pompompurin

For quick and simple solution, I recommend using the Korean 16200 case. They can accept gen parts, including 3135 movement: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/403887010101 For adventurous solution, I reshape Rafflesdial 2824-2 Datejust 36mm case, increase the rehaut diameter, make custom movement ring and tabs, mill the caseback, and shoehorn a 3135 movement into it.

Have you checked these? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234857548399 IMO, the above ones are even better because 1. the seconds hand is much more accurate to the genuine (e.g., the seconds hand's tip is tapered and the end circle is not as big as the middle circle) 2. the proportion of the black colour on the hour/ minute is much more accurate to genuine By the way, i really enjoyed your thread about genuine 1575 GMT movements vs conversion ones. Thank you for sharing. I am still looking for a conversion kit for my 1560 movement, but I was quoted 1k USD for a Vietnam conversion kit which is out of my budget.

SH3135 movement

https://puretimewatch.io/datejust-41-126334-diwf-1-1-best-edition-904l-steel-tiffany-blue-dial-arabic-marker-on-jubilee-bracelet-sa3235.html But the SA3235 movement is trash, and the overall quality isn't the best when compared to other factories. However, this appears to be the only factory that offers Datejust 41 with a tiffany blue dial. Bear in mind that the genuine Datejust 41 does not come with tiffany blue dial (as of now).

Then the case tap sizes are the same

I just checked it for you. 7030 tube and athaya 702 crown are not compatible with each other. I could barely screw the crown in.

I don't have pictures of those particular cases. It is something that I heard before from other watch enthusiasts.

In my opinion for 1500 builds, fitting a 2836-2 or 2846 (lowbeat equivalent of the 2836-2) is easier than to fit a 2824-2. This is because the 2836-2/2846 has a closer crown/stem/tube height to a gen 1500 / 15000 case, so it is less finicky to fit. On top of that, I recommend using the Helenarou movement ring (https://www.helenarou.com/eta-adapter-for-genuine-or-clone-rolex-5512-5515512551355141680.html) with the 1500 case. You might need to sand the inner and outer diameter of the movement ring to ensure a nicer/ snug fit. Furthermore, here are the advantages of 2836-2/2846 movement: - 2836-2/ 2846 movements have quick date flips at midnight like gen, unlike the 2824-2 where the date flips are gradual. - 2836/ 2846 comes with taller H3 (or sometimes H4) cannon pinion and seconds wheel, which makes the hands clearing the dial easier For your motivation, here is my superfranken 1500: - Gen everything (including the 7835 bracelet and hands) - Modified ETA 2846 lowbeat movement (to fit gen hands and to remove the quick-set date function, like gen 1570 movement) - Cartel open 6/9 DWO - Modified Helenarou movement ring

That is bloody cheap... I could buy them in bulks of a hundred to build franken movements and franken watches. Balance complete for USD 160?!? Combine that with a gen 3135 mainplate (probably equally as cheap and not as hard as now to obtain) and the internals of a VSF 3135.. and you are good to go

1. Buy a 21j or 2836 bp or JKF (cartel) 5513 / 1680 / 1665 from the TD. Let the TD know you want it with an oyster bracelet with hollow middle links (like gen). 2. Check the QC pics to make sure you have a sub-looking oyster bracelet with hollow middle links. Don't worry about the clasp stamping (it can sometimes come with incorrectly stamped 93160 / 93250.. as long as it looks like a 93150, then it will function well) 3. Sell the head and keep the bracelet 4. (optional but highly recommended) buy better hollow end links for the 93150 bracelet. The stock 580 end links that i have handled before are absolutely trash and nowhere looking/ fitting like gen. From my experience, Mary 93150 is the same as bp or JKF (cartel) 5513 / 1680 / 1665 bracelet.

The lowbeat ETA 2846 and hightbeat ETA 2836-2 can fit gen-spec 1570 movement cavities. Additionally, I recommend using the Helenarou movement ring with those movements. You might have to sand the inner and outer diameter of the Helenarou movement ring to make it fit well. https://www.helenarou.com/eta-adapter-for-genuine-or-clone-rolex-5512-5515512551355141680.html I have installed ETA 2846 into many Ruby 1680 cases before. None of them have been a problem,

118206 Day-Date

In my opinion, some cases like JKF (cartel) cannot fool the finest experts, even after extensive reshaping/ lathe work, because their bloody crown/ stem/ tube height is off! It is a fatal flaw that is not acceptable within gen-spec parameters of the gen world. e.g., JKF (cartel) 5513, 1680, 5512, 1665, st19 daytona cases all have the wrong crown/ stem/ tube height. Furthermore, the JKF (cartel) 1675 cases have the wrong crown size to begin with causing too much crownguard material to be removed: therefore, this fatal flaw is impossible/ too hard to also correct. But a modified Vietnam case... that is another level and story. I have heard stories before where extensively modified Vietnam cases were able to pass RSC inspection.

The latest batch of arf 16610 is amazing and IMO much better than a TC v7x overall. They improved the stock hands significantly which looks much closer to gen now. However, a movement swap to VR3135 is recommended to swap out the stock ARF SH3135 movements' bold/wrong fonts (and there is no guarantee that the stock SH3135's calendar plate can take gen-spec or better date discs after modification)

I think a lot of people underestimate the seriousness of pitting in an expensive gen, especially for a vintage piece that has collector's value. As pitting is localized corrosion which creates areas with small holes, the structural integrity of the watch and its water resistance could worsen further if preventative measures aren't taken. I guess this is one of the main reasons why Rolex switched to 904L after years of observation. However, not even 904L is 100% corrosion proof.

Making a 3135 fit inside a Raffles 2824-2 case was hell, but worthwhile.

by the way, Raffles 501b is highly recommended by me. I have them on my Startime 3035 16800 superfranken http://rafflesdials.com/one-pair-of-501b-steel-all-brushed-20mm-end-pieces-for-vintage-rolex-explorer-36mm-oyster-watch-band-bracelet-and-fat-spring-bars-in-2-0mm/

By the way, i managed to reshape, polish, and sharpen those raffles time ETA hands: https://forum.replica-watch.info/forum/rolex-tudor-replicas/9131259-pompompurin-s-chasing-ocd-who-has-the-best-eta-submariner-hands

yes it will take a gen dial if it has a sa4130 movement

i just compared my rafflestime hands to my JF 16610 hands (and i previously compared the JF 16610 hands to gen hands when i had access to gen hands). IMO, rafflestime ETA sub hands are the closest accessible ETA hands set to gen - even closer than HR hands by far. Apart from very minor flaws, the length and proportion is matching, and it definitely looks the part.

If i have to use sub hands for a build, i either use gen (with gen movement) or TC hour hand or Vietnam hour hand + HR minute hand + ETA 116610 seconds hand (which has a slightly longer tapered front; therefore, it is good for building certain periods of 1016). IMO, Clark, Yuki, stock cartel, and Startime sub hands look nothing like gen. I don't understand the praise about them haha. I would say HR's sub hands is the better one, but far from perfect. If you are dying for something quick, Rafflestime (not rafflesdial) sub hands look quite nice: they look like they have the right proportions and they are cut very nicely: Rafflestime minute hand measures 12.5mm from centre to tip.

Gen is the best for hands, IMO no compromise. If your gen service dial is the "SWISS" superluminova variant, then suck up the cost and buy the gen service hands. If your gen service dial is the tritium variant, you could buy gen service hands and have them re-lumed to match your dial. Gen service hands are supposed to be relatively affordable, compared to the original vintage ones. Also, second hand service hands are even more affordable. Trust me, i've been through searching for the best sub hands and concluded that gen hands are miles ahead better.

You can make a 2824-2 or 2836-2 or 2846 movement in to a no-date movement by simply replacing the combined setting lever to the one used in an ETA 2840. Buy a broken ETA 2840 (or a swatch watch with ETA 2840) and extract that combined setting lever

I have the same problem as you do, when it comes to sourcing the correct case for a vintage rolex build. Cartel cases aren't great and their incorrect crown/ stem/ tube height drives me nuts. Their thickness and slightly weird case geometry makes reshaping a pain in the ass for me. Not to mention, cartel hasn't been innovating or improving much during all these years. Since Vietnam cases have the monopoly for the better vintage rolex cases, i have to suck it up and pay $$$ unfortunately. But it saves me so much time to make the case more accurate to gen, compared to buying a cartel rep.