tomhorn

If only Stilty was still around ... Raffle's Time #2 rings have been good for me. I built a 1016 using a gen 16014 case and a 5514 using HH's case. They both needed slight modifications, but the diameters were good. Also for anyone wanting to do a build that the gen has a 3135, I think the TC spacer will work well, as will Yuki's.

Well, a 78350 is not a rivet bracelet, it's an oyster bracelet. A 19" rivet bracelet would be a 7205. This is what the clasp should look like:

Tinico made a really nice 2 register chronograph with a Seagull T-19 movement awhile back. It was one of their first offerings. Most of their new stuff looks like they are just buying the standard parts you can find everywhere on eBay and putting them together and selling at a decent price.

I would agree with the others on not throwing a lot of money at a DW 7750 based Daytona. If you want, you could buy a gen 7835 bracelet, gen T-21, and gen crown/tube, which could all be swapped over to a v72 based build if you decide to pursue it later.

I thought I was a math geek, and then saw Common Core math. I no longer think that.

Scotch Watch frequently has them. http://www.scotchwatch.com/IWCparts.html

Concepta is gone, and even if he weren't, he wasn't the modder. Keep in mind, the A7750 hands need to be modified to work (unless you have a very old 21.6k movement). Also make sure you use the ETA day and date wheels. In the US, you have several choices. Personally I would reach out to to member "misieped" and see if he can do what you need. PBDad is another choice, but he has an outside watchsmith that would probably do the work (which means it could take longer), or go to Vaccum (aka Vac's Modification Shop) if you also want the dial re-lumed,

Using a gen movement in a franken DD build is not the most financially sound decision you could make. If you ever have to sell the watch, you'll take a huge loss, or will have to part it out. Better off going to MMM and having him build you one with an ETA 2836.

Comex day today ....

Ubi built one. There are some case mods that need to be made, but it can be done.

Daytona day ...

If it's a 21j, then I'd buy a DG3804 and swap it out. I'm just not sure if you will also have to buy hands. Someone else will have to chime in on that.

Since it is a GMT, then you would have a 2836 (either Asian or ETA), or possibly a DG movement. The best way to get it running again is to get it serviced.

To do a modern Daytona with a fully working movement, you will need to find a Zenith 3019/400 (or Ebel 134) movement. These are neither cheap, or easy to find. The only problem with this build is I am unsure of a full gold case that will work. Normally people will buy Phong's case and do a 16520 stainless build. Matt is the right guy to handle the ladies DateJust. As for the 1655, look up Denimhead's posts. He's built several different versions. It's another tough one to get right.

If it's a fake, then I want one. It looks better than the NY Watch guy one I have on mine.

Subtract the "pre" ...

Never buy anything just because it's the most expensive. Price rarely indicates quality. More directly, do not buy this particular watch, as it's well known that the modified to look like a 3135 version of the 2836 is a problem movement. If you truly want the best, then try to find one of the old WM9's in a M2M sale, or start with a TC 16610 and buy the necessary parts (gen or rep, it's up to you) to convert it over to a 16613.

Did you call the manufacturer, or Costco? Costco warranties the heck out of everything. Other than electronics, they'll take a return on anything for life.

Lello is no longer around, so your only hope is to find one on a M2M sale. You can post a WTB to see if anyone still has one laying around.

Concepta was producing the 3714's primarily. In order to franken that model, it took a lot of case modifications to make a gen movement fit. I suspect you would be up against the same thing with an Ingy chrono.

https://rwg.cc/profile/31422-athaya

I just PM'd him here to buy mine.

The movements are different sizes, so the crown positions will be different. I don't follow Breitling, so I can't comment on which version would be correct. If that's important to you, I'd do some research.

I had both of mine serviced and the date mechanisms removed because they were going in no-date builds (1016,5514). I got lucky, because both were running great prior to my shipping them off though. There was an eBay seller in the Philippines that always seemed to have several "Swiss Military" watches for sale.