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I am getting predictable. But I hope you like the pictures of this watch anyways

Sorry, I only know who makes the best submariner.

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As per genuine, the crystal is not raised from the bezel.

You are going up quite a bit in price when you start adding a 1570. The cheapest I've seen them is around 900-1000 USD, and they all need a service. What you probably need to do is find another watchmaker!! There are some guys out there who have great skills repairing, overhauling movements, changing crystals, dials, hands, etc. But this is all with genuine watches and genuine parts, which all FIT. When you get into rep modding and franken building, what you have to remember is what you see isn't always what you get. Parts look like they will fit, but they are a little too big, or a little too small and they just don't work. Some projects are almost impossible to achieve, because the parts just don't match up. If you don't already have the experience, or your watchmaker lacks experience with reps, you are going to make a lot of mistakes by" trial and error" parts sourcing. If someone tells you a particular movement or dial or bezel won't work with a certain case, or model, he probably knows, because he's already tried it and it didn't work!! Possibly the thing for you to do is try to find someone who has experience putting together a nice DJ, let them do the modding work. most of the guys here on the forum that are really good at a particular model or brand, like Rolexaddict with vintage Rolex GMT builds, sneed12 who does great GMTIIC's, jmb with his Explorers, and lots of others have already tried most of the combinations and they know already what will work, and what probably won't. It's very rewarding to look down at your wrist and see a beautifully modded watch, that looks 99% of the gen, keeps as good a time as the gen, but cost 20% or less than the gen. On the other hand it's very frustrating when a project either just won't come together, or suddenly you realize that you are way, way over budget, and that 500.00 USD watch is now over 1000.00 USD and you still aren't finished. Hooking up with a good watchmaker/modder will save you a lot of frustration and probably be less expensive, because you won't end up with a boatload of parts that were tried and didn't work. P.S. Ditch that 93150 bracelet. It's way to big and bulky for a DJ. It's great on a 1680, 5513, etc. but not a DJ. Find a nice rep jubilee (mymanmatt) and put that on your watch when you get it finished. And if you insist on a 1570, there is one for sale right now on the parts sales forum 1570 and an autowind mechanism from a 1560. Looks pretty nice. It would add a pretty good bit to your build but it's real, not Memorex!!

This is an incredible picture, very well done. I think I need to stop taking photos with my smartphone

But brush the hand quickly and just once, avoid too much contact with the lume

Nice work! Q tip with white spirit or nail polish remover

Lava today on a hot day

Still love my DSSD

Going Russian:

Beautiful Lange!

The keyless works parts are the same, also the part no. 721 is the annular balance and it works in everything from 2801 on thru 2836. The 24 and 36 both beat at 28.8 bph. Are you sure that you are setting the parts in function before you put it together. In your photos at the top of this post, I can see that the set lever and corrector lever are not in the proper position to one another. There is a small pin on the point of the set lever. When the kw is placed in setting position that pin is to fit into the hook-shaped slot on the corrector lever. Also ther is a hook shaped spring on the bridge that covers it all and it has to be manually placed into position against the tab on the end of the yoke. I think I have a pic of that. If not, things to do not work predictably. There are three pins on the bottom of the set lever. The large one sets in the hole in the plate and provides the pivot. The one toward the middle rides in the slot on the stem, the one on the end works the corrector lever. Note that this is the kw in setting position (stem pulled out to second detent.)

Pics provided by Pr0digy30. The problem he and I are having is putting the bridge back on. . .