rodwc

"but you have to start somewhere" You START by plugging the holes in the leaky boat. Simply throwing money at a problem is NOT going to make it go away. 12000 members with this kind of crap happening is simply a bloody joke. Cull the number to those who are willing to pay for the benefit, and lets face it 99.5% are getting benefit from RWG. Look at the ongoing problems in Africa, many many billions have been thrown there, and the problem is STILL the same, Give them the means and knowhow to plant and grow food for themselves, .........THEN see the benefits.

For me at least , it is NOT about the money. Just go back and read all these ideas and come to some understanding and direction, If not this SAME situation will rear it`s ugly head again. Far too many have simply shot off at a tangent and taken it on themselves to pull RWG out of the mire. Very admirable I admit , but .............it is not the solution. ( Long term wise ). A FORTHRIGHT DIRECTION IS REQUIRED FROM ADMIN. TO SAY WHAT WILL BE FROM NOW ON.

Have to agree here. Simple , straightforward $ 60 per year. This way everything is evened out with finances , and not relying on generous donations from certain members. This needs a decision NOW, as quite a few members have allready started donating.

The way I read this is............it`s going to cost me $60 per year. Is this the total or is there another 30 euros per year which "supporters " are allready paying ? Whichever way I`m in ,.................can I please have 007 membership number ? This way is ALL VERY SIMPLE, think about it and lets get this ball rolling. There HAS to be a way such as this so that EVERYTHING is taken care of each month AUTOMATICALLY.

No person has the right to force their beliefs on others, whether they are right or wrong. As to elephant hide watch straps................. certainly NOT for me.

Yes , I would like that too. Thanks in advance.

I like to think that we are ALL here to help each other. Anyone who thinks that they know it all , really have no place here. I will still be learning until the day I die. To Newdoc, Never apologise for asking...........if you don`t ask.........you don`t get. PS. great to see you back here Hambone.

@HikeUSA Good observation. The lume dots at 9 and 3 would have to be the most glaring and obvious tell. That to me is worse than the P and A spacing on the non-chrono.

Like it a lot, just what mods did you do? Pm me when it is for sale ( this way you don`t have to pay the advertising and commission costs ) SERIOUSLY . ( In OZ. too, just up the road from you . )

Banners/ Ads/ advertising blurb, I could not care less about it , if the whole page was covered in this $hit. I simply don`t even LOOK at it and absorb the information I am here for. Some people have told me that the ticking of a clock annoys them, traffic noise annoys them, people annoy them. OMG. Get busy and turn off, to these minor irritations, and have a good look at just what you have got here.

Sklem , when you have uploaded your reduced pic. to photobucket you will see a box of options under your pic, click on the "IMG code " link and you will see it "copied" Then simply paste that link into your post, on RWG. This way your pic comes up immediately your post is seen, in RWG. Edit. No worries now, your pic wasn`t coming up with your post, everything looks great now.

Don`t mean to show any dis-respect here but tungsten can`t be milled, it can only be ground with diamond wheels and the green grit silicon carbide wheels. I think the only way these watch cases could be made in tungsten is, if they were drop forged in sintered tungsten.

$ 3140. This is madness.

$2660 plus $100 shipping and still 2 hours to go !!!!! Is the idea of making these things dead?

Now that`s a good way to get watches out of China, and land in your own back yard.

This bezel will not come out sucessfully if CAST, The internal dia. / recess / and circlip recess would need re-machining.

An alternative to using paint , which by the way is used in all antique clock engraving ( dial numerals etc,) is BLACK WAX similar to a crayon. There is actually a filler stick specially made for this job from Meadows and Passmore ( UK ) The wax is applied to a flat knife or spatula , heated again , then smeared into the markings, heated again and the excess wiped off. When I say heated, I mean very gently or you will fry your watch.

@ Chaotik, Hope you get your bracelet sized and sorted, unfortunately there are many pig ignorant people in all walks of life, however, should you decide to go the DIY route with the pin extractor, Just make sure that the hardened pusher in the tool is lined up perfectly with the pin , OR IT WILL BREAK. Secondly what no one has mentioned is , Make sure you push the link pin out THE RIGHT DIRECTION as one end of the pin is ENLARGED. Hope this makes sense to you.

If I could just clarify this by saying, LOCTITE 680, is the correct term, which comes in a red plastic bottle, the liquid contents being a very dark green in color. Just make sure that the thread is absolutely CLEAN ( free from grease and oil ). This is important.

Does anyone know for sure, if there are any stampings or markings on these bezels? If there is, this is a whole different ball game.

Original and Rare. This type of bezel was made well before SS, was used. Also if these are to be made, and made in SS, they would stand out like the proverbial dog`s balls, and couldn`t be passed off as "GENUINE".

This could be a real goer, but this original or some other would have to be sourced to be able to copy, can`t make this from pics. like the Chinese sometimes manufacture our reps. A straightforward fabrication and machining operation would be the simplest method, ( see my last post further up ) The other question is just how much of a demand is there for these? There are at least 6 other bidders willing to pay $380 so far, with $100 shipping to Australia.

Just re-thought the manufacturing,.........forget casting, lost wax or otherwise. The handling and machining is too much of a hassle and time consuming. This whole bezel could be machined from thick walled brass tubing, turned to the exact dia., milled on the outer edge with the correct no. of spacings, with the inner dia, and recess machined in the lathe then finally parted off. The only other operation would be machining the outer face of the bezel, with a slight curvature. Even that could be adjusted on one side of the parting tool. So the only thing left is the plating.