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Zwiebak

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About Zwiebak

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    I'm new. Be nice!

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  • Country
    Germany

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    Male
  • Location
    Berlin
  1. @automatico @watcher I just checked rafflesdials' website. The 6 mm crowns he is selling separately come with a 5.3 mm tube (2.4 mm inner / 4.0 mm outer thread width according to specs). Therefore I assume that this will also hold true for the case sets he has on offer. I will keep you updated on that. Meanwhile I received an offer I could not refuse for a gen crown (very scuffed up though). Unfortunately the seller could not tell me which tube it was meant for, so fingers crossed it fits.
  2. @alligoat Well I will see how it looks in person once it arrives, but judging from the pictures the coronet on it is way too small. I'm building the watch for myself, not to impress anyone, and if the crown is wrong it will be annoying me all the time.
  3. Just thought I would share this link with you, that I found very helpful. Among other things it contains a table with crown, washer and tube reference numbers.
  4. @watcher According to automatico's "Crown info" thread it could either be a 24-600-x crown on a 24-60xx tube or a 24-603-x crown on a 24-53xx tube. Furthermore it is also possible that the case I ordered has a completely different tube spec than any Rolex.
  5. @watcher Thank you, this is good news. I will have to wait for the case to arrive then and measure the tube before I order anything, because he couldn't tell me if it was 6.0 or 5.3 mm.
  6. @automatico The guy behind rafflesdials told me, that a genuine 3135 crown would not fit onto the stem of an ETA 2836-2. Can you confirm this?
  7. @automatico Thank you so much, that was really informative and insightful! Also thanks for pointing out that crown sticky, I see that this is a science in itself. Good to know that before purchasing anything. A guy on a different forum told me that even new ETA movements require fresh oil and some regulation especially if they have been stored for a while, so I guess I will go for the bargain on Ebay. The Asian ETA 2836 movements in my replicas keep excellent time (far beyond 15 s/d) so I kinda have high expectations, but we'll see. I did some research on Datejust history and it turns out that the dial I was looking at was a tritium lumed dial from the early 90s, whereas the rafflesdials case is a post 1994 model (no drilled lug holes) and the bracelet is stamped with 2001 codes (DE7 / 455 B). So I looked some more and found a beautifully aged tropical dial from 1998 and a pristine silver dial from 1999, both 27,8 mm in diameter and with superluminova to match the rafflesdials hands. I contacted rafflesdials and according to them a 27,8 mm gen dial should fit, but I'll measure it when the stuff arrives. I've found a nicely aged 16200 datewheel from 1990. Not exactly true to the whole 2001 thing, but I like the font more than on the later datewheels. Furthermore I will follow your advice and order an inexpensive spare dial for fitting as well. Will normal ETA hands work or do I need ones with a longer post? The more I think about it, the more it seems to make sense to glue the dial to the dial spacer, because then you can still rotate it to find the perfect fit, right? Regarding adhesives: I've read a lot about how adhesives can get soft and work their way into the movement when the watch heats up. Can you comment on that and perhaps recommend a tape that you have had good experiences with?
  8. And more thing that makes me worry: The gen dials that I had in mind are 27,8 mm in diameter according to the seller, whereas the raffle dials case is fit for 28,0 mm dials as sold by them. Is my concern that it might be too small for the case justified? That would be a couple of hundred quid down the drain so I'd like to be sure in advance. Sorry for crashing this thread.
  9. p.s. Why do you think it might be necessary to remove the teeth from the gen datewheel? Shouln't there be enough clearance after removing the day wheel on the inside?
  10. @automatico First of all, thank you very much for your answer! I will go with an ETA 2836-2 then. I've found a Swiss ETA 2836-2 on Ebay for 98€, however it says it has been in storage for 10 years and would require a cleaning. My watchmaker offered me to clean and regulate it for 100€. Would that be a good deal, or would it make more sense to buy a new (pre-sealed) one on CousinsUK for 250€ and mount it without cleaning or regulating it? A case tube is where the crown screws into right? I didn't even know those were removable... do you think a gen crown might not fit on the raffles dials case tube, or is it only about the quality? Do you mean that the dial does not have to be glued at all, if the spacer and case clamps are closely fitting or do you mean that the glued feet are more likely not to break in that case? Thanks again and have a great day
  11. Hey I am planning on building a similar Franken, however I am still unsure whether to use a raffles 2824 or 2836 case as base. I've read the crown position is too low on the 2836. Is that true? On their website the crown position looks to be the same. Are there other advantages or disadvantages to each movement, e. g. when fitting a DWO or a gen DW? Do I have to worry about alignment of the date window with either of the cases, movements or datewheels? Currently I am considering ordering the following things: - rafflesdials DJ36 smooth bezel case - rafflesdials silver lumed DJ36 handset - rafflesdials vintage hollow end link 20mm jubilee for DJ36 - Swiss ETA - gen blue sunburst DJ36 dial with lumed stick indices glued on .74mm dial feet from CousinsUK (item nr. D38748) - gen 3135 DW, rafflesdials ETA DWO or a BP v2 DW whatever works best? - gen 6mm crown For any advice I should be very thankful. p.s. I am entirely new to this, I don't even have any tools
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