Bansenshukai

The Zigmeister is the absolute best at this. He has quite a long history here as the premier watch expert and can do anything and everything from repairs to restoration to lume. I don't know much about Vac, but I own a Panerai that was lumed by him (I purchased from another member) and the watch is a torch. It's incredible. I have also used Ken Parks (Everest Watch Works) and he has done excellent work for me and he does not turn away reps. I have two watches that were done by Jack Alexyon (Industrial Watch Works) and they are also excellent. But, both watches were gens and I don't know how Jack feels about servicing reps. I hope this helps.

That cat has an unfair advantage; he gets to do it eight other times.

I believe they are celebrating the Chinese New Years and that goes on for like two weeks (wow!). I have two orders pending since a week ago and they have not even shipped yet. I believe that they will be sent out after the workers return after the New Years Celebration on the 23 of February.

Thanks, brother! You're a wealth of knowledge. This is quickly becoming the definitive thread on executing this particular modification. Thanks to all whom have contributed.

It looks fine to me. I'd never notice that you did a mod to your watch.

Ouch! Well, there's something else to consider. Part of me has me thinking that it is best to leave this alone until the moment I actually damage the bezel or something like that. I'll keep the "correct 10" bezel aside, just in case such a thing happens. My watch looks way too good for me to screw it up. On the other hand, I can always sell mine and get one with the mod already in place. Thing is, my clone movement is working extremely well and I'm happy with that as well.

Looks really good. I'm thinking that it is probably best to put masking tape on the bezel replacement (with the "correct 10") before sanding it. As far as the Gorilla Glue, it is good to also know that the glue tends to expand and thus, it is important to put far less than you think is actually necessary because it will expand and spread beyond the intended area. Besides, Gorilla Glue is really strong and does not require a large amount. I'm thinking of actually using the two part compound that "Locktite" sells for glueing metals. Two questions: 1) So, am I to understand that the bezel pearl on the original - incorrect bezel - is superior to that of the "correct 10" bezel? 2) What technique did you use to remove the incorrect bezel? Thanks for your tutorial!!! I think you are actually the first to post one on this particular mode with this specific watch.

Welcome aboard! I just read this same exact thread in the "General Discussions" sub-forum. Unless it was posted there by a moderator - and he forgot to delete this one - there is no need to double post to make a point around here. Post it once ... we'll get to read it; don't worry about that. Double posting is generally not well received around these parts. Take care, bro.

If you are going to continue in this replica hobby, you need to realize two key things: 1) Quality Control is minimal; 2) Drop Shipping is the most common method of shipping used. Both reasons go back to profit making. However, I'll add that you must first pick your "dealer" and then your "rep" (this is something I've learned from experience and from reading on this forum). Joshua is very good at making things right within reason. I purchased a watches from him - on and off - since late 2005. I think two of something like 20 watches came to me in a terrible state. The rest have been awesome. Ocassionally, I brag about the Yachtmaster and the DSSD (most current purchase) that I got from him that keep time to a COSC standard. Not bad for two watches that, had I purchased gens of, I would have spent about $16,000 USD combined. Instead, they cost me about $650, combined. So, that's not bad at all. Stick around, and read a lot. You'll learn what movements are most reliable and what reps are more accurate. Along the way, you'll teach us a few things about something you might be good at (your job, other hobbies, etc.). One last piece of advice: Never purchase something on impulse especially if it just came out and it's brand new in concept. Wait and read. Look for trends and patterns. There are a lot of experts on this site. I have part of other forums and, honestly, the knowledge I find in here is far more in depth than most (not all) of your "gen" forums. I am constantly learning here. Good luck in your rep hobby. Be well.

I could not agree more. In fact, I have wondered if the monolithic Officine Panerai has been holding someone's kid hostage. I mean, how hard is it to make a 1:1 case design from a Panerai. Is someone's child currently learning Italian by force? What gives?

I have both watches. The DSSD (the "Ultimate" version from Josh) and the Pam 00024 are both nice. But, honestly, unless you plan on modding the Pam to a great extent, I feel that the DSSD is heads and shoulders above the currently available Pam 00024 rep. Like someone else wrote elsewhere, if you do the "correc 10" mod on the DSSD, then "Bob's your uncle".

As I understand it, this guy is essentially "done" here or in any other forum we can locate him. He screwed himself by dealing in this way. Greed is a motherf@#$er, isn't it?

Human "Smart Bomb"

I've purchased the replacement "correct 10" bezel. But, I will not swap it for some time. For one thing, that discrepancy does not affect me that much and it will only be noticed if I actually hand the watch to someone who is actually looking for it. Realistically, unless I hang out with experts or enthusiasts in a social setting, no one will either notice nor care. Secondly, I don't know of many that have done the mod here. Eventually, someone will put up a tutorial and I will be able to see what I can expect during the process. I mean, my watch is currently working within COSC standards and I'm very happy with that. The lume is incredible and I can read it throughout the night - whenever I happen to wake up - which is nice. Except for that small discrepancy, my watch is really perfect. I don't want to do something impulsive and break something when I don't know what I'm doing just yet. Replacing the bezel on a "noobmariner" is one thing. But, I don't want to screw this one up. So, if - in the future - the bezel pearl happens to fall off, or I do some crazy damage to the "ceramic" bezel currently on the watch, I'll have the "correct 10" to replace it (once I sand it down to size, of course).

Several members of our team wore patches that said the same thing. But, they reserved wearing those for the direct action hits. Besides, if one were to be true to Wahabism, anyone not of their particular belief is considered a "Kafir" anyway. Never mind that one is also engaging them in a firefight. Great straps, brother!!! Awesome.

This is an incredible rep! Thanks to Lanikai for his awesome review. My DSSD came in a week ago and has the Asian Clone 3135 movement. The watch has maintained a time loss of 5 seconds per 24 hour period - as per the Atomic Clock. I have put it through its paces and I have worn it for nearly everything including my work outs. This watch has covered at least 24 miles of running in the last week alone and it still maintains the same 5 second loss. I'm truly amazed. From the posts I had read in the past about this movement, I expected to tear the thing apart with so much activity. I have not done so thus far. I'm very satisfied with it. I'm going to get the bezel replacemente with the "Correct 10" very soon. I'm just a bit hesistant to mess with the bezel removal until I see a pictorial/instrucion as to how to do it from one of the masters on the forum. Lani, thanks for an awesome topic (like always)!

A friend of mine is highly interested in a Rolex rep. He collects watches and has an impressive collection of gens to include Rolex GMT and Zenith Defy, along with about two Omegas. He has a budget of $500 to purchase a Rolex rep. What would be the most "true to the gen" Rolex rep out there now? It does not have to be a Submariner, or anything complicated. It just has to look real good. PS - I'm assuming that he will send it for lume after receiving it. Thanks for your input.

Ronin, as always, you make an excellent point. I have owned gens and reps of both Omega and Rolex. My gens are Omega Seamaster mid-size, Quartz; Omega Seamaster Professional Automatic; Rolex Submariner; Rolex Explorer II; Tissot Lelocle Chronograph; Seikos (and a few Invicta Reserves that - in my opinion - are as good as any rep, or worse). My first eye opening experience with reps was my purchase of a Rolex Yachtmaster Rolesium from Josh back in 2005. Not only was it very beautiful, but the darn thing has been in the ocean with me as well as the swimming pool and, as upsetting as it may be, it keeps COSC time since 2005 until now along with my gen Rolex Explorer II and my gen Rolex Submariner (of which I also have the "noobmariner" rep version). That had me scratching my head as to why I spent the extra $4500 on the Explorer II when my rep Yachtmaster keeps up just the same. Ok, the lume was not that good. But, I sent it to Kent Parks (recently) and the darn thing lights up like a torch with C3 Superlume. I stopped buying gens for a long time after that. I only purchased a few reps, but from long-time members of the this forum. Then, I went to a Rolex AD and saw the Rolex Deepsea Seadweller and fell in love with it. Again, I figured I'd have to sell a few of my gens to get that $9000 watch. Well, then I decided to purchase Josh's "Ultimate" version and it came in last week. You want to know how many seconds it's loosing per day? 5 seconds! That's what my gen Rolex Submariner looses. Now, this is the crazy thing: My gen Rolex Sub - used - cost me nearly $5000. My new rep DSSD cost me about $400, including shipping. The lume on the DSSD is good enough that I have literally awakened at 0400, looked at my watch and could actually tell the time with no issues. That's just crazy! So, knowing that I can always find a number of certified horologists that will work on reps (Kent Parks being one; but, The Zigmeister being the master), I know that maintenance on my rep will be far cheaper than on the gen. Also, I doubt, seriously that I'll ever challenge the max depth rating of any of my watches, rep or gen. Heck, 30 - 50 meters is good enough for me. In fact, my unit's combat divers seldom swim deeper than 50m for any reason. Salvage divers is another story. So, I came to the conclusion that I'll keep my gens and I will cherish them. But, my collection will only grow with carefully selected super reps. I just don't see any practical reason to spend thousands on a watch that will meet the same personal requirements as my reps and tell the time just as accurately. Now, if quality of worksmanship is the issue and peace-of-mind in that area is paramount for some, then the premium of paying thousands more is certainly justified. With me, the performance of that amazing Yachtmaster rep just changed my mind for me.

Awesome! Very well done.

I have similar feelings about the matter regarding Josh's exceptional customer service. But, one thing has stood out to me as of late: I've been dealing with Josh since 2005. But, I swear that whenever I get e-mails from him now, it's like it's someone else. I mean, the way he expresses himself, his domination of the English language on e-mails, all that stuff was very different in 2005. Weird. It does not bother me. But, sometimes I thing "Josh" is several people working in concert ... and they do a great job!

This is probably a silly question, but is the crown on the Rolex "crown" always line up generally up and down so that the crown points are pointing up (towards the watch crystal) when fully screwed in? I'm asking because I got the Rolex DSSD from Josh and it is actually sideways. But, my gen Explorer II has a similar issue. It never bothered me with my gen Explorer II, but I never really gave it much consideration. Now, looking at the rep DSSD, I wonder if it's supposed to be straight at all, or if it varies. Thanks.

I have to agree that Josh does make a good effort to be upfront and fair. I have heard a few horror stories, but those situations have never happened to me with Josh. He has delivered, time and again, and has done the right thing when necessary. It makes sense, though. Think about it: If you sell using among the most expensive prices for a product that some others can also deliver for less, how can you stand out if not with great customer service. I prefer to use Josh, even if it costs a bit more. Although, I prefer to trade with established members most of the time; if, I'm getting a new rep, I go with Josh. He has not disappointed me thus far.

You know, Lani, I have two of these watches from the time Josh carried them circa 2006. Except, although the movements are actual Swiss Unitas, the plates are wrong - not the Swan Neck type like the one you have here. I never, ever wear them, I've just used their straps for my two other Pam reps. These are actual titanium cases, but the appearance through the display case back was incorrect. Now, I have no idea what to do with them. Do you know anyone that could use them? I want to sell both of them - for cheap, since they are incorrect - but I have no frame of reference. What's your opinion? Thanks, brother.

I think that the spacing between the subdials and the 3 and 9 o'clock hour markers is off. My understanding (or misunderstanding) is that the length of the hour markers should all be the same, even those by the subdials. So, I'd say, fake, unless this is a model where what I just wrote above does not apply.

The combat divers in my unit have a preference for Omega dive watches. But, sunto gets a lot of play too ... because it's issued.