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HBB: Is it just me or is it not 1:1 as the dealers have said?


anton

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Question to all the other HBB owners (besides me) and those who know their HBB stuff:

Is it just me, or are there unavoidable inconsistencies between the Rep HBB and the Gen HBB?

1) Incorrect date font

2) "HUBLOT" text on dial should be sans serif?

I was almost going to point out the chrono seconds hand, but after triple-checking other posts I've learned this is also correct.

If it is incorrect, I plan on smoothing out the text with some black paint (not me; my surgeon friend is going to do it) and try to source a datewheel.

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1:1 does not imply that the rep is somehow an exact copy of the genuine.

obviously the movement (among other things) will be different.

1:1 generally means that a genuine was purchased to model the watch after and the case etc should be a pretty exact copy ;)

a $350 watch will never be exactly like a $7000 watch, just good enough for most of us ;)

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1:1 does not imply that the rep is somehow an exact copy of the genuine.

obviously the movement (among other things) will be different.

1:1 generally means that a genuine was purchased to model the watch after and the case etc should be a pretty exact copy ;)

a $350 watch will never be exactly like a $7000 watch, just good enough for most of us ;)

Who's selling it for $350? :)

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I consider 1:1 to refer to basic details such as case dimensions, basic materials (metals, sapphire, etc.) and proper hand and subdial size and placement. The dial should be very close. Rep dials are virtually never completely accurate and correct date font is still a rarity.

And on the HBB, unless you are trying to sell it as gen :wounded1: , there are so many variants that you are unlikely to be called out anyhow. The movement will never look exactly correct either unless you have the same engravers. By the way the engraving on the gen is pretty crappy anyhow. The most fundamental flaws on that watch are the lack of engraved materials on the back other than on the Mellow Yellow.

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I've heard that the weakest point on the replica is the clasp, which is pretty uncomfortable...

That is a weak point, but it varies as larger writs fit more comfortably (from what I have read). I still think, as mentioned, the weakest is the lack of engraving on the back movement, where stickers are used instead.

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I've heard that the weakest point on the replica is the clasp, which is pretty uncomfortable...

Actually that clasp is fairly accurate... I had an opportunity to try a gen on at a duty free shop at the SanJuan PR airport... they had the stainless/ceramic bezel in the case with a "sold" tag on it... talked em into letting me try it on though.

Very nice watch but the clasp on the gen sat wierd... I think any single deployant is prone to do such though. I would say (other than the obvious movement/rotor sticker issues) tells are the datefont and CF dial. And with all the variations of datewheels and dials coming out with the gens, keep it on your wrist and no one will be the wiser.

Not a bad rep for a 9000usd+ gen.

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1) Incorrect date font

2) "HUBLOT" text on dial should be sans serif?

1) the date font that Hublot uses varies greatly

2) the "HUBLOT" text on the dial of my 2 HBBs is serif - the genuine is sans serif - but it is very hard to see without looking at photos of the watch

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thanks for the replies! it actually releived my suspicions.

as far as the HBB's cost is concerned, I say the complexity of crafting such a piece (if it IS indeed crafted just like the original, there's going to be a bit more than making a case out of let's say, a single piece of forged steel) justifies the price of nearly $600 on this rep (I paid $700 here but at least I got to try on three different models and see them in person!).

by the way, the version I received had materials engraved on the caseback. Although it's wrong (says Ti/Cer when it's a SS), who is going to want to stare at the back of it anyways?

Screws felt solid and material shines. I've noticed now the misaligned "20/10" on the subdial and I have to run the chrono to 45, reset, then run it again to 15 and reset to get it aligned between the "6" and "0" in "60" (but this is whenever I use the chrono).

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