tomhorn

I considered myself very lucky to find a complete 16014 case set (case, crown, tube, crystal, 18k WG bezel) for $220 (inc. PP and shipping) a couple of months ago. Even the aftermarket WG bezels are going for $150-$200 alone. Have seen some sellers ask $300 for the gen WG bezel (which is way too high IMO). The prices on Rolex parts on eBay are getting out of control. You have to be very, very, patient these days to find something priced well. Still kicking myself for missing the end time for the Tropic 22 that went for $21.51 a couple of weeks ago.

+1 and +1 and +1 I had great transactions with Eurotimez .... After reading this thread with all of the Admin's background info provided, add me to the list of those wondering why GSW wasn't banned too. If there was enough evidence to ban Rockarep because he is the same person as GSW, then that 'person' violated the rules, not that 'username'. Shouldn't matter if he has 2 or 20 accounts.

Apple does make great hardware. I love my 13" MacBook Pro. Yes, it was expensive compared to others with similar specs, but the fit, finish and design of the MBP is difficult to beat. Having said that, I rarely run it in OSX, but mostly Linux or Windows7. Love the hardware, just don't like OSX. The 13" MBP is not even remotely a gaming rig though. The 15" and 17" at least have dedicated graphics cards and would be OK for mid-range gaming. With any computer it's all about finding the best setup for what you actually use it for.

Check this thread. http://www.rwg.cc/to...with-gen-val23/

Read the IWC section. Plenty of options in the pilot chronos or the MK XVI.

At a $700 limit the Spinmaster is your best option. Spinmaster is his username on most of the rep boards. You can also look for them on the sales boards. Here is his 6263 thread for starters. http://www.rwg.cc/topic/86745-dw-6263/

Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but other than for some specialty 1:1 repss, all the dealers can get the same watches. If Andrew can't source one, it probably doesn't exist. Unfortunately, the YM II isn't that accurate a rep, and if you are trying to find a 'perfect' one, you will ultimately be disappointed.

For the Daytonas, I'd say search the for sale section for frankens if money isn't an issue. You can try to go to Spinmaster or Phong (www.jewelryandwatch.com) for the 6263. The modern Daytonas from the dealers all suffer from the dreaded seconds at 6 issue and are best avoided.

I got the 'you need to secure your account' message this morning. Wanted me to select security questions. Everything I tried failed, so I ended up skipping it. No other problems that I can tell.

You're not the only one apparently ... http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970s-Rolex-Dial-Mens-Black-Red-Dominos-Piepan-Slowset-Datejust-Watch-Dial-/330743072250?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d01d2c5fa#ht_992wt_952

I would always factor in a service, but fair warning the service on this movement will not be cheap. Of course you are probably used to it since you've built a couple of v72 Daytonas ... This one looks pretty clean actually from what can be seen in the pictures, so you might be able to get away with not doing it immediately. Good luck!

Yep they will both work. Am guessing you will be around $1,500 USD on the low end. BigCrown had one listed at $1,600 but I believe it sold. Here's a gorgeous Movado on the Bay at $1,850 BIN. http://www.ebay.com/...#ht_1145wt_1139 And another that's taking bids. http://www.ebay.com/...d#ht_645wt_1396 And a BIN at $1,600. http://www.ebay.com/...#ht_1714wt_1163 The Ebel movement shows up in the 1911 series. Be careful though because Ebel switched to the Caliber 137 which is an in-house movement that will not work. You need the 134.

Have you looked for the Movado 3019 or the Ebel 134 variants?

I just got lucky on a 16014 case. Looked pretty rough in the pictures, but when I got it I was amazed at how good of shape it was actually in when it arrived. Paid far less for the whole case (including crystal, crown and tube) than I would have just buying the white gold bezel, which is what I was really after. Perhaps the seller cleaned it up before sending, but now I have a really nice second caseset to do something with ... Have been looking at the 1016 Explorer threads as of late. Maybe will go that route ...

This sale always runs on specific dates. If you aren't seeing anything then it probably hasn't started yet. There are the occasional good buys during these sales. Always worth a look.

This is a simple mixup. PT sent the wrong item, but you approved the QC pics. As Watchmeister said, it's probably not economically worth it to ship the bracelet back to China, but since the BCE is a fairly common rep, I'm sure you could sell the bracelet without too much trouble. Work out a deal to order another one from him and try again.

If you have any of these left for the 2824, I am looking for two. Thanks!

OS is correct. Be very careful when picking up a donor watch for your project. Parts can be very expensive and the service itself is also quite pricey. It's often hard to tell from pictures, but make sure whatever you are looking at is clean inside, without any obvious rusting or missing parts. You do not want the v72c or v730, both of which have calendar date complications which would have to be removed. I also never did get confirmation from anyone that they would actually be an option even after removing the complications. I believe v72, v722, v726 and v727 should work without issues. You can also look for the Certina, Longines and Wittnauer movements (among others) which are not always labeled as v72s but actually are. Here are a few that I believe will work from my research: Certina 29-052 Certina 29-0531 Certina 29-063 Longines 330 Wittnauer 13W-2 If you are shopping on eBay the only chance you have at getting one for a decent price is to find someone that didn't know what they had when they posted the listing. Anything that is actually listed as having a v72 will always go for a premium price these days. Good luck with your search!

There is a whole section on the forum for trusted dealers. http://www.rwg.cc/forum/230-watches-clothing-accessories/

Maxse ... this says it all, and you keep repeating it. Seriously, just stop, and go buy a gen or have one of those guys help you find you a used one. Failing that, you need to build (or buy) a franken that has all gen parts except the movement. You are clearly wanting a watch that will survive the inspection of two people that know the model, and will likely be able to easily spot a replica of the model you say you have to have to be happy. You wouldn't be asking all the detailed questions you are asking if you were not worried about being called out by your friends. Don't think you are not going to have to take it off your wrist and show it to them if they are buyers and sellers of used watches. It's going to get a close inspection, and a rep (especially one with rehaut engraving and the bracelet you want) is not going to get you there with just a dial swap. If you were just hanging out or working with others where that watch would fit in, or are willing to tell your friends up front that it's a rep, you would probably be fine. That doesn't appear to be what you are looking for though.

So you are looking for a 116200 then? Hard to be sure, but this is probably the Rhodium (silver) dial. In general, the Rolex engraved rehauts are not very accurate on reps. If that is important to you, then you are looking at the wrong series. Would still recommend you go with an older series (16200 if you want a smooth bezel). You'll lose the polished center links on an Oyster bracelet, but the watch will be more accurate. Gen 'sticks' dials as opposed to Roman dials will also be more reasonably priced when it comes to buying a gen dial. Since you'll have to cut the feet off the dial to install it, that's a factor in the decision making process for many people. You should probably reach out to JMB. Check his posts on franken DateJust builds. Lots of good information there.

XVI is a much better rep. Far more accurate.

It's good, but it's still rep AR and a little too blue IMO. My pic above is a v1 with a Taka AR'd crystal and the ETA day/date wheels. It was also re-lumed by Vac.

Out of the box the 3717 v3, and MK XVI are very good. With two mods they are excellent. You should get the ETA datewheel(s), and aftermarket AR coating for the crystal first if you are going to mod.

If you want someone close by, I have used Rex450 over on the Geek. He is near Philly.