Some buying guidlines for the bay

[llsteve80]

I've seen some members posting about recent unsatisfactory transactions that would have been red flagged by more veteran buyers. I hope to share some knowledge to try to nip the next on in the bud.

Ebay can be a great source for genuine watches and parts , as long as you realize the deal of a lifetime probably isn't going to be made on the internet. Here are some of the guidelines I've made for myself, and so far I haven't been burned.

The most important thing to me is research. Knowing exactly what I'm looking for is more important than getting it today. Search through the completed listings, read the descriptions and try to understand why 2 similar things have sold for a significant difference. That will help you gauge the value of whatever it is you are looking to bid on currently. The ebay market value is pretty consistent and once you understand it you'll be able to bid with confidence.

Obviously, if something sounds too good to be true, it isn't true. If there are only 5 hours left on a submariner, for instance, and there are no bids yet, there is a good reason. The people who know watches haven't bid on it, and I wouldn't either. Take a step back and look at the big picture instead of the low price, and you will most likely begin to see the reason nobody else is interested.

People can take any picture they want and put it on the auction ad. If all of the pictures are different sizes and aspect ratio, it seems likely that they have been pilfered from other peoples listings. Most people leave their camera on the same setting while taking all of the pictures, so they should all be similar.

There are some keywords and phrases that make a listing scream "fraud". Among them are:

"Re-listed due to non paying bidder"

"I don't know anything about watches"

"This was my uncles/dads/brothers etc."

"replacement"

"custom made"

ANY kind of disclaimer as to authenticity.

For some reason, and I'm not sure why, many scammers choose user names with a feminine air to them. Maybe it has something to do with appearing more innocent, I don't know, but I have noticed that to be a trend. It could be the same guy for all I know.

There should be some kind of statement or guarantee of authenticity somewhere in the listing.

Then there are other things to look at as well, for instance, if there are tons of pictures spiced up with boxes, booklets, paperwork etc, or pictures of every engraving/symbol on the watch, but no movement picture, it seems like they are trying to distract from other telltale signs of a counterfeit. Most serious sellers will have at least somewhat clear photos. Blurry or too far away is a big no-no for me. Watch out with stock photos mixed in with the rest of them too.

Obviously be aware of low or 0 feedback. Everyone has to start somewhere, but I would rather let someone else with more money take the chance.

Feedback can be misleading. If someone is selling aftermarket parts, and coming clean in emails made prior to bids, then the buyers understand what they are getting and leave a positive when they receive the item. Negative breeds negative, so some buyers would rather be placated with a partial refund than take the chance on getting a negative theirself, so good feedback does not always indicate a trustworthy or genuine seller.

Research the seller, look at their feedback, including as a buyer and feedback left for others. You just may find that they are buying aftermarket parts and listing them as genuine as a seller. Of course, they can buy on a separate account, but surprisingly not everyone thinks of this.

Ask questions. Make sure things match up, like the case model and movement number. Ask if they guarantee the item as authentic with a refund option if it isn't. No garuntee, no deal.

Make sure they accept paypal, and see what the buyer protection is for that item. That doesn't say anything about the item in question, but being protected up to $2,000 provides some security on your behalf. Never send a money order, check or wire transfer unless you completely trust the seller, personally I would never do it just to be safe.

Its nice to have a credit card attached to your paypal account too, just in case. As a last resort, if something iffy happens, you can stop the payment on the CC, which automatically opens a dispute. You will also have that amount of money frozen on your paypal account, but it is faster than trying to get paypal to start it. I think you have to wait a certain period of time.

If something tells you in your gut that you may end up getting burned, don't bid. Feel free to ask members here what they think. We're here to help, not to try to outbid you if you show us something that may go for a low price. Trust me, if we're interested, there is a good chance we saw it already anyway.

Thats all I can think of for now, but I think its a good starting point. Trust your gut and ask questions. Take a step back and know what your bidding on, and don't let the now mentality cloud your judgment.