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automatico last won the day on July 19 2017

automatico had the most liked content!

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  1. Hodinkee: "So what is new about this watch? Well, for one it has a Jubilee bracelet that hasn't been seen on a GMT-Master since the vintage years and is only used on current Datejust models." It looks good. The tudor looks good too. I would like to see the back side of the bracelet to find out how they applied the rivets...might be like the solid link replicas. My new at the time (1989) 'Coke' 16760 GMT had a Jubilee although it may be considered 'vintage' by now. I paid $1465 for it out the door, I knew someone at the AD back then. Like a fool I sold it too soon. Only GMT I have now is a 555xxxx 'Pepsi' 1675 with the original Jubilee it came with (list price $795 in 1978). I paid $825 in 2007 to the original owner for it. Guess it will have to do because the new models cost too much for me.
  2. 5513 - CWP Crystal too loose. What's the fix?

    "You are better off reselling that crystal or saving it for a future project with a different midcase". Agree. "I went through the GS crystals I bought before ordering the CWP, and one of them - I believe the PA 462-19M - is damn near identical to the CWP, but with a smaller ID (fits like a glove). (Like an idiot, I may have mixed the envelopes up between that and a 462-20A, but I'm pretty sure this is the 19M.)" This is not much help but I had this same trouble when fitting crystals to David Wong aka 'DW' cases. The case neck is about 28.12 to 28.15 and the crystals are too big. When using an oem spec crystal retaining bezel there is a GS no mag domed crystal that fits. Do not know the number of course because I did not write it down. Not as lucky when using a DW case for a '1680' project because I have not found a magnifier crystal that works very well. The DW cases came with an odd size 'spring wire' bezel kit and a lot of the crystals were already cracked when they pressed the inner bezel down over them. DW '1680' bezel kits and crystals were not genuine spec. If I was 'The King of the World'...I would have all replica 5512/13/1680 cases made to oem specs. But I'm not...I'm just a pissant with a digital caliper.
  3. Ivan Dials

    "Rule #1 you don't talk about the Dark Lord. Rule #2 you can't reach the Dark Lord. Rule #3 don't mention his name 3 times in one post." This guy is making super good dials, knows someone who does, or he is going through what he has access to and picking out the best examples. That...or TTK is back from the Hereafter and selling dials. I've had a few 'refinished' dials... 'Paul' sold me some dials (1680, 'COMEX' 5514 etc) for $10USD each. Not real good but well worth the $$. No 'Singer' dial plates. Bought a dozen or so from Yuki over the years. Around $120 each and most were pretty good...6 or 7 on a 10 scale. Got 3 or 4 from IG44 for about $130 each (can not remember exact price), and they were a little better than Yuki. Have 3 or 4 'Phong' dials and they are pretty good too. Bought them from members at good prices. None are on 'original' Singer dial plates although some have Singer stamped on the back. The secret to a good dial is a scratched up crystal or a long sleeve shirt.
  4. Planing Steve McQueen 1655 Project

    Here is something else to think about: An all genuine rolex 1575 GMT movement with fine looking plates (no obvious scratches or corrosion), good screw heads etc will sell for about as much as a complete Frankenstein 1655 or 1675 GMT watch with a genuine rolex 1575 GMT movement no matter who made the case and dial (genuine dial/hands will go higher of course). For this reason it might be a good idea to maybe drop down a few notches and go to a swisseta 2846 GMT movement with an old type Asian non adjustable 24H hand conversion. These conversions are simple and trouble free in my experience. Complete 1575 GMT movements went for $1200 or $1500 about 25 years ago but now they are twice that much or more because RWC cut most of the parts off to convert a regular 1570/5 to a GMT. That and the fact that a 1675 GMT is around $8k and a 1655 is around $12k now (or more). Back then they were $3k or $4k and the 1655 was not much hotter than a 1675. Example: Here is a '1570' GMT movement for $3650 on eBay but it is really a 1565 GMT movement, not a 1575 GMT movement going by the 1560/5 'curb feeler' over the balance wheel and the regulator. It does have a 1570 auto-wind top plate though. Also no way to know if it even has a 24H hand because all the pictures are of the back side and ends. Buyer beware. eBay item number 263554434524 Some smile and cruise through life. Some stagger and struggle. Some get rich. Some go broke. ...and some get whacked.
  5. TC V7 Extreme value these days ?

    "What is TC?" https://rwg.cc/topic/142125-tc-submariner-housing-gen-3135-gen-parts-part-i/
  6. TC V7 Extreme value these days ?

    "...oh and you can find all the parts for an ETA or Sellita to keep it in good order, I highly doubt that is the case with a 3135 copy." Agree. I have always had a major problem with a durable product without parts availability. Motorcycles for instance...I've owned a lot of them and have never been denied an oem part from a dealer. Sure, the parts get to be obsolete but that is a fact of life and the parts become unavailable because they're obsolete and sold out, not because the AD will not sell them to you. Watches are another matter. Watch companies (especially the greedy swiss watch companies) want complete control of the product even if it was sold 10 years ago. After all, what good is a DOA watch with no parts available to repair it...or a watch where 'The Factory' demands you send it to them for a $700 'overhaul' for a $75 part. Not Good imho. Genuine rolex...I have owned quite a few and many of them needed parts sooner or later. Not too bad back when parts were available from supply houses but that is no longer the case. I know about 'official parts accounts' because we had one for 10 years but not now. For this reason I only wear a 4 digit watch with a 15xx movement if I wear one at all. Why? Because I have spare movements and parts for the oldies but not the newbies. I like the oldies better anyway. Btw, an 'official parts account' does not allow cases, bezels, dials, bracelets etc to be sold to general account holders. As for the SH 3135..they are nice and may accept a few genuine parts but I would still go with a swiss Eta 28xx of some sort. Why? Because they are rugged, reliable, easy to work on, and parts are plentiful, relatively cheap, and easy to find. Problems? Yes. DW overlays are a hassle for example along with dial foot location, hour wheel, CP sizes etc but these obstacles are relatively easy to overcome. Easier than finding a hairspring for an SH3135. My guess is there will be a lot of 'no longer running' SH3135 replicas for sale before too long. One thing I do like about the SH3135 is if you buy the latest 'New, Improved 1 to 1' submariner etc with one in it and install a genuine dial/hand set and genuine 3135, you will have a pretty good Frankenstein that you can turn back into a 100% replica quickly and easily. Just don't get the 'stein wet.
  7. Planing Steve McQueen 1655 Project

    Here is some info on the 1570/5 to GMT conversion: https://rwg.cc/topic/114671-rolex-1575-gmt-movement-questions Parts needed to convert 1570 w/date to GMT: #8038 - center second pinion 5.70mm #8037 - Cannon Pinion 3.39mm #8039 - double tooth hour wheel 2.44mm #8040 - 24hr wheel 1.41mm #8035 - Calendar Wheel nut #8036 - Date Jumper #8006 - Yoke for cam #8008 - spring for cam yoke #8011 - stud for cam #8030 - Center wheel with Cannon Pinion. #8034 - Calendar wheel (same as date movement ?). 8034, 8035, and 8011 are listed in a group on the Rolex sheets. The calendar spacer is not listed, p/n 7965 (iirc there is more than one p/n for this part). Plus two cases of Jack Daniels and about $2000 as I have said before. Shimming the date disc seat (calendar spacer) would be the low $$ way to go. The difference between the two movements is about 0.17mm. In reality the sweep second pinion is the same for no date, date, and GMT movements...the tubes on the second hands are made longer for the date movement and longer still for the GMT movement. Hard to find a GMT length ss hand in aftmkt parts although some ss hands come with long tubes and they need to be shortened for no date and date movements. There is also an aftmkt 'shortcut' GMT kit for a 1570/5 to GMT conversion with a modified minute wheel that has a 24 hour drive gear added to it plus a 24 hour wheel but you still need the genuine GMT canon pinion, hour wheel, and center wheel to give enough room for the 24 hour hand between the dial and 12 hour hand. Might need to space the dial up a hair too. The 24 hour wheel fit on top of the 12 hour wheel tube is usually a bit sloppy and I have not seen these kits a few years. If they were properly made they would have been a little better. Here is a picture of a shortcut kit (top pic): https://rwg.cc/topic/141303-cal-1570-gmt-tell-me-if-i-m-wrong/ Hard to believe the picture is still up.
  8. 1655 Movement Swiss Eta 2836 Modded to 1570 Calibre

    I looks like an Eta with an aftmkt rotor and red wheels (for looks) and a 24 hour conversion. I have one from 10 or 15 years back with an Eta 2836 and Asian 24 hour conversion. The 24 hour hand is not adjustable on mine and runs half speed in sync with the 12 hour hand.
  9. Super nice! I have seen a couple put together using a tudor jumbo flat side case that looked pretty good.
  10. 1665 DRSD- Crown question

    I believe I posted this before somewhere on the forum: I put an Athaya 700 'no dot' crown on a project watch for someone a while back and the case tube that was supplied with the crown would not screw into the case with oem standard 3.0mm x .35mm threads because the Athaya thread pitch was off a little bit. I ended up using a WSO 990 case tube but it would not screw into the case at first although the thread pitch was correct. I measured the OD of the WSO case tube and it was a hair too big so I polished the threads lightly with Simichrome polishing compound on a stiff 1 inch felt buff in a Dremel tool and it screwed in just fine. The WSO case tube appeared to be high quality and it was made out of stainless steel...eBay item number 161058556624. I just now looked at the WSO 700 case tubes on eBay and they are $50 each or $130 for 3. That's a lot of $$ but it might get you out of a jam. I do not know if this is always the story with the Athaya 700 case tube but iirc this has problem come up before with a few choosing to rethread the case...not the best fix imho. Rule 97: Make the part fit the watch, do not make the watch fit the part.
  11. Daytona ARF 4130 calibre clone

    "I find that exciting if NOOB release a 4130 clone, but how about the reliability of this future movement, when we see the issues reported by a ton of member with the 3135 clone....Needless to say that the Rolex 4130 is a more complicated piece ..." Agree. I believe they could make a high quality '4130' clone movement if they wanted to, but not for $150 or so. If they were able to sell the movements for $500, they could probably do it but that would make the watches cost $1500, maybe $2000. Maybe a better solution for a trouble free, fully functional 'Daytona' type chronograph engine would be quartz with smooth running sub seconds and central timing hand but that would require a high tech company to develop one...not an outfit used to cranking out hit or miss mechanical movements full of fuzz and dust. Ka-Choo! Otoh, my guess is that in another generation or so, mechanical watches will have fallen out of favor (again) and disappeared as a mainstream watch while people wear a version of a smart watch or a quartz watch of some sort. I do not see many people wearing mechanical watches now and have not for quite a while, it just costs too much to keep them running and they are too fragile and needy. Times are changing. Pun! Keep in mind that mechanical watches were nearly dead a few years ago because of the 'quartz crisis' and they were rescued by nostalgia but back then there were still quite a few watch repair shops around and lots of spare parts with lax parts policies compared to today. Today it's '$earch and beg for part$' and it takes 3 credit cards to pay the labor. As for the 'good 3135' clone (Yuki type)...the real reason behind it must have been to fool buyers with the look-alike movement in order to sell a replica watch as genuine. It just happened to be a pretty good movement, unlike the 'other' 3135 clone. Be that as it may, the nuts and bolts reason for someone to suffer the cost and inherent problems of the 'better' 3135 clone is because it is the right size (12.5 ligne) and genuine spec dials/hands/DW will fit. Imho a better solution would be a swiss Eta 28xx with a proper aftmkt DW and high quality aftmkt dial/hands with Eta dial feet (or genuine no foot dial). You can't see the movement anyway.
  12. Doubt about 1665 bevel / chamfers

    You can go to a search site, (Bing for example), type in 'rolex 1665' and look at dozens of examples with lug bevels of all types and find all kinds of variations. Lug bevels are hard to do by hand because after you work 2 or 3 hours on one and finally get it right...you still have 3 more to go, and they all need to be the same. Something I have noticed is when bevels are filed/ground/polished on lugs, the lugs often end up looking too thin from the top side and there is no fix for that. Bevels also make the spring bar holes appear to be closer to the top edge of the lug and this can look pretty bad sometimes. The bevel shape and condition also needs to match the overall condition of the watch. It looks like the JKF 1665 has plenty of metal to work with compared to many others. Lug tops are much like crown guards, you have to be very careful or you will mess the case up...and with lug tops you have 4 chances to screw up, not just one. I have tried making/improving bevels on numerous cases and some turned out Ok and some did not. Exercising restraint seems to be the way to go. When using sandpaper to form bevels, a flexible backing on the sandpaper can result in rounded edges on the bevels that do not look right and are not easy to fix. "The bevels in your photos are more pronounced than others I've seen. In some genuine watches the bevels are almost non-existent." I've noticed this too. If there is this much variation in genuine examples, I would say a replica can get away with just about anything within reason. Anyway, that's a good excuse to leave the CG alone on my MBK cases. Some of the most consistent bevels on my cases are on the old 5513/1680 cases from 'Paul' at Abay. The cases have flaws of course but this detail was fairly well done back then (early 2000s).
  13. Broken spring pin stuck in bracelet

    "Stops me from suffering terminal brain freeze when watching the never ending chaos on the news each morning – like America’s terminal inability to deal with the second amendment for example etc etc etc and the NRA’s solution being that to arm the teachers will solve the problem!!!" To quote a learned man: "The second amendment is not there to prevent a deer uprising." Almost all USA schools are 'Gun Free Zones'. Every lunatic knows this. Maybe that's why they attack schools. Would said lunatic rather attack a school with all teachers armed with a pencil sharpener...or a school with a few range qualified teachers armed with a Glock? What would be your solution? The 15:17 to Paris...
  14. Rolex 5513 Let's see some 5513s

    "Guys, what do you think is the best 5513 aftermarket case?!" That is a very, very good question. The problem is there are so many variations and any one 'brand', Yuki or Phong for instance, may not be exactly the same from one example to the next. It's basically the luck of the draw. Imho the best of the best are cases that started out with careful, accurate machining and shaping, are exact oem spec, and detailed by a pro. Correct stamping and engraving make a huge difference too. My guess is after a few years of wear, many high grade 'Frankensteins' will probably jump over into the 'genuine' category after the second or third owner. No telling how many have already made that jump. None of mine have ever been that good for that very reason. Two flaws I would not accept on a high $$ case is when the spring bar holes are drilled too high or low in the lugs or there is not enough 'meat' on the crown guards to 'spec them out' if needed. Amateur 'artificial aging' has ruined a lot of very good cases too. In many instances artificial aging turns out to be the Fatal Modification, turning a $1000 case into a $100 case.
  15. Building an MBW Sub

    The $400 price was an example. I paid about that much each for two new, running, MBK 1680, one with swiss Eta, hollow mid link bracelet, and one with etaclone and solid mid link bracelet. Parted out they will go for approximately: Around $100 for swiss Eta (looks like new, strong runner, good date wheel, not the usual junk), $40 for the etaclone (date wheel pumps it up). Dial and hands $25. Bezel kit $35 or $40 (I use ST or Clark). Hollow link bracelet, around $100, looks very good. Solid mid link bracelet, about $50, very good clasp. That leaves about $100 in one case and $200 more or less in the other one for an average of $150 each. Add $80 for a bezel kit, $12 for a crystal, $20 for an oem spec case tube, and $5 for gaskets = around $275. Not too bad. I use MBK cases because they accept genuine movements. If it was to be an Eta movement, I would go with a cartel case. If it was going to be a '21 jewel' movement, I would use a cat food can.