Mills

Same thing happened to me with just the one damn screw missing. What I've read about the 292 though, sounds like that is your first of four to go as the rep screws simply don't stay in.

I'll find out tomorrow as I'm away from home. Pete did the same and they fitted great, I hope I get the same result.

Where are you based? Generally it takes between 7-14 days which feels more like 7-14 months

Lovely watch and a great strap. Well done.

Ok so an update on this. I scratched the glass to the point of it being dull. I'll either have to buy a replacement crystal or add the internals to my spares pile. Oh well, nothing ventured - nothing gained.

Thanks for the advice Pete. Ordered from Panatime and arrived today. Damn quick service. The $20 shipping charge was way too annoying for just a couple of screws and bars so I had to pad the envelope out with a new strap ;-)

I bought the noob 005 a few days before that 111 teardown and kicked myself. Congrats on the great watch, I've been wearing my 005 a lot since getting it and am so impressed by how solid it is.

After reading lots of posts about Radiomir screws dropping out, I finally lost a case screw from my 288. I noticed on Panatime that they have this http://www.panatime.com/setof2scforr.html . Would that work OK?

I might have to give that a try. I tried using a cape cod and it didn't shift it. Damn this stuff is hard to remove. Thanks for all the advice chaps.

Up until a couple of months ago I had a Porsche and the worst thing I could think of doing would be to draw attention to the fact by having a watch, suitcase, pen, laptop bag or item of clothing with the logo on it.

I have both the older version with purple AR and the latest ultimate version without. I'm thinking of selling the older version or giving it to a mate but before I do, I wanted to strip the AR as it would annoy me every time I saw it on his wrist :-) Thanks for the tip on the SS polish. Which product do you use?

I've been searching around the forum looking for the best way to strip AR but I've not found all the information I need to confidently get this done. I've read that stainless steel polish is the way forward but there are lots of different brands and types so I wanted to get some clarification. I've also read that you have to be really careful when polishing your watch with a cape cod not to get it on the AR as it will strip it, but that's what I want to accomplish so would a cape cod do the job? Couple of other points: I want to keep the crystal in the watch as it's mineral and the 253's are prone to shattering so I don't want to use a press on it. I'll remove the mechanism to strip the AR on the inside of the glass. The watch has a purple AR applied. Not sure if this is important when deciding the approach. I'll take photos of the process and post the results to help other noobs like myself accomplish this in the future.

So I opened the watch up, removed the mechanism and saw exactly the symptom you described. The dial was slightly loose and 1-2mm away from the mechanism. Glued it down and everything seems to be working perfectly again. Little bit of a nerve wracking experience but enjoyable and made me so happy when the minute hand carried on past the hour after fixing it. Putting the watch back together was a right pain in the &rse, getting the retainers back in was incredibly fiddly but patience prevailed. Thanks for the advice.

I've got one. Purchased it from a member over at replica watch guide (original thread). Really nice watch but I'd say the 288 is a better rep due to the crystal. I put a Strap works strap on and it looks the nuts. Sorry I've not got any photos to hand at the moment though.

Is that in response to me saying Trustytime? I purchased the Noob version from him. Look at the title of the thread :-/

I got mine from trustytime. He had it in stock as of four days ago.

I went to the AD around the corner from my office today and looked at a 111N they had in stock. It had a similar distortion to the pictures above. Maybe not quite as severe but it's difficult to tell until I get my watch in hand to compare.

Translation: The H 005 CG is closer to the gen than the N make. As far as I'm concerned, wait for the V2. All crystals Rep have this distortion because they are only mineral crystal quartz with a film on their surface that give the apparent hardness. Genuine crystals are built on the basis of corundum, sapphire high quality and transparency and with a minimum of distortion. If someone can do a good translation of this, I appreciate it. ----- But I thought the H and the Noob used sapphire crystal? The 5 definitely doesn't have such a clear crystal as my 288 and my gen watches.

Not sure. My H factory 176 has exactly the same distortion though.

Thanks. I read on another post that the hands and dial are really delicate and easy to mark from the H factory. Was it easy to do?

It's the H version you want. Trusty, Angus, Josh, Robert and other trusted dealers have it. I got mine from Andrew but they are all selling the same watch.

Unfortunately the Noob versions have a bigger gap than the H version. I went with the Noob though as it has the high beat version of the 6497. If it really does start to grate on me, I could always search out a replacement. Interested to see how it looks in the flesh rather than under the microscope. Speaking of modding, anyone successfully modded one of these to close the gap? Looking at other Pams I have, I have no idea how I could do it but necessity is the mother of invention.

I've got a black gator with deployant waiting to go on but the more I think about it the more I move towards going brown on this one. Any opinions on this watch boys tang strap?

I've had a 176 for a few months now. CG is perfect, no gap at all between the CG and the pin(?). The Ti effect is 1:1 to the gen as far as I can tell and the lume is excellent. After wearing mine for a while I went into an AD and tried the gen on and couldn't really tell any difference. They are supposed to come with a Ti buckle but for some reason I got a steel one. Didn't bother doing anything about it as I had a deployant waiting to go on it. If I were to purchase again I think I'd go down the 177 route just because I think the dial needs the seconds at 9 but overall I really like it.

I think you might be right sir. Playing with it more, I noticed that it ran fine when the minute and the hour hands were far away from each other but then as the minute hand got close to the hour, it began to stick. I've ordered a set of precision screwdrivers so I can take the movement out and check the positioning of the hands as I think one is touching the other. This 176 of mine has really been great to learn on. First I had the crown stem loose and now this