watchnutz

Whats the replacement movement for this watch and where would I find it? I looked inside I saw a broken tooth on a reduction wheel or a ratchet wheel (dont know which is which) But also the balance spring seems tightly wound. The other option is service, however I'm on long island, and haven't a clue where I'd be able to bring my movement in for service, the movement is an ETA clone, its actually jeweled and super clean on the inside, despite the broken tooth, and other unknown problems deeper down.

just to clear up what I felt with the rotor.... I felt it rapidly unwinding out of the blue. Felt like the spring was pushing the rotor and made it fly around a few times, felt like a vibrate alert lol. It was doing that for a few days.

Ok so my SD 4000 ceramic 116600 just stopped working out of the blue, I've been noticing that the rotor has been acting weird the past 2 days and today no more ticking. I can manually wind it but nothing happens, I can shake the watch and hear the rotor going around, but nothing happens. I feel the spring getting tighter as I hand wind it, but no love. Wondering what should I do, I was thinking to just buy a new replacement movement and be done with it, i figured having this movement repaired isn't going to be any better/worse than buying a new one no? Any help / ideas would help, thanks! I've had this watch for a little over a year now.

Pm sent

Thanks, things worked after another day and had no issues, the money went out and worked fine. But thanks for the heads up anyway

should I ask for rehaut pic? Is there something known to be off about them on this model that I should look for?

ok so here are my qc pics of a 116600. The only thing i noticed were these 2 black marks on the site of the bracelet, not sure if they are from reflections or not so I'm going to send an email to double check that. The other thing I noticed was the bracelet end link fittings look a little loose. Can anyone tell me if thats acceptable and anything else that stands out?

Well the thing is you're making assumptions. And that's my point. Not everyone sees things the same way. Heck I've been burned by people I've known for years that I trusted. If anything proof and documenting any sale is important practice. Even with friends. It's just good business. To each his own.

Playing devils advocate here but... It really is just your word against his. If you had a problem you should document it photography wise, as well as email with a detail of exactly whats wrong. The fact that you didn't get a response from him before the repair means you took it upon your responsibility to accept those charges. He might have been willing to do a refund in full if you weren't happy... On top of that, people do have lives and make mistakes, the reason for his late email could have been a number of things, but also how long was his "longer than average" email response? Are we talking a week? or are we talking 3 weeks? Either way honestly thinking of it as a judge not a watch buddy... You should have waited till you heard back from the seller or demanded a refund or coverage BEFORE investing any money into the watch. Once you did that, you took the responsibility upon yourself. The fact that you didn't get an invoice for the repair is also quite suspicious... Why wouldn't you get a copy of that? Why can't you contact them and have them write it up again if you had lost an original? I don't mean to come off defending one or another, but flat out... You should have done all of those things properly before assuming the cost. From the other view, you got the watch, damaged it upon wearing it the first few days, didn't realize it, then when you did you blamed it on the seller who was out of the state on business or whatever the reason for his late response. Then you could have done the repair or mod yourself or from an nu-reputible watchmaker who maybe also caused the damage.... You see where I'm going from here? Just because someone doesn't have a lot of sales, doesn't automatically makes them a bad guy, every reputable person starts out with their first few sales. In the end, you didn't document anything at all to prove what was wrong, how it arrived in photos, or even gotten proof of anything repair or damage or cost wise... I would chock up the fees to learning a lesson vs. chewing the guy out for something that could not be proven. He doesn't know you, and you don't know him, there is no reason to have trust on either end without proof. And sadly without proof, you just have an argument. Thats my 2 bits.

the thing is, I spoke to my bank, its a debit card, and they have no blocks from the payment, they said its on intimes end to accept the payment now. It was already authorized. which is why Im trying to figure out whats happening.

Ok thanks for the reassurance. I guess it's a waiting game now. I just wish I got a reply back, I get a quick response when asking info, but then nothing once I give my order number to him. The problem is when I got the original message, I waited a day and nothing updated. So I re-ordered the same watch again, making sure the card numbers were correct. I sent him a message to cancel the first order since according to them "the payment didnt go through". The new order then got the same message... With no email responses it just worried me to whats going on. I just really don't like that cut and paste message, very misleading. I know its a shady business, but I figured the TD's didn't mess around like that.

Ok thanks, yeah I'm just going by what I've heard from someone else. I'm new to using intime, so im just a little on edge, the message I received was clearly not real as they never attempted to charge my card, so that's a bit off putting already. I know they are a TD, but I never experienced that before... I've used others and the process was smooth, maybe not super fast, but I was never told there was a problem with my card or not given the proper information when dealing with payment.

It wasn't paypal, it was mastercard, I contacted him both through here and through the site, I haven't had any reply yet as to what happened. I see the charge is on my card being processed now, but havent heard anything from him yet. I heard from others they got their QC photos right after payment, but maybe that was using other methods. I guess we'll see

Ok so I placed an order yesterday for a V2 116600 on intime.co and I got this cut and paste message a little while after: "We are sorry but your payment did not go through successfully. Please let us know what you think about Moneygram (8% discount ) or Bank wire with 5% discount off the total amount. We can also offer Paypal for customers with well-established accounts on RWI/RG (in case you choose Paypal, please provide your forum ID). NOTE: Please note that in some cases we receive the payment with a little delay: like in the next 24 hours. So before you respond with your alternative method chosen, we highly advise that you wait for 24 hours. If the status of your order has not changed to 'Credit card payment received' by then, we can safely assume that it is not successful. Regards Intime Payment Dept." I checked with my bank and there was no attempt to process my card from anyone. So I thought maybe I entered the wrong card info. Today I placed an order again, making very sure that I entered in all the correct info. About an hour later I get the EXACT same cut and paste message... I check and there is NO attempt to process my card from my bank... So what gives? What this feels like is they are by default sending this out making you think you must have to pay with moneygram or bank wire, but no one ever processed my original card. Is this something that has happened to anyone else on here? I'm trying to see if this is legit or basically a way to trick people into sending a less secure way of payment. When I contacted them I just get the same cut and paste reply, no other information. I've bought from other TD's before, but this is my first time with intime.co .... Any help would be appreciated. I've heard nothing but good things about intime, so I'm wondering whats going on and if this is normal for him, or theres something else wrong?

file for a return, not acceptable if it wasnt mentioned in the listing.

So im looking at picking up a 116600, I found one here: http://www.ttw8488.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_8&products_id=12226 Just wondering what better movements fit into these? Anyone have a clue? Ideally down the road I'd like to fit a trust worthy ETA or Japanese movement that will keep good time. I honestly don't trust any of the "better or swiss" movements that come from china for extra money. I'd rather buy the cheap version and update to a better movement later that I KNOW is a good movement. Whats a decent replacement for the Asian 2813 movement that comes in this? Thanks guys!

I was asking about the bezel, not the bezel insert. Two very different parts. Trying to find out if the rotating bezel assembly is able to be replaced with a gen spec bezel.

Trying to see if anyone here knows or has added a gen spec bezel to this case? The case has decent crown guards, but that bezel shape and cut is just bad, hoping that I can just swap it out for a good replacement bezel and insert. Any clues guys? Thanks!

Guys can you please post the INFO for these watches, not just photos, as per the original posts rules/request. It greatly helps people and eliminates questions being asked back and forth.

Where did you order that from?? details?? I'm in the market for a 1675, if any of you are looking to sell, feel free to PM me!

excellent, I was trying to find this but couldn't with the search. I've been having problems with the search bar returning no results as well, not sure if its my browser

Thanks so much for the super detailed reply! I was referring to the coin edge being incorrect on some out of the box options (seems to just be a sub bezel vs a gmt one). I've got a lot of research to do, I've got 15 tabs open on my browser checking out all kinds of options. The most important thing to me is dial, bezel and bezel insert (which I'll most likely put a gen in) and crown guard shape. The case thickness doesn't really bother me as much. If it looks right from the top down, im satisfied. I don't think I'd ever go gen movement, by then I would just save up and go gen if spending that kinda money. I'm looking to do a budget build and mod as I go. Maybe $300-350 to start, and then I'll add on later. Dials seem very good from yuki, though I can't seem to find any 1675 dials with ETA feet.... Which will definitely be my movement. Quick side note, whats the deal with buying a gen dial and cutting off the feet/moving feet.... is this done a lot, any troubles? the hardest thing seems to be finding out the width of the dial vs. width of the case for the dial.....

Thanks for the info, I'm having trouble trying to find where to purchase a cartel 1655, any pointers as to good options for a source?

So I guess, besides just waiting a while, whats the next best/worst option? I'm looking to do this within the next few weeks hopefully. The case doesn't have to be perfect, just enough to not stand out too much...

So im slightly noobish to replicas, I've owned a lot of gen stuff and still have some.... With that said I'd like to start making my own 1675 gmt. My most expensive gens are all within the 2000 usd and under mark so springing for 3/4 times that is just not in my balls. Anyway I'd love to know where to get a decent out of the box 1675 to start with and grow, possibly adding a gen dial and insert along the way. Is there a go to dealer for GMT's? This is a vintage build and I have no interest in modern gmt builds. Ideally I'd like something that i can enjoy right away and mod as time goes by. The one thing it must have is proper bezel coin edge, as i see a few places have decent dials but bezel cuts are all wrong. secondly would be decent dial, nothing fantastic but pre-aged yellowness would be lovely and eliminate some hard work. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated. thanks! Looking to make something very similar to these blueburys: