JoeyB

Can you set the hands to the correct time, and then they won't move? If the hands were too loose on the pinion they might move when being set, but still noticeably 'slip' some. My guess is that your movement needs service, or more.

The first one looks like I've seen it before...

Well done! I'm certain that I have seen a pic of the 1675 Pan Am white dial somewhere, but can't find it. I'm sure it would have the 'OCC' dial, as the early 1675s did. http://stefanomazzariol.blogspot.com/search/label/Rolex%20GMT%201675%20%22OCC%22. The small GMT hand was used to the late 1960s, the all black insert was introduced in the early 1970s, so they both could easily have been done in a factory service around then, 'updating', as no one would have known how they'd value 40+ years later. I used the DG3804B in my 1675, and I think it's a tad easier to work with that the ETA movements. The obvious advantage is the initial cost, but when it is time to service the movement the ETA will cost anywhere from $100 to $250, and the DG, well, you de-case it, strip it down, carefully place it on the bench, then, using a 40oz hammer, whack the SOB brushing the pieces into the trash. Put in a nice, new clean DG3804B from Frei or other supplier for about $25 and you're done. It seems there have been quite a few bad ETA2846 movements from PT. Those of mine not DG are ETA 2846, all serviced. I just had two serviced by MD2020, very reasonable pricing and close to me in suburban Chicago. PM him, mention me, and see what he can do. When buying from Dave at Rafflestime make certain to mention RWG. He can sharpen the pricing a bit.

On my 1675 I used Clark's bezel assembly and crystal, but the bezel would not turn with the flat friction washer either. It does turn nicely without the washer, but I had to adjust the bracelet end links as the points on the very tip were sitting just high enough to contact the underside of the bezel. Squeezed 'em down a bit and it works. Removing the lume is easy to do. I soak the hands in acetone for a few minutes to soften the lume up and then use a toothpick in the pinion hole to hold it in position, and another toothpick to to remove the lume by lightly scraping. Using the toothpick to lume the hand really is easy to do, I start at the pinion end of the hand and from underneath with a drop of lume on the toothpick, and just move it out to the end of the hand.

Nope. Why? It's very easy to do.

Or, At the same Hobby Lobby buy some 'Glow Paint', about $5, and there or at a at a dollar store buy one of those kid's paint sets that are dried paint in little wells that you add water to. Remove the old lume from the hands, use a drop or two of the Glow Paint, mix in a tiny piece of brown, add yellow as needed, etc. Then, mount the hands on toothpicks via the pinion hole and stand them up in a piece of Rodico. Use a toothpick, pick up some Glow Paint and run it on the underside of each hand. Done deal. It is water based, easy to have 'do-overs', and dries with that 'Tritium' look.

Mine is the 1655 case with Clark's bezel, insert and crystal, Raffletimes' hands on a DG3804B, and it is a gen 5.3 crown.

The GMT eliminated the lug holes in late 2003. I'd think the Sub was the same.

I like gilt chapter ring dials too.

Yep. I used a small file on one and emery cloth double sided taped to a popsicle stick on this one. Eyeballed the angle, went slow and it worked well. http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/140709-6mm-brevet-crown/?hl=%2B6mm+%2Bbrevet#entry1046879

Well done! All the knowledge posted here is incredible, and one step can lead to another. If you come across an old movement you might want to 'play' with it and do more. You never know where it might lead you.

I have both of those, and two single lens loupes in the style of the one freddy shows in two different strengths. I use the single most often, with the 3.3x lens. I think the style depends on personal preference, and the strength on personal eyesight. I've looked at the Bausch and Lamb Magna Visor, and may try that some day, but a visor looks to be too heavy to wear for long.

Admin: And what in heaven's name brought you to RWG? JoeyB: My health. I came to RWG for the waters. Admin: The waters? What waters? We're in the desert. JoeyB: I was misinformed. I came to RWG for a few visits initially, spending more time on another site. But as my tastes grew to the vintage Rolex, I parted with those I had misjudged as friends, and I made this place home. The vintage Rolex knowledge here has no peer, has no equal even on the gen sites. I have learned so much here it is mind boggling. People like freddy333 do such stellar work, and gladly share their knowledge. It is being with the best of the best. Back in 1983 or so, a friend of mine named D­ick had traveled for his business to Taiwan. He brought back a Rolex President Day-Date, SS with diamond markers and silver dial. Up until that point I didn't think much about watches. If it worked I wore it, if not I bought another at the PX for under $20. But this watch was gorgeous. The flat crystal was something I had not seen before, I loved it! D­ick then explained to me what a Rolex was, and how much they cost. I figured that was a short lived love affair, but then D­ick told me he had bought two and I could have one - for $25! It was a fake, and a quartz movement that is still accurate to +1 second every 6 months today! Things have changed a lot since then. The 'fake' watch then to the 'replica' now, and my tastes to the GMT. About a year or so later I was on leave and in town, and D­ick asked me to meet him at his office downtown and we'd go out to lunch. His mother-in-law was from Poland, and D­ick had every Polish joke there was. So, as we got on th elevator he started telling me the latest Polish joke. A couple of floors later a man gets on the elevator, suit, tie, briefcase, etc. D­ick continues the Polish joke. Well, the man threw his briefcase down, just livid! He screamed that he was Polish, and that he didn't appreciate Polish jokes at all!! Then he pulled a razor out. After all I had been through. All the ways the end could have come. Who could have thought this way? But we were very fortunate that day. He couldn't find any place to plug it in...

According to this: http://www.gmtmasterhistory.com/gmt-master_ref_1675.html it is a 1675 from the late 1960s if the small arrow is original, early 1970s if the insert is original. The all black insert was introduced before the 'coke' red/black insert. The insert on this watch looks newer than the rest of the watch, and is easier to replace, so I'd bet on that being the variant. That looks like a 5.3mm crown, but I'd want to see it seated because it looks too small on most reps. Other than that, as others said with just that one pic, I'd guess genuine but absolutely look at the caseback and movement before I'd buy it. And I'd 'buy' the seller first.

Geez, I thought everyone older than me was dead...

I came to the forums looking for a Rolex GMT of better quality than the 'knockoffs' I had seen. I never liked the 'Pepsi' GMT with the Jubilee bracelet, it looked 'cheap' to me. The 'Retro' from Joshua was my first, a 16710 with the 'Coke' red/black insert and Oyster bracelet, and 'Swiss ETA2836-2. I loved, and still love it. That was a few months before the ceramic became available, and Josh didn't know when it would be offered. I knew the GMT ceramic was the 'ultimate' for me with the 'maxi dial', easier to see with my tired, old eyes, and the insert looked of quality, unlike the metal inserts. The bracelet being solid was, to me, finally a worthy bracelet for a Rolex, and the Glide-Lock clasp, finally, that wasn't stamped steel. But the GMT ceramic had a green 4th hand, and a bigger, 'fatter' case, and the bracelet had a polished center. Nice, but no cigar. Then RolexAddict talked to me about the 'Vintage' models, and how none were available with the right dial, besides the case differences. We went on the quest to find a way to get a proper vintage GMT. Found a few, made a few, worked hard to get it right. RA is well known for his 1675 builds, they are gorgeous. I came to this site about the time that freddy333 was building his first Rolex 6542. That was it for me. I built my first, and have improved builds since, and made the insert as best I could. I now have the 6542, 1675 'Cornino', 16710 and 116710. The 16710 is next on the list to be upgraded using the 16570 case. I will make it to the 'K' specs, with lugs holes, 'Coke' insert, non-etched crystal, solid Oyster bracelet with SEL, but with the Glide-Lock clasp. I love that clasp! I've bought others. I had a PAM and a DSSD, and sold them off. A Breitling World GMT that was gorgeous, but so complicated I couldn't read the damn thing even with my reading glasses! A Daytona that was very nice, but the same issue reading the small dials. I have a TAG Mercedes SLR only because I have a Mercedes, and a Gold President with an Onyx dial for dress, and a TT Date-Just with Onyx because I like the look. I have a 6204 Submariner that I like quite a bit, and an Omega SMP 2541.80 that I converted to quartz so as to have a grab it and run watch, that I also like a lot. But it's been months now that I've worn either the 6542 or the 1675 for my daily wearer. The 'Pepsi' and Jubilee combination are my favorites. It's come full around.

OK, here's my 1675!

I think you made a wise choice.

They vary. The sport models are 1.3mm.

It is a 'Cornio', pointy crown guard (gen upwards of $8K usd), gilt chapter ring Exclamation point dial (That makes it $12K usd or more). How much is it selling for? That should tell you a lot.

It would help if we knew which GMT you want, and what you want from it. With a Pepsi bezel insert it would be a 16710 (into 2007) or older model. Then which crystal you prefer, the sapphire (beginning in 1988) or acrylic which was used from 1954 through 1988. (There is some overlap in those years listed.) As mentioned, the handstack changed with the 16750 in 1981. Confused yet? It gets worse! Kinda. We all, regardless what we say, want someone, if not everyone, to believe the watch is genuine for whatever reason. The only way to get to that level is to modify the watch. As you can tell from the site, there is a lot of that going on. The reason, as someone said, is that there is no replica that is accurate out of the box. Some get close. Close enough if you are not taking it to a Rolex dealer, Jeweler or one of our members here. And in all honesty, without opening the case, and assuming the wearer is not a kid overdressed with a $6K watch, few of the reps from our trusted dealers would be called fake by anyone but one of our members who know more about Rolex watches than most Rolex Authorized Dealers. Now, that said, you said $115. Is that what you want to spend? Yes, you do get what you pay for. This recommended dealer, Jos Nana also called Joshua is the principle at Perfect Clones. He is well known, been around for years and offers excellent service including after the purchase. He is not the cheapest for the same watch, but one of the safest. One of the dealers that is good to start with until you learn more about this hobby, and what direction you'll eventually go. My first GMT was the 'Retro', 16710 sapphire crystal, lug holes, etc. BK told me at the time that he didn't do the GMT with lug holes, and that the Retro was 'best out of the box' for that model. That was 6 or 7 years ago. I still have it and still wear it, but I will be modifying it with a new case very soon. No one has ever questioned it's authenticity, but I am middle aged, drive a very nice car and have a very nice home in a very nice suburb, etc., etc. With shipping it was around $300. http://www.1-pc8838....362-p-3425.html Here is the start of Joshua's GMT offerings: http://www.1-pc8838....-55_69_486.html You can drive yourself crazy with that page alone! I'd suggest doing as much research as you can stand, and then buying from any of the trusted dealers, just as mentioned before. Having a 'Swiss' movement is nice, but don't be afraid of the Asian 21J movements, they work well. You can do well for under $200, better for $300. The very best, modified and all perfected up can go past $3000 easily. It all depends on what you want.

The ETA/Asian movements use a different diameter date wheel than the DG. The date wheel overlay is all that I have use on the DG3804B. I have no blank overlays, but this thread might help. Read thge whole thread, the end has some good pics. I think JMB has DWO too. http://www.rwg.cc/to...el#entry1150809

Sounds like a great deal to me. I'd buy it.

Does the ST case have any numbers in between the lugs, or is it sterile?

I use an acrylic water-based 'glo-paint' from an artists store, about $5. I then use a 99¢ kid's paint set, those dried ones in the tray you add water to, and take some of the color to tint the glo-paint. Like you said, if you goof up, a wet tissue wipes it right off and you get a do-over!