Faster897

Looks like a very nice quality rep.

ARF or Noob for you?

Been trying to buy a top quality 1:1 Panerai 1940 3 days or a Luminor Due in either steel or good quality gold plating. Unfortunately, nothing seems to be around.

Are other members having this experience?

I'd be happy to hear from members and also if you have one for sale! 

Not as many suggestions as I thought this thread would get, but thank you all. 

23 hours ago, automatico said:

"...explanations between gold wrapping, gold plating and the various things to be aware of?"

 

In the real world, 'gold wrap' would equal heavy gold filled or gold capped.  The old USA jewelry standard tor 'gold filled' used to be 1/20 gold by weight...1/20/14 = 1/20 14k gold by weight.  You can see this on some older GF bracelets etc.

In the replica world 'gold wrap' equals mostly heavily wrapped BS.  For sure there were some very good replica bracelets made with a thin layer of gold on the bracelet center links (tutones) but gold was around $400 troz back then, now it's $1200 troz.  Look closely at a genuine rolex tutone bracelet end link (16233 for example) and you will see real 'gold wrap' where a strip of solid gold is soldered to the top of the stainless end link/hood.  The bracelet center links are solid 18k gold along with the bezel but the (original) crown has a gold cap crimped over base metal (nickel silver).

There may still be some 'gold wrapped' bracelets around but they will be expensive.  I would guess a tutone 13 link oyster type bracelet with actual 14k or 18k  'gold wrapped' center links would sell for $300 or more because a high quality oyster type bracelet with solid 18k center links will cost around $1000 to $1100 retail.  Wholesale price is probably $800 or so if you could find a source.

 

 

"...wrapped links, turned out BP links (and others) weren't even gold."

 

Yep.  I have a few jubilee type bracelets with '18k center links' that are actually plated brass.  They look good and will last a long time but they have to be kept clean and polished with Simichrome, Flitz etc or the edges of the mid links will fuzz up with corrosion. 

 

 

"18K Thick Rose Gold Thick Plated (5 mils)…"

 

5 mils = 5 thousandths of an inch.  Not bad.

For comparison, the old 'gold cap' rolex 1550, 15505 etc had 40 mils (.04 inch) of gold on the case.  The bezels were solid gold.

Never saw one worn through but have seen a few where an idiot polished through the gold on the sides and top edges. 

 

Otoh if they said 5 microns...

5 microns = 0.00019685 inch

 

There is also 'flash gold plating'.  FGP = thickness less than 7 millionths of an inch, sometimes used to give gold tone color to cheap items. 

Less than 7 millionths of an inch ain't much.

 

Also PVD coatings...fairly rugged and no gold at all.

Thank you all for the excellent posts.

Am I right in saying then that the link I put is good quality and is worth going for? Bold font above to highlight the point I'm referring to. I would love to try that Panerai if the gold finish is good. Would you recommend a buy personally?

That was my instinct, so I am glad I asked!

So when a TD describes something as gold plated, they're telling porkies?

Thank you for your helpful post.

I like the look of this watch, but I have no experience of any gold plating with replicas. I would be grateful for some thoughts and views.

Maybe some of the very experienced members here could even offer a some technical explanations between gold wrapping, gold plating and the various things to be aware of? 🙂

Are replicas with gold plating as good as SS watches, or is it a step too far?

For example, the 11610 in SS is a "super replica" but would a gold version be as good?

Some pictures of watches with gold plating and some owner thoughts would be great.

It's arrived! Working hard at the moment so will need to find time to take some nice pictures. Very pleased with my new watch!

Thank you for that recommendation as well. 

Look forward to some more with time.

Thank you very much. Any links to watches you personally feel an affinity to? Best factory for ladies AP?

Hi,

I can't find a lot of discussion on ladies watches on this forum. 

I don't have a fixed idea of what to get, but I would be very grateful for some information on which models by which factory, you would all consider to the best 1:1 replicas in terms of closeness to the original.

I don't really mind what make it is, as long as it is a good quality replica. I'm sure she will be very happy with anything elegant and tasteful.

I would like to get my other half something that she can wear with pride!

Thank you very much.

Another week and still nothing sadly! Not even an update on the tracker really, but the TD says they only update when they get into the country destination. I am getting a little concerned that it will get lost in the Christmas rush...!

7 hours ago, kernow said:

The less patience you have the longer it takes it seems! It’s a lottery unfortunately, it can also get held up in customs too. Sometimes the tracking doesn’t update and whilst you’re thinking the watch is still on route to you, bingo, it arrives. I’d say anything from 2-4 weeks isn’t uncommon at this time of year. I’ve just had one arrive from the States in 4 days and that’s a record for me. The last one I had from China was around 2 weeks. 

Hi and thank you for the useful info. I'm going to go into zen mode and wait it out!

Hi guys, just an update. Still waiting on the watch to come through...!

For my edification and for this thread, how long is normal to wait for a watch to be sent from China to the UK? I believe there is quite a range and some weeks is not uncommon?

I've been in touch and he's been super professional and helpful. I will be sending my watch to him once I have saved up a little. 

What a lovely set of posts. @Legend, I will be in touch once I get the watch! Thank you all so very much - power of the internet!

@Legend, are you based in the UK though?

6 hours ago, Legend said:

 

Thank you Legend. What a nice post! I will keep learning and contributing. I hope to get in touch with a "modder" soon and ask him to clean the lume off, realign the batons and maybe make the watch more silent. Would you recommend any watch modder in particular given your great knowledge and understanding of this replica?

I've got the feel of the place better now and not disheartened at all! I'm happy to just put up things and if it helps just one person, it's enough for me.

17 hours ago, Champsy said:

 

I’m guessing you have been asked not to share the photos again from the statement above?

If this is supposed to be a guide then you are hardly guiding people in the correct procedure of how a transaction should be done.





Sent from me

 

For your information, I have had a forum admin say that photographs are fine. It has since been deleted once the helpful members here came by and comments were made (than you again to those nice people) and there was no further use for the photographs to stay up. I assume the same will happen with the current posts. In any event, I have confirmed I accept the current piece on offer. So, I don't agree with your suggestion that this thread is unhelpful.

5 hours ago, kernow said:

How much is the gen? How much are you paying for the rep? Is it close enough looking to the gen to accept these small flaws (that could possibly be corrected) so that you’re saving many thousands of £/€/$ compared to the gen price. If the answer is yes then I’d accept it, if no then you’re in the wrong game and should start saving for the gen. My guess is that it’s just fine and you’ll be happy with it once it’s on your wrist. I had the same OCD when I was new here and thought long and hard about accepting my first piece from Andrew at Trusty. When it did and it arrived I couldn’t even see the faults I found on the QC photos he’d sent. Your choice but I’d say yes. 

Thank you very much for your helpful and pleasant post. I have accepted the piece, but I am also saving for the gen (one day!)! Very good to know that the faults become less obvious in real life. Thanks again - appreciate you're taking the time to post!

Right! A fresh batch of pictures in. I would welcome comments before they are eventually deleted by a moderator.

In my view, this looks like a better overall piece than the last (picture directly below with the red markings).

The new piece looks good. The only thing that appears "off" is that the 12 o clock batons aren't straight. They are a bit like like this:   / \ to my untrained eye.

Question: Is this something a friendly and skilled watchmaker can fix? Anyone on here?

Any other comments? Should I accept? Pictures of the current piece on offer below.

I think I will accept this watch and try and get the little bits sorted when i have more money.

An update. I gave the TD my feedback last week and they have promptly acknowledge receipt of my email. However, I am yet to have his actual comments but has said he "waiting for the factory".

Is this normal? I went back on Friday.

Thanks guy. I was just curious about the genuine dial - I don't have anywhere near that kind of money! Hoping TD will come back to me with his thoughts on my comments, today.

For the guide, if I can't find a watch that I would accept - would I get my money back or he'd just send any watch he wanted?

Great post, thank you!

As part of the guide, it might be just the ticket to include some fine-tuning about "modding". Which as I understand it, in simple terms means giving the watch to a watchmaker of sorts and he can then put in genuine parts, repair or modify. This could include something like cleaning up the face of the watch.

Is there anyone in the UK or a watchmaker in London that could be recommended?

For this watch, it's just the lume splodge that I think needs cleaning up.

I can see the QC pictures have been removed, but if I get another set, should I post those temporarily for comments?

2 hours ago, Champsy said:

No need to apologise for being an eager beaver buddy I understand you want to get on with it and most of all get that watch on your wrist.

Like already said it isn’t bad, personally I don’t like the splodge on the 6 marker that yes can be removed but by someone that knows what they are doing so be prepared to send it off once you received it unless of course you have these skills?

This is going on your wrist so only you alone know what flaws you can live with after all it’s a rep you will have to accept some.

As for the gen dial fitting straight in 1:1 I don’t believe that is also possible without modifications again more experienced members will know for sure.




Sent from me

Thanks again. Let's see what the TD says... I think the splodge on 6 marker is a problem for me. The rest I can live with.

1 hour ago, kernow said:

No, all is good with leaving the photos. As has been said it’s a personal opinion about the watch. For me, I’d accept it as the markers look well aligned and the little overspill of lume (glue?) could be cleaned up if it really bothers you. If you reject it the next one could be worse. If YOU like it accept it, if you’re unhappy then tell the TD why and ask for another. 

Hi and thank you! I think it looks ok, but I guess I'm not sure what the average "ok" looks like! But it's very buoying to have a couple of people suggest that it is not bad already.

Will wait and see what the TD says to my queries. I've explained that I'm not rejecting but I'd appreciate his thoughts.

How do I find a watchmaker who would be open to helping on a replica? I'm between Ireland and London.

And out of curiosity, could you fit a genuine dial on a PF replica?  If it's 1:1 you should be able to?

Something like this? (Crazy prices, I know! Just dreaming/asking).

Cheers. Very helpful and apologies (sorry!) if I was overly keen! I will continue with my guide as I do want to try to give something back. Mods, please remove the pictures if you feel that is right (I've reported my post). The way I read the email was that if I accepted the QC then I shouldn't post, and I haven't accepted yet, so I posted but the mods can take them down of course, but it will make the guide less helpful. 

Disappointing to not have much enthusiasm for this guide. Thanks in any event and I'll probably leave things here.