justudor

Phew, tube installed and stem cut to fit. I swear the crown isn't sitting as flat as it should. That is, against the case. But it could just be my perception.

NEED to do this cannon pinion. I can't believe it bothers me so much!

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Sorry guys, so is H4 or H3 more suitable for 2824 movement?

Thanks

Yes. It looks great. A nice touch and look gen or not!

Here is how mine sits on my black and white. Might order 2 CP and install onto pumpkin and this one.

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Nice! It does make a nice difference I think. Do you know if you have to remove much to fit the pinion?

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Great dialogue going on here and good info for all.

Yes, H3 is shorter than H4.

I think H4 looks exactly like gen IMO but others will have a better idea if H3 is better.
 

Thanks!

Take a look at this thread from RWI, this is a far better option for your tube and crown fitting.

http://www.replica-watch.info/vb/showthread.php?t=182364

Thanks Adrian - 

You miss the point, H3 is obviously lower than H4, however a 2892-2 and a gen Omega 2500 movement has a lower stem height than a 2824-2 or 2836-2

If you use 2824-2 or 2836-2 then you will be ok without the additional dial spacer, however if you want a Super Franken and use the 2892 or 2500 omega gen movement you will still need an additional dial spacer to get the stem to align with the existing case tube.

The additional mod to get the gen case tube and crow to fit is not easy to do unless you have the correct tooling. Same goes for gen (functional) He valve

So, a H3 or H4 is fine on the 2824/6 movement. H4 being higher and more accurate?

Yes, it looks like such a challenge to do! *sigh

This is my franken with a H3 cp upgrade

In my opinion it's worth...

Very nice sir. Is it a simple upgrade? H3 is shorter than h4?

Well, now your asking!, in my professional opinion I would not glue or araldite the case tube in, seriously who want to wander round with a watch on with a "cocked up" crown and tube?. I know lots of members do this as I suppose it does get you the desired result (gen crown and tube)

Yes,,if it fails, you can just heat the adhesive and re-glue another in, but wouldn't you be happier with a gen screw in case tube, that actually screws in, no glue !!

I know which I'd prefer !

I don't think it's worthwhile to get a gen case. I'd go second hand gen, considering the cases would be $5-700?

It is definitely a compromised option to glue the tube but seems to be the accepted method on the forums. I'd be willing to listen to other options but not for the cost of a gen case!

I used TC's movement with the H4 CP already installed. Worked perfectly and came out fantastic.

Very nice. Easy to do I imagine? H4 is the ideal option?

Thanks

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Araladiting a gen tube in is not a good option really, the gen tubes and crowns are known to fail fairly frequently, this I due to Their physical dimensions and thread sizes, they're quite weak.

Another option on this would be better long term, especially if this is a keeper!

Are you suggesting that the entire process of a glue in place to seat the tube is not sufficient or should one use epoxy?

I have paid for tube and stem and will be looking to assemble when they arrive and compelte the above pumpkin (finally!)

Does anyone know if the H4 cannon pinion is a worthy upgrade? Would be nice to get the stack a little higher.

Everyone,

FYI - I have successfully installed the Gen Bezel assembly onto the V5 4813 PO 42mm Case.

Just need stem, tube and I should be complete.

I haven't seen a 8500 drop past 3800USD. 42mm PO 2500 start from at best 2600-3400 I've seen, of varying conditions and included items.

Hope you're ok. I hate mindless moronic acts of violence or stupidity. Everyone should grow up.

Looks like 21J, but let someone else confirm. Definitely not 2824/2836 or 25J

Interesting progress!

 

Maybe you can post some pics?

 

Good luck on the final assembly, Dainese!

Version 3 Case

Swiss 2824

Gen Dial

Gen Hands

Gen DW

Unknown crystal with good double AR (odd dull brown hue)

Gen Bezel insert

Rep bezel (Could NEVER pull the bezel off this too)

Transplant into:

Version 5 Case 4813 shipped variant.

Swiss 2824

Gen Dial

Gen Hands

Gen DW

Gen crystal (more AR scuffs than I remembered and possibly marks on the inside too)

Rep bezel (Could NOTpull on the genuine bezel    )

Hi all,

Further to this thread, I just finished a trial fit of franken parts into a V5 4813 case.

I had no issues whatsoever except I couldn't get the bezel to seat onto case. No matter what I did. It was so tough. Anyone know if this should be an issue or was I doing something wrong? The rep bezel came off so easy it was funny.

I even used the brass (?) movement holder but flipped the securing tabs upside down to get a better seat of ring against case.

The gen crystal pressed on fine but was almost too easy so I do question the water proof-ness.

The tube was screwed in and I used pliers to remove. From what I read epoxy is a good option to seating new tube (which I don't have yet).

I also noted that the version 3 case and rep crown used a shorter stem into the 2824 clone movement. The gen crown is 'shorter' and will require a longer stem.

Also happy to assist, as I'm based in Sydney. Sent from my GT-I9305 using Tapatalk

Site shows pre-order sold out?

2 releases of 100 each were sold out in a very quick time. I think a day or so. Incredible response.

I actually bought a genuine because I like it so much and will forever be uncomfortable wearing reps. In any case, it's looks really, scarily accurate. Pearl was an issue and some minor things that no one would notice.

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ETA 2824- 2 I guess, but I'm not certain. Anybody else?

i know thread is old.. but may i ask, what eta movt can be used for this watch?

My example was listed as 2836, but when I ran into problems weeks into ownership. The movement markings said 2824. So not sure why.

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You are all welcome guys - happy to contribute to the forums

Dear All,

Sorry about the delayed reply, forgot about this!

Thanks for the insight everyone.

I will NOT be diving so I think the necessary precautions as mentioned will hopefully suffice.

Thanks again

Dear All,

As above. 

At what point is a pressure test warranted? 

Is it a matter of course that they should be done every time the watch has experienced any disassembly? 

Would a caseback removal and replacement using grease warrant a pressure test in your opinion/experience?

Thanks all,

dainese

have a look on the RWI PLanet ocean parts thread. Try cross referencing the part numbers

I also wondered about this too. We all know lume degrades with time but is it from light absorption and release or physical ageing?

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Would typical practice be to grease seals and check fit etc before they test?

I'm just wondering about the order in which to do it. I want to waterproof but if I can do it locally I will. Modders want 70usd to waterproof.

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PO bracelets are notoriuosly difficult to resize. Do you have the proper tool for pushing out the pins? It makes it a whole lot easier.

Haha

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