ettienne

Anyone know where to source a new movement? Anyone had any luck sourcing just a movement from any one of the dealers?

yes interested

I had the crystal on my Arktos GMT AR coated at my eye doctor. Over time, the coating on the face of the crystal became scratched so I remove it with a brillo pad. After about six months, I noticed some fog on the crystal. When I disassembled it to clean it, I couldn't wipe off the fog. I used a cloth and then a dremel to lightly polish the crystal which I believed was sapphire(purchased from Eddie Lee) I popped out the crystal and it shattered in my hands. Upon a closer inspection I realized that it is not one solid crystal but two, glued together. The outside of each crystal doesn't scratch, like sapphire, but the inside, the sides that are glued together scratch like plexi-glass. I thought crystals were one solid piece. Is this the case with all of our supposed true sapphire crystals?

Here check out this site for a reference, it explains it much more clearly: http://www.onebag.com/popups/wcompass.html

I totally agree. That movement is well worth it. And using a no name dial, even adding your own engraving will make it your own...it becomes a watch with a story instead of just a copy of a fantastically overpriced timekeeper. I'd love to see it when you're done.

After searching for a vintage 8 day movement that could be modded and messed with to be fit into a rep 203, I started thinking...do I really want to do this? This is an old eight day movement. What if after all this work...$$$, I drop the watch, need a part for it...or worse, lose it...I ended up keeping the eight day in a small pocketwatch and installing a Unitas in my rep instead. The movement is cheap and reliable. Weigh in on this, all you who make homages and reps of vintage watches...since we're never really making exact replications of these rare or extinct models, isn't it a lot of work and expense to end up with what is an older movement and one that will be difficult to fix if it breaks? I guess its the age old question of why we buy reps if, after all...they're reps, not gens. Is it out of wanting to feel like we've pulled a fast one...achieved near perfection in looks and quality to the discerning eye of gen owners all the while knowing we saved thousands? Or are we seriously deluded by a near perfect replication into thinking that we own an original piece? For me, I prefer creations that nod to other ideas but don't aspire to copy any of them outright...it's more about the artistry of the maker I suppose.

Oh behayve...nice touch with the [censored]!!!

Great I look forward to it. How do you plan to get the print on the dial?

Does anyone have a source for these? I need some replacements.

Here is a work in progress inspired by a panerai I saw called a "SLOB". For those who haven't seen the link, this is a real pam that some looney collector flew around the world to find and verify. I thought it looked very unique and I wanted to replicate it. I may change the dial but don't want another 111 dial so I'll see what options looks best. The dial in there now was an 005 that I superlumed and then messed up so I sort of went overboard trashing it. I thought it worked in this bronze plated case. The CG is also bronze, just muddier because of the plating method. The SLOB has a plexi crystal but seeing how that scratches and for the moment I have an AR sapphire, I am going to stay with that. I will eventually replace the dial when I find the right one. here is the SLOB link: http://www.network54.com/Forum/353391/mess...er-+Have+a+look

maybe...or bronze plated ti with right back...and also a plexi crystal...totally doable

http://www.network54.com/Forum/353391/mess...NERAI+PROTOTYPE This thing is great. I would love to see better pictures of the metal though.

Which was the first 44mm Pam with second hand and crown guard? Which was the first sandwich dial? Is the sandwich dial a new "vintage" feature or was it in any of the old 44mm Pams? I know it was in the 47mm and Radiomirs...I want to know specifically when they started making 44's...come on paneristis!!!

So here is what I ended up doing. First, I did think if cutting the rep tube down, fixing it in the case and having it retapped. That is not a possibility in my case as they were too close in size and I didn't have the tool nor could I find anyone who owned a tapping tool for Omega on this board. That also prohibited the suggestion of filling the hole, drilling and retapping. My only other option was to mix up some JB Weld(other two part epoxys didn't hold the torque)and very very carefully just paint the threaded part of the tube. I slid it into the case and then pulled it in and out and around to tack it up completely. I scraped away the excess Weld and pressed it into the case. I put it under a hot light and let it sit overnight. I am happy to report that it was a success!!! The only problem now is that the gen tube is so much longer that the rep tube, I'll have to get a stem extender or a new stem for 2836. Not a big deal. Thanks for all the input and advice. Andreww...in response to you suggestion about in the future, possible fixes...I saw on Ofrei that they sell an assortment of tubes. If I could find the proper tap, I would purchase that assortment and try to fix one of them with Weld. It's splitting hairs because the gen tube threads are not that much smaller than the rep tube without threads. In the end I didn't see the harm in having my tube permanently fixed in the case.