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Actually, that's a great point. I don't know how that didn't occur to me; because both the hour and the minute counter seem sunken. And since the hour can't be sunken, it must be that the hands need a nip, as you suggest. It does sound scary, but I'm out of options. Impossible to buy "IWC" hands separately for the A7750 movement. Tons for Valjoux, etc. I'd take any other ideas, though - what about somehow tightening the clearance of the dial spacer? (The wave washer - compress it a bit; any room to do so?)

I have a fake IWC 3717 with a serviced A7750 movement - I had the dial off to fix the hour counter and when I put it all back together, I pushed the hands onto the subdial counters WITHOUT a proper 7750 jewel supporting holder. Nothing fell out, but it seems, now, that the hands sit right on top of (touching) the dials. I now have a correct 7750 jewel supporting holder. But if I install the subdial hands with enough pressure that they work (and don't slip when resetting the chrono, etc), they're stick on the dial, stopping the movement. I think one of two things might have happened and am hopi

I didn't see that one - can you link the listing? Thanks!

Only one I'm aware of is Yuki's, which is too incorrect for me. Ruby doesn't do one, and there's not a mysterious eBay one to try. Anyone have a source (with a link, ideally) that I haven't considered?

Wow I swear that listing wasn't there when I posted the question. Is the only issue the open "6" on the "26"? Has anyone tried to close it with ink/paint etc? And thanks much for the offers/checking, guys. I'm gonna try buying one of these on eBay.

As the subject suggests... As far as I'm aware, Polexpete overlays are long gone. I've checked eBay but each is slightly incorrect. Looking for silver with flat 3's and open 6's and 9's, to lay over an ETA 2846. Thanks in advance.

Thanks for the hints. It stays on with the (cartel) retainer ring over it. Doesn't feel terribly tight, but it does stay on. I'll pressure test after I finish thinning the case a bit and report back (not that anyone asked). @automatico - a Reproduction. Noted. 😀

I've been talked down from this on an earlier build, but here we are again: I'm just too cheap to drop $900 on a fake case. So, I've got a cartel 1680/5513 case here for my budget 1680 project and I've tried both the Sternkruz and Clark's 25-127 crystals. Both are too loose, but the Clark's is closer - it moves JUUUUUST BARELY around the case neck (I'm not sure you could get a hair in between the two). I know I can glue the crap out of it and get it to stay on there, but what if I want something that pressure tests? There has to be some solution, doesn't there?

Ah-hah. I get it now. I don't know how I missed that it's an ST2555. I'll order a new one and swap over the "blued" screws and such. Anything else to look out for as far as fitment? Are parts going to go flying when I take off the datewheel plate? Thanks!

But where? it's been decorated to resemble the real deal and it has a display back, so I can't just pop in a 23j...

Sorry for the delay - here's the balance wheel front and back. Sorry for the crappy mobile photos!

Perfect, I’ll buy a couple. Thanks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pearl popped out of my TC V6 16610 - current consensus on best replacement? I see wholsaleoutlet has them for $15, but they're hit or miss, so thought to ask. TIA.

I've got a Luminor Marina 1950 3 Days (Ceramic, Brown Dial) here with a broken balance wheel (the jewel to the mainplate seems to have cracked largely away, and I don't think the spindle is quite as long as it should be (the end of the staff seems to have chipped off along with the jewel - don't ask). I can't seem to find a balance wheel that matches anywhere, so my questions are: 1. What's the movement based on? Can I buy a new Shanghai (or Seagull, etc) movement to cannibalize the balance wheel, or has this been altered to look like a P.9000? 2. Or better yet - is there anyo

Yeah I suppose I was begging the question a bit there. Just seems like another level of dishonesty - outright lying, I mean. Not that the ethics of this hobby aren't up for debate in general, just that this is more than a click or two further down the bulIshit hole.