GenTLe

Anyway, please don't open multiple posts on the same subject and identical content.

What about these? http://www.ebay.com/itm/20mm-New-Stainless-Steel-Polished-Watch-Bands-Buckle-Deployment-Clasp-BRE-/310818273316?pt=US_Watch_Bands&var=&hash=item8e14418d13

Thanks mate. I'll remember his name...

Hi speed, can you point me to who is this "Wiz" you're writing about?

Not an expert on Rollies. Just one advise always valid on reps: don't think that, since a watch looks a diving one, you can wear it at the pool or sea. Make it been water tested before to be safe...

Noob is a guarantee. Toro is good. Go for it

Any way surely this in not valid for Sellita movements.

What about a 224 special edition Firenze? Toro has them.

My lovely Black Bay on bomber strap

Someone has to do the guinea pig and send the watch straight to SSteel for service, so that he'll be able to properly check it and we'll then have some valid conclusion over it Hey hey... Why are you looking at me?? Eh???

LOL, good that I'm not a custom officer: I think my English isn't bad at all (especially considering middle age Italian people average English), and I HATE football (not that I like a lot of other sports either!) The fact is that here the official foreigner language taught in the schools was (pure useless) French, until 20 years ago... Funny thing: the custom declaration docs are still Italian and French (only) nowadays...

Ok, Will see then, and if so, let's do it again and practice The fact is that's really hard, even with the 20x loupe, to get if the microdrop of oil on the thin oiler effectively went on the stone or not. And if you can see a proper (still speaking about ~2mm) drop on the oiler, then surely it's too much... Ah, Mickey, what do you do with the reverse gears of the autowind bridge? These ones (27 & 28 var): I mean that in ETA charts they claims to avoid washing them and to replace if they're dirty. Since the asian ones comes with no oil from the beginning, there's not reason not to wash them (there's no risk to wash away the gen oil ). But how do you oil them later? I did this way: I washed them into a mixture of ~20ml of trichloroethylene (which is the base of many last rinse liquids) with 3 or 4 drops of (fresh) engine oil diluted inside. Then when the rinse was evaporated (less than 1 minute) I put a little drop of HP1300 in one of the holes of the gears. Not sure if it's a proper way...

I've the same one, a 10x + drawer and a 20x. They do their scenic design

Ah, and once the movement will be finished, what are the symptoms of an overoiling? Slow watch?

Well, effectively this Noob one looks better: http://www.torobravos2014.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=39_144&product_id=1115 But give a look at the price... And Andrew don't have noob's ones and once you've your QC pics it means already ordered...

I go for the ones I like, no matters the branding on the leather, and I avoid to spend more than 50/60$ for a strap. Eventually I search a branded rep clasp/buckle (i.e. here: http://stores.ebay.com/linamarket/Watch-Clasp-Buckle-/_i.html?_fsub=501570419&_sid=1043351479&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322 ). I.e. for the B&R I'm waiting a restock of the XL one crocodile here (the one that is coming has rubber strap and I want a leather one): http://www.bandrbands.com/index.aspx Other sources in that price range here: http://strappedfortime.com/shop/ (tested for my Tudor BlackBay) and http://www.bradystraps.com/Home_Page.php (waiting one for my BlancPain)

Mate, you're very very gentle, and I thanks you a lot. But i'm in Italy, and getting things from USA (you're from New York, aren't you?) it's always a PITA because of the customs...

Uhm... Found this. The end stone should be the 122.11, isn't it?

Thanks Rolexman, any advise from experienced like you are really appreciated!! May I ask you to give a look to the other topic I opened right now in this same area? I did the typical "niubbata" (Italianization that means "somthing only a newbie can do"). Thanks!!!!!

Ok, so during reassemble of this movement: http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/172196-my-first-movement-teardown/ I disassembled the balance bridge incabloc to oil it (note: the balance bridge in NOT the one in the picture of that thread, I used another balance assembly with a standard NOT novodiac incabloc). As perfect newbie I let the 2 parts (top flat jewel and perforated one with metal ring) around the movement I was assembling and so, while I was putting back the "perforated one" I have somehow taken with my sleeve the top flat jewel and... Well "puff", lost This one is the lost part (on the top there is a syringe needle for size comparison): Part of this bridge: On ETA charts it is declared in this way, and that "VAR" means that there are different type of it which goes in pair with different bridges... Now... On CousinsUK the 3024 part for ETA 2836-2 is declared this way: Inca 09.164.22.312 Cousins ref: INCA0916422312 (and it's part of a HUGE lost of incabloc https://www.cousinsuk.com/catalog/4/0/1967/3548.aspx?code=INCA0916422312#select ) Can anyone tell me if this is the correct part? Do you have experience in replacing these part of a Asian verion od the ETA 2836-2? Even better: out of this list of Inca end stones, do you know which one I should take (saving good money)? https://www.cousinsuk.com/catalog/watch-parts/inca/inca-end-stones @Rolexman @SSTEEL, any advice? Thanks A LOT, GenTLe

Better if you specify where you are...

Lovely and thinking about taking one of these (which, by the way, are from BP). Gen VS Rep:

Oh man, HOW MUCH I understand you... I went to the point that maybe I'm a tool-fetishist... Every time I enter in one of those places to get some bit/tap etc, I go home with 10x the expense I should have had...

Good one this of the plastic bag, have to find some transparent enough! So, in this episode I reinstalled the train gears and bridge and the winding bridge. 1) up the train gears! They run smoothly (the inertia is really low as they are very light) View My Video 2) winding bridge mechanism: A detail of the stop lever: The click and its spring that made me to pass some bad moments when it decided to fly away... Search and search and, in the end, it was still on the movement, just hidden between the train gears wheels... 3) winding bridge fully assembled. I'll have probably to remove it again as I noticed that there is probably a gear of the barrel that has some dirt or something inside that is making the wheels not to run properly fluently at one point.

CJ, i'm basically following completely the ETA oiling chart This eve I assembled the train gears and the winding bridge. Can't upload pictures now as I'm on EDGE connection right now and it'll take 1 hour or so . Ah... Had bad time when the bloody click spring flew away... I searched and searched and in the end it was just below one of the gears of the movement