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automatico

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automatico last won the day on March 17

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  1. Today's gold watch, Rhapsody Royale in 14K gold... Front loader 'waterproof' case', 21 jewel, manual wind (afaik, never opened it), seems thin for an automatic. Paid $100 USD for it May 4, 2003. Gold was $341 to $342 per troy oz on that date. Today it was $2185 USD. Today's 'iron' watch... Faux 'bubbleback' with ETA 2550. Bought three of them from Yahoo auctions 20+ years ago. Very well made and I have seen quite a few for sale claimed to be genuine over the years. Case ref # is 5015, serial # is 545383. The minute numbers are not fully visible because of the angle of the reflector ring but they all show up straight on. ETA 2550 Watch Movement - EmmyWatch
  2. "I found the culprit! It was the bent base of the pallet fork as seen in this image" Cool! As they used to say out in LA. (pre Gov Gruesome Newsom) I had a pallet fork war with a Rlx cal 1210 a while back...broken arbor. I broke it. Got an oem replacement ($) but it would not fit, too small in the waist. (?) Bought an assortment of Bulova pallet arbors, found a good fit. Lost it. (!) Passed over a few PFs evidently made out of 'unobtanium alloy' while on the hunt'. ($$) Finally found one 'affordable' PF on the Bay after looking every day for a couple months.
  3. Nos SMP, 12 or 15 years old... Two more still in plastic wrap... The San Luis Obispo County road map is from the early 1940s when my father was in artillery training at Fort Ord, Monterey Bay CA. He landed at Utah Beach August 1944 and fought in the Battle of the Bulge in Patton's Third Army (Lt. Colonel). Have a picture he took of a wooden road sign shaped like an arrow out in the middle of nowhere with 'LEMANS' painted on it. He also visited the first concentration camp liberated by the Americans...rough going for all involved. One of the guys under his command made the deepest incursion on foot into enemy territory during WW II and returned safely. The same guy used to come to cook-out parties at our place when I was a kid. I remember they had some he!! raising parties. The old B-B-Q fireplace from back then is still standing in our back yard...full of nicks from gunshots. There was a three door chicken house behind it that caught most of the stray bullets. We tore it down, it was shot full of holes. Learned to drive out back on our Ford 8N tractor. No chickens, no cows, no goats, no horses...just neighbors now. We got rid of the goats because they climbed on top of Mom's Jeep. We got rid of my horse because it kicked a Zippo lighter out of my Dad's shirt pocket. We ate most of the chickens. The rest got away. Can't eat the neighbors...I heard it's against the law. Pics taken 2-24-24. Did not put them in the Omega section because it is not very busy.
  4. Current gold Rlx replacement case & bracelet prices on S-T: Lady size 18K yellow gold case with bezel...$2895 Same in 18K white gold...$2945 DJ type 36mm 18K YG case, no bezel for 3035...$5245 Prez case in 18K WG for 3155, no bezel...$4000 Submariner case in 18K YG for 3035 or 3135 with bezel...$6795 DJ type 20mm 14K hollow mid link jubilee bracelet...$4715 Prez type w/hidden clasp/hollow mid links in 18K WG...$6950 Prez type w/hidden clasp/hollow mid links in 18K YG...$6595 14K YG...$4750 Prez type jubilee w/hidden clasp in 18K YG...$7490 (solid or hollow mid links not specified) Prez type w/hidden clasp with solid mid links in 18K WG (90.5 grams)...$9135 Prez type w/hidden clasp with solid mid links in 18K YG...$8995 (90.5 grams of 18K YG gold is $4442 USD on 2-24-24 @ 12:05 PM EST) Prez type w/hidden clasp with hollow mid links in 18K YG...$6595 Submariner type bracelet in 18K YG with flip lock oyster bracelet...$7250 Sub type 18K YG case and bracelet...$14045 USD 14K gold Waltham
  5. "I would disagree somewhat with your description of the 23-300 as being delicate. I have overhauled 2-3 of them (1 sitting on my bench now) &, while not in the tool watch class, I would have no qualms wearing 1 as a daily driver. " You are right of course, but I have never liked Patek Philippe watches and will admit to having a strong bias against the brand. Why is that? Because they are vastly overrated and overpriced, much like many other 'high grade' brands today. Imho. I never thought of Rolex being a 'high grade' watch because I can remember when they were the same price as a nice Omega or Longines. During the 'quartz crisis' they were one of few brands to survive and not long after they got over the crisis, it seems they decided to go upscale and advertise to Watch Elites (Ha!) instead of 'Watch Knaves' like me. Imho again. Any Rolex watches I have left are mostly older models with cal. 15xx movements because that is what I started with and have stayed with. I traded in later models but never did care much for them although I will admit to having three sapphire crystal models left. I dropped out of the Rolex Race quite a while back and will buy one now and then only if it is an absolute bargain. I am basically just an observer now.
  6. "On the military side, US watches seem to me technologically on par with those of the Swiss brands, and certainly less expensive to produce. The A11 pilots watches had the same +-15 spd accuracy standard and hacking feature as the RAF 6b/159s from Longines, Omega, and JLC. And while not as flashy as a Radiomir, the Elgin and Hamilton canteens were probably the best proto-dive watches of WW2." Agree. ...and they don't call USA made Hamilton 'snap back' dress watches from the 1930s through the 1960s 'The American Patek Philippe' for nothing. I have owned a few manual wind Pateks and still have some vintage manual wind gold case Hamiltons...imho the Hamiltons are superior (in the real world), especially when you factor in the initial price, reliability, cost of parts, and service prices. My last Patek was a 'Golden Ellipse' on a Patek bracelet and the thing was so fragile (cal 23-300), I doubt it would survive one hard sneeze. They could be carried in a Kleenex box if that worries anyone. Ha! We call them 'Country Club Watches'. Here is a 23-300 movement on eBay: item number 134940359178 Bulova 'sweep second' stainless case mil style 32mm project watch, been apart for years, might finish it this summer. Many mil spec watches were 30 to 32mm. Bottom right is a military issue 'front loader' Benrus from the Vietnam era signed June 1969. Someone gave it to me and I can't remember any details on it but have 3 or 4 runners like it from the same era. They are very good for daily wear if you like genuine trouble-free mil spec watches. Problem is they have gone from $50 or $75 when I bought mine to $300+. Benrus made a run of reproductions a few years back but they have gone up in price too. Have a steel 1980s Hamilton military issue watch with a Durowe 7 jewel (manual wind) movement somewhere. You see them on eBay, but most of the time, the seller leaves out the 7 jewel Durowe movement part. A 17 jewel Durowe movement of the same type will fit in the case to make a very reliable 17 jewel everyday watch. They look like this: eBay item number 386749257465 Nos dial for the Bulova project watch...
  7. Brings back memories. "Top shelf as always." Fer sure! Here is my SD, it is about 15 or 18 years old now. I like the models with printed markers better, but this will have to do. Still nos except for drilled lugs and oem spec spring bars. It came with a new Swiss Eta 2836...before they outlawed them.
  8. Mooney Toons... All are nos with Seagull ST 19 except the two without bracelets, they are Seagull ST 6, not chronographs. Walk on the Moon date, July 20, 1969. 'Broad Arrow' model with 'Liar Dial. Liar Dial says 'automatic' but is manual wind. 'Chronometer' might be another lie.
  9. "Can you suggest ant cheaper alternative one dips that you may know of?" One Dip is 1, 1, 1 - Trichloroethane aka methyl chloroform, (chemical formula CH3CCl3). Dangerous stuff, but not as bad if used outside (upwind) in an open area as it evaporates very rapidly. Some say common (also dangerous) dry cleaning fluid aka 'perc' will also work and is easier to get. From the website 'Love to Know'... Perchloroethylene Dry Cleaning Fluid In the early 1930s, the United States dry cleaning industry began using the solvent perchloroethylene, which is nonflammable. Commonly referred to as perc, perchloroethylene is also known as: Perchloroethylene PCE Tetrachloroethylene Tetrachloroethene Using perchloroethylene became the favored method of dry cleaners and in the late 1950s. It is a chlorinated solvent that removed dirt and stains without water. According to the Center for Disease Prevention and Control (CDC), 85 percent of the 36,000 dry cleaning shops in the United States use this chemical. Perchloroethylene cautions - Search (bing.com)
  10. "I've found the ETA 2846 to be as reliable as the ETA 2836, but has the slower beat for vintage builds. " Me too, I have used quite a few of them and some of my older models are 17 jewels instead of 21. Can't tell any difference between 21J and 17J in day to day use though. Might need to c/o the autowind assembly more often on the 17J models to keep the reverser bushings from wearing out. A 25J autowind assembly from an ETA 2824/36 etc. will fit a 2846. I bought a few bargain priced 25J nos ETA 2879 (21600 bph) about 10 years ago and they also work fine in projects, but it seems they do not have the same winding efficiency as later 2824/36/46 etc. After c/o they keep good time and on the few I have, the day of the week spacer is made on the top plate instead of using a flimsy sheet metal spacer. They are about the same thickness as an ETA 2836. From The Ranfft website: 2846 11.5'', Dm= 25.6mm, Do= 26.0mm H= 5.2mm (calendar/dial spacer is made on the movement on mine) F= 1.65mm T= 2.25mm 17/21 jewels f = 21600 A/h power reserve 48h 2879 11.5'', Dm= 25.6mm, Do= 26.0mm H= 5.35mm (calendar/dial spacer +0.15mm) F= 0.6mm T= 2.3mm 17/21/25 jewels f = 21600 A/h power reserve 55h I tried an Eta 2879 in a case made for an Eta 2836 and it fits Ok, everything lines up, stem is in the center of the case tube etc. My 2879 movements are not hacks but the hack lever can be installed. They also need cleaning and oiling but I figure it's better to spend time c/o a nos movement than an old movement with unknown history.
  11. "I understand your hesitancy, but I have never found most properly maintained Rolexes to be fragile." I get where you are coming from but back when I knew the head repair guy at a fairly large AD, he was ordering 15xx and 30xx balance staffs by the dozen every few months (3 for $18 back then) plus quite a few 'balances complete' ($160 at the time, still have a few for 15xx 19.8 chronometers plus one for 3035 and one for lady cal 2135). The cal 3035 was a problem because the hairsprings came loose from the balance where they were laser welded and they had to be replaced. If the owner was lucky, the 3035 HS was just tangled up (another common problem)...not counting dates flipping halfway in the window etc. I've owned 33 cal 3000/3035 watches with 4 tangled HS and 3 balance staffs plus a few other ailments...all gone now. About the same number of 3130/3135 watches with no problems other than a few needing c/o. Had a few 3035 powered DJ with serious case corrosion, no 3135 powered DJ models with much corrosion but they were newer. Saw a few rotten submariners used in salt water and not cared for. 1-16-24... caliber 3035 a white elephant? - Rolex Forums - Rolex Watch Forum Owned about 50 models with cal 15xx and they had a few problems...MS barrel arbor hole in main plate worn out of round (no jewel or bushing), broken staffs from whams & bams, worn out reversers and rotor weight axles (usually because of too long between c/o), broken rotor axle jewels (W & B)...the winding weight axle and jewels are weak points under rough service imho. RWC service centers have a device to bore and bush the MS arbor hole, or a mini milling machine can be used. The bushings are hard to find, usually have to be cut out of a similar bushing on a lathe and milling machine. Still have three 3130 AKs left, that's it for 'modern' Rlx. Last Rlx purchased? Steel ref 1500 timehead 12-14-21 $700 in gro. Probably the last unless a cheapo shows up. The AD repair guy had been at the bench 30+ years and was one of the best around. He called the cal 3000/3035 '******* junk' and also hated the 1556 type Prez day of the week works, even I can tell they are flimsy (I have one btw). The 3135 was the main movement back when I knew him, and they had very few problems. I asked him what his favorite Rlx watch was. He said: "The 1016, just don't drop it." What did he wear? Gold case Accutron 214 prototype with different case back from production models, a gift from a Bulova sales rep. "I worry more about watches developing problems because they spend too much time sitting idle rather than suffering damage from being worn." Yeah, me too. I have a safe full of 'em. Funny thing is the replicas always take off after a long snooze and the genuine watches don't want to get up and go.
  12. Today, most of my genuine Rlx watches would be considered 'vintage' but wearing them is no longer much of an option although I used to wear them many years ago. Not now. Q...Why? A1...Because they simply are too fragile and cost too much to repair compared to sensible options available today. Besides that, RWC has cut parts off to almost everyone causing parts prices to jump to absurd levels. NPFY A2...The watches are selling for way more than they are worth imho so now might be a good time to get rid of them. Q...What would I consider to be a 'sensible' option? A...If I want the Vintage Rlx Look, maybe a pretty good replica with a swissETA. Q...Why a swissETA? A...Because they are cheap and reliable, especially when compared to a 50 year old Rlx movement. 'Cheap' swissETA = only if you bought them 15+ years ago when a new 2836 was around $65. Q...So...after all the BS above, what are my favorite no date vintage Rlx type watches? A...I would have to say 1016, 5512, 5513. Q...Watches with date? A...Flat dial 36mm DJ and 1655. 'Pie Pans' are too much hassle imho. What are yours?
  13. 'Millionaire' in disguise... 'Brokenaire' is more like it. Found this in my pre- flu trader bag. New with Asian 21 movement . Wrong case shape between the lugs though. Military Intelligence... Biden and Austin in the situation room standing in front of a HUGE world map. John Kirby at a desk looking on. After about 15 minutes Biden says: 'I can't find it.' Austin says: 'I can't find it either.' Kirby asks: 'What are you looking for?' Biden answers: 'Houthi, we're gonna bomb it.' Kirby says: 'It's not a place, it's the name of a terror group.' Biden says: 'Ok, we'll just bomb the country next to it, let's go get some ice cream.' Satire... 'The use of humor, irony, exaggeration, or ridicule to expose and criticize peoples' stupidity or vices, particularly in the context of contemporary politics and other topical issues.' "...working." Name brand regular gas around here is $2.65. For now. 1-19-24 One 'cash only' gas station is $2.49, others are still around $2.65. Meanwhile, my gas hog 4x4 does not need any gas.
  14. "...the dial is Gen, but I Think is too small for the case opening." The harsh truth is there is not much of a fix for this. When a dial is too small... First, the dial paint at the edge of the dial gets chipped. Then a chunk of an hour marker or dot gets scraped off. How? By the movement/dial sliding around in the case when setting time, winding the watch, or screwing the crown down. What is the fix? A precision spacer and stout case clamps/screws is sometimes a half-azz fix...but if the dial is too small, it will always show. "the movement needs service and I have a few spare parts for it." "ETA 2893-2 GMT" IF the dial is genuine for sure, maybe find a properly fitting case first and go from there because it would probably be worth finishing. Another thing is the 2893 is a fine movement but with 28800 BPH, it will be easy to tell the watch is a replica, especially if anyone handles it and finds the QS date and adj. 24H hand. Fine for a 16750 etc. though. But that would be another rabbit hole. Ha! I've been down this road quite a few times and ill-fitting projects hardly ever/never turn out right. All the parts have to fit reasonably well to start with. My 'shortcut 1655' fiasco is a good example. Where is it now? Case, dial etc. is in the project/junk box. The Rlx 1570/75 is in a 34mm 1002 'explorer' project watch. Leftover parts are in a little tin can. How long did it take to 'complete' the 'SC 1655' project? Probably 100+ hours counting movement work etc. before I decided to put the movement in the 1002. If it ever comes back to life, it will have an ETA 2846 with a non adj. Asian 24H setup. I'll leave it a QS but remove the 'second notch' QS position. One major problem I never could get past was it just never looked right. But it looks good 'nuff for a 2846. Good Luck!
  15. Fine looking MG! "two domed crystals ( very similar to my original 6538 crystal) but these have a metal retaining ring on the inside edge. Did not fit the case with the ring installed, removed the ring and the crystal fit the case. slightly smaller on the outside diameter so bezel is not a snug fit. Added some dial dots for extra security and it seems good.....might replace the dial dots with clear silicone." Using G-S crystal nomenclature...the type of crystal above with a 'tension ring' is a G-S ET type. They are made to be pressed into crystal seats in cases using a crystal with an OD about .01mm (+/-) larger than the ID of the crystal seat in the case. Many are also used as you did without the tension ring on projects etc. The main difference between an ET type crystal and a PA type (like used on a vintage Rolex) is the ET has a thinned down area at the bottom edge of the 'skirt' where the tension ring fits and the PA type has a straight sidewall with no relief cut at the bottom. Sometimes you can go up or down one size on an ET type crystal and find a pretty good fit. The main drawback is the area where they are machined for the tension ring is pretty thin and the crystal skirt may crack when the bezel is pressed down over it. One other option is using a G-S DT (Diver Tite) double thick tension ring type crystal, they are thicker overall but they do not come in as many sizes as ET crystals, and few supply houses stock many of them. The 'gap obsession'... I know what you mean about 'the gap' around the outside of the dial. I did a '5512' project a few years back using a DW case, 1570, and Yuki dial. The case was made for 26.5mm dials so there was a very small gap around the OD of the dial and only the dial foot screws were holding the dial down. I made a very thin spacer out of aluminum to fill the gap and felt better about it...until I read later that a few of the earliest 5512 watches had the gap because they were using leftover dials with a smaller diameter than needed. Ha! Also did a '5513' project with the same case and spacer but it bothered me too. Now the empty case is back in the project box, maybe to be used in a '1680' project later. Speaking of 'the gap',..here is an example of an early 5512 with the gap and without the SCOC blurb that came later... Rolex Submariner Eagle Beak Tropical Dial Ref. 5512 - Rolex Passion Market
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