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automatico last won the day on July 19

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  1. Nostalgia...

    Found this internet forum 'For Sale' ad (can't remember which forum) from March 7, 2000 when looking up my WLD deal info: "A watchmaker friend of mine has about 50 or so empty Rolex watch cases. The movements were gutted for Hong Kong made all gold Presidents. Most of the cases are ref 15000. If you email me with what cases you are looking for, I can try to see if he has it & then email you back with info. I will only choose good quality cases. I can have them buffed for $30 each. I would sell these for around $120 to $150 buffed. The cases come with bezel & crown & crystal." I bought some cases for similar prices around this time at watch shows (w/bezel, crystal, no crown) but I got 162xx DJ type. The watch buyer/case seller guys used the base movement (either 3035 or 3135) and converted them to Day/Date models using non genuine (China made?) DD conversions and dials. I saw some of them for sale at watch shows and they looked pretty good. They went for $4000 and up depending on the bezel and dial. Similar watches with ETA 2834 were $2000 to $2500 at the time. Gold was around $270 per troy oz in 2000. I bought a steel sapphire lady DJ case from a case seller on the 'net back then and the case was $80 for a quick set model with bezel, sapphire crystal, no crown...delivered. The first case was not as good as described and the guy said to keep it and sent me another one (free) that looked like new...a two-fer. They were making 18k lady models too. Lady 18kyg rolex watches always looked to me like a quartz lady Seiko. Ladies would probably be better off with a Seiko because it will still be running the next morning...but it ain't a ro-lex. Ha! Never had much luck with lady rolex watches. How come? 'Cause there ain't enough rotor to crank the motor.
  2. Longest you have waited for a rep?

    "Automatico wins." I lied. I looked it up and the WLD fiasco started December 5, 2002 at 8:37am est so it has only been about 15 years. I'll return the prize.
  3. Longest you have waited for a rep?

    Seventeen years. Still waiting on WLD (watchloverdavid) to send a couple watches. 😂
  4. Anyone ever wonder...

    ...why vintage rolex Frankensteins are now a 'viable alternative' to the genuine article? Maybe this has something to do with it: Rolex Historic Restoration department Has anyone dealt with Rolex Historic Restoration Department in Geneva? If so, any suggestions? I need a dial for an early datejust, and I will be in Geneva at the end of the month. So, I called Rolex. I was told: 1) I can talk to the watchmaker at the front desk to verify that the watch is real (no big deal, as I know it is) 2) An ESTIMATE costs 1000 CHF ($1,000) - just for an estimate! (1000 CHF = $1000.03 USD) 3) Restoration will probably run between 15,000 and 30,000 CHF And all I need is a DIAL - I don't want anything else to be touched. I really had my heart set on having Rolex help me, but, honestly, for that much money, I can buy a mint early 4467 and pull the dial. No Parts For You! Q...Getting a GMT of mine serviced and my watchmaker has informed me that Rolex has stopped supplying GMT specific parts to parts account holders. Can anybody else confirm? A1...Both Omega and Rolex have stopped supplying parts to third parties. Companies like Startime and Otto Frei no longer sell any Genuine parts. Both companies are also tightening up the parts supply chains to AD's and Private Watchmakers. They have closed the supply chain to many small watchmakers and AD's. Not all AD's and not all Privates, but the ability to get parts has become significantly more difficult in recent months and only going to get more difficult... A 2...I am told no more movement parts for GMTs along with Daytona, Oysterquartz ,Sky Dweller or Yachmaster II. For Sale: A NOS never installed 1675 GMT tritium hand set. No corrosion or missing paste. $775.00 shipped world wide   Up for sale tropic 22 Superdomed for Explorer 1016, Nos and sealed, $450. Up for sale early pair of 50 endlinks for 1675 PCG GMT, Mint used conditions, $390. Up for sale 1655 Explorer II Bezel, Service Type, Flawless, $490.-   FS: very nice faded MFF-insert for 1675. 5Up for sale is this nice faded MegaFatFont insert. 1. My price is 1800 EUR net to me, incl. worldwide shipping. 2. Faded Fat Font bezel for 1675 16750 - $1600   FS: Beautiful faded fat fonts Rolex GMT 1675 insert. Asking $2,250 net by wire shipped worldwide.   FS : R O L E X 1675 GMT Date Wheel US $350.   A Rolex MK4 bezel and case back for Explorer II 1655. Both are in nice used condition. BEZEL PRICE $750.00 shipped. (case back sold, price deleted in listing)   FS: Cal.1520 Auto-Wind Module, Complete. Near Mint. Recently serviced and in near-mint condition, this auto-wind module is fully functional and ready to be installed. $525, including domestic shipping in the US. For sale is a Rolex 1520 movement. Very clean. Movement is complete except for one part (small part that clips the rotor on from the inside). Price is $790 Firm. (not bad at all compared to the AW assembly alone...different sellers) Genuine Rolex leather bracelet (strap) and 18k solid gold buckle - $700.   You are looking at a very rare set of ref #1019 milgauss hands. Beautiful mellow patina. $2300.   FS: SuperLuminova Submariner 1680 Dial for sale. PRICE: $990 with free US shipping.   FS: Mint 1016 tritium dial + hands - 1300 EUR shipped worldwide.   FS Rare Big Logo First type Oyster rivet 6636 SS ,12 link, bracelet marked 1.59 with 65 end link in good conditions! My request is 4500 euro shipped WW.   I have for sale this rare early elastic(spring load)Rolex rivet bracelet from 1957(inside clasp stamped 4 57) with 65 end pieces. Just back from refinishing/polishing/tighten. 5+7 links in total. The links are tight, very nice overall. Asking $5,000 by wire transfer.    FS: Extra rare Rolex straight end Rivet bracelet from 1950. 19mm Rolex straight end spring load Rivet bracelet. Asking $3,750 by wire shipped worldwide.   For sale is a 1969 7206 rivet bracelet. Price is $1,290 firm.   FS - rolex 7206 in straight ends - 20mm, clasp in 67's - 10 links with normal stretch - $2800.   Rare 9315 rolex pat. pend bracelet, 11 links with limited stretch, end links in 285, specially for early 1665 mark 1/2 models. 70s on clasp code, offer $2900 include shipping. All postings are from VRM, a few edits for clarity/typos, none on prices. Italics are my comments.
  5. Lowered expectations...

    I have spent the last 10 years away from doing hardly any work at all on genuine rolex watches belonging other people because of the 'no parts for you' situation but have recently been talked into working on some 'outsider' watches with cal 15xx movements purchased by 'watch friends'. (With friends like this...Ha!) Have also looked in a lot of genuine watches lately. So...what's new? 1...There is a lot more junk now than there was 10 years ago. 2...A lot more botch jobs are showing up, probably due to high repair prices. 3...A lot of worn out movement parts are still being used in a lot of watches...reversers, rotor axles etc, probably because of 'npfy'. One example: Looked at a 1601 DJ with the hands out of correspondence (hour hand at 12, minute hand at 30 minute mark). It had been dropped, hit on the back, and the minute hand fell down a little bit. The owner cranked the time around later on trying to set it and moved the minute hand out of whack. He also said he had to hand wind it (before the drop) because it would no longer auto wind. He bought it a few months ago and the seller claimed it had been 'recently cleaned'. It looks clean and the balance has good motion so that is probably true. There was a screw jammed between the winding rotor and the case back. Q...Where did it come from? A...It was one of the lower autowind plate screws. Q...How did it get out? A...The whole a/w assembly was loose on the movement along with every other screw I checked from the back side except for the two casing screws. Q...How come? A...Either whoever put it together did not tighten the screws enough or the owner has been mowing, riding his H-D (Ha!) or doing something with a whole lot of shakin' goin' on. Who knows? I'll ask but they never know...or tell. My takeaway from seeing the junk and botch jobs is: 1...If you have a nice genuine vintage rolex or Frankenstein with a good genuine movement...keep it because the pickings are getting very slim and much more expensive. 2...Some of the work is not as good as it used to be, maybe because so many of the better repair guys have left the trade. Maybe they left because of 'npfy'. 3...There ain't no mo affordable vintage rolex parts.
  6. Case closed. Now reopened...

    A few answers: "Are you doing this because of stem height?" Yes. Thought about machining the dial seat a little bit deeper but it may make the case deck too thin so I will try this first. "Why don't you just use a felsa 4007?" Do not have one and am familiar with eta. I have put a few Frankenetas together and they usually work Ok. Most of the time. Thought about an eta 2450. May try one later on but they are 10.5" and the 28xx is 11.5" so I would need to whittle out another spacer. "So, you gonna make a "low beat" 2824? I've never gotten that bored..." I refuse to be outsmarted by a case. This time. The last 20 times do not count. This is all JMB's fault. Having to use a movement no one ever heard of...eta 282446. Btw...the combo movement is together and running.
  7. NEW rep Daytona with 904L steel and a 4130 clone movement!

    There is a lot of mystery about 904L. It goes for $900 to $2500 per ton depending on how much you buy so at $2000 a ton it would make the metal in one watch cost about $2 or so allowing for waste. The more you buy, the cheaper it gets and 904L is nothing special at all. I have some seamless 904L tubing that I had cut for making bezels and a foot of it was a couple dollars. It costs a lot more to machine it than to buy it.
  8. Case closed. Now reopened...

    The JMB '1016' case that is. Finally got around to putting one together. Here is what I decided to use (by trial and error): Swiss eta 2824 plates Swiss eta 2846 (day/date) balance assembly, escape wheel, pallet fork and all train wheels. Remove all D/D parts. Put 2846 balance complete in 2824. Use taller Swiss eta 2846 cp and hour wheel. Standard calendar spacer if needed. I'll take them apart and put one combo movement together and see how it goes and post the results. It will take a while because I have other things to do. PS: Somebody post something, it's getting awful quiet around here.
  9. Oris goes back in time well................

    "IMHO a bit pricey @ $1499 USDs for SW200 but I like!" "Me likey but not enough to spend that kind of coin on it. For that price it's competing with Glycine, Tissot, Waltham and Fortis Marinemaster Super Compressors. Those are dangerous odds." "can't get my arms around the price point as we all agree but this look on the nylon strap well I could get stupid one night..." Yep. I can not climb on their bandwagon, they cost too much...that and the fact their name begins with the letter O. When I think of Oris, I remember all the pin lever junk they cranked out for so many years. Maybe they could come out with a similar watch in a pot metal case with a 1 jewel movement for $79.
  10. Is it is or is it ain't?

    Saw this 1675 for sale on VRF and the bleacher bums bombed it. The rounded lug tops, third class sandpaper job on the lug tips, and no wear on the mid case between the lugs do not help authenticity imho but I can not help but wonder who is this bird referring to when he said: "Well known fake font. I'd like to have better pictures but I got my own idea..." I assume he is referring to the numbers/letters between the lugs. I am not well versed on replica cases because 'close enough' is Ok for me but the remark made me curious.
  11. "I have seen a pair of these at 80usd on Ebay !" ST and a few other USA supply houses have swiss made spring bars identical to oem for less than $2 each. They should be available from watch material supply houses in France too. Your watch probably had lower quality China made spring bars...they are $29.95 for 90 assorted sizes from ST. Rolex does not make their own spring bars. http://www.startimesupply.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=1&Category_Code=1D_Rolex_SBars_Asst&Product_Code=RP23-16613S
  12. Three of my watch-fixer friends were Accutron specialists from the 1960s up until they started disappearing from wrists. All three used the same method to clean dirty index wheels on old 'Rattytrons' without taking them apart (me too): Run a small drop of hairspring cleaner (One Dip etc) down a needle or small oiler onto the index wheel a time or two to rinse the dirt away (do not touch the index wheel teeth if at all possible). If it hums and just will not run, this may get it going. If it does not hum, check the batt (making sure it is 'upside down'), contacts, coils, and circuit. If the watch runs up until the date is changing and stalls out but the second hand still moves (218), it is usually the canon pinion...turn it over. How? remove the hands and dial, then remove the hour wheel and look at it...easy to see how to do it. The 218 quick sets the date, many do not know it and this is why so many canon pinions are loose. Do Not turn the sweep second hand backwards with a brush, tool etc when working around the watch with the movement out of the case or the crystal removed, it might/will bend the index and pawl jewel springs (the springs were supposedly made from hairspring material). Do not leave a running 218 'hacked' for long. If you do much work on them, you will probably need a microscope...and lay off coffee and energy drinks. A regular 214 can be turned into a pretty good Spaceview using Clark's crystal and hands. Sometimes you will need a 'skeletonized' minute chapter ring though. I learned enough about A-trons to get by but will not fool with one now unless I have to. Trivia: Remember what Crocodile Dundee said: "That 218 is not an Accutron. This 214 is an Accutron!" Don Johnson wore a steel 214 Spaceview on 'Nash Bridges'. http://members.iinet.net.au/~fotoplot/acc.htm
  13. Second chance...

    I have posted a few times about the old DW submariner cases with the rounded sides as being 'Pot Belly' cases because the sides are slightly rounded like a DJ making them not as popular as better cartel or MBK cases. Things change but cartel cases are still hit or miss from one order to another, MBK cases are hard to find, and Yuki/Phong cases ain't cheap and ain't getting any cheaper. Well...it turns out DW cases may not be so bad after all. I have been seeing a lot of genuine 5512/13/1680 watches with Pot Belly sides caused by wear and not-so-pro polishing and most are being priced waaay up there now. Examples: http://www.network54.com/Forum/207673/message/1501595158/FS-+Rolex+Submariner+ref.+5513+‘Meters+First’ http://www.network54.com/Forum/207673/message/1454128322/fs-+meters+first+1680+tropical+red+sub+with+box+and+papers+-+%2426%2C000 ($26,000 Shaaazam!!) So...if you have a DW case hidden away in a drawer it might be worth a second chance to make a 'high mileage' project watch or to put up for sale. Matter of fact they would make a very good 'aged' project watch without much aging at all. Pros: high quality finish reasonable prices (usually) case back stamping usually Ok, some have no stamping at all good fit with genuine rlx 1570/75 date movement and 26.5mm dial Cons: case neck usually a hair too small but by using an oem spec bezel kit and swapping aftmkt crystals around, a fix can usually be found case back threads may be oem 30.9mm or non oem 30.4mm, both having the same stamping all cases (all I have seen) are 1680 spec even if stamped 5512/13 (26.5mm dial opening) case letters/numbers between lugs can be from Ok to awful to none at all originally came with spring wire bezels (all I have seen) crown guards aka 'rat ears' need a little attention lug holes need to be drilled
  14. "I wouldn't buy my gen Rollies for the prices that the market demands now." Me neither. It must be Greenhorn 'collectors' with too much $$ buying them. I would have more pride in a F-stein or project watch that I put together for a few hundreds bucks even if it is not genuine because anyone with enough $$ can buy a genuine example. Not many can put a watch together from a conglomeration of parts from hither and yon. I would venture to guess that RWG has more watch guys that can do most of the actual watch work than any other watch forum. The average genuine rolex forum guy has trouble screwing a crown down. Q...Who has the best sub? A...US Navy.
  15. Gen dial fit rep case?

    "I am wondering if I could fit a gen Datejust 1601 dial into a 36mm made for ETA 2836 case?" Anyone ever wonder why they made the 'pie pan' dials in the first place? Because in the 1960s 'thin was in' and they made the 'pie pan' dial so the movement could be mounted higher in the case in order for the watch case to be made thinner. Omega 'pie pan' Constellations of this era were made the same way for the same reason. That being said, when using a 'pie pan' dial with an aftmkt case made for an eta 2836, there should be plenty of room for it all to go together. Maybe someone on the forum has made up a watch with a genuine 'pan' dial and an eta 2824 or 2836 and will chime in with how it went. I have never put a watch like this together so I am no help. I have stuck a few later model sapphire DJ projects together and I always use an eta 2836 because there is more room for the DWO. Looks like the main question is: Does it need a 2824 or 2836? I do not know for sure but I do know this...a 1575 date movement with a 'flat top' dial will fit into a case made for a 3035 date movement and flat top dial. One example is a 1575 movement and 'flat top' dial from a reference 1500 will fit right into a 15000 case made for a 3035. So...(by deduction), if a 2836 with a 'flat top' dial will fit into a rolex case made for a 1575 (genuine spec 1680 for example), it means a 2836 should fit in your DJ project case made for a 2836 although the 'pie pan' dial might allow the movement to mount a fraction of a mm higher in the case. What this all boils down to is you might have to try to find details on a similar project on the forum or wait for a member to give an answer...StoneP comes to mind. https://rwg.cc/topic/182885-super-franken-rolex-datejust-1601/#comment-1458304 "It's likely the 2836 will need a movement ring." Yes, a spacer similar to what is needed for putting an eta in a 1680 because except for the dial size, 1600 and 1680 cases are are the same internally. Something else to consider is a date wheel overlay...you will need one and they come with their own set of obstacles, fully explained on the forums. I just now measured a genuine 1601 dial and it is 27.9mm in diameter.