fraggle42

I tried to look at that TDs site yesterday and there was just a database error page, that and the negative comments on his forum over at RG asking is he still trading (or could have been RWI) make me cautious?

Just checked and the website is working now, sadly I don't own a Ferrarri so these specials ain't for me

Looks a rep.

I got a gen clasp and fitted it to my rep strap and had to mill out the links in the strap slightly as the gen clasp is slightly wider where it narrows a little.

V2 updates itself with new data from my site every time you run it.

I keep the TD links upto date, and occasionally add new categories and new information as and when I can.

For example I added a load of micro brand watch makers a little while ago, which I am always window shopping in

As I can update the data and add new categories without you needing to download a new version of the program, it'll be a while before there is a need for a V3.

If you have any dealers or other info (shops, watchsmiths, forums, manufacturers, review sites, anything like that) please do PM me the information and I'll add it!

My SnuffleHausen

Hi all,

Watch cleaning fluids, L&R 566 cleaner and L&R ultrasonic rinse to be precise, is this OK to be left in the cleaners for a few weeks between uses?

When I got my current US cleaner I filled it with boiled water and added some cleaning fluid concentrate as per the instructions, and on the few things I experimented with it worked fine (the boiled water was just to play around with, I didn't intend to clean watch parts in it).

And then the US cleaner was put away with the fluid still in it (with the lid on). I honestly didn't expect bacteria / mould to grow in a cleaning fluid, but it did. Not a lot, but enough to form a skin around the basket at the surface level. The intention wasn't to put it away for weeks, but it was moved to one side, and then moved to the garage, and then moved out of the way and forgotten about, as is life.

Does anyone know if L&R be left in a non air tight container for ages without any ill effects, or does it go mouldy/form a skin/gloop too?

The US cleaner has got a drain valve which I can use when I know it's not going to be used for ages, and I'm planning on using the other little US cleaner I have for the rinse, but it is a pain to drain. I could use a jug instead (easy to pour back into the big L&R container)

Thanks.

friday-breakdown-028-10232014.jpg

I love the way the watch is still working

I just have one question fraggle42. Has Simon ever named his cat? .

Love the cartoons and have a stuffed Simons cat at work

Looking carefully at the dismantled case, holder, spare movement and dial (after AJ helped me by pointing out the case back clamps the holder) I can confirm this should be true, everything measures out so that when the back is tightened it should just clamp the holder, movement and dial.

I would guess that that would mean if the back isn't on tight, it won't be clamping the holder/movement tightly and it could move.

Just had the same thing with an ST25 auto winder, covered in oil.

Dismantled and dabbed the oil off with rodico as I don't have a dryer wash and am worried about using the cleaner after reading what someone said about having to remove jewels first?

Took ages, but clean and back together now.

One Dip is dangerous stuff. It is basically dry cleaning fluid and not good to breathe.

It is for cleaning oil off of hairsprings/balance wheels and not for plates train wheels etc.

 

One Dip is not to be confused with 'Solo Lube' etc that is an additive put in rinse to supposedly lubricate the parts without hand oiling. Not proper procedure imho.

 

I use L&R or Zenith cleaner and rinse. My cleaning machine is an L&R Vari-Matic ultrasonic, it looks like something in the bowels of Captain Nemo's submarine.

There is a video of one in action on You Tube.

Blimey, those Varimatics really spin the parts at high speed.

Are the parts held securely inside the mesh basket? I can't see them just being loose as the way it stops and reverses the direction of spin would cause loose parts to fly around and get damaged?

LOL, not a problem on the other forums (joking!!)

A related question, what it the best stuff to have in the US cleaner? I read on other forums that they have two baths, one to do the cleaning, and another a "post clean" dip that I guess removes the remains of the cleaning fluid and then evaporates very quickly?

Is "one dip" fluid as it says, stuff that can be used in a heated US cleaner that then evaporates when the cleaned parts are removed without need to blowing the parts dry with air?

you need this shirt my friend

 

Number 10 : Ewww! That could go so, so, so wrong for the father!!!

Daughter: "DAD!! WTF are you doing!!!"

Dad: "Err, trying to get your bf pregnant with twins..."

Yep i did i was a Dream for a father

Didnt do anything till i married her or something

Im a angel myself

Hmmm.... I'm saying nuffink!

Now if you had taken that movement and just chucked it in the US cleaner as is, would it come out working? ...

(ok, if it did, it wouldn't be for many months, but)

Tissot Sea-Touch. The dealer very kindly swapped the bright orange strap for a black one FOC, orange watch + orange strap = too orange for me!

I guess you'll be wanting a pocket watch then?

Hand in the trouser pocket, always fiddling with it...

Very nice collection there and I'm digging that Oris TT3!

Kitchen plastic pan cleaner is what I've used upto now.

I found that varying the pressure produces different finishes from very fine grain up to deep medium grain, and it's not that abrasive, so it's a process of "slow and steady" gets there in the end.

I would worry about sandpaper being more abrasive than plastic that if I slipped and got one stroke wrong, it would take quite a bit to correct it, but something very light, one wrong slip and it hardly marks it - but of course it does take a lot longer to get the finish required.

I also found it is VERY advisable to use a brand new kitchen scrapy sponge every job, then you know exactly what it will do when you start using it, and there's no hard, crusty bits of blackened cooked things stuck in it

Very impressive work!

I'm (very slowly) doing it the wrong way by buying the stuff first and then learning things, but I'm terrible at making myself sit down and learn in the evening so end up just having to dive straight in when something needs doing for real

Very nice, if only it didn't have that chunk missing from the bottom of the display.

Maybe the next version.

Are these faces properly working with chronos / calendars / etc?

The only ones with the correct Patek movements are genuine Patek watches, so I think that's not what you meant!

Here's a Skymoon with the back face that is blue:-

http://www.pure-time.com/product/skymoon-perpetual-calender-double-side-ss-white-dial-on-black-leather-strap/

And of COURSE when all you lot where 16 years old you respected your girlfriends fathers wishes... and didn't immediately, aherm, yes, when the father was out of view!!

Hi all,

Just got a 5002 Big Pilot with a stripped tube.

Pulled back off and stem out to see if it's the tube or crown (it's the tube), and noticed that there are no tabs holding the movement or the holder in place.

It's free to turn and wiggle around.

Had a look at TD pictures and it would seem they come like this from new.

Removed the movement and holder from the case and had a look; the case has three slots cut in it and obviously needs a movement holder with three tabs in the correct places.

The Top Gun rep has a holder with these three tabs in the correct places, and they're used:-

The 5002 and 5004 reps have a different movement and holder that has two cut outs in the holder where there should be two large headed screws to secure the movement to the holder, and nothing securing the holder:-

If the movement is loose that would go a way to explaining why the tubes are known for stripping their threads.

Is there a drop in movement holder that has the extra cut outs, complete with threaded screw holes, in the correct places to secure it? (so it'd have two for movement > holder as in the pic above without screw holes, and three more for holder > case)

Also any suggestions on higher quality movements to drop in? Would obviously need identical DW diameter.

My succulent salmon -sigh- perhaps you will be my daddy?

How I love Yankee colloquialisms!

Now I know there's fishing going on here, I'm just not sure who's holding the rod and where the hooks going?

Ezio, does your daughter like to accessorise the watch to dresses / shoes / handbags or like them in their own right?

Was reading a review of the new Apple watch on Hodinkee the other day which said the iWatch will be in the bin in 5 years, their mechanical (PP or something) would last 25 at the least - they forgot to mention the price difference though

Lovely movement and dial.

Is that a bit of water staining around the crown / keyless mechanism? Obviously not corrosion otherwise wouldn't be working so well.

Enjoy it!