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TheSociety

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Posts posted by TheSociety

  1. Since DW A7750's went for $350ish before he disappeared, I'd say one that's been gone through by a watchmaker with some nice mods is worth at least that, and maybe $500 to the right buyer?
    But...it really comes down to what the market wants to pay.

    His final ones with 7750 and correct flat S bezel Paul Newman went for $800. Prices are all over the place but recently went up pretty high. All he used ones I've seen was over $750


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    • Like 1
  2. I don't know about his movements, but I use all his cases and they're great! Fits gen movement perfectly. I have my watches built and movements serviced elsewhere.

    e718f8c45419074deabeaa3827daf80c.jpg


    Want to Buy: GEN Rolex Movements and/or Franken Sub / GMT / v72 or DW Daytonas!

    • Like 1
  3. This is also 1 of the reasons it is recommended that mechanical movements be overhauled every 5-7 years. Keeping those wear parts clean & well-oiled will extend their usable lifespan.


    I definitely will be doing this! Do you have a recommendation on US servicing on a movement like this?


    Want to Buy: Vintage DW Daytona and Franken / Phong Daytona 6263, 62xx, etc!
  4. A fair price is what a buyer is willing to pay. Currently, for a clean/working 1030, I would consider $1,800-$2,000 a reasonable range.

    This is very informative. Thank you Freddy! Now if only I can find a v72 lol


    Want to Buy: Vintage DW Daytona and Franken / Phong Daytona 6263, 62xx, etc!
  5. On 8/7/2011 at 7:36 PM, chiman12 said:

    I took some time off on a couple of projects (sorry Flex!) and focused on the cartel 6263 that has been recently released with the the asymmetrical pusher configuration, but has crappy sub-dials.

     

    I bought the white PN dial. Besides the big crappy sub-dials, the rest of the dial isn't actually too bad. But the killer is the sub-dials. They are a larger than gen and the hour sub-dial even bleeds into the outside track of the dial. Definitely 2 thumbs down!

    P1014494.jpg

     

    When you turn over the watch, you will notice that one of the pusher notches doesn't seem to be cut as deep as the other...

    P1014495.jpg

    There is a reason for this, which I will explain later.

     

    Opening the case...a shot of inside the case back. Once again not too bad, engravings are deep, fonts are pronouced...

    P1014496.jpg

     

    Shot of the famous Seagull movement that was used in this rep.

    P1014497.jpg

     

    But waitaminute...the Seagull has symmetrical pusher configuration, so how can the new cartel vintage Daytona's have asymmetrical pushers?

     

    Here is the cartel's answer to the symmetrical/asymmetrical problem...

    P1014498.jpg

    For the top pusher, the cartel fashioned a little "L" shaped arm that attaches to the pusher. This "L" shaped arm actually compensates for the difference in distance between a symmetrical and asymmetrical pusher position. The offset is a good 6 to 8mm. This also explains why one of the pusher notches is not as deep as the other one. The cartel had to machine a groove in the case to fit the "L" shaped arm and as a result, the corresponding pusher need to be shortened. Though not noticable at first or even second glance, the top pusher is a bit shorter than the bottom pusher.

     

    I give the cartel this credit...very ingenious, but when the watch is flipped over, the notch is a sure tell. Otherwise, when the watch sits on your wrist, the notch is not noticable at all.

     

    In my exploration, I also discovered that the seagull can never have the proper sub dial spacing for a Daytona. I bought an InGod44 PN dial just for the purpose of modding the cartel to give it the same sub-dial spacing as a gen Daytona. I discovered this...

    P1014504.jpg

    InGod dial on top and the cartel dial on the bottom. Notice how the cartel hour sub-dial post hole is slightly lower than the InGod? Yup...a gen-spec dial is not a direct swap.

     

    BUT...I wasn't going to give up, so I proceeded to tear apart the Daytona and I discovered the following.

     

    As you may well know, the hour totalizer (sub-dial) is static for the Seagull movement...in other words, it is not functional. Here is the little gear responsible for holding the hour totalizer hand in place.

    P1014541.jpg

    The hour gear needs to be moved slightly upwards, but the gear is set into place by a pivot and a pivot hole machined into the top plate of the movement.

    P1014543.jpg

    I had to either move the position of the pivot hole or remove the pivot. I decided that to remove the pivot would be the easiest way. So I proceeded to file down the pivot, until it was gone and the gear sat flat on the surface of the movement plate.

     

    I then took the cover plate...Notice that the plate keeps the hour gear in a specific spot.

    P1014542.jpg

    So I enlarged the hour gear hole by using one of my trusty broaches. But the gear had to stay in its new position, so I used some cold weld adhesive to affix the gear into the proper place on the movement plate. I used slow set cold weld adhesive as this would provide some extra time to move the hour gear into the proper position. I quickly reinstalled the cover plate and placed the InGod dial onto the movement. I then aligned the post to the new dial.

     

    Here is the end result...

    P1014544.jpg

     

    After the adhesive has dried, I used dial dot tape to install the InGod dial. Notice that the hour post is in the middle...

    P1014545.jpg

     

    The hands go back on...

    P1014546.jpg

     

    ...and the final product...the subdial issue for the vintage cartel Daytona...solved!!!

    P1014547-1.jpg

     

    Okay...back to Flex's projects...

    Thank you for posting this! any chance you can re upload these photos?

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