jerkstore

32 minutes ago, dbane883 said:

Wtf? Nanuq, did u just PS droptops pic???

Here's what u posted above:

And this is what dtm posted:

"Submariner" has been altered.

Is this some joke?

Hilarious. 

Beautiful watch, btw. Who doesn't love gilt? Congrats. 

OP, you won a bunch of fake parts. Sorry. 

ST sells good aftermarket spring bars. And you can find others on eBay. Best of luck with your build!

Somebody selling (sold?) a TC midcase as gen:

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=181763159101

Report away. The guy knows it's a fake, and pretends to be ignorant.

Whatever they told you about your insert (MK III mid font, MK IV whatsoever) - it's not made for a 5513.

That IS a genuine 5513/1680/1665 insert. Just google "5513 midfont". May not be period correct for a PCG, but it could have easily been a service replacement.

It would not fit on a sapphire watch.

Midcase that goes along with it...

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=281574699907

Thanks. That was my suspicion given the thickness of some fonts on the outside and how clean the inside is.

Gen or rep?

Thanks!

Looks great, W! Nice job assembling those parts. Now the wait begins...

You can't reach the spring with a dwo in place. Take your first and second finger and rotate the date wheel clockwise, you will line up the teeth in an opening. You'll feel it. Lift up with a single edge razor blade on the outside of the date wheel,it will pop off. To reinstall, take a 0004ths feeler gauge and slide under the date wheel against the spring, and rotate the bezel until you feel it drop down. Your done

Agreed with all except that you can reach the spring on an ETA 2836-2 and similar, since it sits up so high. See my tutorial:

http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/159437-removing-an-overlayed-date-wheel-without-a-screwdriver/

See it here:

http://bit.ly/1dV7wAF

Gen or not?

What does it end up selling for?

Just like Tomhorn says, it's an easy swap. Just slide a razor blade under the existing bezel to loosen it, pop it off with a case knife, an press down the new bezel. I might take you give minutes.

Maybe check with the seller on which models this fits;

http://bit.ly/1mTSq4s

Good luck.

Great story! Very glad to hear everything is in order and that the membership is about to increase by 1

Between those two, I would go for the MF. Maybe ask about the brown spotting (rust?) on the case neck. Look between the rehaut and the insert between 10 and 20. Does it affect other parts of the midcase or bezel assembly?

Beautiful!

Disconnect the join at the clasp. That will give you easer access to the endlinks.

What's the problem you're having? Pics help.

The deception thing is an unfortunate part of the hobby. My best advice is to do a lot of research on the forum before you make a purchase. When you target a model, read up about it. Find out what other people are saying. It's a lot like buying anything online these days. Customer reviews are extremely helpful. And dont be afraid to contact someone--as a group, RWGers are very knowledgable and helpful.

Makes nonsense to send it back to China. Fix it locally. That's a ten minute job.

Thanks. It's a blue dial as interpreted by the iPhone under basement lighting.

As reps go, the Breitling Superocean Steelfish is very nice. The gen is a classic, and so is the rep. I bought an H factory v2 "Asian ETA 2836-2" (more on this later) from Toro. Ordering was easy, and shipping was fast. I unboxed it six days after confirming QC pics.

As many of us have found, the H-factory gets a lot of little details right. And even the ones that are a little off--like the dial--are still high quality.

Rep left, gen dial right.

Sure the color is too bright, the markers and numerals are a little too big, and it doesn't reflect light quite as nicely. Still, it's a good attempt. For all those reasons, though, a gen dial is a great upgrade. It makes a nice rep a whole lot nicer.

Breitling parts are very hard to find. Although expensive, genuine Rolex dials are pretty easy to come by. In contrast, finding a genuine Breitling--let alone Steelfish--dial for a reasonable price is nearly impossible. I pulled the trigger on a blue dial, to see what all the fuss is about.

It's worth it.

I figured it would be an easy swap... Toro sold me what he called on his website an "Asian 2836-2". I wanted to drop in a Swiss movement, add the gen dial, and port the rep hands over. No such luck.

I was very surprised to learn that my 2826-2 clone is not a clone at all. It is instead a new high-beat version of the DG2813. It is also a piece of crap. The "ETA 2836-2" that Toro and other dealers (according to him) are selling in at least some of their watches is a clone of the 2836-2 in the same sense that a Yugo is a clone of a BMW. They are both cars, and these are both movements. And one of them is, well, $#@£.

On receiving the watch, I tried to operate the crown. I found that the stem was tight and didn't easily allow me to switch between positions. A keyless fix is pretty straightforward. But I couldn't find anything obviously out if place. It was just made badly and didn't work right. Beyond that, I didn't have any replacement parts--this being a new movement. I imagine that many of our watchmakers are running into the same problem.

When I brought the problems up with Toro a few weeks ago, he kindly offered a full refund. That's commendable. He also agreed to change the movement description on his website. Unfortunately, as of today, the high-beat 2813 movement is still called a "2836-2 clone" in his ad (see http://www.torobravos2014.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=656).

Read more about the problems of the new movement here:

http://www.replica-watch.info/vb/showthread.php?t=170876

In the past, I and others here have advised noobs to get the ETA clone version because it's cheaper, works well, and is nearly as reliable as the Swiss counterpart. But if dealers are calling this junk movement a "2836-2 clone", that advice no longer applies. I would say: get the basic 21j or the Swiss. Stay far away from this one. I would hope that out trusted dealers revise their product descriptions. We all know what an actual clone ETA is.

Back to the franken-making: the hands didn't transfer easily. The hour hand size on the junk "clone" was too large. Weighing my options, I picked up some genuine hands rather than take the chance that my modded rep hands would come loose and scratch the dial. I had a similar problem with the datewheel. A 2813 datewheel is completely different than a 2836-2. And Breitling fonts for the latter are hard to find. But I got lucky and saw a 2879 datewheel on the bay with the right font. Because that movement uses the same datewheel as the 2836-2, it worked out.

In any case, here is the finished product. I'm very happy with it:

Can anyone tell me whether genuine hands meant for a 17340 will work for a 17390? Do both sets fit the ETA 2836-2 movement? Will the 17340 hands be long enough?

Thanks in advance.

I've had my steelfish for a while now and when I wear it for two or three days it works fine.  However when I don't wear it for a day it stops working.  

 

 

My question is how long should the automatically movement last?

If you bought the 2836-2 clone from Toro, that could be the reason your movement is failing. In fact, that watch doesn't come with a 2836-2 clone, but a new high beat piece of junk 2813 variant. I know because I just recieved one. There are some threads about it at RWI. This is not a good development for us

http://vintagerolexmarket.com/

Seventh ad down right now. For some reason, I can't link to the specific ad with my iPhone.

16750, 16710, 16800, 16610 (case back only), and 16660.

Happy hunting.