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About e30m3

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  1. Thanks for the pictures and the comments. I'm aware the Reds tan that much (i noted the fact in my original post), and I note that the white dial you attached has tanned. I'd be fine with that level of tanning. To my eyes, there's a significant color difference even between your attached pic and my dial - but that's the beauty of this hobby, to each their own! In any case, I wasn't meaning to debate whether or not the dial would pass (I'm sure there are gens that are brown!) -- for this particular build, I'm going for more of a "it's been hanging in the sock drawer" look than an "it's been used as intended for four decades" one. Thus, I'm looking for that early-onset creamy white. And so we'll break out the bleach this weekend. If it works, great! And if it doesn't we'll all have something to laugh about. Out of curiosity - method of choice for said "dark spots?" It's something I've been meaning to try on the "5513." Edit - definitely doing the Krylon matte finish when it's done, thanks for that. May even help conceal whatever I botch with the bleach!
  2. That's a serious sparkle... Alright I'm going to take the weekend to build myself up to this endeavor. If I screw things up horribly I will list it fs as a custom "Nanuq modded dial." 😁
  3. Seems you're a braver man than I. Have you done this? Any results pics?
  4. Here we go. It's for a white 1680 - in my experience, the real ones just don't tan this much. Not yet, anyway (I know some of the red subs have). It appears slightly yellow in these photos - that's more of a flat tan in person. I want something more like the attached screenshot.
  5. Yeah you read that right. Zillions of ways to age a dial, but how about un-aging? I got a Vietnam dial that looks great but the indices are just too brown. Anyone have any experience with this? I was debating diluting some white paint and going for it with oilers...
  6. I hesitate to type this truth but I uh... sanded... the outer diameter to make it fit my retainer. (Don’t panic @automatico - I came up with a precise way of doing so (which I’ll admit now slips my mind). but anyway, I figured since your ring was wider the 20 might just be a fit. Mm... Sternkreuz?
  7. Avoid glue if you can - Try messaging "nostalgia-2000" on the bay. He used to sell the complete assembly for $100 or so. No guarantee that'll work, of course... You may have to polish but it gets you a more accurate bezel, too. Alternatively, I had luck with the GS PA462-20A (which is also a killer superdome). That should be just a tad wider if I recall. Maybe better to start by dropping $10 vs $100 after all...
  8. Regrettably, Ruby isn't doing white dials anymore - and the alignment of Yuki's lettering... once you see it, you can't unsee it. What's Bi Vin? Can you send me a pic? Thanks!
  9. Bumping this from forever ago because the question remains... anyone still doing a good white 1680 dial? (@scooterboy - that looks great! I haven’t seen the seller since, though.)
  10. Actually, that's a great point. I don't know how that didn't occur to me; because both the hour and the minute counter seem sunken. And since the hour can't be sunken, it must be that the hands need a nip, as you suggest. It does sound scary, but I'm out of options. Impossible to buy "IWC" hands separately for the A7750 movement. Tons for Valjoux, etc. I'd take any other ideas, though - what about somehow tightening the clearance of the dial spacer? (The wave washer - compress it a bit; any room to do so?)
  11. I have a fake IWC 3717 with a serviced A7750 movement - I had the dial off to fix the hour counter and when I put it all back together, I pushed the hands onto the subdial counters WITHOUT a proper 7750 jewel supporting holder. Nothing fell out, but it seems, now, that the hands sit right on top of (touching) the dials. I now have a correct 7750 jewel supporting holder. But if I install the subdial hands with enough pressure that they work (and don't slip when resetting the chrono, etc), they're stick on the dial, stopping the movement. I think one of two things might have happened and am hoping someone has an idea: 1. Is it possible that I pushed the jewels PARTIALLY out? that is, they sit further down, now and need to be pushed back up? Is that even a thing? If so, how do I get them pushed back up? 2. Maybe the hands need to be re-staked from having been installed too many times? Thanks!
  12. I didn't see that one - can you link the listing? Thanks!
  13. Only one I'm aware of is Yuki's, which is too incorrect for me. Ruby doesn't do one, and there's not a mysterious eBay one to try. Anyone have a source (with a link, ideally) that I haven't considered?
  14. Wow I swear that listing wasn't there when I posted the question. Is the only issue the open "6" on the "26"? Has anyone tried to close it with ink/paint etc? And thanks much for the offers/checking, guys. I'm gonna try buying one of these on eBay.
  15. As the subject suggests... As far as I'm aware, Polexpete overlays are long gone. I've checked eBay but each is slightly incorrect. Looking for silver with flat 3's and open 6's and 9's, to lay over an ETA 2846. Thanks in advance.
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