pompompurin

Raffles sell this tudor caseback (http://rafflesdials.com/steel-case-back-for-vintage-style-of-40mm-rolex-or-tudor-submariner-watch-case/) and it looks like the ones that are used in JKF (cartel) tudor subs. I think this raffles caseback should fit a cartel sub because someone said that JKF reuses the same rolex sub cases for their tudor subs. If the raffles tudor caseback fits, then you could sand off those tudor engraving and mirror polish it

imo, to get the shallow rehaut, try removing metal from the inside of the case. But if you do that, the crown/stem/tube height would become different and the VR3135 wouldn't be compatible. Therefore, the other solution is to install an eta 2836-2 movement. However, finding an open 6/9 ETA dwo (with the correct 3035 font) would be a challenge; but you could get away with a modern closed 6/9 DWO as RSC has swapped service closed 6/9 dwo into 3035 movements before btw, for your inspiration

Matching one here

1. do you plan to mod the watch? 2. are you looking for vintage or modern daytona? 3. what is your budget? 4. how OCD are you?

yup, it looks like a HR case to me (based on the lug profile, the caseback engraving, the crownguard, and the bezel/insert) this is what a HR (helenarou) case is and this is the price: https://www.helenarou.com/5513-submariner-retro-vintage-diving-watch-with-swiss-eta551328242.html you should just buy a rubyswatch case instead!

With those lugs and caseback engraving, it reminds me of a helenarou case

try yodog and tripdog on rwi. They seem to be able to source their own vietnam parts

Here is the attraction!

From my experience, the 2824-2 works better for 1500 build because the stem height of the movement is lower which gives the dwo more clearance to move. However, i have also seen people use 2836-2 and 2846-2 (I.e. the lowbeat equivalent of the 2836-2) in 1500 case builds, but that's trickier to assemble, in my opinion. Here is my 1500 case super franken build with a sellita 2824-2, raffles tall post hands, and helenarou (2824-2 to 1570) movement ring https://image.ibb.co/j6UsHf/20180518-121251.jpg https://image.ibb.co/i1p3OL/20180518-125341-1.jpg https://image.ibb.co/jgwTq0/20180518-121037-1.jpg typo* (can't seem to edit the post anymore): i was meant to say that the 2824-2's stem height is taller than the 2836-2 which gives more clearance for the DWO to move. This is because the 2824-2's taller stem height makes the overall movement sit lower from the top, giving more clearance for the DWO to move.

5500 is a simpler build because you don't need to install a dwo. But a lot of franken 5500 are not accurate because they don't use the gen hands (which have a distinctive pointy front for the hour and minute hand). Instead, many people use aftermarket eta datejust hands for 5500 builds (which looks ok, but not good enough for me). Alternatively, you can build a 5500 air king explorer (using an aftermarket / refinished dial) with eta sub hands. 1500 is a nice build too, but the dwo installation process can be tricky for some people. If you do a 1500 build, I recommend using raffles tall post hands with a stock eta 2824-2 (h2) movement so that the hands have enough height to clear the tall dial indices.

as above, i also recommend the athaya pearl pip however, the athaya pip comes un-lumed. You can 'colour' the pip easily instead with a needle and a felt tip marker. I extracted ink from the felt tip marker by poking a needle into the tip of the felt tip marker, then i coloured the pip with the needle. It's a very macgyver / ghetto method, but it gets the job done HAHA. below are pictures of my own reshaped vietnam case build (with athaya pip that was coloured using the above method): before the athaya pearl mod after the athaya pearl mod

yup long gone. if you need a movement ring for a TC case, then i think it's worth trying those helenarou 2824-2 to 1570 movement ring (approx $15 USD) - they seem to fit TC cases well (from the last time i tried, but ymmv)

May I ask where do you source those 2824-2 rolex 1680 cases? I have been looking for one that takes 15xx date movement (for a budget build) as it should assumably have a gen crown/stem/tune height position as well. Thanks!

i recommend using rubyswatch 5513 cases! those cases are made to accept gen 1520 movement cartel case and MBW case won't take a gen 1520 movement out-of-the-box: for starters, the cartel case and mbw case have different crown/stem/tube height to a gen case.

If it's too good to be true, then it probably is. Reverse google image search suggests that those 16520 pictures are widely used by many scam replica watch sites Settle with a Noob SA4130 116520 instead

if i recall correctly from my research and handling unpolished gens, the 1500 has different lug shape to the 5500 and 1002. Unpolished 5500 Unpolished 1500

Few days ago, my 116520 (904l and sa4130) arrived and it's amazing. So far, everything works buttery smoothly especially the time setting and manual wind. Going to franken it soon!

One of my longterm builder friend from RWI told me that a lot of 2834 comes stock with H4 wheels / pinion, whereas the majority of 2836-2 come stock with H3 wheels / pinion. Oh sweeet! it's making me drool, and I am going to do the EXACT build as that (with a jonj480 reshaped startime 3035 case). Did you use Clark hands for that build?

apparently, this one is good https://www.ts-station.cn/goods.php?ProId=23950

HAHA let's do it buddy! I got a gen dial, gen hand set, and gen bezel from years of hoarding.

(In my subjective opinion and in response to the TC as a watch of its own league) TC was a good watch for its time; but then again, it came at a different price point and it's not like the TC was the only super-rep of its time: there were other super-reps back then with a cheaper price tag (notably, those Panerai). Not to mention, the TC had its fair share of bad QC and/or uncorrectable fatal flaws (e.g. tall SEL mid hump, non gen-spec SEL and/or lug hole location -- at least for the V6 and V7 that i currently own. Also, some of the TCs have notoriously-bad SEL gaps as well). The SA4130 movement's chronograph functionality is not the only spotlight of the watch: 1. The SA4130 movement is compatible with genuine parts for franken builds / modding. Therefore, there is no need to cut off the genuine dial's feet or modify the wheels / cannon pinion (to make the movement accept genuine hands). 2. The SA4130 movement has the right thickness, unlike the following movements: Asian 7750 sec. @6 or the well-revered ARF 116520 (which has a slightly-more bulbous caseback to accommodate those decorative plates). 3. The SA4130 movement has the correct crown / stem / tube height like genuine, unlike the following movements: Asian 7750 sec. @6, the well-revered ARF 116520 (which has a higher crown height, ruining the crownguard shape when you look at it from the side), and JF 23j faux chrono movement (the crown height is too low and it affects the crownguard shape as well). 4. The SA4130 movement's pusher is made to gen-spec and this influences the aesthetics of the pusher location on the case, unlike the ARF 116520 V1 which originally had stubby pushers. 5. Modders, owners, and watchsmiths on RWI have praised the quality and reliability of the movement. As previously mentioned by Tickleshoes, he noted that even the quality of the reverse wheels is top-notch and manufactured like its genuine counterpart. In a nutshell, the development of the SA4130 movement to be a 1:1 clone (of the genuine equivalent) not only brings us chronography functionality (like gen), but it also influences the aesthetic and construction of the case shape, as well as the compatibility of genuine parts for modders and enthusiasts. Also, it doesn't hurt to own something different and unique from the current rep offering? I mean, NOOB CLONED A FREAKIN' COLUMN WHEEL CHRONOGRAPH MOVEMENT!!! If you look at the technical aspects and intricacies of the 4130 movement, then $658 is just a small price to pay for such a feat with the above-mentioned advantages.

assuming that you mean fake deco plates that conceal a generic movement (e.g. ARF + deco plate + modified 7750), the noob sa4130 doesn't use deco plates - it's literally a 1:1 clone 4130 movement. On RWI, misiekped has already successfully swapped in a gen balance. i just ordered one. I will keep you updated on the rotor noise. As for the reliability so far, the feedback appears to be extremely positive on RWI. Members from there reported excellent timekeeping and no faults when playing around with the chrono

I just spent $658 usd for a 904l 116520. As much as i believe that sanity should kick in at certain price points (especially for franken projects), i am willing to pay that much for the one-of-its-kind 4130 clone movement - it's a milestone and it's unique to everything that i have ever owned. Also, the feedback received from RWI's watchmakers is very positive so far, and not to mention, $658 is just a small percentage of the overly-hyped market price of the gen equivalent. People used to pay similar prices for WM9 and TC too

https://www.intime03.co/rollie/5476-pre-order-daytona-116520-904l-ss-case-noob-1-1-best-edition-black-dial-on-904l-ss-bracelet-sa4130.html https://puretime.io/daytona-116520-noob-1-1-best-edition-904l-ss-case-and-bracelet-black-dial-sa4130.html http://www.trustytime.biz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=352&products_id=19155 https://www.ts-station.cn/goods.php?ProId=24763

It's a vietnam bracelet with a vietnam 7-hole clasp (quite uncommon high-quality rep part) Love that dial! Sweet! I love that angle of your watch. Those are good ETA sub hands that can pass my OCD Yes I eventually did sort out the crystal after a while I love it! Gen crown next? Or maybe consider converting the ETA movement inside into having 2-positions only (i.e. manual-wind and time-setting). You can do that by ordering an ETA 2840 combined setting lever and install it directly into the movement