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jerkstore

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Posts posted by jerkstore

  1. Nanuq, thanks for the suggestion!  Anybody else have a gen spec (26mm) dial they want to part with?

     

    Also, I did some reading, and it looks like the 701 crown wasn't introduced until January of 1972.  That means a 700 crown works on gilt, meters first, or early feet first (ie, non-maxi) dials.

    http://www.network54.com/Forum/207593/thread/1340830196/5512+crown

     

    At 26.5mm, Ingod's dial is too large for my dial seat -- 26.3mm.  :(

  2. Breaking it down, my case has:

    (1) rounded crown guards, ie not pointy

    (2) thinnish case

    (3) 700 crown

    What dial would you fit? Gilt, meters first, or feet first?

    What's correct for (1)-(3)?

    Thanks

    oooo nice case! id love to measure that with calipers ;)

    You've got PM. :)

  3. Mapman: early 703s look like 702s.  Easiest way to tell the difference is to place the crown coronet-side down.  

     

    On the 702, the threads run all the way to the top. 

    http://www.chrono-shop.net/img/p/953-5005-thickbox.jpg

     

    On the 703, they don't.

    http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/1/4/9/0/1/4/9/webimg/572089904_o.jpg

     

     

    Looking at the tubes, when installed the 7020 has threads near the case, but is then smooth:

    http://www.chrono-shop.net/img/p/3042-22122-thickbox.jpg

     

    For the 7030, the tube has a smooth spot near the case to fit a gasket, and then is threaded:

    http://www.jewelerssupplies.com/media/R7030.jpg

    • Like 2
  4. The 5513 was produced for around thirty years. Over that time, it saw many dial variations.

    I would appreciate your help deciding which one to match to this case.

    It's a gen midcase with serial number removed. Based on its thin profile and original tube, a 24-7000, I would date it to the mid-to-late 60's. Do you agree?

    null_zps511293c7.jpg

    null_zps618758e8.jpg

    A 700 crown screws down perfectly.

    null_zps0b10c5aa.jpg

    null_zps459540db.jpg

    null_zpsa99850e5.jpg

    What dial(s) are correct for it?

    Thanks!

  5. I just happened onto one of his eBay auctions yesterday. I wouldn't know his eBay name but I recognized his eBay pic/ icon thing.

    What surprised me, the parts he was selling were crap and his pictures were a mess.

    Woof, could you post a link? Or at least a pic of the icon? I'm not familiar with it, and I want to keep an eye out in the future.

    Thanks

  6. I've been following some recent eBay auctions for various cases. Right now, there's a 5513 and a 1680 listed:

    http://bit.ly/18gHA1B

    http://bit.ly/18Yp1C9

    http://bit.ly/18Yp5BF

    Associated case parts, too. A few others are already auctioned off (another 5513, a 1675 etc).

    Apparently, the VRFers think these are all (high quality) fakes:

    http://www.network54.com/Forum/207593/message/1373815950/All+Fakes-

    What do you think? If they are in fact replicas, any idea where these parts are being sourced? Apologies if this has already been discussed.

  7. I have a "Tritium service dial" that the seller claimed was genuine, and guaranteed that it was never refinished/relumed. Based on what I saw, I believed it to be a genuine Mk5 1675 dial.

     

    Do you agree?  Here are a few pics:

     

     

    C8208B33-F704-4954-B3B0-7F85069B3236-291

     

    AAFB148C-738F-4872-97AA-62DA6C559A39-291

     

    0A959196-AAD4-4ED7-8B6E-254BA24FF672-291

     

    B9F40FB6-024E-40C1-95D4-BBC3C3F242FD-291

     

    4637C477-8EC5-4D02-97FA-D0FAE24648E4-291

     

     

    I checked with the usual suspects (at least what they post online currently): Yuki and Ingod appear to rep Mk4's; their coronets are completely different than mine.  NDT's is the closest to the pics I posted above, although the text on NDT's is quite different, and so is the sample dial's back.  Phong's website wouldn't let me zoom into the one dial he carries that might be close.

     

    My dial appears similar to this one, although my lume is in a little better shape.  It also resembles the Mk5 example at this RWG post.  

     

    What are your thoughts?  Are there any tests I can conduct to check and make sure it's actually tritium lumed?  Or anything else I can use to verify its authenticity?

     

    If it is in fact authentic and tritium lumed, where does that place it value-wise with respect to service dials that use luminova/superluminova?

     

    Thanks for your help, and apologies for the noobish questions.  Happy 4th!

  8. The idea is that you want the hour hand to strike 12 just as the date changes. So, on time set position, rotate the crown slowly until the date just clicks over. Install the hour hand. Then, to be sure you have it right, rotate the crown again until the date changes. If you're hour hand is pointed at 12... Great. If not, you can try to nudge the hand a bit with a soft edge (while holding the crown so it doesn't rotate). Or, just pop the hand off and try again.

    When you've got that straight, move the hour hand to point at a different hour. 6 is a good candidate, and install the minute hand so it points directly at 12. That's so the hands are in the correct position, relative to one another (recall that your hour hand is anchored to the correct position for the date change). You could leave the hour hand pointed at 12 for all this, but soon so can make it difficult to see, and might cause them to rub against one another. Make sure to check for that, by the way, by rotating your hands all the way around the dial a few times. If the foul, it might stop the movement. So don't let that happen.

    As for the seconds hand, that's really no problem, as long as you have a hacking mechanism. So, place it on there pointed in any direction, once you get the other hands out of the way. Use a loupe.

    Good luck!

  9. Tiger sells those hands for like $30, for both ETA and dg2813 sizes.

    jerkstore could you post some pics of the engravings on the raffles case?

    They come engraved with both 6538 and 5508 (so the rep makers cover their bases, i guess). Silix cases usually say 6541 or something. Case back says 5508, but the pic isn't very clear. I don't have one anymore or I would open it up.

    BBA7A579-7FD5-4AAC-8247-03EFE1B032A9-154

    D341F222-8A64-4521-86D5-0511A2692DDC-154

    7DEF9FC4-5109-4A71-9ACA-5369A1CB3DAD-437

    • Like 1
  10. Can you help me ID this case?  Who made it?  

     

    After pouring over pics of 6538 cases, I have a suspicion.  But, I want to get your take...  (Sorry for the iPhone quality pics).

     

    F9C343C5-49EB-46A4-A0D7-BAB2BB0FDF0B-952

     

    41C2278F-C6A8-470D-A018-CC8D5287223F-952

     

    00645AF9-7C2C-4FFD-8141-5F3E177B64C3-952

     

    C7CEE1F1-A568-4938-8CAF-0E31D75D1A60-952

     

    93435565-3E2E-476A-AE47-39E9234A818E-952

     

    BDD072B5-582B-4BF7-A415-00B932F2A689-952

     

    F3E5C21E-53C5-4E05-BAE9-6060E916F5E1-952

     

    0728422C-379C-4F9C-B44E-D8F7F7A7C0FA-952

     

    62B98A39-79CB-4C70-B95E-D874EBE614FF-952

     

    596BE086-F078-4D5C-AD3E-BA67163AC790-952

     

    C76092A5-3C04-4D0D-BCD4-C4B2FF14708D-952

     

    F154A469-A029-4704-8A1A-FA3BB3A1291E-952

     

     

    Thanks for your help!

     

     

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