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bertieng

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Posts posted by bertieng

  1. Has anyone come across the Noob V8 SD43 released 3 months ago yet? Putting the 904L SS aside, how does it compared with the ARF V2 version? Both of them have the A2824 housed so I guess they have a very similar case dimension.

    Am I correct that the ARF V2 still has the sharp bezel teeth and overpowered cyclop issues? Does the Noob V8 have the similar problems too?

  2. On ‎9‎/‎16‎/‎2018 at 3:49 AM, Tribal said:

    I will take a look at, when I install a gen Tube. To countersink the Tubehole you only need to measure the last dip of the Tube.
    There must be enough space for the gasket.

    Hi D, have you eventually installed the gen. 703 tube onto the ARF126600? Is it necessary to do the tapping for the installation?

  3. Thanks again for your advice, holo.

    This is good news to know you can do the case reshaping. Should shoot you a PM in due course.

    BTW, is the gen dial for 6154 a 3pc sandwich(Aluminum, plexi + brass) with just 1-1.2mm? To my eyes, it is definitely a sandwich dial, right?

  4. Thanks for the info and comments, gents.

    In such case, is Athaya's 3pc dial correct as per gen? It stated as 3mm thickness which I feel is very thick for a dial.

    BTW, any idea who on RWG will do the PAM case reshaping? Particularly for the 6154 cases. Any referrals would be most appreciated.

    Thanks again.

  5. Currently heading for a 6154 build project.

    Searching for the case to start with. Anyone has the experience with the Athaya 6154 case? Is it accurate at all since 6154 has a very unique shape/finish over the usual Radiomirs.

    Thanks.

  6. Quote

     

    Yes D, it was my typo. I did mean ARF, not DW, lol.

    According to Pombok's info, if the tube hole has the right diameter already, why further tapping is needed? The threads on the case is different to that of the gen tube? If that's the case, drilling is then necessary.

    If countersinking is needed, what is the drill size to be used?

    What's the difference of a gen click spring to that on the rep?

    To me, the biggest hiccup is to get access of the gen crystal, which is almost nowhere to be found...…..

     

  7. After years of keeping this beauty in the box, finally made the decision to go for a complete mod closer to the real Jumbo even though it's still miles off.

    Torn down the ETA movement and did a complete overhaul. Gone with the seconds hand, mod on the cannon pinion to give a solid end, polished up the crown removing the PP logo - this is what the gen should look like.

    Alas, the hands are scratched but they were actually came like that, those scratches were not noticed as they were covered up by the seconds hand on top. Two pieces winding stem installed, so it will save all the hassles from removing the movement from the solid caseback now. If a folding clasp can be installed onto the bracelet it would be a step closer:)

    Some pics to share here. Hope you will enjoy.

    20180505_223006.jpg

    20180505_223117_001.jpg

    20180505_223200.jpg

    20180506_175813.jpg

    • Like 3
  8. I need to service the movement of this great watch, but after I popped open the top I have no clue how to remove the stem to take out the movement at all as it is impossible to access to the back of the movement to reach the stem release button. Anyone have this experience and any ideas how to do it? Any expertise advices would be most appreciated.

  9. Intending to build a 201/A based on the 6497 movement. My understanding is that the 6497 is designed to have the seconds at 9, in such case what should be done to the seconds pinion with the 201/A dial sitting on the movement's top plate? Do I have to file down the pinion to let the dial sits flush on the movement top? Just can't figure this out.......

    Can any experts help? Thanks a lot.

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