bertieng

Just took out of my PAM027 with real ETA/soprod module iyt if the storage box, and shocked to find the cyclop has gone opaque! No idea why it happens. Anyone has the same experience? Anything can be done to get it cleared again? Ir do I need to change to a new crystal with cyclop? I only found aftermarket crystals in the bay with cutouts on the crystal's backside to act as the cyclop instead of an actual cyclop sticks onto the backside. Is this correct? And there are so many different crystal sizes available, what is the correct dimension for the PAM 027? Thanks for any advices.

Just wondering if oxidized chrome plated seconds hands can be polished with Cape Cod to regain the shiny finish, or it will remove the plating completely leaving a dull look. Anyone tried?

What are the ways to age the red paint like on the Milgauss seconds hand arrow tip, and that red triangle on the 6538 insert? Use the bleach soaking method as for the black paint on the insert? Or should it be other special ways/treatment for the red paint?

Possible to share the source of this great looking insert? Couldn't find anything close to it from nowhere. Thanks.

Beautifully built indeed. The bezel insert is gen.?

Does the Aquanaut 5165 and 5167 share the same lug width? Why I ask is that I need to get the replacement rubber strap for my MBK 5165. On the market only those with 21mm width replacements for the 5167 are available. Any advices are most welcome. Thanks.

This is the thread I have read about the potential problem of the Powermatic 80 mvt. So does it mean the dial from the Miyota mvt will have it's feet sit correctly onto the ETA2824 should I decided to forget about the low beat issue? Thanks.

Thanks for the info. Powermatic is out of the question because of the potential problem it has in the long run as indicated by other members. In such case is ETA2824 a low beat movt? Cheers.

Been looking through all the treads though still a bit confused at the movement swap issue for the Diver. Is it correct that the ETA2824-2 a direct swap of the Myota movement to give a low beat? The dial feet will fit correctly onto the 2824-2? And the ETA will sit tight inside the case? The option of Speedmatic is not the choice in view of the long term potential problem of it. Any expertise advices is very much appreciated. Cheers.

Getting parts from TD depends on your luck. Goodluck anyway.

Kinda surprised those on the APROO doesn't fit though, thought they would have the same spec. Back ordered for screws too??? I am sure the factory has millions of them lying in the drawer, they just can't be bother to fetch and send one to you. They rather more eager to collect the pre-order money............ Perhaps you just live with the watch with one missing screw for a while, the caseback won't fall off anyway.

AR = anti-reflective coating So far, my personal opinion, if talking about APROO Diver V3, can't see much more to improve further after UWE's mods.

This is the best mods on APROO Diver V3 I have seen so far. Absolutely awesome. Nice to hear UWE is coming back. He is still one of the best for V3 mods.

No need to kill the date function unless you are expert in removing parts on movements, or you may not be doing good to it. Just take away the datewheel is ok. Afterall you can't mod the keyless work anyway, you will still have the two position pulling of the crown. Just adjust the time by one pull of the crown will do. Transplanting the conversion parts from cal.4030 is a hell lot of works - almost tearing down the whole movement, and finding all the right parts is extremely difficult. Imagine you need to change all the wheels and pinions to get the original 16520 handset fit properly, coz those on the Zenith/Ebel have completely different pin sizes.

1655 uses cal.1570/5 GMT. Never cal.1560. I guess that where the things have gone wrong with the handset. Getting the original Rolex 1570/5 GMT in good working order is becoming so rare, and service parts are very hard to find too particularly for the GMT module.

100% gen, no doubt about it.

Must say he is very brave to list it on ebay though. Pretty hard to believe people are bidding at over €6000 (at this moment) for a fake AP. Another proof that those got the money to buy AP don't what an AP should look like, lol That means the chances of our super-rep AP getting spotted is quite slim, even if the guy is actually wearing a gen.

Thanks a lot for the sharing. Wow, not easy to make considering the tube is actually very small already. You used the dremel/cutting plate to make the pins end?

Now I get it. Thanks. Still, can someone share the pic of the PAM tube modded screwdriver for the bolts plz?

Can you share with the pic it is made? Thanks a lot.

Maybe I am wrong then, or perhaps AP has used a new system in their APROO. This is what I see from the construction drawing. It shows those are not bolts but rather is in tube from to hold the bezel screws. http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/100/casern.jpg/

Yes, this is what the Swiss uses for removing the screws. They never use steel head screwdrivers for case works. BTW, the gen APROO doesn't use those similar bolts as used in rep to hold the bezel screws.Rather they are held by the male/female locking. This makes better sense indeed. Do you have the thread showing how it looks like?

Simply amazing!!! You can find a factory to do all the machining, stamping, plating............for just ONE dial!? Just unbelievable!!!!!!! Can't imagine how much they are going to charge you.

Thanks. Yes, I mean those "funny" bolts beneath the bezel holding the hex screws.

Can someone advise where can get that "funny" screwdriver for the unlocking the bezel screws? Or is it necessary to make it by yourself - how to do it then? Thanks in advance for any info.