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Everything posted by automatico

  1. I still have mine! 'Noobmariner 101' for anyone who does not know about the 'noobmariner': https://rwg.cc/topic/13184-review-of-rolex-16610-submariner-noobmariner/ https://rwg.cc/topic/148265-got-a-noobmariner-very-impressed (the above has been referred to many times but it is hard to find) A 'noobmariner' turned into a 16800: https://rwg.cc/topic/77302-rolex-submariner-16800-and-168000/ May 2010: 'kloshar' "Where does it's reputation come from?" 'KBH' "In the early days of rep collecting, when there were only a few good subs available, two stood out above the rest. The Noobmariner and the MBK/MBW. The Noobmariner got its name when Pugwash did a review of the two of them and coined the term because it was cheap and therefor bought by lots of noobs (newbs). The Noob was sold by a few dealers including TTK and also Narikaa. The Noob was easily identified by the serial numbers they used on there case" (the original noobmariner was F520117)
  2. "Anyone knows when the 703 was introduced (if ever) on 5513?" If you look at pictures of 1982 to 1987 5513 they all have 3 dot type crowns on printed and applied marker models. Some might be 702 (both are 'triplock') but the main difference is the smooth area at the lower edge of the crown for the extra O ring on the outside of the case tube. 'Triplock' = two O rings inside the case tube and one under the crown cap. When there is one at the base of the crown, it is not counted. Factoids: No mater how many O rings the rolex crown/tube combo has, the same amount of pressure is applied to the one little bitty gasket between the case tube and case. That's why a high quality single O ring non screw down crown can go 50 meters or more and a double O ring crown can go 200 to 300 meters with no problem. One O ring crowns are good most of the time. Two O ring crowns can dive so deep your head will cave in. Three O ring clowns crowns can make it to the bottom of a 1000 meter deep vat of Night Train wine. Imho. https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/1982-rolex-submariner-reference-5513?variant=40591426767 https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/1987-rolex-submariner-reference-5513?variant=5435023654927
  3. "Yep, that is correct, 5512 PCG's are slightly thinner. No idea on the exact height." "I don't know the exact thickness. But I've had this discussion with Rolojack and he informed me that early 60s especially 5512 PCGs have thinner midcases." Some additional 5512/13 information (may have to copy/paste the links): http://hypebeast.com/2012/2/retrospect-1961-rolex-crown-guard-submariner-5512-chronometer-version https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/vintagerolexforum/couple-of-sub-questions-t37447.html https://rwg.cc/topic/186246-phong-5513-pointed-crownguard-case-rehaut-opening-question/ https://rwg.cc/topic/189490-rolex-5513-with-pointed-crown-guards-pics-of-during-and-after/
  4. Always liked the 214 Spaceview. The Bulova/Citizen 50th Anniversary 214 Spaceview reissue was very pricey, around $3k and they did not make a lot of them. They are known to be of the highest quality. This might be the next Spaceview: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/citizen-electrostatic-accutron-concept-movement-introducing Bulova/Citizen 50th Anniversary Spaceview: http://www.accutrons.com/accutron-spaceview-50th-anniversary Btw, in the TV series 'Nash Bridges' Don Johnson wore a Spaceview. ...and drove a Hemi 'Cuda ragtop. Sorta. The 'Cudas: https://www.motorauthority.com/news/1077305_nash-bridges-1970-plymouth-cuda-convertible-for-sale-on-ebay https://www.lowtek.com/nash/cudas/
  5. "Liking the Bulova better." Me too. I was scratching around in my project box and found a Mido Commander 'Prez' with Eta 2834 and dark red dial with acrylic crystal. Forgot about having it. It looks almost new (with box) but has the common 'Mido Ailment'...case tube/crown gasket fell apart, it is made out of cork. There is one on eBay...item number 352633834389
  6. Oniss also had a Prez look-alike with Eta 2834 similar to the Bulova Super Seville. Picture from tz-uk.com in early 2012: https://forum.tz-uk.com/showthread.php?208298-President-style-watches
  7. "I found that giving it about 20 winds twice a day will maintain the accuracy to about 3-5 seconds a day while wearing." In my experience...Eta 28xx automatics do not take kindly to hand winding other than 20 or 25 turns to get a movement going. They have a somewhat fragile autowind assembly (finicky reversers) and the crown wheel post made on the movement plate can wear rapidly if not lubricated properly because of the added friction of the autowind assembly when hand winding. When the reversers get dry or dirty, hand winding friction markedly increases causing more wear on winding parts. The 2801 series manual wind movements have no autowind parts so this reduces friction and wear when hand winding. I have worn a lot of Eta 28xx automatics and most will keep time within 10 or 12 sec/day when worn, many may be better. If they are laid down or put on a winder the rate may change. Most tend to become a bit erratic when not worn enough to keep them wound up or when getting close to running down. Imho... Quartz watches, accuracy claims, and screw down crowns have spoiled today's mech watch wearers (including me). Quartz watches because they are accurate, rugged, and basically trouble free. Accuracy claims by 'COSC' etc. tested watches. Screw down crowns because they make time correction more of a hassle. Trivia... In the old days Hamilton Watch Company used to brag about their RR Approved watches having 'Railroad Accuracy'. What was 'Railroad Accuracy'? Officially it was plus or minus 15 seconds a day...with a catch. The catch...All crew member watches had to be within 15 seconds of each other and within 15 seconds of the 'Official Time' when checked against the 'Chief Train Dispatcher's Official Time' when going on duty. Who must have a 'RR Approved' watch? All Transportation Department company officials, all train crew members, all dispatchers, all station agents, all Trainmasters/Road Foremen, and anyone in track maintenance management positions and/or anyone that worked where trains were running or were affected by train movements. Division Superintendent = the person in charge of a certain RR Division. Assistant Division Superintendent = assistant to the Div Supt (usually more than one). Division Engineer = the top official over the T&S of a division. T&S = all track and structures (all tracks, company land, and buildings). 'T&S' could also mean 'Track and Surface' if you were in the track/surface department etc. 'Surface' = land close to where the track was including the 'ballast' (rock). crossties, tie plates, spikes switches etc. Master Mechanic = the official over rolling stock, but not locomotives. Chief Electrician = over diesel/electric locomotives. Chief Dispatcher = the Train Dispatcher in charge of all train movements on their division. It was usually also an Assistant Division Superintendent position. Trainmaster = an official in charge of train crews on the division. Usually the division was split up with different Trainmasters being in charge of certain parts of it. Road Foreman = an official in charge of locomotive engineers and engineer trainees. They also had authority over other crew members, but mainly engineers and trainees. Trainmasters and Road Foremen were on duty 24/7 and had company cars and expense accounts. Many burned out, a few had to be 'reprogrammed' and some were 'retired' early for 'stress related issues'. Then there was the Mechanical Department over locomotives and rolling stock and the Signal Department over stationary train signals, electric switches etc. Etc, etc.
  8. I have been watching rolex 1520, 1560, 1570 no date and date movement and parts prices rise for the past 10 or 12 years. My conclusion from the rise in prices is a movement alone is now worth more than the value it might add to a 'Frankenstein' 1016, 5512/13, 1680, 1665, 1655/75 etc. Right or Wrong? For this reason, I am thinking about removing all 15xx movements from Frankensteins and sticking Etas in them or selling the cases/dials/bracelets for parts. I have a few cases for the movements so I can sell the movements 'naked' or in a case. Good or Bad idea? I am rapidly coming to the end of the run with these things because I have genuine watches needing attention so I can sell them and do not wear 'steins/replicas very often now.
  9. "On a related topic, would you get the ETA or the Clone movement?" I like swiss ETA because they are reliable, relatively cheap, and parts are available. Etaclones...not a fan. The 'good' 3135 look-alike is Ok from what I have read. The other 3135 clone...not so good. Afaik the 'good' 3135 clone is easy to spot because the reversers are all red like genuine and the 'bad clone' reversers have red tops and silver colored teeth. "Hah, none of my vintage Rolex are less than 37 years old!" My oldest rlx is a 1956 model and the newest has a cal 3130, probably about 10 years old. Never have worn either one, never will...the '56 because it has a 'npfu' 1065 mvt and the AK because I am allergic to rlx with sapphire crystals. I wear an Accutron II most of the time anyway. "I am old and reps are getting too expensive for my tastes." You and me both.
  10. "Do you know if a Tudor sub caseback will fit a 5513 case? I’ve seen some of those here and there." I do not know for sure but the older tudor subs looked like rolex cases of the same era. Had a genuine toot no date sub a few years ago with rolex signed folded oyster bracelet but I gave it away. ...gave it away! (3-17-01)
  11. "Measure the inside diameter of the threads in the case where the back screws in..." The oem spec on the case back threads is 30.9mm and for 55xx and 1680 the gasket should be mounted in the case back. SD is mounted in the case. I have seen some replica cases made for 15xx movements with gaskets in the case back but with 30.4mm case back threads...a few DW cases for instance. Seems that Yuki has dropped the 55xx cases and backs. "I have a MilSub caseback I don't need that might fit. It doesn't fit my MBW." My MBW/MBK cases will accept 30.9mm case backs. I put a 30.9mm thread size DW case back on one because the DW case back was stamped/engraved and the MBK was lightly laser etched (appeared to be). Yuki case back threads are also 30.9mm...just now measured one.
  12. "May I ask where are the sales forums??" Go to the home page and click on 'Trading Zone' and then click on Watches, Tools and Parts, or Straps and Bracelets.
  13. "He can be tricky to deal with. I wasn’t happy with his service or quality of the case I bought from him last time. I wouldn’t buy from him again." Sad but true. Pang... In my experience you are usually better off to buy parts from forum members, especially when starting out. The problem now is the sales forum has slowed down quite a bit and you may have to wait to find what you want. I have had good luck in the past with Yuki and a few others but the key word is 'lucky'. Something else...any of them can completely disappear from one day to the next. One thing you can always count on...the quality of the products can be inconsistent to say the least so if you get a good case or dial, hang on to it because the next one may not be as good.
  14. Always liked that song. A man with a new, shiny mechanical watch knows exactly what time it is. A man with two new, shiny mechanical watches is not so sure...
  15. Looks good! Quartz is hard to beat. Accurate. Reliable. Not fragile like a mechanical watch.
  16. keeper: "I'm sure you don't have a Swiss movement in your rep. I'd hope you'd not send it to SSTEEL..that'd make the pain worser." "And another point...you can't put a Swiss movement in this case." Sogeha; "At this stage I would advise you to resist posting any further in this thread, you have made your opinions known, without being particularly helpful to the OP." +1 My question is: Is keeper a 'keeper'?
  17. "The area that leaks in most watches is the crown. The case tube o-rings, or the crown is not tight enough. I don't think you should take a gen into salt water, let alone a rep." +1 Another place to look for leaks is where the case tube screws into the case. I use a Bergeon 5555/98 to find leaks with the movement out of the watch. I put a regular Schrader air valve like used on aluminum wheels in place of the pressure release valve and can pump it up as high as 100 psi (6 or 7 atm) with an air tank, not with the pissant pump on the tester. The catch is air will escape from between the bezel and case plus anywhere air is trapped first test or two making it hard to pinpoint the leak but sooner or later you can narrow it down to exactly where it is. Fancy high pressure, very high $$ dry testers are Ok but they are not too hot for finding where the leak is unless it puffs smoke in the dome. If the leak is big enough it can blow the crystal out...the reason for removing the movement. Sometimes you can run up on an old Bergeon 5555 for not much $$ and convert it to a 5555/98 with the higher pressure kit for around $200. Money spent on a tester beats a box of rusty Etas...or a rlx 1570 (I have one of them already).
  18. "Cleaning gold is very different to cleaning steel." I use a double sided 'Fabulustre' cloth to remove tarnish and polish the surface if needed. It has a very mild polishing compound applied to the (red) cloth and the other side is a soft (light yellow) polishing cloth. When using polishing compound on a soft cloth (I use mostly Wenol Ultra Soft), it is a good idea to apply the compound to the polishing cloth and rub it in the cloth and not apply it directly to the watch. When you apply the paste directly to the object it can sling into spaces between bezels etc. I do not use powered buffers on solid gold, especially 18k, hand polish only. Besides removing too much material, powered polishing wheels can catch an object and send it into orbit. A few of my friends are in the gold and diamond buying/trading/selling business and they can usually spot solid gold watches right off. I can tell sometimes but do not have an exact explanation why but it may be because solid gold has a warm, subdued appearance and plating is usually shiny and harsh.
  19. "I posted a picture of my gen 1665 over on VRF and got a reply "bad dial and hands." Ice on the crystal.
  20. "franken junker" (!!) My feelings are hurt. Some of my best watches are franken junkers. Ha! "The vintage rolex marketplace is a minefield and those that don't know will get fleeced!" Fer sure.
  21. I look at genuine rlx forums every few days for two reasons: 1...To learn something. 2...To have a laugh. My favorite forum is VRF aka VIRDBIF (Village Idiot Rolex Dial/Bezel Insert Forum) They obsess 24/7 about dials and bez inserts while a rotted out case does not seem to bother them at all. Here is what makes me laugh: Someone will post a picture of a watch or dial and ask "Is this dial Ok?" The comments will be... "It's Ok." "Maybe it is a service dial." "Looks like it's been touched up." "It might be refinished or fake." "It is an outright fake!" "It is a horrible fake, anyone can tell that!" (after it fooled them all for a week) "It is garbage!" "They oughta hang the guy who made it!" Sometimes followed by: "Wonder where came from?" "eBay." "No, it's better than that.,.but it is still atrocious." "Yukiwatch maybe?" "Nah, I doubt it." "Looks like a Vietnam dial to me." Maybe they want to know where it came from so they can buy one... There are a few guys on there who know what they are talking about and I respect them but it seems the newbies are getting goofier as time goes by. I'll admit many (most?) of the better replica dials will fool me but it does not matter that much because I am not into paying $25k for $2000 watches in the first place.
  22. "Suppose you have a 2834-2 and a dial without feet, gluing a dial directly onto one of these plastic rings must not interfere with the dial window diameter of your case." I have done something similar a few times...machine a brass movement spacer that is a close fit on the movement and a close fit in the case with a ledge at the top for the dial to mount on and glue the dial to the spacer or use the infamous 'dial dots'. Next, bend the case clamps so they will apply quite a bit of pressure on the movement to keep everything in place. (The dial was originally made to fit a rlx 15xx movement) This is how I mounted the movement and dial in my JMB '1016'. I used a 2824/2846 combo movement...2824 plates with 2846 running gear to make a thin 21600 bph movement that fits in the case made for a 2824. I never used a 2834 spacer but it sounds like a very good idea.
  23. Just for fun, here is what the guts look like: https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/2309-eta-7750-service-walkthrough-the-industry-standard-chronograph/ The worst part is having to fool with all the hands.
  24. "Guess the rubbed off model # and SN kept people away..." I bet that is what killed it. I went way too high on my guess. Of all the rolexjunk I have owned, there is only one that looks as bad as this 1016...a 1601 tutone. The 14kyg bezel is worn down so far that it no longer has any flutes left on it, just shallow grooves and it has the same type of spotted case corrosion as the 1016 between the lugs. If you look at the corrosion under a 20X microscope you can see that it is a collection of tiny holes in the metal. I can just barely make out the serial number...283xxxx. Still have the case and faded blue dial, the movement went in Stilty's Yuki '1680' 10 or 12 years ago. Had one other 1601 with this type of corrosion and it had a hole all the way through the top of the case under the bezel...got my $$ back on it.
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