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omgiv

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Posts posted by omgiv

  1. I was only looking at 16520's. One of then was a T series from 1996 that has the shorter coronet. It has Rolex service papers from 2009 that says "polish monobloc crown". I also looked at another T, U, and W serial with the taller coronet. I am still trying to find a fat coronet that is not monobloc. That would make things very easy. It would seem that a monobloc crown would be okay. Any additional help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!!!

  2. I am sorry to bother you guys and I certainly don't want to beat a dead horse. I just don't feel like I have my mind wrapped around it yet.

    Have you seen a 703 crown in packaging with the fatter coronet? I have looked and cannot find a reference. I see mention of the fat coronet as a 703 but none are in packaging. Are all of the fat coronets monobloc and then designated 704?

    I just did a quick search on eBay and saw some 16520's with 703 (tall coronet) and some with the fat coronet. Still so confused and the Rolex

    R20's are no help. Thanks for any enlightenment!!!!

  3. Thanks for the links and replies. So just to be clear, there is a 703 crown (steel crimped over brass) with the short coronet? Is there a way to tell by the packaging to tell the difference? I am wanting to buy a new 703 crown for my 16520 but want the correct coronet. A lot of eBay sellers take pictures but you cannot see the coronet. I may just go with a 704 if I can find one just to be safe. Thanks again for the help and clarification!

  4. Thanks for the quick replies. The 704 is also a 7mm crown. The first picture I posted is of a 703 crown fitted with a 7030 tube. I believe the 702 looked similar but only fits on a 7020 tube (no outer o-ring). I don't believe the two are interchangeable. So, how can you tell if you have a 703 or a 704 if the coronets look the same? Also, how do you know you are getting the correct 703 if there are two different coronets? Is there a distinction in the packaging? Thanks again!!!

  5. Hi Guys,

    I was hoping that someone here could set me straight on Triplock crowns. Are there basically to types available right now (703 and 704)? I have bought three 24-703 crowns new in the package and they all look like the first picture I posted (taller coronet). This is the crown that I have used and seen on vintage watches. The second is the type of crown on my Sea-Dweller and used on the current watches I have seen. I have read that this is a 704 crown. I just got a R-20 from 2003 and it says that a 16520 should get a 24-703 crown and a 116520 should get a 704. When I look at them though, the coronet is the same (fatter). So, is there is 703 crown with a fatter coronet? I have bought a bunch of used crowns on eBay and they have all been the more modern type but I don't know exactly what version it is. The main reason I am asking is just to set me straight but to also make sure I get the correct crown for my 16520 build. Thanks for any clarification and I apologize in advance if this is confusing.

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  6. Thanks for the honest opinion. The subdial index markers weren't limes for fear of the subdial hands not clearing. I am also not really looking at doing anymore work on this one. I will leave it to the next person if I sell it or trade it. I know a new ETA movement runs $589 from Ofrei. Is there anything other than the movement useable on this or should it be valued around that? Thanks!!!

  7. Hi Guys,

    This is my first post on the Panerai forum. I spend most of my time over on the Rolex forum. I have a PAM 250 that I bought off of ioffer a couple of years ago and was wondering what the value would be. I am thinking of selling or trading it and am not sure what it is worth. I don't know which version it is....etc. I know that it has a Swiss ETA 7753 movement and everything works (chrono, date pusher, etc). I had the dial and hands lumed by Jack at IWW when I got it. The case has some marks near the screw heads for the bracelet and there is a mark on the inside of AR on the crystal. So, if you were to sell it or trade it, what would you value it as? Thanks in advance!!!!!

    (Please let me know if you need more pics or if they don't work)

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  8. Hi Guys,

    Didn't want to bring this thread back to the top, but I still can't find non-pierced lug Sub spring bars. The ones that I have seen are 1.8mm thick which is appropriate for Daytona's and Date Just's. The Sub and SD have 2mm spring bars. I have looked at all of the places I know and they only have the 1.8mm thick spring bars. Does anyone know of a source for 2mm thick 20mm spring bars for non-pierced lugs? I am about to place an order with Ofrei and would like to throw some in if I can. Thanks!!!!

  9. Thanks for all of the compliments!!!! Coming from guys, that means a lot. I doubt that this one will be up for sale, but I am a bit surprised at how much wrist presence this thing has :)

    @freddy333:

    The spring bars were poking out more than I have ever seen. It was so much that it could have easily snagged on something. The next time I have the bracelet off, I will put a new one on and snap a picture. I did smooth out the inside of the crown guards but probably erred on the side of caution. I did that the polishing wheel to them after working them, so the inside did get polished after all was done. The next time I change the tube out, I will maybe do a little more work.

    Thanks again to everyone for all of the compliments!!!!!!

  10. Well the day has finally come when I feel like I have something to share with the board. This project has been in the making for about six months. This board has been killing me because there have been so many great projects in that time. Most of the waiting has been for the funds to come in. Anyway, Here is my new GW 1665 from '79. The final piece of the puzzle came yesterday in the form of a Phong 1665 case. I had ordered a different case from another parts source but was not happy with the case. The deal breaker was that a genuine crystal would not fit the case (crystal seat was too small). Fortunately, this was not the case with this one. I did a little bit of case modification to the crown guards and edges of the case. After that, I started the assembly process. Once the case was assembled, I pressure tested it to 10 atm to see if it would leak. It had a leak around the HEV and I had to swap some of the gaskets for it. I tested it again and the leak was gone. The only "problems" I had were the spring bars. I don't know if this particular watch uses different spring bars from a 5513/1680, but they were sticking out past the lug holes. I filled the spring bars down and polished them back up and they seem to be fine now. I wonder if the lugs are too skinny, but it doesn't really bother me. The other thing that is a little bothersome is that the bezel spins a little too freely for me (even after bending the bezel washer). I don't think it bothers me as much as a genuine bezel and retaining ring would run though:) Anyway, I just wanted to show some pictures and get some feedback from you guys (good, bad, or ugly). Thanks for looking and for being such a great place to come.

    Genuine 1570 movement serviced by me

    Genuine luminova dial

    Genuine luminova hands

    Genuine luminova insert

    Genuine Tropic 39 crystal

    Genuine 703 crown and tube

    Genuine 585 end links

    Genuine 93150 bracelet

    Phone 1665 case with custom serial

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    I love how you can read the dial from the lume

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    Here she is next to my new BK/WM9 V2 Sub (gen crown, bezel and retaining ring, crystal, and insert)

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  11. Hi Guys,

    I know that spring bars have been talked about recently but I was wondering if anyone knew the appropriate spring bar size for a 16610. I know the Rolex part number is 23-44200, but cannot find a corresponding generic. Ofrei has a couple but I am not sure which is appropriate. I just a V2 WM9 and want to replace the spring bars on the bracelet. Thanks in advance!!!!!

  12. I think that I may have figured out what makes the Rolex movement stop after the first pull. Freddy was partly correct. The setting lever is different on the Rolex but I believe it is the yoke for sliding pinion that makes the difference. After looking at both movements, the Rolex yoke has a higher stopping point that restricts the setting lever from going any further. Now the question is whether you need both or just the yoke to make the change. Anyway, just thought I would share. Thanks for the help!!!!!!

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  13. Thanks Freddy! You may be right. I know that the setting levers look different. I was thinking that it was more like the setting lever spring though. I changed the setting lever spring on my ETA 2846 to make it a one pull instead of two. Usually the setting lever spring will have fewer cut outs (if that makes sense). From pictures, the Rolex and Zenith setting lever springs both look identical. Thanks again!!!!

  14. Hi Guys,

    I was wondering if the gen Zenith Daytona was able to pull the crown out twice or only once. I know there is no need to pull it out twice since there is no date function, but cannot see a difference in the setting lever spring. Does anyone know if it can or what part they changed to make it pull out only once? Thanks!!!!

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