scott60

I need to replace a broken bottom blade on an old GF (1958) clasp. How do I remove and replace the hinge pins so I can take out and replace the bottom blade? thanks

he contacted me using this address: relojplica@gmail.com These are pics of what he does: http://www.fototime.com/memberalbum/4561B1589CD64C51833654C212EE8335/7DF5126FCBAD4C549D417B4BC7F2E299 Says he can get me a 6610 case with an insert that will accept my gen.1030 for $130. Sounds too good to be true.... Please forgive me if I've made some sort of horrible faux-pas here as I don't know much about the rep world. And nothing came up on this site when I searched for his full name. TIA for any info. cheers

nt

Like....wow! I am not worthy.... Seriously impressed. Thanks again!

This has been a terrific education, many thanks! Happy Holidays, Todd

OK, thanks for the reply. I was under the impression that being silver, they might be 6538 service hands. Can you tell me why they are not 6538? cheers

Hi, This is a recent fleabay purchase from a retired watchmaker who pulled them off of a damaged (he says it was probably a Sub but not 100% sure) Rolex in the mid 70's. They fit a 1030 calibre. Can anyone tell me what I've got here? TIA for any replies.

pm sent

I've got a Rolex 1030 movement lying around and am itching to give it a job. I love the look of the older gilt Explorers, in particular the 6610. I'd be happy with a 1016 but that won't work with a 1030 movement.. Does anyone know of a source for a rep. 6610 case? Or a gen. case that I can modify and that will accommodate a 1030 movement and rep Explorer 6610 dial? I considered a 6538 Sub build but don't want to spend $1000 for a good rep. case. And I already own a nice mf gen. 5513 so don't really need a Sub.. So, if there is no reasonable way to build up a 6610 Explorer, perhaps there are other cool builds that will take a 1030? Any advice or opinions welcomed. TIA for any replies.

Your only options are to leave it as-is or have the dial professionally repainted. Yeah, this is what I keep hearing. But...there are people who do sympathetic restorations of artwork. It's not too much of a stretch to think that someone out there has the skills to do a decent touch-up. Using a nitrocellulose lacquer and tinting it for starters. If the dial were pristine I would be more inclined to throw in the towel. But since it has staining and some bubbling on the surface I think that someone in the art world may have a technique that can at least make it look a bit less noticeable. Thanks for your reply.

Yes, I agree. My only real hope is that one of the better restorers out there may take pity (and a wad of cash) and tackle this. No need for perfection here, just want it to look a bit better than it does now.

This 61 y.o dial has plenty of small stains and bubbles yet still looks pretty good on the wrist. If not for the one large bald spot I'd be pretty happy with it. I have no intention of sending it for "restoration" and am hoping that one of you guys will have some advice on a touch-up technique that will make the area less noticeable.. TIA

yeah I caught that. I'm wondering if it's maybe the angle?

And an apology to Hess Fine Auctions for calling this watch "a very crazy Franken", a statement which is incorrect. Apparently this is a correct 5512 with a redone dial.

The 5513 caseback is no big deal, Rolex mixed up casebacks on these two models all the time. Ok. great, this is very good to know!

Is Hess trying to say that this watch came from the factory with 5513 back and 5512 case?

thanks. good points and all well taken. I love the education I'm getting on this forum.

Thanks so much for this. I thought they went around 5K and that if this case went for 2K maybe it would be a deal. I'll wait until I can buy something from someone I trust

Thanks man, I really appreciate the information!

sorry about the 1565 question, it was a mistake I meant to say was the 1560 ever used, and you answered that. thanks.

yeah, thanks. he's so far told me that case, bezel and insert are original. I asked him about the how smooth the bezel rotation is. should it be 120 clicks for full rotation?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ROLEX-SUBMARINER-5513-CASE-EXCELLENT-1967-SIGNED-II-67-/130846440573?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e770e3c7d I ask because I have a nice clean 1530 movement and a lovely 5513 dial (refinished). I've been thinking of buying a Minh 6538 dial and Minh 6538 case to do an ultimate 6538 franken, but.....if I bought the above 5513 case at a decent price I'd have a gen/franken 5513 for little more than the cost of a replica 6538. Thoughts?

....for your viewing pleasure: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pointed-5512-5513-1963-Rolex-Submariner-1560-Watch-/390540810755?pt=Wristwatches&hash=item5aee0bda03 Can anyone make heads or tales of this thing? And was the cal. 1565 used in either 5512 or 5513, maybe in the later years?

Yes, sorry I meant black dial lacquer.

OK, easy to see the raised depth numbers. Difficult for me to see in the pic that the gilt is from below. I think it's probably a lot easier under the loupe. Then (under loupe) do you see the white dial lacquer ending where the gilt begins?