ettienne

Anyone know where to source a new movement? Anyone had any luck sourcing just a movement from any one of the dealers?

yes interested

I had the crystal on my Arktos GMT AR coated at my eye doctor. Over time, the coating on the face of the crystal became scratched so I remove it with a brillo pad. After about six months, I noticed some fog on the crystal. When I disassembled it to clean it, I couldn't wipe off the fog. I used a cloth and then a dremel to lightly polish the crystal which I believed was sapphire(purchased from Eddie Lee) I popped out the crystal and it shattered in my hands. Upon a closer inspection I realized that it is not one solid crystal but two, glued together. The outside of each crystal doesn't scratch, like sapphire, but the inside, the sides that are glued together scratch like plexi-glass. I thought crystals were one solid piece. Is this the case with all of our supposed true sapphire crystals?

Here check out this site for a reference, it explains it much more clearly: http://www.onebag.com/popups/wcompass.html

I totally agree. That movement is well worth it. And using a no name dial, even adding your own engraving will make it your own...it becomes a watch with a story instead of just a copy of a fantastically overpriced timekeeper. I'd love to see it when you're done.

After searching for a vintage 8 day movement that could be modded and messed with to be fit into a rep 203, I started thinking...do I really want to do this? This is an old eight day movement. What if after all this work...$$$, I drop the watch, need a part for it...or worse, lose it...I ended up keeping the eight day in a small pocketwatch and installing a Unitas in my rep instead. The movement is cheap and reliable. Weigh in on this, all you who make homages and reps of vintage watches...since we're never really making exact replications of these rare or extinct models, isn't it a lot of work and expense to end up with what is an older movement and one that will be difficult to fix if it breaks? I guess its the age old question of why we buy reps if, after all...they're reps, not gens. Is it out of wanting to feel like we've pulled a fast one...achieved near perfection in looks and quality to the discerning eye of gen owners all the while knowing we saved thousands? Or are we seriously deluded by a near perfect replication into thinking that we own an original piece? For me, I prefer creations that nod to other ideas but don't aspire to copy any of them outright...it's more about the artistry of the maker I suppose.

Oh behayve...nice touch with the [censored]!!!

Great I look forward to it. How do you plan to get the print on the dial?

Does anyone have a source for these? I need some replacements.

Here is a work in progress inspired by a panerai I saw called a "SLOB". For those who haven't seen the link, this is a real pam that some looney collector flew around the world to find and verify. I thought it looked very unique and I wanted to replicate it. I may change the dial but don't want another 111 dial so I'll see what options looks best. The dial in there now was an 005 that I superlumed and then messed up so I sort of went overboard trashing it. I thought it worked in this bronze plated case. The CG is also bronze, just muddier because of the plating method. The SLOB has a plexi crystal but seeing how that scratches and for the moment I have an AR sapphire, I am going to stay with that. I will eventually replace the dial when I find the right one. here is the SLOB link: http://www.network54.com/Forum/353391/mess...er-+Have+a+look

maybe...or bronze plated ti with right back...and also a plexi crystal...totally doable

http://www.network54.com/Forum/353391/mess...NERAI+PROTOTYPE This thing is great. I would love to see better pictures of the metal though.

Which was the first 44mm Pam with second hand and crown guard? Which was the first sandwich dial? Is the sandwich dial a new "vintage" feature or was it in any of the old 44mm Pams? I know it was in the 47mm and Radiomirs...I want to know specifically when they started making 44's...come on paneristis!!!

So here is what I ended up doing. First, I did think if cutting the rep tube down, fixing it in the case and having it retapped. That is not a possibility in my case as they were too close in size and I didn't have the tool nor could I find anyone who owned a tapping tool for Omega on this board. That also prohibited the suggestion of filling the hole, drilling and retapping. My only other option was to mix up some JB Weld(other two part epoxys didn't hold the torque)and very very carefully just paint the threaded part of the tube. I slid it into the case and then pulled it in and out and around to tack it up completely. I scraped away the excess Weld and pressed it into the case. I put it under a hot light and let it sit overnight. I am happy to report that it was a success!!! The only problem now is that the gen tube is so much longer that the rep tube, I'll have to get a stem extender or a new stem for 2836. Not a big deal. Thanks for all the input and advice. Andreww...in response to you suggestion about in the future, possible fixes...I saw on Ofrei that they sell an assortment of tubes. If I could find the proper tap, I would purchase that assortment and try to fix one of them with Weld. It's splitting hairs because the gen tube threads are not that much smaller than the rep tube without threads. In the end I didn't see the harm in having my tube permanently fixed in the case.

get a movement from ofrei

Yes Andreww, this is the options I would like to take the most. However, finding someone to work on a rep and do this type of job...I don't know...The epoxy, I've tried but the torque of tightening the crown has been too much for it to stay in place. I will try a different epoxy again before attempting the JB Weld method. What about putting the Weld directly on the threads of the tube and afixing it in that way? This would sacrifice the tube in a way because I wouldn't be able to unscrew it ever...but maybe this is the best method since finding someone to retap a rep might be hard. I'll do a little more asking about that first. I've found plenty of Rolex tapping tools, no Omega...

I have a 45mm PO. The crown was crooked, bad workmanship, I decided to upgrade. I take out the rep crown and tube. Order a gen crown and tube. This takes a few weeks to get and not easy by the way. I receive the gen parts and realize the tube is a screw in type, the rep tube is not. Therefore, the rep case has no threads. Furthermore, the case cannot be tapped because the gen tube fits in it already...meaning, it's already too large to be threaded and take my smaller gen tube. What to do? Is it possible to have someone refill the hole in the case and then retap? Any suggestions? I've already ruined my rep crown so going back is not an option.

Does anyone know the case number of a gen PO 45mm? I need to order a crown and tube. I thought the number was 168.1650...this is not it. The case number is found on the inside of a gen caseback.

Here is the shot you requested. I also have an old dial from a deeply flawed 063...but I like the dial and the font, even though the lume is less than great, I've shaved it down so it would fit in the Davidsen case and I'm considering using that dial instead of the one in the watch currently.

Does anyone have a Davidsen 063? Is the case different from the other 063s offered? The bezel is wider (from case to crystal)than any 6497 case. I realize they are different models and movements but is this accurate in comparison to gens? Also, the font on his 063 dial is very thin and the Luminor TOO small...is anyone out there doing any dial work to correct this? I've heard that the Davidsen product is slightly different from everyone elses. I have a couple of his items and I can see this but I want to know specifically about the 063. thanks

What is the latest with the pam datewheel upgrade for asian 7750's eta 2836, 2892's? Are most people just getting an upgraded cyclops instead?

Has anyone any idea where I can get another one? I tried my dealer but I haven't had any luck there. All in all, great rep, but the actual stem coming out of the crown, not the movement stem that unscrews, was slanted and thus the crown always screwed in funny. I would like to find a replacement. If anyone can help, I'm all ears.

I've done that. It keeps popping out. Anyone else have this issue? Maybe the wrong stem....

The stem will occasionally pull right out of the watch when I pull it out to adjust...I press it back in and it catches...any idea why or how to fix? Watch has swiss 2836-2 movement.