dachshund

V I'm sure one of us could help if need be, but can't you simply order via the internet for delivery to UK.

Please forgive me if I seem to come on negative about this, I fully agree some standard of imformation should be agreed upon, if for no other reason, it makes comparing goods of one vender to another much easier, but the real jest of the matter is accurate imformation, regardless of what format it is in. A FAQ section is just a copout and a way to continue to use hype in advertising, yet be able to claim no fault as you should have read the fine print. Straight and to the point, I personally don't care, and can't see why other members would care, if it is a lot of trouble for the dealers to relist the correct imformation, they are the one's that screwed it up to begin with, not the members. That said, I have no objection in giving the dealers a reasonable timeframe to make the necessary changes, as stated earlier, change the most popular models immediately, and follow up with the other models in a timely manner. If these changes are not made throughout the dealers listing we have solved nothing, confusinion still exists on the older or less popular models, hence we still have more of the same, just a different buyer or a different watch this time. I know it is a lot of trouble to make all of the necessary changes, but the dealers need to understand that however honest the are, at best it certainly casts a shadow when it appears to the members that inaccurate imformation has been intentially provided. Simply and ACCURATLEY tell us up front what the watch is, accurate case material, accurate movement description, accurate crystal material, accurate etc, accurate etc, etc in whatever format you choose, and all of a sudden problems will no longer exist.

Falco-2 watches Marrickvilleboy sportsterRider rek001 thl j-auz (eta preferred) fxrandy (eta preferred and ivory lume, dont try to vintagise it at the factory) pugwash (cheapo version) Ubiquitous rbj96-1 or 2 watches yt74-Questionable? rollypolly bmwrolex watchdude (eta preferred) paneraifreak John Paul olreon r11co-Questionable? chrgod klingsor-4 or more watches! alt.watch.obsess-Questionable? robertk riverwindMDS have blue tmg doubletap (good one only) piratedzeus (less expensive version-questionable?) longshot section8 frank2001 waterpruf-Questionable? justasgood jkpadget2 bremerk2 ylltrb masticore joelmassee ajminia DaveR Jimster paragonrep-1 maybe more jetsons (eta a plus, ivory colored lume, not the yellow stuff) manuel rower ciso1969 Indyclmbr (1, maybe 2 depending on movement, cost, etc.) Stephane Masticore (eta a plus, ivory colored lume, not the yellow stuff) Nanuq (Sorry I didn't get you on the list the first time.) Dieselpower Watchman3 docblackrock JKTOWN Dachshund (2)

Can't use the balance out of the CN movement for 6497/1 Swiss, even if the would physically fit, they run at different beats, you would have to change the gearing inside the watch to make it run properly.

Sandpaper works fine, you just need to make sure the sandpaper is laying on a flat surface and move the crownguard across it while keeping it properly aligned with the original profile of the bottom of the crown guard. Be careful with how much material you take off of the bottom of the crown guard, the way the hole is countersunk, if your not careful you can wind up with nothing but the case for the bottom of the head of the screw to rest on.

If you have the 28800 7750 the subdial hands won't interchange with the Swiss 7750, if you have the older Asian 7750, you're good to go.

Canuck88 If you have the old stem, thats a good place to start, if not a bit more difficult. Screw the crown onto the stem and insert into movement, set the stem/crown to the natural position (all the way in). Measure the gap that is below or between the crown and the case, remove the stem/crown from the movement and cut the measured amout off of the stem (be sure to leave at least 1 mm long so that you can sneak up on the correct fit) You can cut the stem with almost any wire cutting instrument or it can be cut by filing through stem, you're going to need a file to smooth the end of the stem where the crown screws on anyway. If you cut the stem with a pair of pliers be sure to cut longer than need as the thread will be destored where you made the cut.

The blue on steel was made as stated in the prior posts in a limited number for the Asian market, how ever the dial was completely different than the one pictured on Perfect Clone. The dial has indices for hour markers the are like no other Rolex I've ever seen, the metal part was the bulk of the indice with a very small lume dot in the center, once you seen it you instantly know that the traditional marker is nothing like the one in the blue model. I did have a link to a picture of it, if I can find the link, I'll post a picture so everyone can see the difference. That said, its still a beautiful watch, if you like it, buy it, fooling people is not what its about, at least not for me, I just enjoy each watch for what it is. Edited to show link http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?act=At...post&id=655

I have both the Chocolate and the Calf Tan, very soft and comfortable and extremely nice looking straps. Give'en a try, I'm betting you'll love'em.

Recieved my IWC Ingenieur yesterday (11/10/2006) from Jay, exact same problem, bracelet broken in the same place. From early reports, looks like this is going to be a MAJOR PROBLEM for the Ingenieur. Just hope the dealers have a way to sort all this out, its way too nice a rep to go sour over an issue like this.

nguyendd I could be wrong, but it looks like the dial and the outter ring are two different pieces, if you have a way of opening the back, simply loosen the case clamps and you should be able to slide the dial slightly clockwise, if you notice the date window does not line up with the crown anyway. That should be all it takes to line the hour indices with the numbers. Give it a try, really simple.

The Zigmeister As usual, well thought out and well said, thanks. I signed on at TRC in August of 03 and although we have come a long way in some areas, other reps seem to be no better than they were a few years ago, in fact I don't know if we will ever see a better rep of the 007 than appeared in late 03 or early 04. I'm fortunate enough to have won the TRC lottery for this watch right after it came out, still have it and would not part with it not only because it is still considered one of the best reps ever made but also because winning the TRC lottery. I also have the black Seamaster Pro that is well reguarded as reps go, from the old factory that was supposed to have been closed down. Even the older Rollies, especially the Datejust and the Sub were of good quality during that period, if you bothered to get the top of the line at the time. I have one of the older black Subs that I have modded myself and the only people that can pick it apart are the members of this community and other true WIS. I do think The Zigmeister is right, we are in the GOLDEN AGE OF REPS, but I personally think it started a little ahead of where he originally thought it was. I'm fortunate enough to own some really nice reps, and I own some others that are supposedly out dated, for instance one of the first Pam 111 from Eddie with the foil and wrong bridges, it still looks incredible from the front, short of top quality lume, and I put a solid back on it so now its a 001?,know what, its still a damn nice watch that I enjoy to this day. I'm not taking issue with Rob, I very muchly respect his opinion, I quess what I'm trying to say is that although some of our newest reps are quite accurate, the reps of a year or so back still offer a very good representation of the geniune and they themselves are a part of this GOLDEN AGE OF REPS, in fact some are or will be true collectors items. Yes unfortunaly, I have to agree, that in time (who knows how long), that thur a lack of supply of ETA movements and possible government pressure, that our reps will regress to lesser quality reps.

Richard Tracy Jay replied, payment has bee sent to Jay, so all is well in rep land. Jay also promised to send a second item if first did not make it thru. Have never purchased from Jay before, that will prob change. As for Eddie, he told me that 8 of his last 9 that had been shipped to Texas had been taken by customs, don't blame Eddie for his decision not to ship to Texas, but if he doesn't find an inovative method of shipping it will wind up costing him a lot of business from the community.

Richard I have emailed Jay at the e-address you suggested, will advise if there is any further problems where you can take proper action. Thanks Jim

If someone wants to take my place on the group purchase there is a spot open, I made payment to Eddie and he did not want to ship to Texas and I don't want to go to the hassle of shipping to someone else then forwarding. Hope someone takes advantage, its a super nice watch.

Keep looking! There is no other way to secure the lever other than a post, it has to be there.

Devedander Paul a WoMart has a pre 2000 daytona, his # W-1302, listed with his daytonas. I know it is not the watch that you are looking for, wrong color dial and not tt, but it does show the proper face for a pre 2000 daytona, the thin markers, it is Swiss and has the running seconds at 9:00 as a pre 2000 should. I'm not saying that the watch is perfect, but aside from the wrong subdial spacing, it is much closer than anything else I know of besides the El Primero Daytonas, which are in the $2000.00 and up range and the DW daytonas.

Richard if its not too late to get on the list, you are more than welcome to add me to Jay's list.

Hands should not be a big problem, I know Davidsen had replacement hands at one time for both the 2836 and the 2893 version. If I remmember correctly they were about $40.00 per set?

The Zigmeister I'm not questioning wheather mixing with a metal rod will cause the lume to turn black, I've read that in other places as well, but if you can't mix the lume with a metal rod, how in the hell can you apply it with a metal oiler without turning the lume black.

lionsandtigers The Zigmeister's advise about a drift will probably work, but if it is lodged to tightly, about the only other way I could think of to get it out is with a diamond tipped burr on a dremel, but don't try that by hand alone, you'll need some type of vice that won't marr your case and a drillpress accesory for the dremel. If you don't have the necessary equipment already, it may be cheaper to just take it by a machine shop and have them remove it for you.

Thanks, greatly appreciated!!!!

chieftang Looks gen to me, check the glow, I've seen some pretty good rep inserts, but I've never seen one that glows like the gen.

I'm almost positive the genuine tube will not fit without modification to the case. I think the gen tube is threaded on the inside, not outside like the rep. I have heard of someone fitting the gen, but I am sure that I remember he said that he had to drill the rep case to make it fit.

As stated, move the adjuster with the two dots on it, not the one that the single attachment. To slow the timing, move the two dot lever closer to the single dot lever. To speed up the timing, move the two dot lever farther away from the single dot lever. Very little movement goes a long way, move very little at a time and recheck results.