earnout

Avit, thank you for the much welcomed perspective. Goodness knows I could use it. When I first starting reading the boards just a few months ago I just wanted to find a decent daily beater GMT II. That was it. A few days after I took delivery of the GMT II, the DRSDs started getting my attention too, maybe even a Great White for good measure. Then I bought the MBW DRSD and intended to just do a few simple mods for fun. Now I've made a full blown list in Excel of my desired mods with prices and sources, and now I catch myself studying members' posts on how to swap in a gen 1570 movement, while simultaneously toggling between eBay and Timezone trolling for gen movements. I now know about tritium versus luminox, fat spring bars, pointy crown guards, hollow mid links versus solid (thanks Stephane by the way -- great post), pearls with the silver band versus without ---- STOP..... What's happening to me??

Just wanted to share some impressions of the MBW DRDS I recently purchased from Paso. The transaction was flawless, and I received my watch all the way to the States within a week -- thank you Paul! I

Thank you very much! This is what I've come to love about RWG and TRC -- the abundance of collective knowledge and the generous exchange between its members. In less than 12 hours you've answered all my questions, and covered topics I wasn't knowledgeable enough to even know to ask. I'm hoping when my project is complete I'll have picked up a few nuggets of learning that I'll be able to share as well. Best regards.

Hi. I'm planning my list of mods for my new MBW 1665 DRDS (courtesy of Paso by the way, a flawless transaction and swift delivery to California -- thanks Paul!). I've poured over members reviews of their own modded DRSD's, and I've noticed some members have listed the addition of a "slow beat" movement. I'd very much appreciate a little enlightenment from the experts here on this. 1) Why do this at all? I believe I read somewhere that the second hand on a stock MBW DRSD movement operates at 8 beats /sec, but the "slow beat" movement is more like 5 beats/ sec. Is this the only reason? Is the second hand on the stock movement just too smooth for an authentic DRDS and therefore a clear tell? (BTW, Paul informs me that my stock MBW DRSD came either with an ETA-2836-2 or ETA-2846-2, but I don't have a case opener of my own to confirm which one I have exactly). 2) Which "slow beat" movement should I get if I want to perform this mod? I've seen discussion of the ETA 2879, but would appreciate confirmation. 3) Will this movement simply drop into my MBW DRSD, or are there other changes I'll need to be aware of (movement spacers? need to replacement hands, alignment with date window, correctness of stock date wheel, need to swap date wheel from stock movement?, etc, etc) 4) Lastly, where can I get one? :-) Have a ballpark estimate of how much I can expect to spend? Many thanks!

Stephane -- What a terrific post. Thanks so much. You left nothing to the imagination. I feel like really understand the difference between these two bracelets. Thanks!

Great advice all. Thank you for the suggestions. For the record, I'd like to contribute another great suggestion I received from "Vmena" on TRC (which he cites is based on a post on RGW1 by watchwatcher2). (I hope neither of you mind. ). I followed his advice TO THE LETTER and I'm happy to report that it really helped. My bracelet is not only more comfortable, but it also lost most of that shrill tinny sound that was driving me crazy. I've reproduced the instructions here for everyone's future reference, but if you're interested his original post can be found here: http://www.replicacollector.com/members/in...showtopic=31584. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Oyster and jubilee bracelets are very flimsy, no matter gen or rep. You say you can distinguish them by the "feeling" and noise. Yes and not. There are some aftermarket bracelets very close to gen, but the level of enhancement doesn't worth the price. I use a method copied from an old post in RGW1 by watchwatcher2 that I reproduce below (hope ww2 doesn't care), and believe me it works: QUOTE "When you first get the sub, the bracelet will rattle and feel a bit flimsy. Here's what you need to do. 1. remove bracelet, put on rubber gloves. 2. take some auto polishing compound and a dremel tool with round felt head and smooth down the inside of the bracelet, particularly near the edges where it may feel sharp or rub against your wrist. 3. take the same compound and work it into the links, then hold two links at a time and work them back and forth a bit. 4. after you've worked over the entire bracelet, focusing on the inside and sharp edges, take a toothbrush and dishwashing soap and go over it link by link washing off the compound. 5. next take a fine s/s polish, i use simichrome, and with a soft cloth work it over the exterior of the bracelet and sides, as you work the polish in with the cloth, the cloth will turn black... that is not dirt, but actually oxidation of a very fine layer of s/s. the simichrome is very s/s friendly, so you can polish for quite a while if you want and not damage the s/s. 6. toothbrush and liquid soap again. 7. when clean and dry, spray down the bracelet with wd-40, work the links back and forth, put the bracelet in a ziplock bag, spray more wd-40 on it and close the bag. let it set for 30minutes. 8. liquid soap--suds up the bracelet and rinse, dry with soft towel You now will have a very soft, very decent bracelet, which no longer sounds the the klinker you started with and actually feels very much like a real one." By my experience, you can skip using a dremel if you have patience and a strong hand... One more tip: in the hollow end links bracelets you have to adjust the end links because one of the main reasons of "sounding" is that they come very open (like a mouth) and you have to close them a bit. Try this and you will be surprised... but remember, you get what you pay for, so cheap reps and some time expensive also come with very poor bracelets. Homer sells very good quality ones. Try them but also give them this treatment. You won't repent.

Greetings. I

Heywood -- This is a terrific help. Thank you. For what it's worth, I also stumbled across another dial refinishing company, Kirk Rich Dial Corporation (http://www.krdial.com/index.htm). I can't vouch for them, but they're apparently one of (if not the) largest dial refinishers in the United States. They claim to have the "the largest collection of original plates in the United States."

All, Correct me if I'm wrong (VERY likely BTW -- I'm a noob through and through), but that looks like a very decent dial, no? Experts, any thoughts? Thx, Chris

Has anyone ever bought a "professionally refinished" dial from these folks: ND Trading Corp (http://stores.ebay.com/NDTradingCorp). It appears they're at least starting with genuine dials -- it says Singer on the back anyway. I was particularly interested in their DRSD dial @ $350. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...A:IT&ih=007. Yes, there appears to be a streak of white paint across the "610m" but I can't tell if it's just the picture or not. Also, does anyone have suggestions on other dealers who sell excellent quality vintage dials, as-is and/or refinished? Many many thanks!

Greetings. I'm to the board, but I'll confess I've been absorbing many of your posts for the last couple days. A week ago I was digesting the idea of plunking down close to a grand at idealwatches.com. Due to sheer dumb luck I stumbled across this board and now I feel like I'm auditing a course on the subject of reps. As for me, I'm about to buy my first gen GMT II (a watch I've craved for 10 years or more), and I'd like to get a respectable rep as my "stunt" watch. I've got two small boys and we get into all kinds of trouble together. I'm not ready to ding a gen just yet. By-Tor, thanks very much for the collection of GMT II posts you've done. They're really helping a newbie like me to get a lay of the land. elprimerozen, you mentioned that you purchased your CN from Josh. Your watch looks outstanding to my novice eye. Could you please clarify the SKU of the model you ordered from this page?: http://www.perfectclones88.com/rolex-master-c-55_69.html. How long ago did you buy it? tonyp1's comment that he received a totally different version from Josh is a little disheartening. Perhaps the variation is due to a different SKU? Josh has a lot of different models to choose from. Until reading this post today I was leaning toward buying a watch from PT. The glowing feedback at this post, http://www.replicacollector.com/members/in...showtopic=29970, had me sold. Now I'm not so sure. Does anyone have any advice to offer regarding PT vs. Josh? Many thanks. (I'm afraid of where this budding obsession is going to take me -- already contemplating a DRSD).