predfan2001

Sure. It's easy, with ultra fine sandpaper. I first tried painting over it, but the T could still be seen. After gently sanding it away there was no evidence of it. It did make the dial a little dull there but I was going to dullcoat it anyway. And I promise the markers aren't that yellow, just the pics.

Oh well, I ended up slapping the no2 5517 back together for now. And knowing this now, my Tropic 19 just went into my first 5517.

Well this project has come to a screeching halt. I prepared the dial and movement for installation into the case and guess what? It's too small . I would have never dreamed that the 5517 reps had a different size dial. So what does this mean? The 5517 rep case will accept gen parts like a MBW. Just to see I installed a Tropic crystal and tried a gen 1680 dial I had into a 5517 case. They fit. This doesn't help my 5513 project any but the info may come in handy to someone. So for now the parts get put away and my 5513 still illudes me .

I've been wanting a 5513 for along time (I had a gen in the early 90s) but I don't really like any of the reps avail. Most of them have yellow script, I guess to make them look like a gilt dial or something. I did some studying and chose to build my own just out of readily available cn Submariner parts. The goal is to complete this watch and have a total investment of around $200. This case is just your standard 1680 style case. As luck would have it, this case is thinner than my other Subs, like a 5513 case. I modified the cgs (I do mod the cgs to be centered with the crown) and redrilled the lugholes. I also rounded all of the sharp edges for a vintage look. The bezel insert was bleached for a couple hours and the pearl removed. I had a new Tropic to go in but I wasn't aware that most of the "non MBW" reps will not accept them because the crystal is too thick to fit into the case. I ended up using an old Waltham plexi crystal I had till something better comes along. It looks very similar to a Tropic 19 to me plus it is used and scratched up which adds to the vintage look. As far as the movement and dial goes, I'm using a rep 5517 and removing the "T". Here's pics: The "T" removed, a shot of dullcoat and a mist from the airbrush

And the case passed the test. Overnight submerged and no leaks. The tube was loctited, crystal set in place with GS Hypo crystal cement and all of the o-rings are new and lubed. The bubbles seen are just from trapped air pockets under the bezel and in the end links.

Getting closer on my 5513 project: What do ya think? (inspiration was my love for the 5513, a thin wallet, Eunomians's gen., and Justasgoods wares and advise)

Well I haven't been around much lately, been riding my new motorcycle and getting all the pieces together for my 5513 project. So I guess it will be my wrist check: Yes, the movement is not in yet...but soon! And it will look around 30-40 years old...I promise! (and yes, the pearl stays out! I like it that way!)

I got the tube out of the 5517 to go into my new case. I had tried removing one out of and old case I had and all of the threads came off of the tube. This time I layed the case in a pan and sit it on the stove to heat it up, the tube can right out and with no damage. I'll loctite it into the new case, install new seals and use the rep crown for now. If it ever gives trouble I'll go the gen route since I don't have the proper tools. Now I'm trying to figure out how to install a non date crystal but running into a snag. I guess the tropic is too thick f\to fit into the case....maybe I'll have to use the crystal out of the 5517 as well.

Hmmmm...makes wonder then. If you have a "non MBW" Submariner with a plexi crystal and the crystal breaks, where do you get a crystal? This is the first time I've taken a plexi crystal out of a rep. There isn't much of a groove for the crystal to sit in. I just it relies alot on crystal cement to hold it in?

I was wondering how many of you have attempted to install a Tropic 19 crystal into a standard vintage Sub (non-MBW). Tropics will not press into my case. The crystals that came out of replicas fit fine. The outter diameter is the same on both crystals. Is it that the Tropic is too thick?

Yeah I guess I should go ahead, but I didn't have much luck on the last case I tried. I bought a 12 pack of the correct cobalt bits and attempted to drill lugholes in an old Sandoz case. It was very easy to drill so then I tried a Sub case (the one I was going to use for this watch). It had no lugholes but was a vintage plexi crystal case. I used up half of the bits and was only able to drill a tiny dimple. I know from gunsmithing there are many grades of stainless. Maybe this case isn't as hard as the last one I tried.

Cut some short pieces of small tubing and JB weld them into the links you already have.

One of our collectors answered my request for a vintage case with lugholes for my "5513 on a budget" project. I received the new case yesterday and expected it to be the typical vintage cn Sub case with the horrendous crown guards. To my surprise this case has fairly good cgs already. It has no serial numbers or markings of any kind at the lugs. It's supposed to be the case used on a red 1680 rep. The bezel is too thin so it will be replaced with one I have. This is the first case like this I've seen, maybe newer or older rep Sub case?? Unfortunately it has no tube and I'm not sure if a gen will fit without retaping. I'm also hoping a replacement tropic will fit. See what you think: The 5517 and case that will be the starting point. The goal is a 5513 that has all white lettering (not yellow) without having a fortune tied up in it. I'm definately not expecting perfection here. The 5517 dial and movement will be used with the "T" removed and the dial will be vintaged. New Sub hands and a replacement tropic crystal will be installed. I have some gen springbars but not sure if I want to try drilling this case. The Silix ETA 5517, case, crystal and hands total about $200 so far not counting shipping. I'll use a band from the parts bin. Solid oyster, riveted or folded?? Most likely the solid because it feels heavier.

It looks ok to me but I'm no expert. I know that Wightstuff knows alot about the 5512/5513 dials.

Great work...and a great watch. My all time favorite is the 5513 but I haven't seen a good dial in any rep, even the MBW. That 5512 looks very nice.

Yes, I'd say lucky is more like it. I have a few keepers that were very nice watches from Trustytime, but I can get the same watches cheaper from other sites. Especially after his last price increase. And to Dax, I understand that there aren't any perfect reps and I don't expect perfection. The point is that Trustytime is selling a $150.00 watch for $488.00 and billing it as the best there is. "A true 1:1 that has been reworked to perfection and waterproofed".....lol. An ETA "Noob" is far superior and less than half the money. It has just concerned me lately that I have read posts by Newbies actually thinking about ordering one of the Ultimates.

I keep reading questions regarding this watch here and in RWI and wanted to give my opinion again for the newbies (and hopefully help those in search of a better Sub). Let me first say that I have had horrible experiences dealing with Trusytime and I don't buy from them anymore. I don't care what anyone says, there can't be any quality control and they have to be drop shipping. Over half of the watches I purchased from him had problems right out of the box. Yes, their customer service is ok, but the headaches of sending watches back overseas and waiting for replacements sucks. I've actually paid nearly $30.00 to send a watch back and they sent me another bad one. I'd be willing to say that I've wasted over $100.00 in overseas shipping dealing with Trustytime. I have since found other dealers and have had no problems. I actually ended up with my "Ultimate" because of several issues I was having with their watches. I ordered a couple of watches from him that were d.o.a. so his offer was the "sell" me the Ultimate at a discounted price and exchange 1 of the bad watches. To be honest, I'm not so sure that this watch is not just your typical ETA rep with a high price tag and is offered to customers at a discount (which is still higher than most ETA reps) for an illusion of customer satisfaction. I have read the posts several people who own a Trusy Ultimate and state that they purchased it at a discounted price due to product and quality issues. Kind of like if you went into a McDonalds and your hamburger wasn't good. You complain and they say "well since the burger wasn't good, we can sell you a $20.00 "Ultimate" Big Mac for $8.00. You think, wow that's a huge savings and buy it. Then you realize you just got a regular Big Mac that sells for $3.00 but you just paid $8.00 for it! When I received my ultimate, I couldn't believe how bad the rehaut was. This rehaut is where the whole "wokky rehaut" issue started. Some people call it "conical". I do think the dial is very nice but the cyclops is too far rt. This would be (and probably is) just an entry level ETA rep at best that should sell for well under $200.00. It doesn't hold a candle to the "Noobmariners" in overall appearance. I actually ended up never wearing mine because of the rehaut issue and swapped a Tudor dial into it. That was ok, but the dial was too small and I ended up putting the original dial back into it and using it as a beater. All and all that's about all this watch is good for to me, a beater. If you want a 16610 rep, look on past this one. Some of the "perfects" have a better rehaut, and of course your $488.00 would be better spent on a MBW. New: With the Tudor dial: Now with yellowed markers and beat up a little:

I don't really trust the riveted bands on a daily worn watch. I have a couple but they're on watches like my "no cg" Sub rep that rarely sees any wrist time. Spidel used to offer a folded Oyster in their catalog. I ordered one along with a Jubilee for my gen Datejust about 10 years ago. Granted the folded Oyster is not 100% correct, it's good enough for me. It's going on my 5513 when its done.

Well after months of thought about which motorcycle would best fit my needs, I ended up with the Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Custom. (not actually my bike but identical) I still think the V Star is a very cool looking bike but the new Honda Shadow VT750C2 caught my eye last month. It has a 21" frt wheel and nearly the same dimentions as the Harley Dyna. I was a little concerned about the 750 having enough power to haul my heavy hiney around. I ended up at the dealer and found a beautiful blue VT750C2 and since it was a 2007, they gave me a great price to make room for the 2008s. The only thing I didn't really like was the shaft drive. Other than that, you can customize this bike anyway you want it (I was thinking flat black like the Harley Street Bob). As I talked with the salesman, he said that if power was a concern I should look at the Vulcan 900 Custom (I had to have a 21" frt wheel-just my preference-and no touring bikes). The Vulcan was only a few hundred more and after sitting on it, it felt like it should have been thousands more. I'm 6'1" tall and this bike fits me well. It's big and brawny. The bike kind of reminds me of the Victory Vegas 8 Ball I like from behind. Because of that, I went with black. So far I have no complaints at all. My advise to anybody wanting a little "weekend" V-Twin to relieve stress, get the Honda VT750C2. A heck of a deal for the $5800 range. But if you are concerned about power and the possibility of double riding or interstate travel, get the Kawasaki. And definately go with the big K if your a tall guy. These bikes are good commuter/pleasure bikes and real values. Also saves a few $$$ in gas. I wouldn't recommend either of these bikes for people who think Harley Davidson is the only company that makes motorcycles or old guys that want a motorcycle that looks as big (and has as many lights) as a moving van. (just kidding, I know it takes all kinds )It doesn't matter what you ride, as long as you ride!

I started wearing this one a few weeks ago after I replaced the movement just to make sure it was going to perform ok. I haven't taken it off yet. Keeps perfect time, no leaks in shower or swimming, and the date changes right. It's a great beater. Haven't been on here much lately. Desided to bite the bullet and buy a motorcycle so I've been shopping around. I chose the Vulcan 900 Custom in black for styling, size and performance. We just unloaded it last night so I'm gonna try to break her in this weekend.

BTW...I just placed an order about a week ago and they have a different PP user name now.

I think it may be the ideal cleaner for a Noobmariner . I guess I'll stick to using it on carpets though.

Thanks! It's not much, but I have enough tools to do a complete and proper disassembly and reassembly. I already had many tools that I use for mods (drill press, buffer, Dremel...). I would advise anybody thinking about taking their watch apart to invest in the proper tools first. As you can see in the pic, I have several cheap tools like the pin press, crystal press and other misc tools. Cheap plastic tools like these are fine and get the job done but I would recommend purchasing high quality Swiss or vintage tools such as screwdrivers, picks, tweezers, hand pullers and punches.

Today it's this one: Ok...not really. Still have this one on:

Relating to the subject of crystal installation, here's a tip for noobies like me. I just noticed that the date window was slightly off on my Sub. I remembered that the best oyster case back removal tool is a wad of tape, so I tried a tape ball on the crystal to turn it slightly. It worked perfectly.