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automatico

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automatico last won the day on October 3

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About automatico

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  1. automatico

    A genuine 2003 TW Best 16610 (eddielee) at 15yrs old

    "I do know that if you change the crown, you will most likely have to change the case tube." "There are rep crowns out there which are good copies, but I don't know where you find them these days." I have changed out quite a few replica crowns and tubes over the years and you are right...the case tube has to match the crown because most of the older crowns are not oem spec. One type that shows up a lot is the steel capped crown with a brass inner body. They may or may not have the O ring on the outside of the case tube but they must have the matching case tube. Afaik none of them are oem spec but they are reliable. Water resistance can be hit or miss depending on how good the case tube to case sealing is along with the crown gaskets. Some watches have essentially the same tube/crown combo but with solid steel crowns. Another good crown/case tube combo is the set that came in the original F520117 'noobmariners'. They are not oem spec (the crown threads are different) but they are solid steel (no cap) and reliable. Some of the old D320840 'fake noob' cases have good crown/tube sets although they are not the same as the F520117 'genuine noob' parts. Both are hard to find now though. The D320840 'fake noob' cases look a lot like the F520117 'genuine noob' cases and many were sold as 'noobmariners' but they had 'wokky' reflectors (rehaut) and used a different crystal setup. Some of the case tubes in any of these cases can be a real pain to remove without damaging them. I usually remove the movement and gaskets, put a metal rod through the inside of the case tube and heat the rod to loosen things up first. Heating the rod will heat the tube enough to make the glue/sealant turn loose without damage to crystal gaskets etc...if you are careful. "TC used to have them, but he's gone." His crowns and tubes were pretty good and were oem spec. I have a few TC crowns on project watches with ST case tubes. Only trouble I have had with TC crowns is the tension spring in the 'telescopic clutch' sometimes becomes weak. "I used to buy used gen crowns for $30-40 and then install a wholesaleoutlet990 case tube." The best fix imho.
  2. automatico

    The Noob and His Rolex Build.

    Very nice project! I admire your perseverance. Some comments that might save someone a little bit of trouble if they want to put one of these together: "...or do I just get a new case? like a 1675 or 1655?" I cut a DW '1680' case down to thin the lugs for a Milgauss project but stopped before removing the crown guards because the Mg dial is so big (29.2mm) and the DW case is made for a 26.5mm dial. Still have the case but never removed the crown guards because cutting the dial seat out to accommodate the Mg dial might leave the small outer markers partially covered and cutting the dial window out to uncover the markers would weaken the 'rehaut' area. Did not try a 1655 or 1675 type case. They have 27.3mm dials, still too small for a Mg dial but closer than a 1680. "...he was able to broach the hands but in his words its very delicate." Here are some common hand sizes for reference: rlx 3035/3135 1.40 x 1.00 x 0.18mm rlx 1530/1570/1580 130 x 80 x 20 rlx 1225 1.30 x 0.85 x 0.20mm Eterna 12892/Eta 28xx 1.50 x 0.90 x 0.25mm It is not too big a jump from the rlx 15xx to Eta minute hands but the hour hands might be a stretch. (toot case) "I thought this would be plug and play but sadly the dial opening is just ever so slightly too big for the Milgauss dial." The toot dial is a whopper. I had a couple of them a years ago but never measured the dial. Dial sizes on 'mix and match' projects can be a huge stumbling block. "It’s urban lore that the Tudor Jumbo and Milgauss 1019 share the same mid case and bezel." Lore it is. They are close but not exact going by this project. I had seen a few of these projects at watch shows in the past but did not pay much attention to them or ask any questions. Used genuine Mg dials could be found back then but I never bought one and D-D toots were going for $250 or so. Saw a lot of 1018 turned into '1016' too. "Who knew a simple 3 hander would be such a challenge?" That is the question of the day. "Working on the front of a movement is pretty straight forward, it's the back that scares me." I reset Eta hand setting parts (aka 'keyless works' on TZ) from the back sometimes to keep from r/r the hands/dial/calendar works. 1...Remove the autowind assembly. 2...Let the MS power off by turning the crown just enough to allow the 'click' to lose tension, then trip the click with sharpened pegwood etc while holding the crown to keep it from running away. Next, let the crown turn slowly while the power is released...or let the watch run down first. 3...Remove the ratchet wheel (left hand thread). 4...Remove the three MS barrel bridge screws...all are the same size. 5...Remove the bridge...do not lose the hack lever and remember how it fits. Eta 28xx... Rule 1...Always remove the stem while in hand setting position. When inserting the stem you can... Plan A...Gently push the detent button in a little bit and push the stem in while turning it slowly. Plan B...Cram it in and hope for the best (the stem!). Rule 2...Always pull the stem out to setting position and push it back into winding position a couple times after inserting the stem to make sure it is latched before putting it all back together. That's the ABC's of it.
  3. automatico

    MD2020 resurfaced

    "...for some reasons I thought it was Saturday today." That's a new one. I might be fuzzy on the year but I always know what day it is. "...he got our guys to the tune of over 20 K in watches." Hope this dickweed gets his in the end. The hind end.
  4. automatico

    Doubt about 70216 bracelet

    "So it is a fantasy reference number?" As far as I know. If you type '70216 rolex bracelet' in a search you will get all kinds of hits but no genuine bracelets with that number on it.
  5. automatico

    Doubt about 70216 bracelet

    Here is the scoop: https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=252199 I have a few of these bracelets from 12 or 15 years back and they have sheet metal 'sel' type end links and solid mid links with screws. I use them with an unsigned clasp on project watches with no name Raffles dials. They are Ok for around $35 or $40 new signed, unsigned around $20. The screws tend to be hard to run in and out, I usually have to heat them over a candle flame to loosen the screws.
  6. automatico

    Where to get phong case?

    "I have both Yuki 5513 case and Phong 6538. IMHO they are both great. Phong however is double the price of Yuki." I have Yuki 5512 and 5513 cases and they are super nice too. This being an old thread, here are a few prices: YUKI CASES 8-2018 6542 GMT CASE/DIAL/HANDS...$1000 5510 CASE/DIAL/HANDS...$1000 1675 GMT CASE ONLY...$650 1665 SD DRSD CASE BACK OR 1665 SD REG. CB...$750 5512/13...$650 IF AVAILABLE TUDOR 9411...$650 I looked today and they have changed the offerings. The 6542 and two 1665 models are still available, same prices.
  7. automatico

    Datejust Dial

    "Would the T SWISS MADE T also indicate that the case does not have the lugs drilled through?' Here is some info: https://watchchest.com/learn/rolex-history-descriptions/history-datejust.html From Rolex Passion Report: 1998- 2000, LumiNova was invented in 1993 and patented in 1995; Nemoto & Co. Ltd. was contracted in 1998 to provide LumiNova to Switzerland. 2000 – 2008, Super Luminova, a improved version of Luminova, a material that has the same properties as tritium but is not radioactive. 2008 – now, Chroma Light, the new blue-ish colored Super Luminova that has been in use since Rolex patented it.
  8. automatico

    Solid 18k Oyster Bracelets

    The ST bracelets are very high quality but they also have a high price. With gold around $1200 troz, prices are going to be high even on lighter models from any seller. I was looking for a submariner style gold case a while back but they have gone from $1200 in the mid 1990s to $4k+ today, putting me out of the game. The problem with gold cases and bracelets is they usually sell new for 2 to 4 times what the gold is worth and this blows the prices up because of today's high gold prices. When you go to sell one the buyer wants to know how much it weighs and tries to pay scrap price or less.
  9. automatico

    Legit check?

    "Salvatore, take a close-up pic of the Rolex writing in the rehaut." It's an older model with numbers on the case between the lugs as shown in one of the pictures above.
  10. "Not much activity on this forum..." Most of us are busy advising world leaders. Or watching porn. "Of course you can't add a 3135 date disc on a 2824?" "1) Construction is VERY different." "2) ETA is about 3mm closer to the dial age." All True. Here is why: When someone says a 3135 date wheel will fit an Eta they usually mean they both are made to turn in the same direction. Genuine 15xx and 3035 rlx dw turn the wrong way to be used on an Eta. A 3135 dw is a whole lot different from an Eta 28xx dw as far as being a direct swap. A genuine spec 3135 dw can be used as an overlay on a 2836 but you will probably need to trim the teeth inside the 3135 dw. There is not as much room on a 2824 between the top plate and dial as on a 2836 and this is why most watches that come with a dwo use a 2836. The date also flips immediately on a 2836 same as on a genuine watch. Another thing is the 2836 uses a taller canon pinion, hour wheel, and center sweep second post than a 2824 and this gives more room between the dial and hands. As for 3135 clones, they are another animal all together compared to any Eta. I have never worked on a 3135 clone. "But maybe it's better try and find a Noob v6 DWO or TC v4 DWO." Very good advice.
  11. automatico

    Legit check?

    "Looks good to me." Agree. "The 3130 is the upgraded movement- hence the M behind the model number." Definitely upgraded. The cal 3000 was made out of ground up chicken livers, gizzards, beaks, and rooster dix.
  12. automatico

    1570/5 GMT parts...

    "...I just paid $3k for my 1570 GMT movement in mint condition." Not bad in today's market. Imagine paying nearly half that much for a hunk of rust and a ratty dial.
  13. I am out of my bailiwick here as most of my experience is with the rlx brand but if the changes are basically cosmetic, the question that comes to mind is...do the movement modifications (cover plates etc) have any effect on the basic movement? Since the troubles experienced with most A7750 movements are because of no oil on critical parts, dirt, rough handling etc, my guess is it would be basically the same watch as before as long as the movement is Ok mechanically to start with. The 'suicide @ 6' models are in another category and should not be considered in the equation. Having an A7750 with standard 6-9-12 sub dials is one big advantage imho. One other problem with a lot of replicas is crown/case tube trouble but it usually shows up on specific models. I have always liked Heuer/Tag Heuer watches but the only T-H watches I have now are quartz time and date dive models. I have owned a few mechanicals in the past...Pasadena, Camaro, Regatta etc...all long gone. Sold them too soon.
  14. automatico

    1570/5 GMT parts...

    Winning bid US $1,381.99 (!!) Proof that there is one born every minute.
  15. automatico

    1570/5 GMT parts...

    "Looks pretty wasted, not worth it?" "I agree- that baby is beyond hope." Yep. The calendar spacer, 24 hour wheel, 12 hour wheel, calendar wheel, and maybe a couple other parts are about all of the special GMT parts that might be usable. The balance wheel would be Ok and the hairspring looks good from what you can see, but it is really hard to tell about the hs. It probably needs a balance staff and the round steel bumpers in the calendar spacer will be rusty. Fifty USD would be my limit. I have a 3035 that looked the same way and the only parts that were good enough to use were the balance complete, hour wheel, and a few other assorted parts. The rust stains would not come off the plates, they faded a little in an ultrasonic cleaner but still look bad. The reversers were shot along with all the calendar parts. Every screw except 2 or 3 were rusted solid. The watch was stored with the balance out of the water and that's all that saved it. Evidently the owner just laid it down and forgot about it after it drowned. It's at $237.50 with a day and a half to go.
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