JoeyB

It's the same case from Rafflestime. It will take a 28.3mm dial, but the maximum is a 29mm. I made my own from sheet brass and 29mm is a flush fit.

It's not a question of if it's a rep or not, or how sensitive the setting is on the machine. It's a metal detector that is supposed to alarm when it detects metal worn on the body going through the arch. If it detects a medal and chain but not the watch, something else is the reason. If the security people know a gen Rolex will go through undetected, our reps going through is a nice bonus.

No need, and don't you dare apologize. We were having fun and it was meant and taken just that way. I think I know you well enough to say that I know when you are teasing. I love to do that too. Besides, he's a 'new' Man. I outlined last weekend for his homecoming, and told him that last Sunday we'd do the whole family thing at Grandma's, he'd get to show off a bit (and me show off a lot!). Then I told him that bright and early on Monday morning the party is "Ovah!!", you're on your own, get your 6 out and get a job!! It's what men do...

I have no clue how the metal detectors work, except that they can increase and decrease sensitivity. The guard told me that Stainless Rolex watches will go through undetected, but the gold Rolex will not. I know that the sterling silver religious medal and chain I wear sets the machine off when the watch doesn't.

Yep, just the way I got it. I had planned to change the color of the engraving and get a gen crystal for that 'black hole' but never got around to it.

Yep, and he did. He's a really fine man now. But he does love freddy's Daytona!

I thought you might have a spare Daytona lying around. He'd like a BMW too, in case you got one of those.

I got it back. He's a scientist now. He wants a Daytona. Like freddy's.

I've related the story before, I was wearing my 16710 'Retro' from Joshua a few years ago and went to court and the guard told me to come through the metal detector with the watch on. He said real stainless steel Rolex watches go through without setting off the machine. It went through, no alarm. A few years later, in 2009, I bought the 116710 GMT ceramic from Mary at WatchInternational, the 'Z' serial number, and tried it at the TSA inspection at O'Hare Airport, LAX and Honolulu International. It went through every time, no alarm. OK, so it's old news. The GMT-c is my travel watch, just in case it gets 'lost' somehow. A little over two weeks ago it went through TSA at O'Hare as usual, the guy even looked at it and waved me through. But last Saturday on the way home there was a difference. Honolulu International was on a heightened security alert, and everyone had to go through the full body scan machine. I had never had to do one of those, but I took the chance with the watch. It, and I, went through with no problem, no alarms at all. I haven't done any modding to the watch, except regulate the ETA2836-2 (it gained 17 seconds in two weeks, didn't need to wind it, and didn't wear it sleeping or at the beach), seal the gaskets and added the Glide-Lock clasp. Not bad, I think, for a headache free watch.

There are better quality cases. The one I have from Silix is very good. But for the money the Tiger case is very nice. Rafflestime carries them as well.

You do. If I can do it anyone can. I have old eyes that need a lot of help seeing small parts, big fingers and hands that were never used for 'fine' work. If you are a physician, then it'd be easier AND you gor a lot of the tools that are better quality than what we use. There are tutorials on most all repairs on this site, step-by-step that are great. That's the knowledge needed. All I needed then was the guts to try it. I figured the worst that could happen was that I ruined a movement and would have to pay someone to fix it. Instead it worked, much to my surprise and delight, and I've gone on to learn other repairs. I really encourage people to try it, because I really mean that if I can, with no talent, anyone can!

I'd bet it's the keyless, as Sneed said. The tutorial he linked is a good one. Initially it took me a few times to 'get it', but then it is really easy to do. Just take your time. Doing the reset makes certain all keyless works is working right.

Keep in mind that the ETA conversion to GMT, ETA 2836-2/2846, is a modification, and never was a factory design. An extra hand is being squezed in there, and extra gears. Sometimes it needs a little help to get it working right.

This was made using a Tiger case, case-back and bezel.

Looks like the 6542 insert needs a price adjustment.

It's really too easy for anyone to do themselves, and there is a legal issue I don't wish to deal with. They can be made to any color you like, all on your printer.

Yes. I use a water based acrylic 'Glow-Paint' similar to what RolexAddict uses. His are extraordinary, I can't match that. I can do a chapter ring dial 'good enough', staying inside the lines! The round markers are easy, flatten a toothpick tip to just under the marker size, then touch the lume, and 'touch' the marker. One stop drop! For the coronet and straight markers I have tried many things, and now have settled on using a nib. It gives me most control, and my old, tired eyes and shaky hands need all the help I can get! The nice thing about this lume is that you can tint it easily, it glows about as a 50+ year old lume would, it has the 'grainy' texture of the old lume, and if you mess up you just wipe it off with a wet tissue or Q-tip and get a do-over!

And likely a lot more serious coin that the Daytona as well.

None of the Rolex ads on Stefano Mazzariol's site show the Jubilee, but some of the watches pictured have them. They would certainly be a folded Jubilee, as pictured. As I recall, and could be wrong, there were no Jubilee end link numbers at that point in time, but if there was a Jubilee it should have been a 6251 likely with 74 endlinks. According to the chart in the pinned thread 'Vintage Rolex Bracelet and Endlink Guide' there is no Jubilee listed for the 6542. I have Jubilees on mine, one folded and one not, neither have endlink numbers. I'd think there could be no argument that a bracelet would need to be replaced during the 60+ year life span.

What, no pepperoni?

That can't be a Marine watch. The numbers go past 10...

Sheet brass and Water slide decal. You can make the picture anything you like, the finish any way you like. For under $25usd you can make over 100 of them. One of `em is bound to be good. My first was using the pic from Ingod's dial on Ebay. Since then I've made a bunch, experimented a lot and learned a few things. I will provide any advice asked. It works best with gilt chapter ring dials, IMO, though I've done both.

Sorry, Nanuq. I have not ever seen Ingod or NDT dials in person. I make my own. This one is going to Honolulu Saturday. It's destined to be for the Graduate the following Saturday. $120,000+ just to get a watch...