14060 or 16610?

Without seeing the watch in person, it sounds like the datewheel is just plain loose. If it uses an overlay, the overlay may not be glued down properly. Either that, or the calendaring mechanism may be loose somewhere (loose screw perhaps).

Sometimes this is caused by a short stem, but sometimes the keyless are just lacking lube and do not slide properly.

Neither Loctite nor adhesive required, and actually don't belong inside the watch case. They can flake and cause problems. Press fit is the proper method of installation.

Here's an excellent thread on this topic: http://www.replica-watch.info/vb/showthread.php/why-are-guys-paying-100-54509.html

It's difficult to tell with these pics. Some closer and sharper pics of the area around the balance would help, particularly the ETA engraving. With the limited view provided, this appears to be a gen ETA movement.

Autowinding parts hopefully just dislodged and jammed rather than broken. Might just need to be disassembled, realigned, and tightened back up.

Thanks for the comments. Yup, hands relume is on the list somewhere down the road. But doesn't bother me right now. The dial color is actually called "silver" though it does appear white in some stock Breitling photos. On the website it appears whitish.

How about my franken? Double-sided AR Gen dial Lello DW Gen black calf with tang buckle Gen ETA in the works (A7750 with Breitling rotor for now)

I will only work on Rolex for friends or family. And I make it clear to them that if parts are needed they will either cost an arm and a leg or I can use aftermarket parts. It is getting harder and harder to source Rolex parts, not even my posts at TZ get answered much anymore. When I can find parts, the prices are astronomical. I think Rolex is just about the worst example of corporate bullying today. Makes MicroSoft look like child's play.

I started this thread over at RWI: http://www.replica-watch.info/vb/showthread.php/rep-jewels-54442.html I don't frequent this forum, so wasn't sure if this belongs in general discussion or in repair (apologies to the mods in advance). Has anyone else seen this firsthand? I tried to PM The Zigmeister but was unsuccessful.

Just replace with another A7750. If serviced, it will be just as reliabel as the ETA 7750.

Even without the autowind parts, teeth on the ratchet wheel can break if you wind too quickly. Just wind slowly and you should be fine.

Can you provide more info? Maybe some of the folks here can help walk you through it. Does it run if you hand wind it?

Yes absolutely it fits. Possibly Crosswind.

Look at that date, how centered it is in the window. Usually the numbers are to the left of the window and really "hug" the left border. Looks like someone has pushed the dial as far left as possible (see lume dots). I try to do this whenever I service a Rolex.

See post #18 in this thread: http://www.replica-watch.info/vb/showthread.php/what-does-a7750-look-like-52351p2.html

Yes, there is no comparison obviously between the Swiss and Asian parts. But the fact that the piece was installed upside down completely baffles me. I hadn't seen one like that yet.

The movement needs service, including adjustment and regulation. Activating the chrono puts more pieces into motion, creating slightly more drag; that's why it slows down considerably when the chrono is activated.

Cool, now that's how you regulate!

I've been known to dabble. ;-)

Stem release on the A7750 does indeed require much more force than the standard ETA movements. It is possible that the ratchet and winding gears have become misaligned in their recesses; the winding gear can in fact fall backwards towards the dial side of the movement. Not much, but enough that the hole is no longer aligned. Once that happens, if you keep trying, you will jam the gear into place and the only solution is to take it all apart and realign it.

If you are positive the hand(s) is/are not making contact with anything, then it's possible there is dirt or a fiber in the movement, possibly in the teeth of the seconds wheel. It will cause jamming in the same spot every time.

Remove the autowinding mechanism. You will then be able to remove the rotor.