predfan2001

Here's another one for ya. Tudorish Sub on the Bay It would be sweet to have a model decal maker make a Tudor Sub decal set for this dial. Most dial lettering comes off easy enough. Then the dial could be clearcoated. Snowflake hands and a movement upgrade. Maybe drill the lugholes and add a non-sel band...maybe a black bezel and a Tudor crown.

It's been the 5517 since yesterday. I guess I'll just leave it on.

If reference to cn 5517s, I just received my second one. The first one (pictured above in my previous post) had the typical bezel that most vintage cn Subs have. The new one appears to have the same case, but a totally different bezel. It's bezel is like on some of the newer models that has the wider bezel insert. It just looks too big on the watch to me. I tried the one off of my old 5517 and it will not stay secure. Even if I swap the spring. I'm not sure what they changed??? Currently I'm thinking about trying to remove the "T" and installing a mercedes hand set. I have a cn 5513 style case with lugholes on the way, I may build a vintaged 5513 out of the 5517. Even if I have to paint over the "T" I can still age the dial where it's not evident. I like the 5513s but most of the reps have script that looks too yellow. This seems to be the only way to get a 5513 like I want without having to buy a MBW and a gen dial.

Just got the new movement put in my beater. Making sure everything is working right for a few days.

I've been using thinned out flat brown or rust paint airbrushed on the dial. Then tint the markers and hands with a very thin mix of tan and yellow enamel using the smallest brush you can find. I do use Testors Dullcoat on my vintage dials before the hands go back on. Here's my 16610 that I just aged the markers and hands:

Wokky "Ultimate" Submariner from Andrew he discounted for me because of all the problems I had with his watches. (he told me it was the best) LOL: Since I was embarrassed to wear it because of the terrible rehaut, I installed a Tudor dial: Turned out the Tudor dial was too small. Then I ruined the movement trying to fix it. After a new movement and the original dial, I am happy to have it back for a beater. At least it wasn't a total loss:

Ok, I just earned my first noobie badge. The whole problem with this movement was my misunderstanding. It all became clear when I inspected the movement under magnification. I had assumed by looking with my bare eyes that a second hand had a pin that inserted into a tube. When I had no luck getting the second hand on I noticed a pin sticking out so I figured someone had attempted to install a second hand and broke it off. The second hand appeared to have a pin on the back that held it in the movement. After inspecting other movements I have I saw that they all have a pin sticking out for the second hand and the second actually has a tiny tube that inserts over the pin. I feel so stupid overlooking something so simple and thank goodness I didn't message the seller of the movement. I guess I need to invest in one of those magnification lamps (or get glasses). Now I have the watch reassembled but with the Submariner dial back in it. The Tudor dial is too small even though it fits in the rehaut. These watch movements evidently rely on the dial fitment in the case more than I thought. The Tudor dial is 1mm-1.5mm smaller than the Sub dial and I couldn't keep the movement tight in the case. Anybody need a Tudor dial? lol Yes, I feel like an idiot....I've disassembled and reassembled watches several times and never caught this, another lesson learned! My wokky Sub lives again!

Back to this for the work week

Well, I'm finished with this watch. I mean FINISHED! DONE! OVER!. This watch has [censored] me off more than once since I received it from Andrew. Now that I am putting it back together with a "new" movement I purchased, I find that the second hand won't go on. Guess why? There is already a pin from a second hand broke off in it. New my [censored]. Time to cut my losses. Sorry that I am venting but it is upsetting to spend as much time as I have screwing with this watch just to find I've been screwed over on the movement.

Moved my sig to my avatar and made a new sig with Windows paint

I'm a big fan of the military look watches Hamilton Field Khaki XL Chase Durer Bomber Command Submariner 5517 And my attempt to give my UPO a military look

I've done several dials. I use Testors dull-coat spray. It works great, you just have to spray it lightly and slowly. It's very thin and will run if you spray too much on.

Well I gave it a shot. I used a 2 part epoxy to adhere to datewheel spacer to the back of the dial so it's on there for good. I used an old junk movement to set up and align the dial and ring. After the epoxy set up, I removed the dial from the junk movement and cleaned any excess from the inside of the spacer ring. Then I tested the epoxy on an old movement and dial. I just applied about 6 tiny dabs on the movement where the datewheel spacer sits. It held secure yet it could still be popped back apart with about the same force it takes to pop dial feet loose, which is important should the watch need service. So now I am waiting for the epoxy to set up and if all goes well I'll be wearing my watch again soon. I'm keeping my fingers crossed, this is a new movement and I hope it functions correctly. It is one of those 2836-2s that is silver with turning swirls...the movement looks really good, to bad it's going in a watch with a solid caseback. Thanks The Zigmeister!! Oh BTW, the reason a new movement is going in is because I already tried another adhesive that ran and got in the movement. It also stringed out really bad and got all over the datewheel. That's why I used epoxy this time. I mixed it up and let it started to sit up a tad before application. As always with watch repairs......lessons learned.

Ok, maybe I misunderstood what dial dots are. I received the ones I ordered from a watch parts supplier today and I don't have a clue what they could be used for. They are not double sided, just little tan paper dots that are single sided adhesive. They look like hour markers for a vintage Submariner. ????? I guess I'll look for some very thin double sided tape at the local hobby store. I'm afraid if I use any type of adhesive it will get in the movement.

I really hate to wear any of my Rolex reps in public or at work. I always get all of those "is that real?" questions. It doesn't matter if it is real or fake, they still ask. When I wear my gen datejust, everybody assumes its fake. I'd rather wear my Omegas because few people even know what they are where I live.

In response to Cableguys question about Tudor dials: I stumbled across my 27mm Tudor Hydronaut dial on eBay in Suissetime's store. They had a 27mm and a 26mm. I knew the 26mm was too small for most replica cases so I made them a offer on the larger one hoping it would work. They took my offer of $60.00. The case I used is from an "Ultimate" Submariner from Andrew. This is the one that several people have commented about having a conical/wokky rehaut. It does and it drove me crazy! I hated it. I never wore it so I thought it would be a good candidate for a fantasy dial swap. The good thing about the rehaut is it gives you a little more room for a smaller dial. The dial I removed from the Ultimate was about 28mm, the Tudor is 27mm and fit just fine. I did try it in a vintage cn Sub case and it was too small. This watch is awesome in my opinion. Most people don't know what a Tudor Hydronaut is anyway so when they look at it, they don't start with all that "is that a fake Rolex?" stuff. I believe they just assume it is some sort of Submariner'ish Tudor. Now here's my question. A guy on eBay has been running a listing warning people about fake vintage rose dial Tudor Submariners. Where can I get one? If nothing else, how about a 27.5mm replica/refinish dial to put in a 5513 replica. Please.....pretty please

I'll give you an answer in another thread.....kind of gets this thread going the wrong direction. I still need help with this if anybody knows. I have dial dots on the way but I still don't see much room to install them. Other ETA movements are nearly flat at the dial side. The 2836-2 appears to have some delicate parts at the dial surface.

When I wear a stainless band watch I like it loose enough that it flops a little but not loose enough to turn round the wrist. Recently I have found that a good NATO feels much more comfortable. I installed one on my UPO and it doesn't seem as heavy and bulky. There's something about the way a NATO feels that makes watches seem lighter.

Well it's been 6 months since I found this group and bought my first rep. Now I'm at that magical point when I look down and add up what I've spent and think "I could have bought a gen!". But I've had tons of fun with this hobby and I have learned alot. Visiting this site has become a daily routine. The RWG is full of information that has been very educational to me and I hope to learn more. I've been able to use some of the things I have learned from other hobbies in mod'ing reps. I also restore vintage cars, build military models and restore antique toy trucks. My next project is a 5513 Submariner rep that I plan on "vintaging" quite a bit. I plan on doing some dry brushing and airbrushing to the dial I have chosen, skills I have learned from model building. In the past, I have owned several Rolex and Omega watches (and they are the only reps I own..love'em) but now I have to admit, I knew very little about them. It's a wonder I never got screwed! I am also a member of a Rolex forum and knowing what I know now, some of the posts there are humorous. Many of those guys are spending thousands for gens and have no idea if they are gen of fake. I truely feel that if you want to know gens, you have to know reps. Ok, I'm rambling.....here's where I'm at with my rep purchases in 6 months: rep 1: Omega PO 42.5mm from Brand9ave. It came in with a damaged crystal (chipped on the inside). Sent it back. rep2: Omega UPO from Brand9ave. Replacement for the 42.5mm. Granted the logo has feet and the pearl isn't great, it is a nice and substantial watch. rep3: Rolex "Steve McQueen" Explorer II w/ asian movement from Trustytime. It didn't even work one day....threw it in the parts heap. rep4: Omega GMT with asian movement from Trustytime. Fell in love with this watch and invested in a gen SMP band. I wear it almost every day. rep5: Omega GMT with asian movement from Trustytime. Liked the first one so much, got a second one. Left the "speedy" band on this one. rep6: Rolex "Ultimate" Submariner from Trustytime. Got this one as a result of problems with the Explorer II. He gave me a huge discount but I hated the conical rehaut. Ended up putting a Tudor dial in it for a beater. rep7: Rolex 14060 nodate Submariner from Trustytime. Ordered it based on his pics....the watch I received was hidious so I sent it back. Totally misrepresented. rep8: Rolex "Steve McQueen" Explorer II w/ETA movement from Trustytime. Dead on arrival...sent it back. rep9: Rolex "Perfect" Sea-Dweller from Trustytime. Replacement for the Explorer II at a discount for the trouble. He didn't want to give me a refund and offered this watch. I don't really like Sea-Dwellers so I've never worn it. It looks pretty good I guess. At this point I chose to shop elsewhere for reps....to many problems with Trustytime. Yes, Andrew is nice. I just have no luck with his products and returns to China get expensive. rep10: Rolex "no crown guard" Submariner from Silix. I like the watch, but I had to install a NATO strap because the lugholes are drilled way to far in and a band will not stay on it good. The springbars were bent from the factory to get the band on. Still a cool watch for the price. rep11: Rolex 5517 Submariner from Silix. I've really had fun with this one. My first serious attempts at mods. rep12: Rolex "red" 1680 Submariner from Silix. A great ETA Sub for the money. Date mag is weak but it functions perfectly. Getting ready to start a few mods. rep13: Rolex 5517 Submariner from Silix. Liked the first one so much I got another one. I'm going to "vintage" this one a little more. I also now own a "amateur" selection of new and vintage watch tools I've aquired from eBay. I'm also massing quite a big scrap heap of parts, but it gives me something to do. The photography section has even inspired me to scrap my old 1.3mp camera and got a 6.0. Pug's tips in the photography area helped me take better pics Thanks to all who post here. Your posts are helpful to all of us wheather we work on them or just wear them

Dial dots are basicly tiny pieces of double sided tape. The ones I see on the bay' are 3mm round. I just don't see room on the 2836-2 ETA movement for these.

I recently swapped a Tudor dial to one of my Subs and all has been great till the other day. The dial I used had bent mounting tabs so I removed them and used a tiny bit of adhesive to secure the dial to the movement. Well after a few weeks of use, the dial slipped. I think it is because the adhesive I used was a hard dry adhesive and the bond broke loose. I really like this watch for a daily beater and I was wondering what the best method is for securing the dial? I'm sure this is the same situation that one runs into when swapping a dial in a MBW. I've heard dial dots are the way to go but I really don't see much room for application on the movement. Any ideas? Thanks in advance

My 30 gig just croaked too. It's completely dead. New battery.....no change. The USB connection won't even register to attempt a charge. I've read the support section at the iPod site and the nearest I can tell, they'll exchange it and the worst case is $129.95 out of pocket. I just have to deside if I should cut my losses ($349 new and $45.00 for the battery). The prices of new models have come down quite a bit and they are tempting.

Reps under $150.00 have been my starting point for several projects (and some of my favorites). The Omega GMT with asian movement. All I did was redrill the lugholes and install and gen. band. I wear this one daily: The Rolex 5517 Royal Navy Submariner. Shaved down the cgs a bit, removed the pearl, bleached insert, smoothed up the bezel and changed the strap: The coolest cheap watch I have, a vintage "no crown guard" Submariner from Silix. All I've done is swap the strap to a Bond NATO: The red 1680 Submariner from Silix. At $130.00 it is a pretty good starting point for a few mods:

I'm not even worried about correspondence from Silix. I order and just wait. I ordered 2 Subs last Saturday and they came today (pretty good for half way around the world). On the other hand my previous order took almost 2 weeks. I never worry. Nor do I worry about their products. Granted they are no MBWs but out of 5 watches purchased, not one problem.