14060 or 16610?

I got the watch from another member on one of the other boards, I believe he got it from perfect clones (Joshua?). I recall logging into the website and seeing the picture of the watch there.

OK, sorry I didn't get back to you right away. I tried it a couple nights ago, and a gen bezel WILL NOT FIT. At least not the case I have on hand. The rep case was just a hair bigger. I tried 4 genuine bezels and couldn't get it to go.

Hey TeeJay, would you be willing to part with your SS bracelet?

Ouch - so it sounds like you may have ruined your strap by cutting those guide pins! Too bad... I would be curious to see if a strap without guide pins fits snugly on my watch with the extra set of springbar holes, but I don't want to just throw money away...

Yes, I had no idea it would be this complicated. The watch was purchased on one of the other boards, I guess I just jumped too quick when I bought it. First I discovered the orange molded strap doesn't exist in real life, now I find that I may not be able to swap the strap to black due to the multiple variations out there. I have no idea which dealer it came from, as I bought it in the member trade area. As I mentioned in another thread, I would even be happy with a good used SS bracelet as long as it doesn't have any clasp issues. I just can't bring myself to wear it with the fantasy orange strap!

Forgive my barrage of questions - I am a PO newbie and am learning a lot here. I now know the rep black straps are actually SMP straps and not correct PO straps. Did yours not fit properly due to the lack of a second set of springbar holes? Are you saying that, since my watch does have 2 sets of springbar holes, the black SMP strap may fit? Also, if the second set of holes allows the strap to be mounted closer to the watch head, is the guide pin still necessary, or will the end fit in snugly due to the extra set of springbar holes?

OK, so if I understand correctly, all those 42mm POs out there on black rubber are actually mounted on a rep SMP strap? That's close enough for me, as long as it fits. Does the black strap have the guide pins in the ends like the orange one? I can't tell from your pics.

What do you mean by "it only fits certain 42mm... models"? Are you saying there are different 42mm models out there with different dimensions? I thought as long as the strap had the rubber locating pins then it would fit just fine? My 42mm has the locating holes drilled into the case along with 2 sets of springbar holes (for both SS bracelet and rubber strap I presume).

I want to purchase one WITHOUT having to buy a whole watch. For that matter, I will take a SS bracelet. Any suggestions?

OK, my PO on fantasy orange strap arrived, it has two sets of springbar holes, in addition to the pin guide hole drilled in the case. so I assume this means it can accommodate either a strap or a bracelet? Question: If I can't get my hands on a black rep strap, I am considering using just a generic black rubber dive strap on 20mm springbars. But obviously this will reveal the extra set of springbar holes and the pin guide hole - will these be dead giveaways that this is a rep? Or does the gen have the same holes?

I have a 42mm with the dreadful fantasy orange rubber strap (came that way from a member on one of the other boards). I only realized it was fantasy when the watch was already on its way here. Where can I get the correct black rubber PO rep strap without having to buy a whole new watch?

Great pics! Will you be hanging onto the SS bracelet? If you're interested in parting, let me know... As for the black rubber strap you installed, does it have the locating pin?

Yes, that is extremely helpful. My dilemma: I have a PO on the way with one of those fantasy orange molded rubber strap - looks like the black one, with all the markings, etc. however it is molded orange rubber. Unless I'm missing something, I believe this is a fantasy strap which does not exist in gen world. So I want to switch to either a black rubber strap, or better yet a SS bracelet. I understand what you are saying, that it is easier to swap to SS bracelet, however I have read some threads that seem to indicate the springbar holes are in different positions on the rubber and SS versions.

OK, I am a PO noob here. So am I to understand correctly that the rep rubber strap has a locating pin whereas the gen strap does not? Does that mean that the rep PO case has a hole drilled in it? If one were to buy a rep PO with a rubber strap already mounted, can he add a rep bracelet later?

Thanks for the input - that's what I thought - so the molded orange strap really [bold]IS[/bold] fantasy? Can anyone else confirm this? So then why do the dealers even sell them?

I have been searching and searching the net. The only orange rubber PO strap I can find a gen picture of is the flatter stitched type - I can't find a pic of the molded type. Can anyone comment on 1) is this fantasy or does it really exist; and 2) how close is the rep in terms of feel, markings, and most importantly shade of orange? I'm looking to purchase one but don't want fantasy...

Lady DJ is a different story - it is very close to the gen. I have a gen DJ and a rep DJ and I assure you the dimensions of the rep are completely different. The dial of the rep will not even clear the caseback hole of the gen, as it is just a hair bit too large. It could probably fit with some shaving, but that tells me the crystal is totally different too. Actually, I have quite a few gen bezels lying here, and I will try popping one onto the rep case and will report back - but I think I already know the answer.

This is correct, in fact the datewheels are interchangeable. However, the 2836 datewheel is a little different in that it has a lip and is a bit thicker. You'd have to see them side by side to understand. Adding a 2836 datewheel to a 2824 will create some thickness.

Though it's not a whole lot thicker than the 2824, he 2836 has the stem position further from the dial, which as posted earlier could cause alignment issues. For example, in a genuine DJ case, the 2836 won't work because the stem won't line up (too far from the dial), but thte 2824 fits perfectly.

Regarding the part about the overlay being metal, I am talking about a standard overlay, not the recent vintage version which, as stated above, is not printed on metal.

How can a rotor "keep" falling off if it is screwed in properly? Saying it "keeps" falling off implies that it has already been replaced at least once. As mentioned above, the rotor is held in by one screw - just tighten the screw properly and/or use a tiny bit of blue Loctite. If it is a press-fit rotor, then it's not a 2836-2.

Also, you can remove an existing overlay with no problem - they are made of metal and are just lightly glued. Just use a very sharp razor blade working around very gradually, and you will have no problems removing it. Very easy. If you have a junk sub or other Rollie rep lying around, you can remove the overlay.

Let me chime in here since my project is nearly complete. The overlay goes right on top of the DW, there's no other way to do it. With that said, the teeth of the DW ride under the [censored] of the motion works. This is where you run into problems. Obviously if you just glue the overlay flush, it is going to jam up at the motion works [censored]. What you need is a bit of space, not much, but you definitely need to raise the overlay just a hair above the DW. What I did was use rubber cement. Put a generous bead on both the DW and the overlay, taking care to avoid the toothed area, and let everything dry for a few minutes. When it's all dry, simply stick the two pieces together. The beads on both pieces will create a built-up thickness that is just enough to clear the [censored] on the motion works. The result is that the DW will advance with no problems at all. Mine is very smooth and works like it should. The best part about rubber cement is that it is easily removed if you goof up with alignment or height. I goofed mine up 3 or 4 times and was able to remove the overlay with a razor blade, rub the cement off with my finger, and reapply. I know since the DW is raised it means the dial will have to be raised as well, otherwise things will get hung up on each other. I plan to use either dial dots or micro thin double sided tape to attach the dial if necessary. These can also be layered to create height if needed. Obviously this is a domino effect, and raising the DW along with the dial will now require bending of the hands to clear the stick markers. But I can live with that, at least temporarily until I am able to order new cannon pinion, etc. to raise everything properly. Just my .02 - remember, my DW clicks and advances smoothly!

OK, that makes sense. I guess I'll understand more when my dial and bezel arrive. But from what you're telling me, I'm guessing I will eventually have to dremel my spacer down just a hair bit more to get it to clear that strip. I will wait for the dial so I can lay it on the movement with the spacer and ensure that everything gets smoothed down perfectly round. One more thing - it appears that the 2824-2 stem will be too long to allow the crown to screw down, but I can't be too sure since I'm not positive if my crown is gen. The crown tube is gen and the crown screws into it, and the O-ring seal between the tube fits snugly around the base of the crown, but I'm not sure it's gen. Either way, it looks like I need to cut the stem a millimeter or two. Did you have to do this for yours? How can I be positive that this crown is gen? Also, in case I end up getting another crown some day, how difficult would it be to get a new stem? Thanks again for all the help! Hopefully this project will be done in a week or so.

OK, another question as I'm having trouble lining up my stem. There appears to be a raised strip where the crystal "bottoms out" so to speak - does the dial butt right up against the bottom of the crystal, or is it retained on the other side of the raised strip? My dial hasn't arrived yet, so I'm a little bit confused. Can the dial pass all the way through the case if the crystal is not there to hold it in?