bruce79 Posted June 12, 2007 Report Share Posted June 12, 2007 Just received my 93150/580 bracelet from Josh and need to modify it to fit gen bars. For those of you who know loose end link bracelets, do you have any advice for this particular mod? I remember reading in a prior post that just clipping the end link holes and stretching them out a bit will do the trick but the bracelet is a different story. The hole in the bracelet is rather large and it looks like the 2mm bars would work but alas it is just a bit too small. It seems a little fragile to take a drill bit to so can the mod experts offer some advice? Should I just try and pry it open a bit with a piece of metal? What do you think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jetsons Posted June 12, 2007 Report Share Posted June 12, 2007 I tape the ends of pliers (prevent any scratches) to firmly hold the bracelet ends. I apply lubricant to the bracelet hole and drill bit... Snap-On Cobalt. Repeatedly clean the bracelet ends and bit of cuttings using lubricant as needed (usually three times per end). I use the rotary tool's lowest operating speed (5K RPM on mine) and drill slowly taking my sweet time. Make sure the tool is running before inserting the drill bit. I've done it this way several times freehand and haven't had any problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce79 Posted June 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2007 I tape the ends of pliers (prevent any scratches) to firmly hold the bracelet ends. I apply lubricant to the bracelet hole and drill bit... Snap-On Cobalt. Repeatedly clean the bracelet ends and bit of cuttings using lubricant as needed (usually three times per end). I use the rotary tool's lowest operating speed (5K RPM on mine) and drill slowly taking my sweet time. Make sure the tool is running before inserting the drill bit. I've done it this way several times freehand and haven't had any problems. Got it, I'll get to it and perhaps post a tutorial for everyone. It's not a big mod but an important one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted June 13, 2007 Report Share Posted June 13, 2007 I tape the ends of pliers (prevent any scratches) to firmly hold the bracelet ends. I apply lubricant to the bracelet hole and drill bit... Snap-On Cobalt. Repeatedly clean the bracelet ends and bit of cuttings using lubricant as needed (usually three times per end). I use the rotary tool's lowest operating speed (5K RPM on mine) and drill slowly taking my sweet time. Make sure the tool is running before inserting the drill bit. I've done it this way several times freehand and haven't had any problems. This is a good method for expanding the hole in a solid link bracelet, but I am not sure I would drill out the hollow ends. You may either drill through the metal or weaken it so that the bracelet will not be secure. I slid a small flathead screwdriver into the hole and then turned it sideways and worked it back and forth until the weld at the bottom of the link (that forms the enclosure for the springbar to slide through) broke. Then, the gen springbar had enough room to fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce79 Posted June 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2007 This is a good method for expanding the hole in a solid link bracelet, but I am not sure I would drill out the hollow ends. You may either drill through the metal or weaken it so that the bracelet will not be secure. I slid a small flathead screwdriver into the hole and then turned it sideways and worked it back and forth until the weld at the bottom of the link (that forms the enclosure for the springbar to slide through) broke. Then, the gen springbar had enough room to fit. I've been thinking of breaking that weld but then won't the bracelet be just as susceptible to falling off as if I drilled the hole wider? Perhaps even more so. How strong is that last link on the bracelet if the weld is broken? I'll admit it certainly sounds easier than drilling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted June 13, 2007 Report Share Posted June 13, 2007 Neither option is optimal, but drilling will thin a relatively wide area of the metal while a broken weld will not. Yes, the weld could pull apart if pressure is exerted upon it, but I think there is less chance of that than there would be if you made the metal thinner from drilling. After considering both options, I chose to break the weld. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce79 Posted June 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2007 I'll give it some thought. Drilling seems pretty ridiculous considering the wall of the tube for the spring bar is like 0.1mm thick. I'll keep you posted, thanks for the tip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jetsons Posted June 13, 2007 Report Share Posted June 13, 2007 i hope I didn't confuse anyone. I was referring to drilling the non-SEL bracelet ends in my above post & not the end links. I've done exactly the same for SEL bracelets but it takes more time and patience As to the non-SEL end pieces, I have drilled them in a similar fashion but that is tricky business. Another option is to slice them at the center with a thin rotary cutting blade which is much easier. Either way, ths bracelet is secure on the watch without any sloppy movement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted June 13, 2007 Report Share Posted June 13, 2007 Jetsons -- I agree that you do not need the little hoops through which the springbar slides through in the end links (the hollow, folded metal pieces that link/attach the end of the bracelet to the lugs on the watch case). So removing them with the cutting blade of a dremel (or any other tool) is a good idea since the end links will stay securely in place with or without them. But I do not know how you can enlarge the hole in the hollow fixed end link at each end of the bracelet enough to allow a 2mm springbar to fit through without either tearing through the metal 'fabric' or leaving it so thin & weakened that the stress caused by normal wrist movement may cause it to separate and break apart, which could cause you to lose your watch. I guess it could be done, but I would never feel comfortable with my watch held together like that. Another option that did work on 1 end of 1 of my hollow link bracelets was to use a nail punch and widen each side of the hole by gently hammering the punch through each side until the opening widened enough to fit the springbar through. Unfortunately, this ended up causing the link to warp and you can see it when you look at the bracelet. It is not that bad that the average person would see it, but it was bad enough that I decided to just split the seam on the other link instead. And that link (including the seam area) looks completely normal, even at close inspection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jetsons Posted June 13, 2007 Report Share Posted June 13, 2007 Freddy, I opened them as much as possible by applying upward pressure on the loop opening with small screw drivers and drilled them the rest of the way (all performed free hand while securely holding the bracelet ends with the taped pliers). There was sufficient metal (at least on the pair of MBW rivet bracelets ) to do this and the watch is very secure. There is absolutely no play, warping or deformation of the metal. Examining the modded bracelet one would not notice what was done other than the 2mm bars now fit. The hole punch idea is a good one. I will give it a try on the next go around. The difficult ones have been the pair TW of SELs I have done this to. Those were time consuming in comparison to the vintages. The easiest thing would be to source vintage oyster bracelets with the correct hollow mid-links. The pair that I have are ready to accept the 2mm bars as is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce79 Posted June 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2007 Thanks for all the tips. I fooled with it last night and tried enlarging the holes by breaking apart the weld with a screwdriver rather than drilling them. The end link on the bracelet warped a little bit but it's not that bad and I can probably mess with it to make it look less bent. But it worked and the 2mm bar fits fine and the metal still feels very strong, it's actually kind of hard to see where the weld broke. As far and the loose 580 end link is concerned, I tried to do the same thing with the screwdriver and ended up breaking one of the little metal tubes that guides the spring bar right off. But like what was mentioned above, the tubes don't seem to be that necessary. I just need to dremel down the curve in the loose end link so it fits better with the case and allows the bars to snap in. I can get one of the sides in but not the other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yt74 Posted June 14, 2007 Report Share Posted June 14, 2007 (edited) I tape the ends of pliers (prevent any scratches) to firmly hold the bracelet ends. I apply lubricant to the bracelet hole and drill bit... Snap-On Cobalt. Repeatedly clean the bracelet ends and bit of cuttings using lubricant as needed (usually three times per end). I use the rotary tool's lowest operating speed (5K RPM on mine) and drill slowly taking my sweet time. Make sure the tool is running before inserting the drill bit. I've done it this way several times freehand and haven't had any problems. Edited June 14, 2007 by yt74 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce79 Posted June 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2007 Well, after taking some time to dremel the loose end link, I got the spring bars to snap in. The end links seem to be pressing against the bottom of the bezel making it hard to turn. I might need to take them in a little more. Just curious, how much play should there be between the last bracelet link and the end link? They seem to be rubbing against one another making it sort difficult for them to swing freely like the other links. Any thoughts on this? They'll probably loosen up a bit as I wear the bracelet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raijor Posted June 14, 2007 Report Share Posted June 14, 2007 This is a very timely thread. I am planning this mod and have found this shared knowledge very useful. Thanks guys!! If you have the time and inclination photos would be really appreciated but as things stand the shared info is appreciated - Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce79 Posted June 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2007 (edited) Well here are a few pics of my finished product. The end link on the bracelet got a little bent in the process, but it's hardly noticeable once the bracelet is on and is tucked up under the end link. The only issue that resulted from this mod is the curved portion of the end link is pressing against the bottom of the bezel which is making it hard to turn. I shaved some metal off the curved portion last night with my bezel which helped but I might have to do more in the near future. This morning though, the bezel turned pretty freely. That may just be one of the advantages of loose end link bracelets...more room for play and to adapt to your wrist/watch. Just wiped it down with a cape cod cloth, can't wait to get it all scratched up for the early 16610 look Edited June 14, 2007 by bruce79 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raijor Posted June 14, 2007 Report Share Posted June 14, 2007 It looks fine to me - I hope I can achieve the same outcome. Cheers Well here are a few pics of my finished product. The end link on the bracelet got a little bent in the process, but it's hardly noticeable once the bracelet is on and is tucked up under the end link. The only issue that resulted from this mod is the curved portion of the end link is pressing against the bottom of the bezel which is making it hard to turn. I shaved some metal off the curved portion last night with my bezel which helped but I might have to do more in the near future. This morning though, the bezel turned pretty freely. That may just be one of the advantages of loose end link bracelets...more room for play and to adapt to your wrist/watch. Just wiped it down with a cape cod cloth, can't wait to get it all scratched up for the early 16610 look Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce79 Posted June 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2007 Just a note, I've been wearing my sub around today and it may just be me, but the loose end link bracelet makes the head of the watch look bigger. I've always noticed that the head of my tw classic sub seemed just a touch smaller than the gen (I know the bezel is) and I've always had a SEL bracelet attached...but now that this new bracelet is on there, the case looks huge. Definitely a god thing in my book. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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