JoeyB

I've tried to lume using a template, didn't work for me. I tried taping off the coronet, toughest for me, using that blue painter's tape. But that didn't work either. The tape pulls the new lume up with it. So, I do it free hand, and practice, practice, practice. First i remove all the old lume. On gilt dials I use a toothpick and sandpaper to a 'chiseled' point and gently try to 'pop' the lume off. Luming, the round markers are easiest. I take a round toothpick and flatten the point to just about the size of the marker inside the gilt. I touch the flattened point in the lume and just touch the marker as centered as I can. Sometimes I need to do it twice to get enough in there, but after a little practice one dip and one dap and it's done nicely. The straight markers are more difficult, and the coronet is most difficult. I have tried many things, including an oiler, needles, toothpicks, etc, all not very good. Then I got from an artist supply store a nib pen and point. The pen shape gives me more control, maybe because it feels more comfortable. I dip the pen point a little heavier than for the round markers, and touch at the top of the marker, and draw a straight line. On the coronet I outline the triangle the same way, then fill in the center. Many here do it much better than I do, but I can mix the color I want, and not have to mail and wait. From my earliest attempts to the latest: ]

Save some for me! I love the French!

If I put a Chevy engine in it would it be a rep or a Franken?

For anyone who wants one, I can make that same insert for $500 (you save $2,000), less if you're a VIP member...

Either they have made a rep, or I found a little gold... I literally found this one is a watchmaker's junk drawer. It doesn't look very good to me, but I wouldn't know.

Mine are not misspelled either.

I know Star Time is not engraved between the lugs. I've not dealt with TC or Sean. Are theirs engraved?

Yep, it does. Now all I need do is find a 16570 case. Thanks.

About the closest to that angle from BK's thread, and it does look thicker to me:

I believe the 16610 and 16710 are the same thickness. What I want is a case that takes the gen bezel/crystal setup, as BK showed with the Super Lumed 16570 Explorer. I guess I'll go with that one.

Anyone?

That's the way I learned it. I swear I heard a tiny sonic boom on my first encounter! I use Scotch tape to hold the spring and position it after the plate is installed. You can see what you're doing through the tape. I don't know what the difference is between the DG2813 GMT and the DG3804B GMT. I've a only a few DG movements that came in the watches I've bought, and they were OK. But the DG3804B that I've gotten NEW from suppliers have been truly impressive. The best to me is the service. In 3-5 years when it needs to be serviced, you simply de-case the movement, place it on the workbench, and using a 24oz or larger hammer smash the snot out of it and buy a new one for $25. And they actually look more like the old Rolex movements than the ETAs do.

freddy333 is the 6542 Master, I learned from him. In fact I came here looking for knowledge about vintage Rolex GMT while a member elsewhere. RolexAddict got my attention in Vintage GMTs on that other site, and I came here and found freddy333's 'Phase 1' in progress. First look and I was hooked, and built my first shortly after, even buying his first acrylic insert from him. . He was the point, the 'pathfinder'. I was fortunate to have his work and knowledge to build on. People like freddy333 are what make RWG the "great knowledge base for rollies". We all benefit from his, and all those who share their knowledge, example.

The GMT hand should track with the hour hand, so yep it has an issue. There is a small 3 gear stack driven by the pinion to the date advance mechanism. It might be slipping there. A better GMT hand can be anywhere from $25 to off the charts. My opinion is to get one from Rafflestime. I use 1500 sandpaper and mod it slightly. Measure your GMT pinion, tell him the movement and pinion size you need. And Mention RWG, it does help.

OK. I can have the holes drilled, so no problem. The 16570 Explorer case was reviewed to be used as a case with gen style bezel/crystal for a 16710 build. The 16610 would certainly work as a 16710, right? If this 'T' case has the gen style bezel/crystal then why would the 16570 be such a big deal and the 'finally a 16710 case' that BK wrote up? http://www.rwg.cc/topic/144657-making-a-gen-style-16710-case-out-of-a-16570-case-and-tw-bezel-assembly/page__pid__1089607#entry1089607 A 16610 case would make one less number to erase and re-engrave. I am confused!

Yes. It works the same as the ETA/Asian 2836-2 , just slow beat. I do not believe they are 'Swiss", but really 'Asian', and be aware that it will likely need service regardless. The lug holes are too high, the case is too 'wokky', the GMT hand is garbage, so is the crystal. The insert is good, but doesn't lume.

I did not know that. I'm not familiar with the 'T'. Is it the gen style crystal/retainer? Who carries that case?

What rep Submariners does the bezel fit?

That's the one I want too.

The no-holes case began in 2003, and the Superluminova 'Swiss Made' dial was used from 2000 - 2007. Solid end links started in 2000. According to: http://www.gmtmasterhistory.com/gmt-master_ref_16710.html

Shiny gold-plated, or the more dull gilt? To get the dull gilt look I use 1500 grit sandpaper and lightly sand the chrome plating off off the silver hands down to the brass used. Go slow and light and easy, and go in one direction one swipe at a time so you don't catch the end of the hand and bend it. The finish is smooth, the brass will dull a bit as it ages. It goes fast, the plating is very thin.

That is true, it is not as sharp as the autocad.

Nanuq, have you any pics of a sexy lady draped over the fender of a Yugo? Did the Yugo have a fender?

"...especially the Brits" Odd. I don't recall American Auto manufacturers using any Brit ideas. For starters, we put the steering wheel on the correct side. Lucas "electrical systems" that were a step down from a cigarette company lab rat on a hamster wheel certainly weren't "pinched". Brit Leyland cars of the `60s and `70s were epitomized by the Triumph Stag, a car whose engine never learned to be internal combustion. And while Brit sports cars were fun little toys, I owned a TR4a and a Spitfire, it took an American engine placed in an AC Bristol to make the Brit car go. And it went ballistic. Even the iconic and admittedly gorgeous sexy Jaguar was finally made road worthy by American ownership. You can actually drive one almost every day! We will see if it goes 'Tata!'. As I wrote elsewhere, in the U.S after WW2 Italian cars introduced us to the world's first disposable cars, Japanese cars rusted through by your 4th car payment, German Cars used as taxi cabs in Europe sold here for more than Cadillacs. I didn't mention the Peugeot or the Renault. I'm trying to be nice... OK, not so nice. And then there was the Yugo. This must be what your friend considers a 'classic European Automobile'. The Yugo could singlehandedly take Europe's auto making reputation down 3 notches, minimum. It was rivaled only by the Volga and Lada. When they stopped running and people tried to plant flowers in them, the flowers died. Why do Yugos have a rear window defroster? So you can keep your hands warm while you're pushing it. What do you call a Yugo at the top of a hill? A miracle. What do you call the Yugo owner's manual? The bus timetable. How can you double the worth of a Yugo? By filling its gasoline tank. What makes a Yugo go faster? A tow truck. What is the difference between a Yugo and a golf ball? You can drive a golf ball 300 yards. Yes, it is quite understandable that your friend would lack respect for American Cars. He only gets to see them from behind...

1958 through 1960, that is my all time favorite car.