richard591

I wonder if someone would be kind enough to give me some advice on this issue or, if there have been previous posts/tutorials on the matter, just direct me to where I can find them. I’m still new and finding my way about.

 

I recently bought 2-DSSD’s 1-black (non noob) and a noob V6s D-Blue. The V6s is such a lovely thing and so well-made I want to make sure it can be preserved as long as possible, so have ordered a complete replacement 2836 movement plus D-Blue dial and handset. This was to be supplied already assembled, so a simple drop in. Yes, you may have guessed, it’s all going to come un-assembled and that’s where I would appreciate some advice.

 

Firstly, let me say that I’m familiar with working on small fiddly things – collector of antique English & French clocks and working on firearms. So, I will be doing it myself as soon as it arrives, then putting it away until needed. I have already had both the DSSD’s apart to check over, waterproof and regulate and am familiar with the process of dis-assembly/re-assembly.

 

So, these are the questions:-

 

1.      Having mounted the dial on the movement I would normally expect to then set the position of the hands by rotating the winder until the date just flips.

      This should be 12 midnight, at which point the hands are mounted at that

position before moving slightly ahead (to say 3 o’clock) to test the date change

      over function.

2.   I now have to mount the hands and that's where I could use some guidance. Are there any specific do's and don'ts, such as the pressure applied when

      mounting and are the hands self spacing on their respective pinions? I'm unfamiliar with the tube construction on these hands and don't know if they have

      to be manually set to the correct spacing off the dial. While this is going on the movement would obviously be in "time set" position.

 

Any useful guidance on this would be much appreciated and sorry if I’m just repeating what’s been asked a thousand times before.

Didn't get very far with the last question, so here we go again.

I have scoured the posts here about the Omega PO-chrono's and run through the listed PO's on most of the TD's sites. Still none the wiser. Can anyone who has one help me out?

I'm looking for the very best PO-chrono with full working chrono functions that is currently available. Many are listed as Faux function (not working) for hour and min recording dials, but I want a fully working one to compliment my genuine 1969 Speedmaster Moonwatch.

Would be pleased to get comments from anyone who actually owns one of these, if they are actually available. There seem to be a couple on Ryan's website at Intime, but really not sure as they look (and are priced) the same as others which are described as not fully working.

Names of dealers and best make would be much appreciated.

Sorry about that. Completely forgot where I was for a moment there!

Having just bought two DSSD's (black and D-Blue) to compliment my gen Submariner am now looking at a Planet Ocean to compliment my 1969/1970 early Speedmaster Pro Moonwatch. I'm initially thinking about the "Chrono" version as I still love the Speedmaster, but I also like the look of the straight time/date version. Both would be best in Titanium or Stainless, preferably with "liquid metal" blue dial.

Can anyone advise on which are the best versions/supply source for these. Also, which movements. The Chrono seems to be available with 9300 or 7750 movements and the timepiece with 2824-2.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks for that, thought it might be the case, but good to have confirmation.

Can anyone illuminate this one please.

I have two DSSD's with A2836 movemements. Best is the noob V6s DSSD D-Blue and the other an older version (non noob). Both are very nice.

My question is concerning the interchangeability of the movements watch to watch in case of problems in the future. The one I would obviously preserve out of preference would be the noob V6s. It's by far the superior case. so questions are as follows:-

1. I know that the winder stem tubes do vary in size and I can see that the noob V6s has the larger (like gen) tube fitted. However, is the winder stem exactly the same size/design regardless in order to fit the (I assume standard) A2836 movement for this particular watch application?

2. From what I can see, the A2836 movement seems to be fairly standard and fitted in a very wide range of reps. Looking at the movements themselves, they both seem identical and for the DSSD's all the retaining parts, such as screws (2 number) plus the movement retaining collets and retaining rings all seem identical. Therefore it seems to me that the only critical difference would be in the winder stem itself. However, if the internals of the movement are identical, then I assume the profile of the stem must be standard?

3. Both watches are new, but from different sources, and I'm not sure if the winder stem sizes might have changed in the past few years. It seems to me that to produce and sell these reps for the money charged (particularly in view of the quality of the casework) everything should to be relatively standardised with finished movements picked out of a bin of finished items and just assembled very quickly. Only variation being watch type (therfore winder length perhaps) and face/dial.

In my ideal world, if anything went wrong with the V6s, I would like to just be able to switch the movements over. Before anyone asks "why would you sacrifice the other watch"? It's simply because the noob will be the most worn. It was the second purchase and frankly if I'd seen the noob first I'd not have bought the other one as the detail on the noob is all you could ask - 120 click bezel with very accurate "feel", Rolex etched crown at 6 o-clock and superb casework and bracelet. And I say all that comparing it to my genuine Submariner.

Obviously, there are other options also such as fitting in another A2836 replacement movement (they seem to be available) or a genuine ETA 2836 to name two of them. Repair might be more difficuly as I live in France and am not sure of the reaction of watchmakers here to being presented with a fake Rolex. I might get arrested!!

Thanks again everyone for the input. Very helpful

Exactly, that's why I didn't try to remove the inner ring.

I guess for those who only wear the watch as a changeable accessory this is all a bit academic. However, for those who do actually want it to withstand light duty as described, this is all useful stuff. As I said, has worked on the DSSD Black so far, but if the valve on the noob DSSD V6s is actually a working item then it should be sealed anyway. After waterproofing/greasing all the seals might still be worthwhile to have it pressure tested anyway, just to make absolutely sure.

 Thanks, have you got the V6s DSSD?

If you have, that's very wierd then because if it was the same on mine I assume it would be visible. Looking at it from the inside it seems only possible that the hole could be on the other side of the inner ring, as I said, which itself is fitted so tightly to the case you can't see it. Nevertheless, these watches are never going to have to experience letting Helium out anyway.

If you're right and you may well be, then I assume the hole is drilled through the main body of the case to fit the valve, then the inner ring is pressed in after that and covers the hole.

However, if it is and it's a functioning valve, then at least that means it should be watertight in its own right, because you couldn't get to the hole unless the inner ring was removed. I personally draw the line at that point, because I'm not sure how the inner ring disengages and wouldn't want to disrupt the case to that extent.

Hopefully, what I've done (as described) will perform as well as on the DSSD Black. If not, I'll let you know.

Since I couldn't get a definitive answer to my post on Saturday 6th Aug to the question "is the hole for the dummy HE valve on the noob V6s DSSD drilled all the way through the case" I took the movement out today to have a look.

Answer is:- no it doesn't seem to be. If it is, then it's behind the tightly machined and fitted inner ring which seems to be press fitted into the case just under the rehaut ring and you can't see it. I couldn't see any way water could get past that if you're just doing what you should be with a rep and only swimming or showering. I also assume, at least with the noob V6s DSSD, that the HE valve may have some form of seals, as it's billed as being resistant to 5 ATM. However, don't trust it until you've checked the back for tightness. Mine was only hand tight when I got it.

This seems to be born out with my other DSSD Black. I did that one some weeks ago - back off and winder stem out to grease with silicone all the "O" ring seals, then tighten the whole lot down. Much flailing about in the pool and drying out in hot sun since hasn't shown up any problems so far.

Personally, this is as much as I would expect from a rep. If I want to go skiing, water skiing or windsurfing (too many high speed wipeouts to mention) I would only wear my genuine Submariner. That's done the lot and never missed a beat.

Sounds like you've really got the bug. Told you it was nice.

Back to my message on waterproofing. Had the movement out today and the good news is that the hole for the HE Valve does not seem to be drilled right through the case, or if it is, it's behind the tightly machined/fitted inner ring under the rehaut ring and you can't see it. Therefore, take back off and winder stem out to apply silicone grease to all the "O" ring seals seems to be all that's required. I've done this to my DSSD Black as previously mentioned and have been in the pool with it several times now without any problems. Watch dries out on my wrist in 30 degree sunshine just to put it under further stress.

Enjoy.

Still can't get a definitive answer to this one, even from Intime. So, today the back comes off again and the movement out to inspect. Will post the results when I know. My DSSD D-Blue is a V6s, but I assume it will be the same for the just released V7, as the list of additional mods to that don't seem to alter anything to do with the HE valve.

Thanks everyone for the input.

Generally, if I need heavy duty waterproofing, I only ever wear my genuine Submariner.

The question was mainly to address and follow on from the very good post by "gioarmani" in August 2009, in which he covers the whole issue of waterproofing and clearly states that no rep should be regarded as watertight at all (regardless of what's said) until checking out and sealing. He mentions that he's done this to all his reps without problems.

Since I do want to be able to swim and shower with it on it's vital that the watch doesn't get ruined for lack of a couple of hours of minor work to make sure. It's kind of nonsensical (even for a good rep) not to be able to put up with that!! I have already done this to the DSSD black and have done about 20 laps of the pool wearing it without any problems at all.

This was particularly highlighted when the new noob DSSD D-Blue turned up. Fab though it is and although it's billed as coping with 5 ATM out of the box on the website, when I put the back removal die on it I undid it with just hand pressure!! That's not going to stand 5 ATM or anything like it. Now, it may be that after regulation they just forgot to tighten up the back again (perhaps) but if I'd taken that at face value I would have a watch full of water and a ruined movement.

After a thorough inspection and greasing (including the two piece back faces to aid tightening) it's as tight as in can reasonably be for the duty intended. Since I now have the movement regulated to only +5 secs in 3 days I obviously don't want to remove/disturb the movement if not required, hence the question.

Although these watches are obviously never going to need an HE valve, some are described as having working ones, why I just don't know. It may be a simple question of continuing to make them look as authentic as poss, in which case the actual depth of the dummy valve used may need a deep hole in the case to accommodate it.

Just as a matter of interest, my DSSD black is an older model and does have the HE valve that you can push in from the front. However, as stated originally, when I took the back off the hole didn't go all the way through the case, thus proving the variability of the whole issue.

I'll ask Ryan at Intime to see if he can get the answer from the factory boys before taking the movement out.

Can anyone answer this one for me?

 

Does the hole which takes the HE Valve on the noob DSSD V6s go all the way through the case, thus needing sealing internally to completely waterproof?

 

I have a DSSD D-Blue V6s which has just arrived from “Intime” and I’m currently going through re-regulation, which is going well. In doing this I have already inspected and greased all the gaskets as detailed in "gioarmani’s" post of August 2009, but not yet taken the movement out.

 

The reason I ask this question is that I also have (from a different source) a DSSD Black which is already completed (waterproofing and regulation) and when I took the movement out I discovered that the HEV hole on that one was not drilled all the way through the case, therefore not needing filling with epoxy.

 

It does seem rather counter-intuitive to drill a hole all the way through, thus compromising the case integrity, for a dummy valve that’s never going to actually be needed or used. However, I’m not sure on the noob V6s, as its way better and slightly different to the DSSD Black. Nevertheless, if I don’t need to disturb the movement on the D-Blue for the same reason, then it saves dismantling it all.

 

If anyone has done this or knows the answer I would greatly appreciate the info. Failing that I will have to contact Ryan at Intime to see if he can get the info for me.

All the best

Richard

 

Good luck and enjoy.

I went for the A2836 and was warned off the 3135 by another member on this site. I think the 3135 has weaknesses/reliability issues and is not worth the extra money. However, the 2836 seems to be regarded by most as a good solid and reliable movement. This is also my current (so far) experience and if you go to my post on "regulating the A2836 movement" which is still ongoing and getting replies, you will see that I have been going through a regulating period with good results on the original DSSD black I bought before the D-Blue.

 

Thanks for that. You've just reminded me, I remember being told that many years ago by Rolex when I dropped my gen Sub off for a service. Never bothered to do it with that watch, but will try with the DSSD. The sub is in for a service at the moment, so will be interesting to see just what the 575 euros cost has achieved!! Ironic that you can get a beautiful rep of the DSSD D-Blue like the noob V6s I've just bought for way less than that.

Third update on DSSD black.

Now, after 3 days from last tinkering, it's running at 7 secs fast compared to my computer clock and that's lying on it's back all night, face up. So, will try the "lay vertical, winder down" tonight and see what happens.

At this level af accuracy I regard it as very good and not worth disturbing the back again now it's all been waterproofed. This equates to just over 1 minute a month error if it remains consistent and to be honest my gen Rolex Sub is about the same. After much tinkering I also didn't get my gen Omega Speedmaster Pro Moonwatch any better.

 

The DSSD (genuine) is fitted as standard with the full glidelock bracelet, which includes the central lift up section allowing for micro adjustment on the wrist. My DSSD D-blue and the DSSD black both have this, as they should to be faithful replicas. The replica sub I also bought has the standard glidelock which just slides when taken off the wrist, but no central lift up section.

The DSSD bracelet is also 21mm wide as opposed to all other modern subs at 20mm wide. The DSSD bracelet should therefore not fit a sub as its 1mm too wide. The quality of the bracelet on the DSSD D-blue is outstanding and I know that if you went to Rolex to buy a genuine one it's over £2,000

Second update.

No problem. Having got it to +5 secs a day, took the back off again yesterday morning and backed the screw off by approx half a notch. In the past 24 hours it's gained 1 sec against my computer clock. Will be interesting to see if that continues with the likely daily variations you would expect from a non-certified chronometer. Wearing characteristics for me are:- put on wrist at about 8am, then wear for day to about 10-30/11-00pm. Then besdide table until morning with watch lying on its back.

Since this is (hopefully) last time I need to take back off for some time also carried out a complete waterproofing as it was re-assembled. This involved making sure the central part of the two piece back seated perfectly in its case groove (required a liitle micro fettling to make perfect) then silicone grease to all parts of the winder tube gaskets, crown gasket and the inner back gasket itself. Also put a little smear on the outer ring inner chamfer to aid tightening down on to the inner part of the back. After this, accidently jumped in the pool yesterday afternoon with watch on. No problem. Still perfect.

Yes, you're correct, it weighs in at 215g after removing 2 links of the bracelet to make it fit perfectly. I wouldn't worry too much about the weight as I got used to it very quickly with the DSSD black edition I had bought a couple of months ago.

I also am used to wearing a genuine Sub, which is currently in for its 5 yearly service at Rolex, and the DSSD bracelet is as comfortable as that and also much higher quality as it's the latest type of "glidelock" with micro adjustment. You just have to get used to the fact that the case obviously seems a bit "top heavy" at first. This sensation soon goes and after wearing the DSSD for a month or more I just don't notice it any more.

Possibly the only thing you have to get used to long term is the fact that it's easier to catch/bang it on things as you pass by due to the height above the wrist. So, just be aware.

Good luck and if you buy one - enjoy. It's a lovely piece of engineering, even if it's only a rep.

 

Having recently bought a DSSD black from another source I must confess I fell in love with the noob V6 DSSD D-Blue, so decided to buy one of those as well. I bought the D-Blue from Ryan at Intime, a trusted dealer, and have not been disappointed. I was helped in this decision by all those who have recently posted about the same source/supply, so thank you all for the info and comments.

Without any doubt this noob V6 watch knocks spots off the original DSSD black I bought from "Forever Watches". It is utterly stunning and I say that being a very long term wearer/owner of the genuine articles. The quality of finish is just faultless and an added bonus is that it's keeping time at about +4/5 secs per day straight away.

Bezel is a full 120 clicks and the best I have felt so far in terms of feel and (although bloody difficult to see) the Rolex etched crown logo is there on the crystal at the 6 o'clock position. The bracelet is also of very high quality.

My experience of dealing with Ryan was faultess and the whole process from order to delivery (via UK) was about 9/10 days. Payment was by credit card with no problems or delays.

I received the promised QA photos with the order number alongside about 2 days after payment was confirmed and looked at them very closely because I had read posts from others wondering if these were only a set of standard/stock photos sent out to everyone. I looked at some of the most recent QA photos published by other members who've bought this model from Ryan on a back to back basis and I can confirm that, although the angles and shots were same/similar, I could clearly see the differences, particularly in the position of bits of the wrapping on the bracelet, the position of the crown and the position of the lettering on the case back. This was all re-confirmed when looking at the actual watch when it arrived and comparing it to the photos again.

So far as the price is concerned, it's worth the extra by a long way.

So, all in all, I must say this confirms what everyone else who's posted has said. Thanks again to all of you.

Update on my original comments/question.

Took the back off and started by adjusting the regulation screw by about 1 notch towards +. This corrected the slow run to just about -3 secs per day from -10 to 11 secs per day. Took the back off again after it had settled down and moved the screw another 2 notches towards + which has resulted in the watch now running about 6 sec per day fast.

So, my conclusion is that (at least on this DSSD) with A2836 movement the posts I have read about 1 notch being about 5 secs per day seems about right. Overall I have moved it 3 notches and it's gone from - 10 secs per day to +5/6 secs per day. Hope this is helpful to anyone contemplating re-regulating their own.

After purchasing my DSSD Black with A2836 movement the watch is now settling down after about two months wearing. At first it was approx 15 secs a day slow, but is now consistently about 10 secs, so I assume like any piece of mechanical equipment it's got a running in period.

I will soon be dismantling it to completely waterproof and want to use the opportunity to correct the regulation to slightly fast. Am therefore looking for any useful tips or observations from those who've done it themselves.

Have read a number of posts in various places suggesting that movement of the adjusting screw by one notch in either +/- direction changes fast/slow regulation by about 5 secs per day. Is that broadly correct? Seems a bit much to me, as I would have thought it might be a bit more sensitive to movement. However, I've never adjusted a 2836 movement before, only an Omega Speedmaster.

Any info on this would be greatly appreciated.

 As mentioned before, am looking for the best version of a DSSD- D-Blue I can get my hands on. The watches that are on this site seem to be from Noob and at about what I want to pay. Does anyone know Tony Chen? is he a trusted dealer? Only concern is that there is a site - Bestreplica.sr which is a scam site. Any info would be much appreciated again.

Thanks everyone, very helpful. Just ordered from China

Recently bought a rep DSSD which I'm very pleased with. Now need to remove back to check movement, slight regulation (currently running slightly slow) and complete waterproof check/waterproofing. Will need a kit of dies, including the correct 36.5 die for the DSSD, so wondering if anyone has experience of buying the ones off e-bay. There seem to be one or two kits at about £33, but not sure of the quality.

Any comments appreciated, including anything to watch out for from those who've done this.

Generally, the watch was bought as a 1:1 replica and seems very good quality from the outside.