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automatico last won the day on October 3 2018

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  1. "In my case, since gen Rolex parts will always increase in value, why cash-out if you do not have to? Or, at least, that is my conclusion. Your mileage may vary." I appreciate the replies. f333: You are right about this. Other than an Eta or other non original type movement, many Frankensteins can not be identified by anyone other than an 'expert' and my guess is many will fool the experts. In my particular case, one big factor is my age and it is the main reason for the change in my attitude about Frankensteins. There are quite a few RWG members who are no longer 'spring chickens' and with age comes knowledge (maybe not so much) but changes in attitudes for sure...just ask Jimmy Buffett. MeEx: "For other pieces, which are more for fun, then I am absolutely willing to use ETA movements in those." I agree. Etas are ideal daily wear movements...low cost and reliable. As of now I have not removed any of the 15xx movements from my small 'Fleet of 'Frankensteins'...(5512, 5513, 1680) but I am planning to finish c/o the 1520 in the 5513, it's been apart for a year or so. Once in a while I will put one of the 15xx powered F-stein watches on and wear it for a few days because they seem to be very efficient auto winders and a few hours of wearing one will keep it running where the average Eta, A/S etc will often stop overnight. I must admit I am mostly a quartz watch guy (Accutron II now) and much earlier an Accutron 214/218 guy starting in 1971. Before that it was 'dollar biscuit' one jewel pocket watches and Timex. I have not put the 15xx movements in expensive cases, the 5512 and 5513 are MBK cases and the 1680 is a DW case. I have some supposedly 'higher grade' cases (Yuki 5512 and 5513, Phong 1655, IG44 1680) but have not put movements in them. The 1655 case is slightly used and since I finally have all the GMT parts for it, I may stick it together because I do not have anywhere else to go with the movement other than selling it. Jimmy Buffett - Changes In Latitudes, Changes In Attitudes: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Apu3HRjSpu4
  2. I still have mine! 'Noobmariner 101' for anyone who does not know about the 'noobmariner': https://rwg.cc/topic/13184-review-of-rolex-16610-submariner-noobmariner/ https://rwg.cc/topic/148265-got-a-noobmariner-very-impressed (the above has been referred to many times but it is hard to find) A 'noobmariner' turned into a 16800: https://rwg.cc/topic/77302-rolex-submariner-16800-and-168000/ May 2010: 'kloshar' "Where does it's reputation come from?" 'KBH' "In the early days of rep collecting, when there were only a few good subs available, two stood out above the rest. The Noobmariner and the MBK/MBW. The Noobmariner got its name when Pugwash did a review of the two of them and coined the term because it was cheap and therefor bought by lots of noobs (newbs). The Noob was sold by a few dealers including TTK and also Narikaa. The Noob was easily identified by the serial numbers they used on there case" (the original noobmariner was F520117)
  3. "Anyone knows when the 703 was introduced (if ever) on 5513?" If you look at pictures of 1982 to 1987 5513 they all have 3 dot type crowns on printed and applied marker models. Some might be 702 (both are 'triplock') but the main difference is the smooth area at the lower edge of the crown for the extra O ring on the outside of the case tube. 'Triplock' = two O rings inside the case tube and one under the crown cap. When there is one at the base of the crown, it is not counted. Factoids: No mater how many O rings the rolex crown/tube combo has, the same amount of pressure is applied to the one little bitty gasket between the case tube and case. That's why a high quality single O ring non screw down crown can go 50 meters or more and a double O ring crown can go 200 to 300 meters with no problem. One O ring crowns are good most of the time. Two O ring crowns can dive so deep your head will cave in. Three O ring clowns crowns can make it to the bottom of a 1000 meter deep vat of Night Train wine. Imho. https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/1982-rolex-submariner-reference-5513?variant=40591426767 https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/1987-rolex-submariner-reference-5513?variant=5435023654927
  4. "Yep, that is correct, 5512 PCG's are slightly thinner. No idea on the exact height." "I don't know the exact thickness. But I've had this discussion with Rolojack and he informed me that early 60s especially 5512 PCGs have thinner midcases." Some additional 5512/13 information (may have to copy/paste the links): http://hypebeast.com/2012/2/retrospect-1961-rolex-crown-guard-submariner-5512-chronometer-version https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/vintagerolexforum/couple-of-sub-questions-t37447.html https://rwg.cc/topic/186246-phong-5513-pointed-crownguard-case-rehaut-opening-question/ https://rwg.cc/topic/189490-rolex-5513-with-pointed-crown-guards-pics-of-during-and-after/
  5. Always liked the 214 Spaceview. The Bulova/Citizen 50th Anniversary 214 Spaceview reissue was very pricey, around $3k and they did not make a lot of them. They are known to be of the highest quality. This might be the next Spaceview: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/citizen-electrostatic-accutron-concept-movement-introducing Bulova/Citizen 50th Anniversary Spaceview: http://www.accutrons.com/accutron-spaceview-50th-anniversary Btw, in the TV series 'Nash Bridges' Don Johnson wore a Spaceview. ...and drove a Hemi 'Cuda ragtop. Sorta. The 'Cudas: https://www.motorauthority.com/news/1077305_nash-bridges-1970-plymouth-cuda-convertible-for-sale-on-ebay https://www.lowtek.com/nash/cudas/
  6. "Liking the Bulova better." Me too. I was scratching around in my project box and found a Mido Commander 'Prez' with Eta 2834 and dark red dial with acrylic crystal. Forgot about having it. It looks almost new (with box) but has the common 'Mido Ailment'...case tube/crown gasket fell apart, it is made out of cork. There is one on eBay...item number 352633834389
  7. Oniss also had a Prez look-alike with Eta 2834 similar to the Bulova Super Seville. Picture from tz-uk.com in early 2012: https://forum.tz-uk.com/showthread.php?208298-President-style-watches
  8. "I found that giving it about 20 winds twice a day will maintain the accuracy to about 3-5 seconds a day while wearing." In my experience...Eta 28xx automatics do not take kindly to hand winding other than 20 or 25 turns to get a movement going. They have a somewhat fragile autowind assembly (finicky reversers) and the crown wheel post made on the movement plate can wear rapidly if not lubricated properly because of the added friction of the autowind assembly when hand winding. When the reversers get dry or dirty, hand winding friction markedly increases causing more wear on winding parts. The 2801 series manual wind movements have no autowind parts so this reduces friction and wear when hand winding. I have worn a lot of Eta 28xx automatics and most will keep time within 10 or 12 sec/day when worn, many may be better. If they are laid down or put on a winder the rate may change. Most tend to become a bit erratic when not worn enough to keep them wound up or when getting close to running down. Imho... Quartz watches, accuracy claims, and screw down crowns have spoiled today's mech watch wearers (including me). Quartz watches because they are accurate, rugged, and basically trouble free. Accuracy claims by 'COSC' etc. tested watches. Screw down crowns because they make time correction more of a hassle. Trivia... In the old days Hamilton Watch Company used to brag about their RR Approved watches having 'Railroad Accuracy'. What was 'Railroad Accuracy'? Officially it was plus or minus 15 seconds a day...with a catch. The catch...All crew member watches had to be within 15 seconds of each other and within 15 seconds of the 'Official Time' when checked against the 'Chief Train Dispatcher's Official Time' when going on duty. Who must have a 'RR Approved' watch? All Transportation Department company officials, all train crew members, all dispatchers, all station agents, all Trainmasters/Road Foremen, and anyone in track maintenance management positions and/or anyone that worked where trains were running or were affected by train movements. Division Superintendent = the person in charge of a certain RR Division. Assistant Division Superintendent = assistant to the Div Supt (usually more than one). Division Engineer = the top official over the T&S of a division. T&S = all track and structures (all tracks, company land, and buildings). 'T&S' could also mean 'Track and Surface' if you were in the track/surface department etc. 'Surface' = land close to where the track was including the 'ballast' (rock). crossties, tie plates, spikes switches etc. Master Mechanic = the official over rolling stock, but not locomotives. Chief Electrician = over diesel/electric locomotives. Chief Dispatcher = the Train Dispatcher in charge of all train movements on their division. It was usually also an Assistant Division Superintendent position. Trainmaster = an official in charge of train crews on the division. Usually the division was split up with different Trainmasters being in charge of certain parts of it. Road Foreman = an official in charge of locomotive engineers and engineer trainees. They also had authority over other crew members, but mainly engineers and trainees. Trainmasters and Road Foremen were on duty 24/7 and had company cars and expense accounts. Many burned out, a few had to be 'reprogrammed' and some were 'retired' early for 'stress related issues'. Then there was the Mechanical Department over locomotives and rolling stock and the Signal Department over stationary train signals, electric switches etc. Etc, etc.
  9. I have been watching rolex 1520, 1560, 1570 no date and date movement and parts prices rise for the past 10 or 12 years. My conclusion from the rise in prices is a movement alone is now worth more than the value it might add to a 'Frankenstein' 1016, 5512/13, 1680, 1665, 1655/75 etc. Right or Wrong? For this reason, I am thinking about removing all 15xx movements from Frankensteins and sticking Etas in them or selling the cases/dials/bracelets for parts. I have a few cases for the movements so I can sell the movements 'naked' or in a case. Good or Bad idea? I am rapidly coming to the end of the run with these things because I have genuine watches needing attention so I can sell them and do not wear 'steins/replicas very often now.
  10. "On a related topic, would you get the ETA or the Clone movement?" I like swiss ETA because they are reliable, relatively cheap, and parts are available. Etaclones...not a fan. The 'good' 3135 look-alike is Ok from what I have read. The other 3135 clone...not so good. Afaik the 'good' 3135 clone is easy to spot because the reversers are all red like genuine and the 'bad clone' reversers have red tops and silver colored teeth. "Hah, none of my vintage Rolex are less than 37 years old!" My oldest rlx is a 1956 model and the newest has a cal 3130, probably about 10 years old. Never have worn either one, never will...the '56 because it has a 'npfu' 1065 mvt and the AK because I am allergic to rlx with sapphire crystals. I wear an Accutron II most of the time anyway. "I am old and reps are getting too expensive for my tastes." You and me both.
  11. "Do you know if a Tudor sub caseback will fit a 5513 case? I’ve seen some of those here and there." I do not know for sure but the older tudor subs looked like rolex cases of the same era. Had a genuine toot no date sub a few years ago with rolex signed folded oyster bracelet but I gave it away. ...gave it away! (3-17-01)
  12. "Measure the inside diameter of the threads in the case where the back screws in..." The oem spec on the case back threads is 30.9mm and for 55xx and 1680 the gasket should be mounted in the case back. SD is mounted in the case. I have seen some replica cases made for 15xx movements with gaskets in the case back but with 30.4mm case back threads...a few DW cases for instance. Seems that Yuki has dropped the 55xx cases and backs. "I have a MilSub caseback I don't need that might fit. It doesn't fit my MBW." My MBW/MBK cases will accept 30.9mm case backs. I put a 30.9mm thread size DW case back on one because the DW case back was stamped/engraved and the MBK was lightly laser etched (appeared to be). Yuki case back threads are also 30.9mm...just now measured one.
  13. "May I ask where are the sales forums??" Go to the home page and click on 'Trading Zone' and then click on Watches, Tools and Parts, or Straps and Bracelets.
  14. "He can be tricky to deal with. I wasn’t happy with his service or quality of the case I bought from him last time. I wouldn’t buy from him again." Sad but true. Pang... In my experience you are usually better off to buy parts from forum members, especially when starting out. The problem now is the sales forum has slowed down quite a bit and you may have to wait to find what you want. I have had good luck in the past with Yuki and a few others but the key word is 'lucky'. Something else...any of them can completely disappear from one day to the next. One thing you can always count on...the quality of the products can be inconsistent to say the least so if you get a good case or dial, hang on to it because the next one may not be as good.
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