chiman12

It is the whole case set...case, bracelet, dial, hands, crown... Compared to an aftermarket like Yuki that charges about the same price for just the case...sean is pretty reasonable IMO...

More pics...unlike the WM9...the crown, when screwed down, doesn't even come close to touching the bezel...

Geez L...that dial really looks nice now that it is all cased up!!!

Aye chihuahua...she is beautiful!!!

@ jasf2002...to further clarify, the noob dial is too big and the WM9 fits (yes...I currently have both in my parts box). But that being said, the dial that is provided with this case set look pretty good to me. But like every good franken, you would probably want to source a gen dial anyway and a gen insert of course. btw highoe...you get second prize for almost nailing the dealer down!

BINGO! Yup sean. The rehaut nice an straight, definitely not wokky, case back is fine its the effect of the pics and I'm just a crappy photographer. IMO, the closest I've seen to a gen and this includes a WM9 (yes...I've owned 2) comes with the complete case set (case/dial/bracelet/crown)...so...the price he is asking is reasonable to me compared to a owning a WM9. The sub actually has a gen crown on it. I some how lost the original one when I was unpacking the case I don't know if there are different generations of the Yachtmaster bezel, but based on gen pics, Sean's bezel is also closer to gen than WM9 Sorry WM9 guys, but I think that these cases are more accurate in many ways. Once I get the other parts and put it all together, I'll do another photo shoot.

More pics... Bezel assembly...gen like...yes/no??? Inside of the case... Guys, I'm just waiting a response from the dealer if I'm okay to release his name. I'm not being a pr*ck...honestly...he is not a trusted dealer...but I've never had a problem with him!

I recently decided to try a dealer that I've used in the past. I asked him to source me a good sub and yachmaster case set for projects of mine. Here are the case sets that I received, the other parts are incoming... Yachmaster...imo...maybe more accurate than WM9..but then again I'm not a Yactmaster expert and basing it on gen pics Submariner 16610...rehaut nice and straight...no stir fry going on here! Needless to say that I'm very impressed with the cases and can't wait to receive the bracelets, dial, and hand set. The kicker...these cases fit gen movements, just like a WM9 I think I'll be going back to him very often now...don't know why I stopped in the first place! What are you thoughts everyone?

Hey W...slowly coming to the dark side are we??? The Angus case set is a little too thick to make it into a 5514, it uses the 1665 case. You would have to really slim down the lugs to make it look proper. Your best bet for a 5514 is to find an old thin case cartel 1665 and go from there, but then you'll have dial issues in that a gen-spec dial might not fit (maybe too small). GL on your Rolex adventure!!!

I like it N...a mod that is also a refreshment!

A gen-spec dial will fit perfectly in the 1:1 1655 Josh case, here is mine with an NDT dial and small GMT hand modified to fit a 2836...

I like the end result!!! She's a beaut! Great job C!

If I can ever afford one...

sweet and congrats...FINALLY!!!

Joey...did you take off the hands and did the movement run again and are you using an aftermarket dial? I found on many occasions that the post hole in the aftermarket dials are too small and the ETA GMT that is used would rub or catch on the sides of the aftermarket dial, causing the movement to stop. So I just broached the post hole on the dial a little wider, until the ETA GMT hand has enough clearance and not to rub against the edge of the post hole on the dial side.

Joey...sorry to hear about the problems you are having...but with minor mods, the 2836 GMT actually runs really well, thus I can't see the reason to go to a $300 movement. Unfortunately I have never used a 2893 in my builds so I am no help here...sorry C! But Joey might have the answer for you.

I here you J...I here you...my dog knows quite a few of them!!!!

CRAP! I'm always the follower and never the leader! Joey B...I like your idea and for my 6542 project, I'll try to solder the two post hole plates together with low temp solder paste...

Thanks guys! The hour hand is a CousinsUK Tudor hand...

I have received a few PM's on how I built my 1675 here. Most often, members ask if using the Zodiac 75B is the best movement to use and what "trial & tribulations" did I go through to realize the final product. I still believe that a Zodiac 75B is the best way to go, as it accepts a gen-spec GMT wiith minor broaching, in addition ETA hour, minute and second hands can be used and the date wheekl spins the same way as a 1575. The downfall of the movement is that it is a vintage movement and is very difficult to find, which means that parts are hard to find. There are other more practical movements to use, such as an ETA 2893-2 or asian GMT movements. These movements do work well, but since the modified 2836-2 GMT movements are so readily available, I decided to tear my 1675 apart and experiment and see if I can install a small GMT onto a 2836. Here is a shot of the 2836 that I will be using Now take into consideration, a gen-spec GMT hand post hole is too small to fit onto the GMT driving wheel of the 2836. The hand cannot be broach to increase the post hole diameter as this would remove the sides of the post and there would not be enough friction between the hand and the driving wheel to spin the hand. So...creativity came into play. First off I located a spare ETA GMT hand in my parts box. I then proceed to broach the gen-spec hand until the post hole was the same size as the post hole on the ETA GMT hand, then I used fine sandpaper to remove and burrs. If you don't have broaches to widen the post hole, a needle file can be used. But file with caution and take your time, for the hand can easily snap off if too much torque is applied while enlarging the post hole. The next step is to take the ETA GMT hand snip off the hand; as close to the post hole plate (for a lack of a better term!) as possible. Next, get some 600 or finer sand paper and lightly sand down the TOP of the ETA GMT post hole plate. Try to make it as thin a possible, but don't be over zealous. The reason to make it as thin as possible is to ensure that the overall height of the hand does not increase severely, because the installation of the hour/minute, and second will be difficult. Next get your 200 watch screw driver and thread your gen-spec hand (bottom facing up) on the blade. Take some glue and apply it to the top of the freshly sanded ETA post hole plate and apply it to the gen-spec hand. The reason that the 200 screw driver is used, is that it is the same diameter as the post hole of the gen-spec hand. The screw driver acts as a guide to center the ETA plate with the gen-spec hand. The set up should now look something like this... A pic of a franken GMT hand!! Lets try installing it... Now install the rest of the hands, see if everything still works...always check the quick set date and GMT function, to make sure that the GMT driving wheel is still aligned... Proof that it is still the 2836 beating in the heart of my 1675 Cornino... Parting shots of the complete project...noticed that I refinished my GMT dial!!! So, will the glue hold the ETA GMT plate and the gen-spec hand together? Yes...since no real force is applied to the joint, there is no reason why the two should delaminiate. My trial run of wearing it for a week will determine if my theory is correct or not!!! I guess you can always solder the two together when they are threaded on the screw driver, but the proper super glue should hold everything together. SO....6542...COME ON DOWN!!!!!

I think the problems with the modifiied GMT 2836 movements stem from the driving wheel for the GMT hand. It looks like one piece, but is actually 2 seperate gears (upper and lower) and they are only friction fitted together. With time and if you play with the GMT function a lot, these gears will start to slip and the GMT hand won't track properly. What you can do is then use a glue to hold the two gears together.

I like Josh and he will continue to be my choice of dealer, but his comment is just not working for me. I bought one just to see if I can mod it...definitely not going to wear it "as is"

The best way to tell if it takes a gen dial is to take it apart and measure the rehaut opening

HOLY CRAP!!!

Natalie's Passion...basically NDT. M...she's a stunner and definitely a keeper!