14060 or 16610?

This wasn't intended to be a debate about timing machines, but I'll bite. Especially since your statement that with the cheap machine someone will "get correct answers every time [sic]" seems to imply that someone using the setup in my tutorial will not. Back when I started out, I could not afford $800 for a timing machine. Without one, I could not take my hobby to the next level. There was no cheap $200 Chinese timing machine. Now that they exist, many are leery of the quality. Though I've never owned one, I know folks who do, and they are not happy with theirs. They experience free

Not sure about Kello. I've seen the video demo for iOS, it doesn't look as robust as the free software I have linked. Also the App Store reviews are mixed, with some really slamming it. I havent been curious enough to try it. Maybe the Mac version is different? In response to some who have asked, I have never owned a vibrograph or other watch timing machine. This has been my setup all along. Prior to this, I did things the old fashioned way, regulating over several days and estimating adjustment based on impulse jewel position.

Unfortunately I cannot use a microscope, it feels like my hands are disconnected. I cannot even use a loupe too well, though I will sometimes use it for some precise procedures like oiling or staking. I am very nearsighted and use my naked eye for 95% of everything.

Werd.

+1000 Though not as exciting, working on a gen is just as satisfying, without all the drama. The pieces literally fall into place during assembly, no forcing. Spare parts are fairly easy to come by. Their owners are not afraid to spend for a new mainspring or other part. You save them hundreds of dollars, so they love you (especially compared to RSC $800+). It actually takes me much longer to service a rep A7750 than an ETA 7750 (can you say shock springs?). Some parts have to be pried apart, then forced back together. Need a spare transfer gear? Sorry - if there are spares out

Funny, I do not frequent this forum or RG, usually just RWI. I was out of commission for a while due to some health reasons. I only announced my return about a month ago. And yes, I am still working on A7750s, though I do more gen activity from local sources these days.

Just noticed this now. Sad. The Zigmeister sent me my first Asian clone 7750 and the ETA instructions on a CD many years ago. I still have them in a box somewhere. This was back when all I knew was the boring world of gen watches. If you work on one 3135, you've worked on them all. The rep world, to me, was like the wild West. People were modding their cases, swapping movements, using datewheel overlays. I found it fascinating, exciting, challenging! The watchmaking community in general will lose a very skilled master.

Here is my entry: http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/155942-diy-build-your-own-movement-analyzer-timing-machine-for-under-30/ I also posted in the link above; it's under General Discussion. Did I not post in the right place? Because I don't see any of the other entries...

Reposting from my tutorial on RWI: http://www.replica-watch.info/vb/showthread.php/diy-build-your-132201.html Here it is, a CHEAP analyzer you can build yourself. If you already have a PC running windows you are 90 percent of the way there. All you need is another $35 or so worth of parts, possibly less if you already have some of it laying around. This tutorial will cover 3 basic steps: Building a pickup. Amplifying and fine tuning an electrical signal. Basic use of sound capture and analyzer software. You’ll notice all 3 of these are probably

Rotor gearing is always connected to the mainspring regardless of position or presence of the crown or winding stem. If you rotate the rotor clockwise, the mainspring will continue to be wound.

Repost from RWI: http://www.replica-watch.info/vb/showthread.php/gen-eta-into-hbb-77336.html New gen ETA 7750 Tissot movement New (taller) crystal Rotor modded with ETA bearing H Engraved bridge (not sticker) Black DW too tall, used white ETA DW Waterproofed

+1. I agree, except I say generally every 3 to 5 years. That's about how long it takes a tiny droplet of oil to dry up.

One more vote for small screwdriver.

Thanks for the props everyone. I can really get into this stuff when time permits. Here are some measurements, for those of you wondering about A7750 swapability (did I just invent a word?): 30.39 diameter 07.42 thickness (excludes rotor and post protrusion) 00.19 all 3 subdial posts 02.00 hour cannon 01.20 minute cannon 00.20 center chrono post Hope this info is useful. As The Zigmeister pointed out in his excellent review, the datewheel alignment with the dial is going to be an issue if you plan on swapping one of these in place of an existing A7750.

Actually there is no jewel, but that's not a bad thing. It's not needed here. The date advancing gear sits on a post that protrudes from the calendaring plate. The problem here is that the parts do not mate properly. The wheel can move around laterally and wobble far more than it should. As a result, it binds and jams, and won't advance the date as it should. I am guessing that the poor tolerances affect just this particular movement. But I honestly have not seen enough of them to know for sure. I do know the watch was new and the quickset function was already jammed when it was sent