POTR

Insanity seems to surround end pieces for some... I "crushed" a pair of 455 B's the other day to fit a mid-size Jubilee to one of my Croton Aquamatics...

Nice PPC, I like the Tudor Prince Date too.

You're a moron.

Looking at it, as closely as possible from the poor pictures... Studying the available ebay purchasing habits of the seller... I am of the opinion that while the majority of the parts may very well be original, the seller probably assembled this watch himself. The movement, although hard to see, has accumulated a LOT of nearly parallel scratches (at nearly right angles to the Geneva Striping), meaning it was probably uncased for a very long time and stored poorly... or was packaged and shipped poorly... however, it is mostly bright and doesn't show a lot of other age that we would expect to see (check the wheel finish opposed to the scraped up bridges) Compare the Crown against the Case... crown is well worn and nicked... case is nearly unblemished, but doesn't look 'polished', case back is nicely scratched... And, if the dial is aged, as it is, from an apparently compromised case... where is the similar damage and age to the hands? (and movement, for that matter)?

Thanks for clearing that up TTK..

I didn't back peddle from anything... And, since you aren't simply confused... keep your two faced, self righteous crap to your own.

Actually, what I said was he was lucky it was illegal to pay him what he was worth... He discredited himself with his unwarranted tirades.. And I am giving you the benefit of the doubt when calling you confused...

For $60, Clark's (Nostalgia-2000) is hard to beat with anything but Gen...

Yeah, and don't you love that if you don't specify every time, PP will always try and take the money from the account instead of the card, when you are trying to pay for something, so you have no recourse?

Actually, if you add a bank account to your Paypal account for "verification", you also have a contract with Paypal that states that they are authorized to debit that account... And they will.

More like 70% right.... The earliest 1680's also had the 7206 rivet bracelet with 60 or 80 endpieces... My personal preference.

Looks like a solid ceramic mid case to me... (with a steel case back and anchor for lugs & case screws) If you ever did any body work with bondo, you might be able to pull something reasonable off with JB Weld... Don't doubt the little lady too quickly... torsional forces from bending the wrist could have pushed the band against the ceramic lug, creating more pressure (through leverage) than it could withstand... there could have been a flaw... and, these things aren't made of the same quality ceramic as the Gens...

Chieftang, depends on the chronograph... But basically, consider that the timing and resetting are different operations, each applying massive force in differing ways to acheive different results... Engaging reset (applying massive force to quickly move the seconds back to zero) while there is an opposing force (steady force to move the pinion to show the timing event) would basically cause, jamming, bending or breakage of wheels. Higher end column wheel chronos, (kind of shaped like a turret (VJ 72, El Primero, etc...) are designed to ensure that the operations can't be engaged at the same time, however, applying too much force to the reset while the chronograph is running could break the lever, or even the column wheel, causing even more damage... More common chronos with an oscillating pinion (ETA 7750, etc...), use the heart shaped cam and additional levers to separate the functions... these are easier to break with too much force, especially if any of the parts are easily overcome because of their construction (nylon/plastic)... Imagine an car's differential, it is geared so that the transmitted energy can be delivered in different (hence the name) amounts to the wheels as required (going through a turn one wheel must turn faster than the other, or damage will accumulate)... now imagine those differing forces being applied by different gear sets to THE SAME axle... instant damage.. Flybacks are different, in that they are designed to disengage the regular motive force before applying the flyback force, and are more complicated for this reason...

That means your watch is pressure tight... 1. For heights higher than you are likely to climb, and 2. For depths deeper than you are likely to swim without gear...

Yes, but some are not willing to accept "assignment of benefits" in lieu of full payment for services rendered.

A crappy watch is harder to work on than a nice watch... therefore, it is more reasonable to pay more for the extra work and headache. It's not like you can say "They should only pay the cook at McDonalds $2.50 and hour instead of $7.50 an hour because they use Grade D beef instead of Grade A beef that the other guy uses." The cook is still doing the same work, no matter how crappy the burger... Now to criticize the guy that turns horse meat into something of closer resemblance to fillet mignon, for accepting that $2.50 to do it on his own schedule, under his own terms... That is just downright idiotic.

So, make the minute hand heavier with the fake plug, so it is even more likely to fall off the too short pin, and dig heavier scratches into your dial... Hmmm.

Eh, when ETA dries up completely, Sellita (2824, 2892 and 2838) and La Joux-Perret (7750 and 2892A2) will probably be up to speed to fill the need for genuine Swiss... at least genuine Swiss that can't be covered by the newly Chinese owned, Swiss STM Holding (Soprod, SFT, Indtech), which has been gearing up to do their own manual movements for a while now...

TeeJay, poor dear, confused as ever... my swat was not at burger flippers, but at the worth of the poster... I have done more than my fair share of manual labor, whether required for income, and even without income, simply to take care of the needs of others... AND, I didn't have to be "fashionably revolutionary" to do so..

I don't work on any watches other than my own. REALITY CHECK: The cost of the watch isn't the issue. The value of labor is. And, on average, rep watches take more labor to repair, maintain or modify than Gen watches. What do YOU do? And are you willing to do the same work for a bunch of people who seen to do nothing but criticize, haggle for lower prices, and bicker like children for less than half the prevailing wage for your labor? What would your feelings be if you did? Of course, the point is probably lost on you... To only pay half of "Burger Flipper" wages for you, would be illegal in the US... lucky you.

I, for one, could. However, I do not wish to stick myself in the muck that is the repair and support of same with questionable movements. Anyone who will, who possesses actual skill and the fortitude to see all jobs to proper completion, deserves much better consideration and remuneration than the Rep community as a whole seems to feel obligated to provide. There is at least one working swiss trained watchmaker in the US here on the forum... I doubt you will see him offer to take your commission either. Not worth the hassle of dealing with someone who wishes quality for next to nothing. (Of course, the whole Rep community is partially built on this misconception) Don't worry though, I am sure you will find someone to take your money with a "good enough" approach and attitude.

eBAY - Search Item # 350022605927

You're not supposed to put anything in your 'pockets'...

Very Nice, kind of looks like a redial/repaint to me though... also looks like the bezel insert has been replaced a long long time ago.