Jump to content
When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission.

SuperHero

Member
  • Posts

    78
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by SuperHero

  1. So perhaps the route is to fine tune the existing case with the Cartel or buy cases that are as good as possible and have someone outside finish them all at the same time for consistency. PLUS! We could create a parts list in order to create the desired look. Specifically, the bezel assembly, crown and tube. Crystals and inserts vary...

    The lugs and crown guards seem to be the big issue and the inside case for a 26mm dial versus 29mm.

    Just some thoughts...

    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  2. i'd say 5513. its the most versatile and everyone loves a vintage sub

    a 5513 can be a:

    5513

    5512

    5514 with valve drilled

    tudor subs

    slim mid case for a 1665 w/valve drilled

    and a 1680 in capable hands

    Agreed.

    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  3. I'd start with the model that is the most popular and then an accessible case. Even if we found a gen. case, if there isn't a demand for it, it's not worth it.

    Opinions will be divided!

    5513 for me.

    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  4. Rolex made titanium cases?

    Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk

    LOL...no. In past few years, I keep thinking how cool it would be to have a sub in Titanium. Love my Pelagos and thought a Ti case would make a wicked mil-sub.

    Figured I'd ask...

    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  5. So spoke to Chris. If we can arrange a gen case, for him to scan and take all the measurements, he can produce these cases using a cnc machine. The case will not be damaged and obviously returned to the owner

    Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk

    Could he do one in titanium? Dream build for me....

    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  6. Kick ass comparo Kime and thanks to everyone else who shared as well. Love it and a really great post.

    I always thought it would be neat to have an excel spreadsheet with all the different parts, their sizes, what fits (eg bezel inserts, movement stem height vs case/crystal), etc...to know what you could build based on what you've got. Then you could essentially pick pieces and simply build Or trade with others to help out. It's never perfect but...might make it easier for those starting out. If you're creating a version of an original, maybe the mix and match isn't as important but it would a neat item to have.

    Again, awesome post and very helpful. Cheers.

    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  7. Thanks !

    I retouched dials again to reach better details.

    There is a gap because I don't print decals at the dials size for the 6538 and 6610. If I print at 29mm, the train is too close from the rehaut and "SWISS" is hidden.

    At 28.5mm print size, the edge I hidden by the rehaut and SWISS is clearly visible. And the minutes hands are closer from the markers.

    Got it. Thought you were using smaller dials but if the plate is 29mm, makes sense. Impressive stuff and e updates are great!

×
×
  • Create New...
Please Sign In or Sign Up