tomhorn

I believe Vac does. He's CONUS.

The v3 was the last version of the 3717 to come out. Now that the 3777 is out, I'm not sure if it's still available from the dealers. If you aren't wanting to mod the watch then it's the best out of the box. Stay away from the v2 because the dial lume is wrong. The v1 has the best dial, but lacked AR from the factory. Personally I would find an M2M sale that had the ETA date wheel swap, and aftermarket AR already done if you are looking for 'the best'. Those are the two easiest and IMO, must have, mods. You could also check with Vac and see if he can still do one for you.

+1 on the White Lightning. Works great!

If the base dial itself looks good, I'd offer the maker double the price if they fixed the markers and numbers. Even for someone on a budget, those are bad. Paying $100 for a good 1016 dial is still a bargain.

Definitely not the US ... and Doc, there is no way Germany doesn't make it out of our group. They can beat us and Ghana with on leg tied behind their backs ...

IIR you have to have a minimum number of posts once you join before you are allowed to link in your posts. Can't remember the number, but that's likely why it's not working. From the descriptions in the links, you are looking at two watches that will likely have problem movements. The seconds at 6 and seconds at 12 reps have transfer gears in them to move the seconds hand from 9 o'clock position (that the movement was designed for) to the other places on the dial. I personally would not recommend buying either, unless you are prepared to deal with them when they eventually break down. Three posts in six years isn't being much of a member, so don't be surprised if you don't get much more help.

558 or 580 depending on the bracelet. Based on your description of it coming from a Sub, I'd say 580's. MMM would probably be able to confirm for you if you aren't sure what bracelet you have. My slightly older cousin says hello ...

Members rarely have a problem with 'newbie' questions unless it's painfully obvious that the poster hasn't bothered to even look around for a minute. Many make fun of the dreaded "who has the best Sub" question, and can be harsh to those people who join the forum, ask that question and then disappear to never again contribute. Most people aren't trying to bully, they are just letting the poster know that the general etiquette of the forum is that members should at least do a bit of looking around to see if the answer is already out there, instead of just expecting members to spoon feed them. It's a community after all. I personally try to be helpful when I know the answer to someone's question regardless of how new they are to the forum, but am certainly guilty of telling people to search when they ask a question that has been asked and answered many times or doesn't have an answer based on the information that's been presented. I do try to do it in a non "meet me outside" kind of way though ....

I sent him a PM yesterday without issue. You can also try RG, where he goes by the moniker "Your Unique Watches".

Any trusted dealer should be able to get a watch that is found at a non trusted dealer (assuming the watch is really available and not just a scam). I would grab a picture of what you are looking for, send it to your preferred dealer and see what they come back with instead. As for a marketing description of "VVS quality CZ's", it's probably just hype.

Fun event. Love the city. You'll have a blast ...

As far as I know he's still in business. Did you not get a response when contacting him through the link I posted above?

What would your low-beat preference be? I am about to build a 5514 and was planning on a 2846 powering it.

Selita SW500 or the Valgranges A07.211 are the only things that would be 'plug and play' with the same caveat of needing to modify the A7750's hands to fit.

You could have bought that watch for between $250-$300 on ShopNBC, which is the major hawker of the Invicta line. It's also available on Amazon for $329.99. The 8926 I always thought was a good value at around $80-$100, especially with the newer movement. It's about like buying a noob Sub, but a little better quality. I just dislike the company as a whole, especially their uber inflated MSRP's and the way they sell on ShopNBC. Watch one show with the President (Eyal) and you'll feel slimey even through the TV. I'll give them credit for moving away from their initial business model after the company moved to the US (which was producing low quality knockoffs of established watches), but now I don't think they build a men's watch that's much less than 47mm. Even if I wanted to, I couldn't wear much of what they produce.

Plenty of 1016 build threads for you to review, which will help you with your choices. If I recall, the JMB case is designed for a 2824. A gen dial will need it's feet cut off to work with that movement. Alternatively, you could check with Whoopy and see if he has any of his Explorer dials left with ETA feet.

Solar roads ... http://www.washingtonpost.com/blogs/innovations/wp/2014/05/20/forget-roofs-are-solar-roads-the-next-big-thing/

Oh good .... I have another new friend ....

The current modern fully functional Daytona with seconds at six has a very unreliable movement from the factory due to the friction caused by the additional transfer gears that have to be added to the A7750 to get the subdials correctly placed. There are a couple of mods that can be done to help this (the graphite mod and Domi's jewel add mod), but you are basically looking at a crap shoot for how long the movement will last before it dies. All of the dealers can get the same watches. If you want to have something more reliable, you can get the version without the working chronograph. If I were buying one, I'd get the fully functional version and send it off to Domi for his jewel mod.

If you are in the US, and not tied to a charity, in most States you are probably going to jail. In every State there are specific laws governing these types of things. For example, in California you have to be a non-profit and the majority of the gross sales has to go to charity. I say this in all seriousness as someone who has run legal online gaming companies, and is very familiar with the various laws regarding gambling, raffles, lotteries and other similar forms of games of skill and games of chance. Having someone buy a poster to get a 'free' raffle ticket is just semantics. If you get big enough to get noticed, a prosecutor will slice through that argument in a matter of minutes. You'll be doubly exposed if you do it online. Even when doing charity fundraising, given your description of how this is going to work (free tickets to a raffle) you will still need to give away free entries into the drawing to anyone who asks, regardless of whether or not they buy a poster. Which pretty much kills your business model. If you want to proceed, then I would suggest you contact a lawyer that specializes in US gaming laws and check all 50 States. Only sell 'posters' in those States that you get clearance for. Assuming you clear that hurdle, how are people going to pay you for the 'poster'? You'll find it next to impossible to find a bank that will process those types of transactions for you thanks to the UIEGA.. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unlawful_Internet_Gambling_Enforcement_Act_of_2006 And Operation Choke Point: http://www.theguardian.com/money/2014/mar/23/operation-choke-point-payday-lenders-issa-banks Just so everyone knows, Best of the Best is not a US company. Laws are different in the UK.

The reason it took so long to sell was probably the price. I didn't see the for sale post so I'm not implying that you paid too much, but the Little Hero PAM 111's were around $1,000 depending on which version you have. At the time they came out they were easily the best 111 rep you could buy (think TC or WM9 Sub). Since then, the base 111 reps have gotten so much better that not everyone would still see the added value of the Little Hero. If the Noob factory came out with a Sub that was as good as their 111, you'd probably see a lot more TC and WM9 Subs not selling quickly too..

I know that with the 2836 modified movements that 24hr hand slippage can be an issue. I had it happen a couple of times with my sterile PAM063.

The difference in those links is because you are looking at two different models, the Classic Sub (16610, now discontinued) and the Ceramic Sub (116610, current model). They should both be 40mm. WE might have an error.

Have seen them with a 7836 folded oyster bracelet and with a 62510 jubilee.

Where are you located?