GenTLe

Same here. Consider this has been elected "rep of the year" in RWI for 2013, and with good reasons

Have you thought to go for a different brand? I.e. give a look to this one: http://www.torobravos2014.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=18_49&product_id=931 Or this (but beware this model is with no AR coating on the glass): http://www.torobravos2014.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=75_150&product_id=1026 They're both classy but not too "old style".

Me too

Great suggestion Matt! The thread is still very good and now it's like this:

Good points guys. I'll limit its use to disassembled parts too (received the ultrasound cleaner last Friday)

For the very first purchase I'd suggest TrustyTime - http://www.ttw888.com (or eventually his twin PerfectClones -http://www.p-cls.com-) Between them I normally go for Trusty simply because I found Andrew friendly and the web site is much more usable - i.e. you can open multiple tabs and better check the products. I'm suggesting him (Andrew) because payment is easier (PayPal), QC pictures comprehend a timegrapher one, and communications/shipping are really fast. Also he offers custom seizure protection: meaning that if our custom will seize the watch and you have proof of it (normally in such situation the customs rlease a documentation about this) you'll have another shipping (paying again the shipping fee) or watch money refund. By the way, since you're noob, read this one before: http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/171237-what-are-the-rep-collecting-10-commandments/ Ciao, GenTLe

Ok, some news about this. Just consider that it will be my 1st reparation test, that I was ready to throw the case away, and that i'm used to work on things like these, that also require precision, but at a different scale respect to the watches: Yesterday morning I went to my ultra-specialized ironmongery shop and I bought a 2,5€ (3.4US$) 2,7mm cobalt drill bit and (!!!!!!!) 19,5€ (26.5US$) M3x0.3mm HSS tap. Luckily here in EU the metric ISO tools (even the unusual ones like this ISO fine thread ones) aren't difficult to find, if you know where to search for As I don't have a cristal/bezel press, and therefore I can't completely disassemble the case, I self created a system to keep the case in position under the vertical drilling machine without press on the crystal (basically 2 pieces of wood, with the front one with a hole large like the crystal, practically I did a watch case sandwich: The hole went easy and the threading too (this last done manually, slowly and using a good amount of machinery cutting oil). Then, when I was already happy of the result, I noticed that the hole (and thread) I did was not well aligned In the meantime I'm waiting for a couple (took 2 in case i'll destroy one, as I'm not skilled about the torque I should screw this parts) of tubes from cousinsUK: Just wondering if those 3-4° of misalignment will be enough to make the whole work useless, or if it is within the tolerances. Or if I could try to fix it for example filling the hole with some epoxy compound and re-drill/tap within the compound (this time straight!)... Any suggestion?

Well, better crazy watches than writing SMS/whatsapp messages to the ex GFs

...because this must be from some watch addicted like US

Hi rkh, greetings from Italy

Wow... Nearly the price of a Gen Laco...

I reply to my self, correct me if it's wrong. Looking this thread: http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/158953-blue-ceramic-sub-built-on-bp-case-attempt-2/ the gen tube will fit. Moreover the tube must be screwed to the case and not (like I was thinking) to the crown.

Hi guys, as from this thread: http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/171423-how-to-kill-a-watch-%C2%B0%C2%B0%C2%B0/ I broke the tube of a PVD coloured GMT Master II from BP. I've just seen that the BP tube (case side) is smaller than the gen, and I've already got a 2.7mm drill bit and a M3x0.35 tap, so that I can modify it to fit a rolex gen/compatible new tube. Now my question is: I've already checked that the 7mm crown of my BP GMT was using an A=4.35mm (see below) tube, but will the gen tube with A=4.35mm have the same thread type as the BP crown? Has anyone tried to screw a gen/compatible tube into a BP crown and can he confirm that it screws correctly? And, last but not least: my crown is complete of the stem and I'd like to avoid to remove the stem (I'm a beginner and I don't want to destroy it), how should I properly screw the tube into the crown making it stable (not prone to unscrew) but also not damaging the case part thread (like using pliers)? Thanks!!!! GenTLe

Well, maybe it's not a beauty, but this is indeed interesting (propeller connected to the counterweight with an RPM moltiplicator):

Also wealthy people can get drunk. Jacob Co created the watch for them too, when they're drunk and don't know how to trow away nearly 7000$ Other pictures here: http://www.deluxemovements.com/Watches-Jacob-and-Co/Grand/Jacob%20GR4-17/Jacob%20Co%20Grand%20GR4-17.htm

There's just some problems in this: the hands will not fit, you must change the stem in the crown, the movement spacers will be different etc... So it's not an easy task at all...

Uhm, I think you'll get an asian one with Eta marks... It's a BP Factory I suppose. I don't trust these "modified to..." Better stick to the standard clones.

Love it!!!! Does it run fine? Can you point me to the TD you purchased it? Tnx!

Uhm, it's odd. 2836 is ETA 3135 is Rolex They don't have anything to share, unless it's one of those "mess" of 2836 reshaped to appear like a Rolex 3135... I'd have gone for the classic A2836 (with no reshape)

Nope: it runs at 42kHz, DEFINITIVELY to much to make whatever part of metal to vibrate. Moreover it doesn't work "shaking" the parts: only the parts in contact with the water will be affected: the process use the so called "cavitation". From Wiki ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultrasonic_cleaning ): In an ultrasonic cleaner, the object to be cleaned is placed in a chamber containing a suitable solution (in an aqueous or organic solution, depending on the application). In aqueous cleaners, the chemical added is a surfactant (eg- laundry detergent) which breaks down the surface tension of the water base. An ultrasound generating transducer built into the chamber, or lowered into the fluid, produces ultrasonic waves in the fluid by changing size in concert with an electrical signal oscillating at ultrasonic frequency. This creates compression waves in the liquid of the tank which ‘tear’ the liquid apart, leaving behind many millions of microscopic ‘voids’ or ‘partial vacuum bubbles’ (cavitation). These bubbles collapse with enormous energy; temperatures and pressures on the order of 5,000 K and 20,000 lbs per square inch are achieved; however, they are so small that they do no more than clean and remove surface dirt and contaminants. The higher the frequency, the smaller the nodes between the cavitation points, which allows for cleaning of more intricate detail. I'd only be careful in presence of not rust-proof parts (i.e. the bracelet pins if not stainless): in this case I'd use ethanol or methanol instead of water as cleaning liquid.

Get one of these: http://www.amazon.co.uk/JPL-ULTRA-7050-Ultrasonic-Cleaner/dp/B001NETX5A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405061189&sr=8-1&keywords=JPL+7050

Thanks Man!! I'll try one... Maybe a cheap one for test

Looks like it's the opposite Fraggle: I managed to take out the part in the crown with zero problems, but that damn part inside the case instead...

Ok, watch opened and movement took out. I think a part of the complex crown/stem got broken and it's inside the hole (sorry for my poor technical English) of the watch:

I used a small (50 grams I think) hammer and an old micro screwdriver :-) But it hasn't been simple and I've a good handicraft capabilities...