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automatico

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Everything posted by automatico

  1. "I do not know how long you have had the parts in that case, but gen Rolex parts have been going pretty steadily up since I began collecting." "Are those holding 1030 movements? If so I get the first two." I hate to be the bearer of bad news but they are all reeplikkas. I have a similar box of tutones and another box of SS models...all DJ. I need to dig them out and take pics so you all will not think I'm kidding. Also a box or two of swiss ETA stuff, and a few boxes of assorted this and that. Almost all of it was taken in on payments on debts and it has been stacked up for years. I still have three watches with cal 1030 left...a 1956 tutone 6605 with swiss '56 marked tt bracelet, a 1959 steel 6605 with a like new swiss jubilee (probably 1970s), and an early 1960s gold top 6634 on a strap. The tutone has a refinished dial and pretty good case and bracelet, the steel 6605 and gold top 6605 both are in very good condition. I sent the tutone bracelet to Michael Young about 10 years back and he tightened it up a little. I never wear any of them (afraid one might throw a rod) and I'll try to dig them out someday and post a picture or two. My Empire of Dirt. Johnny Cash - Hurt (Official Music Video) - Bing video
  2. "Today's outrageous asking price for a Rolex <fill-in-the-blank> will seem like a bargain a year from now." I'll be ready if these ever go up in value...and the box is five rows across, Ha! ...and if they quit runnin' I'll 'patch 'em up (the 16oz hammer is out of sight). Can't remember what that is on the 'butcher block'.
  3. "The average price of a Rolex Daytona has increased 34% over the past year to reach nearly $48,000." $48K!!! It sure would be nice if I had kept mine... A new steel white dial Zenith Daytona in December 1992 from a rlx AD was $3685 out the door (list + shp). The next three (one white, two black) from October 1996 to May 1998 were $5120 (list + shp) otd. A new 16610 in August 1994 was $2065 otd...discounted a few $$. They were not very hot back then. A new white dial Explorer II in September 1994 was $1865 otd...discounted a few $$. They were dead in the water around here back then. A new leftover AK was $990 otd. All included shipping out of state to dodge sales tax. I paid $3515 in November 1999 to a watch trader for a like new tutone Zenith Daytona w/bp. All gone...
  4. "I personally said forget it, and turned my interests toward used/vintage pieces." Me too...over 20 years ago. Last new rolex I bought from an AD was in May 1998, Bought a few new/like new presentation AKs at bargain prices from the owners since then but that's it for modern rolex. "Here are a couple that are guaranteed to go to stupid prices within a few years. The interest is starting to stir and they're cheap now." Bulova Devil Diver. Zodiac Sea Wolf. I sold way too many of my 'valuable' watches too soon but that's life. I did save a lot of 1960s through 1970s watches though and probably still have 8 or 10 assorted Bulova '666' divers that I put away because when I bought them they were going for $40 to $100 and no one wanted them. Have a few Caravelle '333' and '666' too...the Cv '666' are automatics and the '333' are hand crankers. All are mechanical except one '666' Accutron in very good condition that I got for $0 but it needs a movement. Still have 12 or 14 Bulova 333ft half devil dress Oceanographers (no rotating bezel), all tutone except two. They all have solid 10K gold bezels (even the SS models) and are slow set with reliable 11BLACD movements and they 'look like a rolex'. They are going for $300 or so now. They will not make me rich but they will buy a Big Mac or two. I have owned a LOT of Bulova watches, more than anything else...there are 365 entries in the 'B' section of my inventory, almost all Bulovas with a few Benrus, Breitling, and one Blancpain (one was enough!) etc. Many Bulovas are gone but quite a few remain. 'blanc pain' = white bread in English. Ha! Kept about a half dozen Zodiac Sea Wolf watches, both date and no date models including one with the disco dial...orange/black with white acrylic insert. Got them real cheap and some were free. They have A. Schild movements and parts are easy to get but the snap on case backs are a royal pain to get off and on. This one is $3595 on eBay! OBO. Mine was free. Before the wu-flu hit, a group of watch traders met every weekend for 30+ years and I would guess a few thousand watches passed over the trading table in that time and I snagged my share, some I'll never forget...bought a real nice gold cap rolex 1550 oys perp date in 1996 for $150...THO no bracelet. I still have the OPD...sold it in 2002 and the guy traded it in on something else. THO = time head only. The guy I bought it from walked up to the trading table and asked if anyone knew anything about rolex watches. I said: "I can tell if it is running or not." He handed it to me and asked if I wanted to buy it. I said: "I'll give you $100 for it." I was kidding. He said: "$200," I said "$150." He said: "Hand it over." Bought a like new manual wind 18KYG Patek 'Golden Ellipse' on the original woven mesh bracelet for scrap in the summer of 1998 and no one wanted to buy it so I traded it even for a nib rolex 16233 with a factory diamond dial a few months later. There were deals like this every week. Not now though. We stopped showing up not long after Christmas 2019...thanks to the wu-flu. Still see a few traders now and then. I bought an Illinois 21 jewel Abe Lincoln 16 size RR grade lever set pocket watch (made 1918) with a pristine dial/hands for $10 a while back in an undesirable oversize 'swing out' case from one of them. A PW mechanic friend c/o/MS the mvt and put it in a nos Star Watch Case Co. nickel case...no charge. It is running on my work bench now and loses 4 or 5 sec/day...the RR mech PW standard is +/- 15 sec per day. Not too shabby for $10. BTW...that Roamer chrono is super nice! I have a Seth Thomas 'Stingray' dive watch made by Roamer in my 'collection' somewhere, the case shape is the same as the chrono. I got it in 1993, sold it in 1999, and got it back in 2009. It still has the original signed bracelet, crystal etc. Some ST Stingray pictures... Seth Thomas Stingray Case Restoration – TM Watch (tmwatchco.com)
  5. "Keep up the good work mate!" "Well done, automatico." Thank You! The watch is still running fine and I am wearing it now. 10-19-2021 Facts and figures... I measured the 'shortcut' case and compared it to my J$W com case from 10 or 12 years ago: Cartel case: Total thickness 14.75mm. Mid case thickness measured at 9 o'clock: 4.8mm. Bezel OD: 37.4mm. Case width across 8 to 2: 39.3mm. Case back OD: 35.55mm. Has 383xxxx (approx 1974/75) fair serial number etc, laser etched. Case made for Miyota clone GMT, ETA 2836 with GMT mod, or rolex 1565/1575 GMT. Needs case spacer with Miyota clone or ETA 2836 'GMT', not with rolex 15xx. Very good fit. Cartel dial is a little bit larger OD than oem. An oem size dial is a hair too small for the dial opening. J$W com case: Total thickness: 13.9mm. Mid case thickness measured at 9 o'clock: 5.2mm. Bezel OD: 37.35mm. Case width across 8 to 2: 38.3mm. Case back OD: 35.9mm. Has 342xxxx (approx 1973) serial number, very good letters/numbers. Case made for rolex 1565/1575 GMT. No spacer needed. Very good fit. Accepts original dial. There could be a mistake or two in the measurements, hope not.
  6. I have seen 'cloudy' spots inside MG crystals but not sapphire. It may be like Freddy said and the blemish can be removed. If not, here is some info on crystals: You need to know if the crystal is mineral glass (MG) or sapphire because it takes different equipment to cut a sapphire crystal. Regular MG crystals can be cut without much expensive equipment but sapphire is another story. You could also have an MG crystal cut to save $$ if the original is sapphire. Square, rectangular or any shape other than round crystals are generally referred to as 'fancy crystals' or 'shaped crystals' and back when many watches were snap back non water resistant types, most retail repair shops had a crystal grinder and could cut a glass/MG crystal to size. Newer watches with fancy/shaped crystals will have them either cemented to the case or pressed into a plastic gasket and you can get by with very small irregularities with a cemented crystal but a crystal fitted into a gasket has to be exactly like the original. Some supply houses have crystal cutters made using the pantograph tracing method and they can duplicate a MG crystal to perfection. You need to send them the original unbroken crystal and/or the case for a pattern. I have cut a lot of 'fancy/shaped' MG crystals and will say the ones with straight sides and 90 degree corners are not too hard to do but if the crystal has rounded corners or is a shape other than square or rectangle it is much harder to cut to a good fit. Sometimes I can cement the original crystal to a piece of MG and cut a crystal that will be very close by carefully cutting the excess away...most of the time. I use superglue to stick the crystals together and soak them in acetone to release the original crystal when done. My crystal cutter has a fine grit stone mounted flat like on a record player with a water tank that drips water on the stone to keep it wet and prevent glass dust build up. It turns at a few hundred rpm and has a small flat area at the front for a hand rest. You can also use a small diameter fine grit diamond disc in a battery powered Dremel tool to 'final shape' MG crystals using Windex etc glass cleaner to keep the disc wet. It works Ok but is slow going and takes a lot of practice. I never tried it on a sapphire crystal although it might work. A larger diameter diamond wheel mounted on a machine similar to a stone wheel crystal grinder would probably be good too. I do not take in any outside work, I have enough of my own. The only outside work I do is for friends/family who bought a watch from me. Them: "The watch you sold me quit running." Me: "Did you drop it on carpet or concrete?" Them: "Uh, uh..." Me: "Gotcha!"
  7. Fine looking watches! Never had a manual wind Daytona, missed one in the mid 1990s for about $1500. Same guy had a steel V72 Wittnauer 'Professional', I snagged it. When you snooze, you lose. Had quite a few V72 in other brands and they are all gone except for one nos mainspring in my parts stash. All I have now is some swisseta 7750/7753 powered stuff...Hamilton Khaki, Victorinox Air Boss, and a 7750 Invicta diver about the size of a 5 pound barbell weight. "In my experience, a well-crafted franken, where all of the user-accessible components are gen, will have the same feel as the gen." I agree. My rolex powered Frankensteins are not much different from genuine except for the case, dial, hands, and bracelet being replicas. The 'feel' of the watch is the same...and the cases are not beat up/rotted out like many true vintages. As far as that goes...a replacement '444' case from rolex service is not original either so a J$W com, Ruby, Yuki etc case is just as good for every day wear and a hell-of-a-lot cheaper. Imho. Matter of fact, you could probably take a J$W com case with a 444 serial number, correct case back stamping, genuine dial, crown etc and never get called out if it was opened up. Probably/maybe. 'Case' in point...I have a DW '1680' case with a rolex 1570, original date wheel, white Lemrich dial, genuine crown etc and a few 'quasi-experts' have closely eyeballed it and the only thing they said jumped out at them was the bezel insert was not genuine. About half of them wanted to buy it. Rolex 1680 Submariner Fantastic Lemrich Dial Circa 1977 - Rolex Passion Market
  8. This is an old post but I wanted to warn anyone thinking about buying a Tissy Powermatic. Alligoat hit the bull's eye when he said "Good luck!" I thought about going the opposite route...put a quartz movement in an Omega SM with a Miyota clone in it. The case, dial, and bracelet are fine but the clone movement is not much good. Never got around to it. "ETA has also modified the 2824-2 and come out with a series of new movements that are detuned so to speak and run at 21.6K with a longer power reserve. Maybe CO811 or something like that- Tissot uses them and they're referred to as Powermatic." Afaik the Powermatic is available only in watches made by Swatch and may not be for sale separately (??). Besides that, I would beware of the 'Powermatic' movement because it is supposedly not to be repaired/serviced by anyone except ETA 'Factory Service Centers' if it breaks or gains/loses time. Imho it is was made for a longer running reserve and low cost. It reminds me of the movements used in Swatch automatics, they ran fine...for a while. From Caliber Corner... The Powermatic 80 is not equipped with an ETAChron or other type of regulating system. Similar to the Sistem51, the Powermatic 80 laser regulated at the factory. This is what Tissot refers to as their “High-Tech” escapement. This doesn’t necessarily mean that the movement is impossible to adjust or service, but good luck finding parts or a watchmaker who will want to work on it. This is something for hardcore mechanical watch lovers to take into consideration before spending $1,000+ on a two-tone Tissot Luxury. Tissot Caliber Powermatic 80 Watch Movement | Caliber Corner The eta F06.111 3 jewel movement is in reality a 'handsome cheapie' as it has some 100% plastic train wheels/pivots and they put jewels on the plastic pivots to make them appear to be expensive when used in higher $$ watches. Imho the F06 series is not too hot compared to the tried and true 7 jewel, metal plate/wheel train ETA 955.xxx series of quartz movements. ETA also makes a bottom feeder movement that is used in place of the 955.xxx and F06.111 in many applications...the 805.xxx and you might see one in lower priced watches. ETA 2824 info... ETA Caliber 2824-2 Watch Movement | Caliber Corner
  9. Is the date quickset? If it is maybe the day of the week is not QS and the watch must be stopped and restarted on the correct day. I have a few vintage day and date watches made this way, not any of them being Universal Geneve though. Something else...does it have more than one language on the day disc? You may need to see the day changing to tell but I have no idea how to adjust it to the desired language if it has two. Note: It is not a good idea to run the hands around and around to set the day or date because it can result in wear to the 'canon pinion' which is basically a slip clutch so time can be set without damage to the watch works. If you could find out what caliber (calibre) the movement is, you should be able to find information about it on the internet. To find the caliber number you will need to find a similar watch on the internet and see if the movement specs are listed. A similar watch may not need to be solid gold, it can be 'gold cap/gold top' or stainless steel. 'Gold cap/gold top' = a layer of gold is pressed and soldered onto the case top. Do not let just anyone open the watch up to see what caliber it has if you can not find the info on the internet because 18K gold is soft and prone to damage. In my experience, many so called 'watchmakers' cause as much damage to watches as the owners/careless owners. Btw...I had a similar nos 'gold top' Universal Geneve in 1996 but it was quickly sold without looking in it and I can not remember if it was quick set or not. I have the serial number but not the caliber, probably number 72. Collectors Note: Matching Polerouter dials with movement calibers | The Polerouter Reference Website (universalgenevepolerouter.com)
  10. I dug through my accumulation of riff raff and found three A7750 Daytonas, two seconds at six and one with seconds at nine. Here are the case thicknesses and bezel outer diameter measurements. All the bezels are solid steel. Sec @ 9 14.4mm thick with 39.5mm bezel. Sec @ 6 13.7mm thick with 39.0mm bezel. Sec @ 6 14.4mm thick with 39.5mm bezel. All are 'nos' from about 10 years ago and they started running when I shook them a little. Wonders never cease. A 39.0mm bezel might look Ok as .5mm is hard to spot on something that big in diameter. Also measured a sec @ 6 model with a Miyota clone of some sort and it is 13.7 thick with 39.0mm bezel same as one of the A750 sec @ 6 models...probably the same case. All below is afaik... The 116520 and 16520 are both 12.2mm thick. 116520: Diameter: 40mm Crystal: 30.5mm Bracelet: 20mm 16520 and 116520: Bezel outside diameter: 38.5mm Bezel inside diameter: 30.5mm Steel 116520 bezel thickness: 2.4mm. Do not know about 16520, might be the same. Some good pictures: THE FIRST SERIES ROLEX DAYTONA 1652X : AN IN DEPTH ANALYSIS OF “200 UPH” BEZELS – VWCltd
  11. I had a friend who used to be in the rep biz and his first 'contact guy' supposedly got KIA in a car accident and the next guy who took it over told him that 'getting killed in a car accident' was the standard excuse when they sell out to another guy or move back to China. He had this happen two or three times in 10 years and all of his contacts were in NYC. The last guy got busted with a few $mil of stock, bailed himself out, and took off back to China. 'A few $mil of stock' = retail price of similar genuine items, not replicas. The guv'mnt does this to make it seem like they made a big bust.
  12. Rule 1: The buyer sets the price. Three exceptions that quickly come to mind are food, medicine, and gasoline. You gotta eat, get check ups, and drive to the strip joint store. Yeah I know they make electric cars but I don't have a cord long enough to get to the Starlight Club. Imho...higher end watches exist and are expensive only because people will pay the price. With watches, cars, jewelry etc, serious buyers set the price. Otoh, it will be 'worth' much less than current market prices to an uninterested party so they will not buy one. No matter what, I seriously doubt a new Timex will ever sell for $20,000.00 or a new rolex submariner will be $1199.00 at Costco because of the manufacturing cost differences and perception of their 'worth'. With high end watches...you pay your money and you usually get screwed make your choice. Btw...if you all could see my pile of watches you could tell I have made some really bad choices. Ha!
  13. "I think 1 of the best bargains in vintage watches is the original HUMMER, the Bulova Accutron (Spaceview). These can be found for under $1,000." Totally agree, the 214 'Spaceview' is THE Accutron. The 218 line is fine too but not as cool. They made a 'skeleton' 218 but they were just not the same. No pizzazz. FYI...the 14K and 18K Accutrons have a lot of gold in their cases compared to most other brands. Many of their vintage mechanicals were pretty heavy too. I have a pair of 1950s 'Beau Brummel' automatics that are heavier than the average watch of the same era...one white gold, one yellow gold. Beau Brummel = diamonds on the dial. "the bulova moonwatch (in SS bracelet) is IMHO an example of this, (still I am on the hunt, I know I am late)" Glad to say I have one from 1964 in original condition with the factory issue Bulova signed Kreisler 'coffin' bracelet. A friend gave it to me and it is in 85 to 90% condition with just a little bit of corrosion on the H and M hands from the lume. Kreisler bracelet prices have gone crazy too, eBay item number 183760670497 Here is one of the best Bulova Accutron mechanics in the business... The ONLY Recommended site. Accutron Repair and Spaceview Repair (mybob.net)
  14. 'High end quartz'... I thought maybe the (now discontinued) Bulova Accutron II was pretty good with its excellent accuracy and smooth sweeping second hand but in my experience they may have a flaw that is becoming more common; Defective hour wheels. None of mine have had a problem yet but a few weeks ago two came in for this problem. I turned them down as I do not want the hassle of hunting parts or working on one. Besides that, one was a chronograph and I stay away from working on chronographs if I can, mech or quartz. I also read about a few watches having the same problem on a watch forum somewhere but can not find it now. Bulova is supposedly easy to deal with and I may find out if one of mine breaks but for now I am Ok. I do think maybe a plastic hour wheel is not a good idea on a mid or higher grade watch. Some lower grade $7 or $10 quartz movements have them but they do not seem to cause much trouble. Have 2 quartz Ebel 1911 and one will not run and it has a Cartier made movement of some sort...cal 87 in mine. The other one is Ok or it was when I parked it 4 or 5 years ago. Imho they would have been better if they had ETA movements but now some of the ETA quartz movements are over $200. Also have a couple Ebel 'Sport Wave' watches and they both stopped and the replacement ETA movements were about $160 ten+ years ago. Since they are two hands and no date I substituted an ETA 256.031/2 ($60+/-) in one and it was still running 10 or 12 years later with 3 or 4 new batts but I put it up somewhere and can not find it...I do that a lot. All in all I like quartz watches just fine but even they are getting to be pricey to repair except for a few brands, TAG/Heuer for example that use common ETAs.
  15. "Considering the shared "imperfections" both inside & outside the case, it appears to be the same franken watch." Yep, the case looks the same. The part about swapped movements is a head scratcher though. "Solid endlinks??? For this kind of money you’d think it would come with a nice band." Yeah, that's a kick in the golf ball bag...a million dollar watch with the wrong bracelet. Maybe they are hoping the guy who buys it won't notice. If I had a million bucks to blow...I would buy one of the Bulova 214 Accutrons that Citizen reissued not long after they bought Bulova...and a red Dodge HEMI Challenger. The rest would be invested in a few acres of land. NOT a Fronkensteen Con-0-Groff. Igor: Dr. Frankenstein... Dr. Frederick Frankenstein: "Fronkensteen." Igor: "You're putting me on." Dr. Frederick Frankenstein: No, it's pronounced "Fronkensteen." Igor: "Do you also say "Froaderick"? Dr. Frederick Fankenstein: "No..."Frederick." Igor: Well, why isn't it "Froaderick Fronkensteen"? Dr. Frederick Frankenstein: "It isn't; it's "Frederick Fronkensteen." Igor: "I see." Dr. Frederick Frankenstein: "You must be Igor." [He pronounces it ee-gor] Igor: "No, it's pronounced "eye-gor." Dr. Frederick Frankenstein: "But they told me it was "ee-gor." Igor: "Well, they were wrong then, weren't they?" From 'Young Frankenstein' 1974. Young Frankenstein (1974) - Marty Feldman as Igor - IMDb
  16. Looks like another high $$ Frankenstein has arrived on the scene... Franken/Fake Oyster “Sotto” Daytona (RCO) At Christie’s Hong Kong – Vintage Panerai and other iconic timepieces under the loupe at Perezcope https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/no-time-present/rolex-rco-mark-ii-dial-original-certificate-rarest-paul-newman-10/129343?ldp_breadcrumb=back
  17. "I am not a Rolex box expert, but the box in your pictures looks legit to me." I agree. The various replica boxes I have seen were not very well made compared to this one. Otoh one of the best replica boxes I have seen was a round gray TAG/Heuer box. 4K Review: Rolex Deepsea D-Blue "James Cameron" 126660 Unboxing - Bing video
  18. Case Tubes: 5300, 5310, 6020...$10 5330...$14 7000, 7020...$17.50 7030...$22.50 Crowns: 300-8, 300-9, 530-0, 600-0, 603-0...$20 530-8600-8, 603-8, 700-0, 702-0, 703-0...$35 702-8, 703-8...$75 Crown P/N ending In 8 = Yellow Gold Movement Parts For Most Calibres: Balance Complete...$160 Balance Staff...(pkg of 3) $18.00 MS Barrel With Arbor...$20 Center Wheel with Canon Pinion...$25 Clutch Wheel...$8 Great Wheel...$15 Mainspring...$11 Pallet Fork...$32.50 Ratchet Wheel...$12.50 Reversing Wheel Mounted...$25.00 (Mounted = complete assembly) Rotor...$60 Rotor Axle...$8 Set Lever...$12 Winding Pinion...$6.50 Stems...(pkg of 3) $13.50 Screws...(pkg of 3) $15 Screw Set For Complete Movement...$25 Casing Parts: Tropic Crystals...$15.50 Cyclop Crystals...$17.50 Sapphire, Ladies...$90 Sapphire Mid Size...$100 Sapphire Gent's...$110 Crystal Gasket...$6.50 Flat Case Gaskets...(pkg of 3) $12 Round Case Gaskets...(pkg of 3) $16.50 Case Tube Gaskets...(pkg of 3) $9 Bezel Inserts...$30 All prices in USD plus delivery charges. Typos are free.
  19. "...a domed crystal might work then?" My 'Short story' was only telling about the mess I got into when swapping movements around. It has nothing to do with your project, it was an example of what can go wrong. The domed acrylic crystal was mentioned when telling why the 3035 would not work in a 16200 case. Each movement swap will present a unique set of problems when the movements are different thicknesses. Some can be easily solved, some can not. My problems were basically solved on this project but it was not worth the trouble imho. mymanmatt makes a good point. Before you start on the project, find out all you can about what is involved.
  20. "...open a datejust case to fit a day date movement..." "...what work needs to be done for this mod..." Almost always...the same base movement is used for date and day-date movements of the same brand and basic design (caliber) so any modifying done to a date case to accept a day-date movement is usually done above the stem centerline. Q...Like what? A1...Machining the dial seat deeper into the case to accommodate the thicker movement because of the added D-D works. A2...You may also need to machine the dial seat to a larger OD if the D-D dial is bigger in diameter than the date dial...ETA 2834-2 with date at 3 and day at 12 compared to 2836-2 with D and D both at 3 for example. Same basic movement but the 2834-2 has a spacer on the outside of the movement to accommodate the larger in OD day of the week disc. ETA 2836-2 diameter overall = 26.0mm, 5.1mm thick. ETA 2834-2 diameter overall = 29.4mm, 5.25mm thick. The 3.4mm larger overall diameter movement usually results in larger dials. If you attempt to install a D-D movement into a case made for a date movement, the stem may be in a bind and if there is a groove machined in the case for case clamps/screws the groove may not be in the correct location for D-D movement clamps/screws. It basically depends on how thick the movement is above the stem centerline with D-D works compared to the movement with date works. Sometimes the dial opening ID as seen from the front of the case must be enlarged to allow for a larger D-D dial so there are no shrouded markers etc. This is where trouble can arise if the reflector area (aka rehaut) is not wide enough to allow for machining to a larger ID. All the above is fairly easy to do but the work must be precise and the case must be suitable for the modifications. As long as there is adequate material in the case to perform the modification, it is not overly difficult IF you have a lathe, some experience, and a steady hand. Big IF. Short story: In 1995 or 1996 I had a few 'like new' rolex 162xx cases so I machined the dial seat deeper into one so I could put a cal 3035 in it and have a sapphire crystal. It did not turn out as planned. 1...The sweep second hand rubbed the sapphire crystal because the flat crystal had no 'dome' like the acrylic 135 crystal on 16xxx DJ cases. 2...Shortened the sweep second hand tube to lower the hand and it cleared the crystal but rubbed the minute hand. 3...Lowered the minute hand and it rubbed the markers and was too close to the hour hand. Etc, etc. Result = Basically a no go. The fix? Put a white 'Buckley' dial in it with printed Roman numerals, no applied markers. It was Ok but it all ended up going back to the original case and dial later so I could sell it as a 'correct' watch. All 36mm case DJ 16xx, 16xxx and 162xx dials are 27.9mm in diameter. Never tried a 'pie pan' type dial in a 16xxx or 162xx case. The 'pie pan' shape may raise the movement in the case and cause stem alignment problems etc. Still have the empty 162xx case. Q...What will fit in the empty case? A1...Rlx cal 3035 using a dial without applied markers as stated above. A2...Rlx cal 1575 date with flat 27mm dial. A3...Genuine rlx 3135. Boooo on that. Too many movement and parts hassles. A4...Something with an ETA 2836-2...a 2824-2 is too thin for this modified case but they will usually work in a 162xx oem spec case. Maybe could make it into an ETA 2836-2 powered DJ with genuine dial etc. Very reliable with no parts/service hassles. alligoat: I remember the D-D project. It turned out very good. What happened to it? "You'd have to find a DJ 16000 case and those are hard to find these days at a fair price." Yeah, about $300 or $400 and many are badly corroded around the case/case back thread area. In my experience the aftmkt DJ cases are hit of miss. Mostly miss. Also hard to find one with lug holes now. It's insanity. ? to coming world this is What
  21. "If you put them all together I think you'd have a half-decent Hubble space telescope." Chocolate coated space telescope maybe. Ha!
  22. The reading glasses story... As I have said in previous posts, I was a silent partner in a wholesale/retail watch store for a few years and we also bought/sold things other than watches. Remote control helicopters for example (another story). We had contacts with wholesalers/liquidators all over the country and one guy had a huge lot of sunglasses and reading glasses (Foster Grant and InSight brands) so we bought 25,000 readers and they sold out in a few weeks. Since the first order went pretty fast we bought another batch. They did not go so fast and we had some left after 6 months or more so I picked out 200 pairs to peddle around here to 'friends and relatives' along with 500 'Realtree' style elastic watch retainer straps (another story). Just now looked in the garage and I still have about 100 reading glasses but did not count the retainer straps because they were not handy, my guess is about 300, maybe more. We bought a few thousand sunglasses too but they sold out in a hurry. All I have left in sunglasses is two pair camo style (one broken) and one Panama Jack on a ceramic pig decorated like a cop. Then there is the story about buying about 500 pounds of 'chocolate coated caramel candy' at a bargain price...in February or March iirc (I have posted this before). The guy we got it from left out that it was all Santa Claus bars. Although it was still good until the end of the year we could not sell Santa Claus bars in March and April. Besides that, we could not sell them to flea market dealers or set up in a F Mkt ourselves to sell it because it would melt as soon as the sun hit it. I ate a LOT of chocolate covered Santas that year. My 'partner in crime' is now in the wholesale/retail food business. More stories of course...I bought about 200 Ghirardelli chocolate coated caramel (!!) candy bars a while back for $10. Pretty good deal but I discovered my craving for chocolate covered caramel candy had completely gone away.
  23. Decisions, decisions... First...determine if the plating is actually gold (not as easy as it sounds). Second...if it is gold, decide how you want to have the plating removed...buffed off or reverse plated and buffed. The case will also need to be carefully polished after the plating is removed or it will look bad if it is worn or scratched very much at all. If the scratches are not removed it will just look like a shiny, scratched, goldtone case. You can plate over the gold plating but any imperfections will more than likely show more than they do now. Removing real gold plating: Years ago when actual gold was used to plate watch cases etc you could 'reverse plate' the item to remove most of the gold plating from the part, polish the remaining plating off, and re-plate it...time consuming and relatively expensive unless you can do it yourself. I have done this a few times, the last time was about 15 years ago when the yellow gold plating was removed from a square 14K white gold gent's Lucien Piccard watch. (LP made some fine gold watches back in their heyday) The LP watch had factory set diamonds in the corners of the case and it was a real hassle to get all the YG plating off around the diamonds, much like a fluted bezel might be if the plating did not come off to start with. FYI...when you remove the gold plating from a gold case, you are also removing gold from the case itself at the same rate anywhere the plating has already been removed...on flat surfaces for example. Plating usually comes off of flat surfaces first compared to where diamonds have been set into the case etc. Q...Why yellow gold plate a white gold case? A...Back in the 1960s/70s/80s, many jewelers would yellow gold plate over white gold watches to make a sale when the customer said: "I want a watch like the one in the showcase but yellow gold instead of white gold." (mostly lady models) The jeweler would then say: "I'll have one express delivered and you can pick it up in two days." After the customer leaves, the jeweler goes into the back room to take the watch apart and plate the case. After all, the watch case is still solid gold, just not the same color as the original base color so as long as the plating does not wear off they could get away with it. Otoh... The main problem today is many/most low cost goldtone watch cases/bracelets are not gold plated at all but goldtone ion plated (or some similar process) that uses no gold at all. The ion plating is much harder to remove and expensive to reapply so it would probably be cheaper to buy another case. If you opt for another case, make sure it will accept your dial/movement and can use the same movement mounting method...spacer, clamps/screws or plastic spacer etc. Cases made for clamps/screws must have a groove cut in the case for them or a groove cut by a 'friendly hobbyist/machinist'. A 'Big Time' machinist will just laugh and snort at the request or price it very high. (this is from experience) Also make sure the case is contoured between the lugs to fit your bracelet end pieces...round end or partially hooded. Etc, etc. Ion Plating Method in the jewelry field - Jewelry Knowledge (maasjewelry.com) Off topic... Here is a square LP like mine in yellow gold without the diamonds: Also have a 'like new' round 14K LP 'Seashark Automatique' similar to this one: They called them 'Deep Water' but they must have been kidding.
  24. "I may have *cough* gone a bit overboard ordering those beauties." You are not going OB. Buying two 25,000 piece lots of reading glasses is going OB.
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