

Yes, for the 3035 case, 2836-2 if fine, but I tend to use 2824-2 in the 3035 cases. For the same reasons as stated above. I can use a genuine date disc as an overlay.

I wanted to ask you Stilty about the choice for the 2892 movement. How did you use the Gen date wheel on there? how was the stem height/angle say compared to a 2824?

Thanks for sharing.

E

2892-A2 is my "go-to" movement for any 3135 case. Especially since I prefer to use genuine date discs as overlays. I have my own movement holders that take care of stem alignment, securing the movement in the case, as well as offering a seat to glue the dial to.

As for stem position in the 2892-A2, center stem to dial seat on the 2892-A2 is 1.50mm. On the Rolex 3135, the stem position from center stem to dial seat is 1.75. So basically you have 0.25mm of extra space between the 2892-A2 and back of dial when fit in a 3135 case. The genuine date disc is 0.20mm thick, so you can easily glue one to the ETA date disc and have no problems with date operation. My movement holder is made to provide the gap between the 2892-A2 and back of dial.

The ETA 2824-2 stem position is 1.80mm from center stem to dial seat, so when fitting in a Rolex 3135 case, the stem will be 0.05mm out of perfect alignment with the case tube. This makes it tricky to fit an overlay as well. I have used 2824-2 in 3135 cases, I usually sand the back of the dial (if feet are clipped) in order to perfectly align the stem.

every ETA I've owned or worked on has the same characteristic... and I have non-rep timepieces with ETA movements, and all the rotors make noise. You can't get away from it. Unless you do something stupid like load it up with grease!

So 997, any chance you can shoot a quick vid of the noise so we can evaluate? If there is an abnormal noise, it can be addressed, but if you are just talking about normal rotor noise, you may just have to live with it.

live with it. it is an ETA characteristic.

You can always have someone like PBDad or Zig relume it to match. E

Zig has done some great work for me in the past.

thanks guys. yeah, i did see the yellow lume version. don't like the colour, but I ordered it anyway. We'll see how it looks when it arrives and I may have to have it changed to white.

I normally like to use genuine parts as much as possible, but for a quick budget project, I'd rather keep the $500 in my jeans then spend it on a genuine dial.

Just curious as to who offers the best aftermarket 16800 matte dial? I see a white markers on Yuki's site, but it shows on back order.

Thanks!

2824 will work, but will not have perfect alignment. If you want perfect stem alignment, you will need to use a 2892.

Tropic 38 ... I'd give Ken's left nut for one. Been looking for years.

For the tropic. Not Ken's left nut.

Big regret not grabbing one when they were hovering around $100-$150. I didn't have a use for one. Now, if, and a BIG if, you can find one. Nothing south of $350, and that was about 2 years ago when I was quoted that price.

I find it annoying when sellers delete the photos at close of auction.

I have never seen a genuine date disc with unpainted teeth. I would say the one on the right is your genuine article.

I use this to remove bezels.

Here are a few more pics that I took today... again, just resized and cropped pics from my phone.

as requested, here is a face shot. (is this what you were looking for?) I can tell you the dial cutout in the case is for a gen dial.

here is a profile shot of the other side

And funny enough, I do have a spare 93150! Who knew? Here is the fit between the lugs.

Here is the fit from the back:

I love lug holes.

These cases are available from Star Time Supply in Texas. I see they now have a 16800 case for sale! They also sell some solid gold cases as well.

These are replacement aftermarket cases, no stamping or branding anywhere. And yes, they are made to fit genuine rolex movements. (or ETA's with the proper movement holder)

And the case accepts genuine rolex parts.

http://store.startimesupply.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=1&Category_Code=1_07_1D_Rolex_Case

I read somewhere, maybe here... and maybe it was zig.

but a dial was relumed with tritium. the tritiium was sourced from an old sign, or something like that, and then mixed up in paint and used to restore the dial. Only a small amount of tritium was scraped off then mixed up into paint.

just a thought, but what about trying to source your parts from BK or George? Weren't they on a mission to release the 1:1 SD a while back? I know I still have a couple deposits tied up somewhere.

Perhaps they may have some prototype parts you could try and use.

I read a bit about others who have purchased the star time replacement 16610 case.

I bought one a while ago. Fairly inexpensive. $160 if I remember correctly. You get a discount if you order online as opposed to calling in an order.

I threw on a gen bezel assembly and clarks crystal. also used a gen dial, gen date disc powered by an ETA 2892-A2. I used my ETA 2982-A2 to 3135 movement holder. Everything fits perfectly. Case is sterile, so no markings, but that doesn't mean anything to me.

Here are some quick n dirty pics that I took with my phone. I only cropped and resized them.

Here is a face shot showing the rehaut.

crown position and guards

Here is a lug hole shot

Here is a side shot

sterile between the lugs

some shots of the back

I fit a 78360 w/ 580 hoods, and they fit perfectly. I don't have a spare 93150, otherwise I would have installed one and took some pics. But what I really like, is how perfect the lug holes are. Bracelet snapped in no problem. Unlike other cases like Phong, Yuki, etc, I have always found fitting a bracelet a chore. This case is perfect in that regard.

Definitely not a keeper. Lugs look a bit chunky to me. Eventually, I'll probably just use this for a sterile watch. I have a cool MKII dial, that I bought, when he was still selling parts. I'll probably just install it on a 2824-2 with black date disc, install an aftermarket bezel, or maybe find a nice fixed bezel. Remove the cyclops, or maybe install an acrylic crystal. I have a sterile crown as well that I will use.

As for your date disc, I still have one in white and a few in champagne.

see this old post for more details:

I'm not sure with that series, but I know with some of the earlier 600 series tubes, they need to be broached after installation in order to fit the crown.

Any experts here care to shed any light?

I think a few experts have shed some light. And if you ask me, I'd say it is not the genuine article. For starters, who would remove a perfectly fine crystal from their new watch and put it in some obviously fake packaging? Seriously. Any genuine parts I get are not packaged that way. New are sealed in Rolex packaging, and used are usually in a plain plastic wrapper.

And now you have a few left over???? Really?????

And besides it being quite difficult, as everyone has already said, machining cases of a "Registered Design" is counterfeiting. That's a much stiffer penalty, and likely in more than one country, than 'trafficking' or buying counterfeits. Remember we push the line here now.

We'll, I'd almost say the opposite. It is the Orig. Rolex Design, you would have a problem with. I'm pretty sure the patents for the Registered Design cases are now expired.