tomhorn

Which case? Different people have different specialties. If you do a search on the watch you want worked on, you will probably find someone who has done it.

Hess Fine Art is a very reputable seller here in St. Pete. Have been to their store several times.

Part of that would depend on which version of the BK Sub you have (there were three). The last version was IIRC about $575 for the base watch. The added parts would have brought you up to close to $1,000 all-in at the time. Now the bad .... You have a TC bracelet you say has some damage (and from the one picture we can see doesn't fit particularly well), a damaged dial, and it either runs poorly or you've made a bad joke about that. You also have more competition for quality 16610's available new (JF), and any TC v6 or V7 that's out there will be better overall. Given the condition you are stating your watch is in currently, you are probably in the $600-$700 range (assuming this is a v3 with the ETA 2824).

I think much of it still holds true. The best base watch to start is either the BK WM9 or TC. They are just tougher to find because they are no longer made. If you don't want to go that route, then the JF or ST cases are the most reasonable base to start from. IF you pick up an entire JF, you would get the SH3135, and then you could use gen hands (solving one of your stated issues), and gen DW.

You really should do your own research. All of these builds have some compromises, and only you know what will be acceptable for you. I rarely like to send people elsewhere, but here's the best collection of posts I have seen on the 16613. https://forum.replica-watch.info/forum/rolex-tudor-replicas/235295-a-guide-to-16613-builds-frankening

I look at one in particular nearly every day ....

If you decide to sell the v72, let me know. I have a spare case and dial just waiting on me to start another project ....

Offrei or Cousins UK for the pushers. WatchNY is still on eBay and he is back to offering the bezels from time to time.

Personally I wouldn't do the conversion unless your v72 has to go in for service anyway, and you can find the parts for a great price. I'm also not sure that the gen pushers are worth the price you'll pay. Rest of your choices are good. Dials are hit and miss, but you'll want to go for one of the VN dials unless you can find one of the original batch of DW's. You just missed a great black "big red" VN dial for sale that already had the gen coronet installed. Might want to check with the seller (sputim) to see where he acquired it, or if he has any others. Obviously the hard part is finding the v72 without spending insane money. If you look through my Daytona build thread there are some hints at brands and alternative movement IDs to help locate one.

My HH cased franken says hello ... it really is a great case .... especially for the money!

My brand new Accutron with an ETA 7750 for $286 (linked below) was probably my best buy. Wanted to swap the movement into my IWC 3717 but the watch was too nice. Also got both my 2846's for my Rolex builds from donor "Swiss Military" watches. I don't think they were NOS, but bargains nonetheless at $28 each.

Do some research under the "Rolex Area" and "Watches, Clothing, Parts and Accessories".

I get nothing when looking up the item number, but $3,500 USD for a 2824 powered dive watch is not even remotely close to a value for the money.

Unfortunately, you've picked the wrong brand then.

Accurate? No. Their movements are too complicated. The Datograph Chronos were gorgeous, just not all that accurate. Not sure if they are still available. http://www.marywatch.net/goods.php?id=872 If you want something more passable, the regular Langematick (non tourby), Saxonia and 1815 are all OK. They are simple watches that can use a standard Chinese movement. The Richard Lange was probably the best, but not sure if it's still made.