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automatico last won the day on March 27

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  1. "Just for a follow up....I would definitely only recommend using a pin vise instead of crushing the tube with a large vise unless you intend to not reuse the part that is getting crushed." Good advice. I use a collet in an old 8mm 'watchmaker' lathe. The collets are made in .1mm steps and are high precision so they will not slip and damage the crown post. Most hobby guys do not have one but most old timer repair guys do and many will let you use the lathe for 5 minutes to unscrew a crown post. You do not use any electrical power, you just snug the crown post in the proper c
  2. "What are the crown tube dimensions for the 50s oyster perpetual? I believe they came with the 6mm crown. Does that mean they also had the 3mm x 0.35mm crown tube?" Most of them are the same depending on the watch reference number. Some models might have the 'Super Oyster' crowns carried over from the early 1950s but I do not know when they were cut from production. The 'Super Oyster' was not too hot, they tended to wear out sooner than anticipated. The oldest watch I have is a 1956 6605 DJ and it has a regular 6.0mm crown and case tube...send the watch reference
  3. "Here is a perfect example of the wear on the pins giving the illusion of stretch." Ronin, I noticed that was a tutone bracelet. I have seen tutone jubilee bracelets with the spring bars worn through the tube into the coil spring and the gold end links would still be in good condition. Evidently the gold is tougher than it is perceived to be. Tutone jubilees that are worn loose are prone to wear if they are not washed every week or so. TT oyster models wear out too but it seems they wear at a slower rate. I have some TT jubilee bracelets from ST (made in Italy) and
  4. "Before doing anything, I would post good clear pics of said dials. You may be fretting over nothing, or the pics might inspire the right solution." Very good advice. The dial markers on my 'shortcut 1655' seemed to be a little too dark. So I fixed it. How? By looking at pictures of 1655 watches until I found a few just like mine. I can only hope they were genuine and not replickas. I understand colors may be off a little on 'net pics but I'm willing to be at peace with the dial now.
  5. "But then the gen spec hands won't fit the cannon pinion on an ETA movement unless you broach/stake the hell out of them, then they rub the minutes hand." Info is from my notes, no guarantees: Rlx 15xx hand sizes: H 1.20mm M .80mm SS .20mm iirc cal 1030 hands are the same or very close to 15xx. ETA 28xx: H 1.50mm M .90mm SS .25mm Mvt diameter is a hair less than 26.0mm. Rlx 15xx movement thickness; No date...5.75mm Date...6.3mm GMT...6.45m Day/Date...7.0mm All are 28.5mm max diameter. Cal 1030 is 28.5
  6. "One more thing, has anyone used heard of rolliworks.com ? They claim to be experts in bracelet restoration." I've seen good reviews on their work but it was on later model bracelets like 93150 etc. Do not know if they can restore stretchers and folders. I will say M. Young did a good job on a stretch oyster, an old steel C&I jubilee, and a regular rivet oyster. The other two mentioned before, not so good.
  7. The bottom line imho: "I'm afraid there are two paths to follow here. Aftermarket parts "made to work" and genuine." (Nanuq) As good as some of the replica bracelets are now, I would repair/replace worn out genuine links with replicas and hang on to the originals. There are not many options for folded oyster repair if you want to wear one. ST has some very good hollow center link aftmkt DJ-93150 links for $17.50 each...p/n RMOSS-LINK/OP. If someone really wanted to make a link separator they could buy a small cheapo table vise and mount a pair of smaller c
  8. "I’m guessing there is zero parts interchangeability between 15xx and 30xx. (eg. reversers)." Far as I know nothing will interchange.
  9. "AWA's. I am on my second 1570 awa in my 1680 😞 ... I see tons of awa's for 3xxx series Rolex movements, but it is getting rare to see 15xx." Yep, they are getting hard to find. I had to scrounge up the 1520 signed awa in the '1655' out of parts from eBay and it was past its prime. The 1570 signed awa I'm putting in it came from a 1603 and all is well except the rotor axle is loose in the weight. I'll use the rotor from the 1520 awa in it because it has a new rotor axle. I bought a few sets of reversers on eBay with good luck but awa plates or rotors are too much $$ for
  10. "Properly assembled and maintained, Rolex calibers are nearly bulletproof." I agree 100% especially the 1530 base models. My gripe is their parts policy. It is extremely simple though...No Parts For You! Not Now, Not Ever. I like the 1030 models just fine and still have watches with them but do not wear them, never did. I bought them at bargain prices (compared to today) and still have them. The 'shortcut 1655' mentioned above was a major hassle to stick together but that was because it was a project using a non genuine GMT conversion plus having to repa
  11. "The alternative is Michael Young. He's been restoring vintage bracelets for decades and he does *spectacular* work." I sent 4 bracelets to M Young in August 2007 and all I will say is going by remarks about how good his work is in the last 5 or 7 years...the work has greatly improved since I had mine done. I could post details but I have no proof. Let's just say that two out of the four were unwearable when I got them back...one the original swiss jubilee from a 1979 1675 and one from a tutone DJ 6605 made in 1956.
  12. "Basically, looking for 1.8mm spring bars but with the full length of a 2.0mm and with thicker ends to take up all the room in the lug hole." I know exactly what you are looking for. One of the things I have is a big spring bar accumulation from many years 'collecting' and being a silent partner in a watch store. Do I have any spring bars in 1.8mm tube size with long 1.2mm tips? No. Never have seen any. Yet. But no doubt they are out there somewhere. What I have seen is a few 20mm SB with 1.8mm center tubes and long .9mm +/- diameter tips in a
  13. Just for fun...does anyone know the ID and OD of a genuine 1655 bezel? I have three replica bezels and each one is a different size: 1...30.20mm ID 37.55mm OD 2.78mm tall 2...30.32mm ID 37.38mm OD 2.55mm tall 3...30.18mm ID 37.60mm OD 2.80mm tall I've tried three different aftmkt crystals and all three are different ID and OD. The watch has the 30.32mm/37.38mm bezel on it now with the closest fitting crystal of the three...from Cas-Ker a long time ago, I tried a crystal from ST and the ID was too small, one from Sternkreuz was way t
  14. "Is my 12yr old almost full bottles still good?" Moebiu$ says NO! Internet windbags say NO! I say probably but I'm a contrarian windbag. I bet a lot of repair guys are using oil that old.
  15. "My embarrassment comes from the fact that I have never been successful in putting a mainspring In the barrel back by hand!" After you get the MS started do not look at what you are doing...do it all by feel. Put your hands under a table so you will not be tempted to look. No kidding. My downfall is hairsprings. I am too slow working on them to be worth a hoot. 1. "Is the one sold in the holder just pressed in?" Yes. Carefully and flat. 2. "...and if so, are there any traps one needs too avoid from the spring flying out into my face?"
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