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automatico last won the day on July 19

automatico had the most liked content!

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About automatico

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  1. Do not know about Florida but they call them Texas Timex down in Texas from what I hear. Saw a guy from Dallas at a watch show 20+ years ago who had a bunch of yellow gold Day Date models in a brown paper bag that he had taken in at his pawn shop. I asked why he had them in a paper bag and he said: "To keep from getting robbed in the parking lot, nobody pays attention to a guy with a paper bag." I was wearing a yellow gold E. Gubelin on a leather strap at the flea market a while back and a guy said: "That's a purdy watch, whur'd-ye-git-it-at?" I said: "Wal Mart." He said: "Yeeeah, I seen-em down-air. Mite-git-me-wun."
  2. The easiest way is to try a movement with a dial in the case. You only need one movement...2824 or 2836. The stem will be centered in the case tube or it will not. The 2836 is a better choice if you need a date wheel overlay. Many vendors do not know the 2824 and 2836 use different cases. Same way with cases that sellers claim will accept rolex 3035 and 3135 movements.
  3. "From my point of view, this gen watch having been repaired and serviced several times with aftermarket parts, is still a gen." This of course is a matter of opinion. Imho a watch needs to have 100% genuine parts to be 'genuine', not 80 or 90%. Some internal parts can not be identified as genuine or aftmkt (mainsprings for example) so they pass as genuine. RWC does not make mainsprings anyway, they are made by General Ressorts. Stems and some internal wheels, screws etc are nearly impossible to tell but almost no one looks at them because they are fixated on cases, dials, hands, bezels, bracelets etc. A watch with a few aftmkt parts may pass as genuine but it is not 100% genuine. I have watches that are 100% genuine and some that would strain to be 90% genuine (aftmkt bracelet links for example). The difference is that I will tell what is what when I pass them on. The problem is when the next guy sells it and does not mention it is not 100% genuine. Trade shows and the internet are full of watches like this. I got a 34mm manual wind no date replica rolex in a trade 12 or 15 years ago that looked more or less genuine so I engraved "This ain't a real rolex Bud" inside the case back to keep someone from getting robbed on it and traded it away with full disclosure. A few years later a watch trader showed up with it bragging that he 'made out like a bandit' on a trade and got a 'rolex' for nearly nothing. I opened it up and showed him the inscription. We had a good laugh. He gave it to his kid.
  4. "Jolly funny that was too, until the fork truck fell over........" Fun with fork trucks! I dumped three (3) new in the crate Kawasaki 1600 Vulcan Nomad Garbage Wagons off a fork truck from up high, then ran into them. Was running WFO and had them up high so I could see where I was going. Cracked a lot of Tupperware. Garbage Wagon = dresser with baddle sags, shinweild, brash cars etc. The Boss said "What the Flak happened?" I said "You can't be in the Ichiban Club without breaking some eggs." Good thing I have known him since he was 3 years old. I still held the destructo record when I quit 11 years ago. Second place was a guy who dumped three (3) new Yamadog WaveRapers. Dumped one on the roll cage when he took off and two more when he slammed the brakes on to see what happened. They were not damaged...much. That chainsaw winder is a pretty good idea.
  5. "Sure glad Automatico chimed in, I wuz gonna suggest Vise-Grips!" I have a big V-G welded to a slide hammer...it'll make 'em come, bleed, or blister. I have not seen it all but... Saw a kitchen table watch fixer set the date on a slow set watch by running the crown down a yardstick with belt sander paper glued on it. Saw a cheapo fake submariner buried in a blob of Bondo with just the case sticking out at a body shop one time. They shook it up to make it run and used the bezel for a Bondo timer. Why didn't I think of that?
  6. "Would a TC movement holder work for you?" It might. Depending on the dimensions. An eta 2824/36/46 OD is 26.0mm at the widest spot. A 5512/13 case ID is 28.5mm at the widest spot where the movement mounts and there is a step down to about 27.5mm in the case wall before it gets to the dial seat (measurements are not always exact exact but very close). This is why a standard cartel generic flat side spacer is not a real good fit...the spacer needs to be made to precisely fit the OD of the movement and the ID of the case. Most replica cases are made for 26mm eta 28xx or DG/NN etc movements with dials up to about 27 or 28mm so the case usually has a smaller ID than a case made for a rolex 15xx movement that is 28.5mm wide. A genuine rolex spec case with a 15xx movement does not have a spacer, the movement is a snug fit in the case. The Catch: A no date 15xx rolex movement is 5.75mm thick and a date movement is a little over 6mm thick so the spacers need to be made in different thicknesses if they are also made to support the dial like a Stilty Spacer. That is one reason why he had the spacers made...so they would make it easier when putting an eta 28xx in a case made for a rolex 15xx using a rolex spec dial with the dial feet removed...the spacers have a flat surface that rises above the movement for the dial to rest on and it does away with the flimsy eta spacer. If a spacer is to be made just so it holds the movement in place and pushes the movement toward the dial by case clamp/screw pressure, it can be a 'universal' type that closely fits the case ID and movement OD and the thickness can be 'adjusted' by machining or sanding to make it thinner if needed. The thickness also determines how the case clamps will work because they need to go across the spacer and lock into the groove in the case...too thick and the clamp will not go into the groove, too thin and the clamp may not put enough pressure on the movement to hold it in place. Bending the case clamp to apply more pressure will help if the spacer is too thin but since most of them are relatively soft they may not hold their shape. I measured six (6) random brass cartel spacers and here are the different sizes: 28.0mm OD x 2.1mm thick 28.5mm OD x 1.70mm thick 28.5mm OD x 2.1mm thick 29.1mm OD x 2.3mm thick and two duplicates ID = They all were a hair over 26mm inside and an eta 28xx movement will drop through them all. No idea what they came out of and there are probably a lot more sizes available, so they are not all alike. I know I have made this seem a lot more complicated than it really is but if the spacer is not a good fit, the movement may slide back and forth when setting time/screwing the crown down and this will scuff the dial and minute markers. Stout case clamps will help a lot but a precision spacer is also needed.
  7. Seagull TY2555 http://www.startimesupply.com/product/CH-TY2555.html Also some on eBay, item numbers 401365015630 252963950580 272475333221 You may see them as CH2555. CH = Chinese.
  8. "$50 bucks for anyone who can get me a 2824 to fit 1530/5513 case adapter ring by Saturday. I am in NJ." Anyone who has not had the 'pleasure' of making one of these %^#*&@$ things on a manual lathe might not realize that $50 is not too much to pay. I made one yesterday out in the garage (90 degrees with a pissant fan aimed more or less toward me). First one was a hair too big ID because I was in a hurry and did not take the time to measure it accurately. I was afraid the movement might fall through the spacer if the movement was out of spec a hair or two. The next one is almost done and I may put it in a trophy case instead of the watch when I finish it. I have made quite a few spacers like this but making these things is touchy because if you screw up the last cut, you have to start all over and on my small lathe, it is like a rat eating a grindstone...small bites on a big brass washer. I used a 'Stilty Spacer' for a pattern and so far it looks like the second spacer will work Ok. All the Stilty Spacers were CNC made and iirc they were $30 or $40 each. I saved a couple for patterns. I can whittle you one out but it will be cool weather before I get back in the game...this one was a self inflicted 'emergency'. It will not be $50 either...less $$ but later. "...anyone handy with a lathe can make a precision 'Stilty' type spacer using a standard brass spacer in an hour or so." I call BS on the above statement made by some fool.
  9. Loosen the screw next to the stem (where it comes out of the movement) about a turn and a half or two turns...not the one circled in red.
  10. Well...never tried sticking loose lume on any hands worth over 50 cents a dozen but I have fogged a very thin coat of clear paint on the underside of quite a few ratty hands without getting any in the holes using a spray can from a distance. For higher $$ hands it may be better to use an air brush. This can change the lume color though. If you spray the hands laying on a sheet of paper, piece of wood etc the paint may stick the hands to the paper/wood etc and really make a mess out of it...you want the overspray to go into the air. Put a toothpick through the holes and stick the other end into something...I use modeling clay. Try this on a few $0 hands first. No guarantees. Never had a lot of luck brushing paint on hands because it may go on too thick and can pull more lume off of the hands.
  11. "It seems it is not just me that finds it hard to keep track of which 3135s are which. 2836 with cover plates, the movement Noob use that is dimensionally the same as the Rolex and the one BP uses which is pretty much the same as the Yuki." One easy way to tell is look at the reversers...the Yuki/SH3135 have red teeth on the reversers and the A3135 movements have red covers over the reversers and the teeth are silver colored. The modified '3135' etaclones are fairly easy to spot because they have the standard Eta 28xx reversers and the movement is easy to identify as an eta when compared to the other two. The Yuki/Asian ShangHai Super 3135 Clone Automatic Movement looks the best to me but I have never owned one.
  12. Made a few mistakes when typing the part numbers above: p/n 7829 is for center wheel and canon pinion for Rolex 1520/30/60 etc no date movements together in a pack p/n 7950 is for center wheel and canon pinion for Rolex 1525/75 etc date movements together in a pack p/n 8030 is for center wheel and canon pinion for Rolex 1565/75 date/GMT movements together in a pack p/n 8001 is for center wheel and canon pinion for Rolex 1556 Prez Day - Date movements together in a pack The hour wheel part numbers and sizes are correct.
  13. "...now I need someone who can service and ETA 2893-2 GMT movement." The 2893 is probably just about as easy as an eta 2824/36 to work on but many (including me) are not overly familiar with them. I have a few 2892 and even spent the $$ on a rotor bearing tool but that is as far as it went. What this means is most of the repair guys on RWG are probably like me...not as familiar with a 2892/3 as an eta 2824/36. Ask around, I'm sure someone can help. "...I feel that I should drop all the reps I have and go Gen. Also my beloved MBW 1665 which has a 1570 movement inside now it will not change dates." This will be an easy fix. It is a 50+ year old design, very easy to work on, and the date works only have about a dozen parts. The only problem is parts if you need anything...expen$ive and sometimes hard to find. Two common problems are worn reversers and rotor axles so be sure to have them checked, and a new mainspring is good insurance. Probably be a good idea to have it completely c/o while it is half way apart, taking care to properly oil the mainspring barrel arbor on both ends and thoroughly clean and properly oil the balance jewels, escape wheel jewels and pallet stones. The autowind assembly is very easy to c/o and it can be done in a half hour or so...just a few parts. When one of my 'mechanical marvels' takes a dump, I put my trusty Accutron II back on.
  14. Here are the sizes of various 15xx calibre Rolex hour wheels and canon pinions. Why? Because with some case/dial combos, they have to be swapped around like with the MBK projects mentioned above.   Rolex 1520/30/60 etc no date: hour wheel = 1.27mm high, p/n 7890 canon pinion = 2.2mm high, p/n 7889 both parts together p/n 7829 (not too hard to find)   Rolex 1525/75 etc date: hour wheel = 1.8mm high, p/n 7952 canon pinion = 2.75mm high, p/n 7951 both parts together p/n 7950 (easiest to find and the 7950 combo is available in high quality generic parts for $30 to $50)   Rolex 1565/75 date with GMT: hour wheel = 2.2mm high, p/n 8032 canon pinion = 3.15mm high, p/n 8031 both parts together p/n 8030 (these parts are pricey and very hard to find)   Rolex 1556 Prez Day - Date: hour wheel = 2.46mm high, p/n 8005 canon pinion = 3.4mm high, p/n 8004 both parts together p/n 8001 (these parts are hard to find but not much demand for them)
  15. "What you can get for less than the price of a used V72 alone !!! I sincerely doubt you can get any closer to gen on such a budget." I agree. Imho this is what a first class Daytona project should be. No high priced 'designer' case, no revamped, high $$ V72. Never was a fan of the V72, owned quite a few in the past but they were relatively cheap at the time. Had some trouble with them but parts were also cheap. Then V72 parts ran out and eBay happened along with the current vintage chronograph feeding frenzy and prices went crazy.