247Tinker

Sam, Let me give you my opinion and experience and maybe that might help, as I was where you were several years ago. The trusted dealer recommended here are good to work with - Joshua and Andrew are professional and straight forward, they seem to be the top dealers. I have purchased from both. I have both Rep Subs and GMTs. Subs: I have one 116610 TT Ceramic Sub with a Swiss ETA movement. It is flawless in my opinion and I have compared. It was my first big step and my worries were put to rest. I have another Vintage Sub, it is actually my second as the other just died after several months. Both have/had a Asian 2813 movement. It was inexpensive compared to the TT with the ETA movement. The second one runs like a champ and I have adjusted the timing so it is actually one of my most accurate. I actually ware it the most as it is lighter, inexpensive and if it gets knocked around I don't worry. I am trying to get a replacement movement for the broken one and will give that to a friend. I have another Black Ceramic Sub with an Asian movement however first the pearl fell out and could not get the replacement to stay no matter what glue I used. Then the bezel fell off. Still runs but looking for a case assembly and will swap out the movement and put in the replacement bezel, maybe a blue - just tinkering around. GMTs: I have one Coke with a Asian Movement with the separate adjustment for the 24 hour hand. Runs like a champ. I just purchased a new Black and Blue Ceramic GMT Asian Movement. It has some quality issues! Everything is there and the separate pieces are good quality however the alignment of the Dial to the movement/case is miss-aligned. I reviewed the QC pics and discussed with the trusted dealer and was told that it was the camera angle, however when I got the watch he was wrong! Also the Stem got stuck and I was about to throw the watch in the repair pile. Messed with it for awhile and now it is working again. I will wear it to cut the lawn or give it to a friend. On a good note I like the look of the Black and Blue ceramic and am looking to replace it with and Swiss ETA Movement. I like the Rolex look but I think in the future I will swing toward a Swiss ETA version over the Asian movements. I think the factories pays more attention to there detail so you get a more quality rep. +Cost=+Quality Read a lot of the posts. Were good people on this forum A lot of words but hope it helps Tinker

Looking for a complete assembly A2813 with the right 6 and 9, face and hands to drop in a case. Anyone know where or who I could get one from?

Nikki6, I have not purchased from Watcheden, but that is what spurred this post as I had seen a nice IWC Crono Quartz on "clearance". Still trying to identify which IWC it is a rep of? How was your experience with them?

Fraggle42, Yes Quartz..z! - I know! - you hear what I am writing - lol I am seeing that the Quartz(z) movements have slightly different positioning. Do you and the others have any recommendations as to reps that are ...to close to call? I have spent hours perusing the trusted dealers and doing some comparing with an original pics and possibly I have not seen something that your "fresh eyes" might know of that could be an option for me to look at. Just asking!

LOL - Correct! I made my complaint to the computer designers not to put the s and z keys so close! I told them I would mess it up...!!!

Opinions on Quarts Chrono Movement Reps Guys - need your opinions and input. I have an empty spot in the watch case and was looking for a nice representation of a Chronograph using the Japanese Quarts Movement. The watch winder is full up. Been looking at some but would greatly appreciate other options and opinions Here is what I have been looking at and my opinions. Omaga Planet Ocean Chrono - 2 Sub Dials in Blue, w/date at 6 O'clock. ( Issues Date looks a little small and the 3,6 & 9 markers are a little long) - But a nice piece! IWC Aqua Timer Chrono 2009 Black Dial & Black w/Yellow Bezel all SS including Bracelet ( Issues the 12,3,6,& 9 markers look a little long) - This is my top choice so far! Chopard Gran Turismo XL Chrono Mille Miglia - (Sub Dials are not correct to original) - Like the looks of the watch ...but! Breitling TransOcean Unitime or Navitimer - I know nothing about Breitling! I am a little picky on the face of the watch it should be as accurate as possible, but knowing these are Quarts movements the backs might be slightly different. SS or leather bracelets are my preference - rubber or plastic is a hard sell! My budget is $150 us plus or minus.

LOL - OK here is what I will do. I will do a pull test using both adhesives on a piece of stainless and see using the scrap ceramic bezel insert pieces I have used the 3M Emblem Adhesive ( on car restorations) and can probably get the spec sheet on it really easily. However the GS Hypo cement (regular - non UV cure) I ordered from the jewelry supply (5 bucks) is specifically for watch and jewelry repair and settings. I liked that it had a fine applicator. Once I get the GS Hypo here I will try to find the spec sheet and compare. You guys are killing me! Thank god I am not asking what color to paint my car - lol Still thanks for the help, I needed a place to start

Ok - So here is the plan and correct me where I am wrong. I will use a dental pick to start to lift off the ceramic from the bezel ring progressing to more heftier tools like a screw driver as needed. I will clean off the old adhesive as best as possible with some nylon and/or delrin scrapers only using an acetone solvent as needed for final cleaning before applying the ne insert. I will pick up some GS hypo Cement - looks like good stuff and for a few bucks worth getting stuff made for the job. Apply GS hypo Cement sparingly to the same areas on the metal bezel and the contacting surface Set the bezel insert into place and align Use 2 small pieces of masking tape to keep alignment Use appropriate crystal press insert (~ 30 mm) and apply light consistent pressure overnight to let set up ( I have about a 1lb bag of steel bird shot in a cotton bag I use for just that purpose) After 24 hours - clean up and wear with pride! Again thanks guys! I will take picture and write a good process for others!

Not a noob. Do not know what you mean by BP. I recently purchased it from Trusty Andrew. It was his top of the line Sub TT with the Swiss ETA movement. I wanted something nice for a milestone b-day.

Great input guys! To answer some of the questions: Yes it is just the ceramic insert within the rotating bezel. Per Andrew and his description everything is interchangeable? (But I have read that the description and actuality are slightly .......a stretch. Do not know for sure). I did not want to start prying that whole thing off. I have done it on some old style Subs with the metal insert but not the new ones and especially a TT. I have used automotive emblem adhesive before. Have never used Gorilla Glue. I have acetone - my question is will the acetone blemish the crystal or the gold plating? Again - I appreciate greatly the input

I could use some expert advice on removing and replacing the Ceramic Bezel on my 116613 SUB TT with Swiss ETA 2836-2, purchased from Andrew. One of the link screws came out and the watch slid off my wrist and hit the pavement almost flat on the Crystal. Not a scratch other then the Ceramic Bezel Pearl Dot broke off/shattered and a piece of the Bezel came with it. I temporarily glued it back on with a tinny dab of super clue. So I ordered a replacement Bezel from Andrew.....and here I am let me qualify that I love this watch! keeps great time and looks awesome! Need the Help on: 1) Good Procedure for removing the old Bezel. 2) Procedure for Replacing with the new Bezel. Also recommendations for adhesive. I have been reviewing the posts and read where you remove the pearl and use a dental pick to lift off the old Bezel through that opening. Confirmation and or better step procedure would help. I have also seen pictures or reworks where it looks like the Bezel was glued on. I would hate to screw this up - some part of me wants to just purchase the lesser expensive Asian movement equivalent (no offense, I have several others and so does my son) and just swap out the movements which should be straight forward.